Complete guide to battery relocation 3G Garage #A-101
10-17-2007, 02:36 AM
#1
Complete guide to battery relocation 3G Garage #A-101
Spent a good part of the day relocating the battery to the rear of the car, in order to reduce some of the weight in front of the front axle.
You can do this project by putting together your own parts, or buying a kit. The kits usually go from $75 and can go up to $175 for the fancy aluminum boxed kits.
Let's start with the wiring. You need to run a positive wire from the front of the car to the back. We used a 1-gauge wire here. Ran it through the firewall, along the driver sides sills to the rear.
I decided to mount the battery on the drivers side rear, in order to retain most of the factory features (spare/dvd drive). The battery I got weighed in just under 40lbs, not much different from the factory battery. This may not seem a lot, but because the stock location of the battery is quiet far in front of the front axle, it acts as a fulcrum multiplying the actual weight.
Removed the trim to find the drill hole points for the mounts.
Place the securing bracket to determine the drill points and mark them.
On the bottom of the car, you need to remove your rear muffler, and the heat dissipation shield (four 10mm bolts). Make sure you don't drill in the "support" beam that runs on the bottom of the car.
The battery will go into the provided enclosure. Drill holes that will match the offset of the securing bracket.
Install the mounting rods with a washer, and make sure it fits with the battery box in place.
Heat shrink all your connection points. Sand down the paint on the chassis to ensure a proper ground, and connect ground.
Find a venting port, and run a fume exhaust tube to it for the battery to vent.
Put battery back, tighten securing bracket to the posts, and you have yourself a bit less weight up front.
Install took around 4 hours, but you can knock it out in 2 hours if you have a few red bulls before starting.
You can do this project by putting together your own parts, or buying a kit. The kits usually go from $75 and can go up to $175 for the fancy aluminum boxed kits.
Let's start with the wiring. You need to run a positive wire from the front of the car to the back. We used a 1-gauge wire here. Ran it through the firewall, along the driver sides sills to the rear.
I decided to mount the battery on the drivers side rear, in order to retain most of the factory features (spare/dvd drive). The battery I got weighed in just under 40lbs, not much different from the factory battery. This may not seem a lot, but because the stock location of the battery is quiet far in front of the front axle, it acts as a fulcrum multiplying the actual weight.
Removed the trim to find the drill hole points for the mounts.
Place the securing bracket to determine the drill points and mark them.
On the bottom of the car, you need to remove your rear muffler, and the heat dissipation shield (four 10mm bolts). Make sure you don't drill in the "support" beam that runs on the bottom of the car.
The battery will go into the provided enclosure. Drill holes that will match the offset of the securing bracket.
Install the mounting rods with a washer, and make sure it fits with the battery box in place.
Heat shrink all your connection points. Sand down the paint on the chassis to ensure a proper ground, and connect ground.
Find a venting port, and run a fume exhaust tube to it for the battery to vent.
Put battery back, tighten securing bracket to the posts, and you have yourself a bit less weight up front.
Install took around 4 hours, but you can knock it out in 2 hours if you have a few red bulls before starting.
10-17-2007, 10:44 AM
#4
Ryan Christopher
Originally Posted by Schulminator
I hope you DON'T get into an accident, where that side of the car gets a hard imapct. Also when the battery vents, it's going inside the cabin. I think a gel-cell (Optima) battery would be a "safer" choice. Just my 
...
...But great write up and picture details.
10-17-2007, 10:48 AM
#5
Originally Posted by Schulminator
I hope you DON'T get into an accident, where that side of the car gets a hard imapct. Also when the battery vents, it's going inside the cabin. I think a gel-cell (Optima) battery would be a "safer" choice. Just my ...
...
10-17-2007, 11:32 AM
#7
tehLEGOman
Join Date: Dec 2004
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Nice writeup!
..your front to rear ratio should be a little better now. Plus you've now got the room in the engine bay for that turbo! haha
..your front to rear ratio should be a little better now. Plus you've now got the room in the engine bay for that turbo! haha
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10-17-2007, 04:24 PM
#8
Originally Posted by Black_05_TL_6SP
I would say go with the light weight Braile battery!! A gel cell or a non liquid filled battery.
But great write up and picture details.
But great write up and picture details.
10-17-2007, 04:29 PM
#9
Originally Posted by ACCURATEin
Nice writeup!
..your front to rear ratio should be a little better now. Plus you've now got the room in the engine bay for that turbo! haha
..your front to rear ratio should be a little better now. Plus you've now got the room in the engine bay for that turbo! haha
Aznbo..great write up man
Im actually surprised, especcially lookin at the pics, that it took you four hours, thought it would take you more.
10-17-2007, 05:03 PM
#10
94 DC4 RS LSV/Turbo
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turbo shmurbo... it takes aznbo forever to do everthing, damn perfectionist... how long does it take aznbo to rotate his tires... 5mins a lug (OCD I tell yah) much love 
10-17-2007, 10:24 PM
#12
The car actually feels quiet different now. The nose goes into direction much easier, without hesitation. Although not a huge difference, it's there.
As far as the battery itself, I hope I don't get hit on the right rear. I just bought this battery new so I'll just replace it when time comes.
As far as the battery itself, I hope I don't get hit on the right rear. I just bought this battery new so I'll just replace it when time comes.
10-18-2007, 11:18 AM
#13
Banned
Originally Posted by aznbo187
The car actually feels quiet different now. The nose goes into direction much easier, without hesitation. Although not a huge difference, it's there.
As far as the battery itself, I hope I don't get hit on the right rear. I just bought this battery new so I'll just replace it when time comes.
As far as the battery itself, I hope I don't get hit on the right rear. I just bought this battery new so I'll just replace it when time comes.
08-01-2010, 09:42 AM
#15
2006 TL-S.C. 6mt
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Jacksonville, FL
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So it looks like I just worry about the first point in the fuse box to run the red wire to, and not to worry about messing with the second wire that runs to the starter?
08-03-2010, 05:54 PM
#19
Three Wheelin'
I already have a 2AWG running to my trunk for the stereo install. would it be wise to put the battery in the trunk even thoe i have the one 12" sub in a sealed enclosure with two small lightweight alpine pdx amps
10-06-2010, 10:23 AM
#22
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If you are not into racing your car the relocation of the battery from front to back is not a noticable one. also you need to vent that battery. check with your insurance company but they might refuse you if it was not done properly. the battery can cause a fire harzard within the passenger compartment.
08-24-2011, 04:28 PM
#25
Intermediate
Yo cool write up..what would be the most recomended light weight battery?..Regular batterys are super heavy saveing some weight would be nice.But do they would have any downsides compared to an average bat?
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