CB7Nub

Hey guys. I've done research over the forum and I can't really find exact answers to what I am looking for. I have heard some bad reviews even from XLR8 on Spec clutches so I am staying away. Clutchmasters seems like the only other aftermarket performance option. I am looking to get a Clutchmasters clutch and flywheel and am having trouble looking for advice on products, not sure what to get for my application. 2007 Acura TL Type-S (dual mass flywheel).

Things I am looking for in clutch / flywheel setup in order:
1) Reliability
2) Performance
3) Longevity
4) Driveability
5) Noise

(Pretty sure those are the 5 main topics above.)

Background Information & Use:

I recently burned out my clutch from doing a 4K RPM clutch drop and I am looking to upgrade my clutch and flywheel system.
Clutch Masters seems like they have the best selection of parts for my application and better reliability than the Spec clutches offered. Basically this car is my daily driver year round in Toronto, Canada (winter and summer, exposed to high extremes of cold and heat). The car is parked outside year round. I do spirited driving on a daily basis in mostly city driving but I like to do spirited driving on the highway, country roads and more. I would like to have a clutch that withstands clutch drops for launches but also is usable in my situation as a year round daily driver. I will do occasional track days (circuit and drag) in the summer so I would like to be ready for that. So far the engine is stock but eventually I will be putting standard bolt-ons like intake, exhaust, etc. In reality I would probably never make more than 300WHP/TQ but I would like it to handle that on a regular basis at high stress if you understand.

Overall Questions:

1) So from looking at the FX 250, FX 350 and FX 400 (All CM clutches). What would you recommend for my needs?
2) I was also looking to change my flywheel to your FW-040-AL flywheel and I heard that you have to reuse the original ring gear from the original OEM flywheel, is this true?
3) Can you buy the original ring gear from the OEM UA7 flywheel separately or do you have to buy a whole to new flywheel? (I'd rather not reuse a old part)
4) If I get one of the CM clutch kits and the FW-040-AL flywheel is there anything else I would need for installation? (I would be converting from a dual mass flywheel to a single mass flywheels)
5) Clutch shutter, is this just vibration or does it mean anything else? (Not really familiar with the term)
6) In daily driving conditions how will the FX 250, 350, and 400 drive respectively?
7) Instead of modifying my OEM clutch slave cylinder, I heard I can get a CL Type-S slave cylinder that will work and doesn't have the check valve, what can I use other than the CL-S that will fit? (I assume the CL-S slave cylinder will be very very hard to find)

I'm going to get it installed at a Honda dealership. (Just because it's local and extremely convenient, plus I am getting a good deal on labour since my family has been going there since 1996)

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Side note:
One of my local TL owner buddies told me that the reason the clutch didn't engage all the way because of the check valve in the clutch slave cylinder which slows the engagement of the clutch apparently. He told me that if I do a check valve delete (which it seems like I should do anyways now) the OEM clutch will work fine for me. What do you guys think? OEM clutch is about half the cost of a CM FX 250 clutch but I'd rather pay a little more now so I don't have to worry about it down the road you know?

That's about all the information I can think of, if anything else is needed. Let me know!

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

at 4k clutch drop! dummy!

CB7Nub

How else do you expect to launch the car?
Thank you for your beautiful helpful insight though.....

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

ive learned with my 6MT TL, anything above 2k RPM is a waste and harmful to the drive train.
even when drag racing.

1st gear is pretty short and it doesnt take long to get into vtec.
i'd rather wait the 2 or 3 seconds to get into vtec, than launching the car at 4k and tearing up the drive train.

plus, when you mash the gas at launch, even with sticky 255mm wide summer tires, you get wheel hop, wheel spin, further damaging your car.

thisaznboi88

iTrader: (7)

guess OP has never launched his car. I spin just driving regularly once in a while.

OEM clutch is going to get smashed pretty fast if your planning to do a lot of drag and harddriving DD. Pressure plate is weak. Look at CM or XLR8 clutch package

Excelerate

iTrader: (1)

I would recommend the Clutchmaster's kits. They're the only reliable aftermarket solution to date, unless we can get our clutch kit off the ground. We're still working on it. We can even get a CM flywheel now for the TL-S.

JJH

iTrader: (1)

Not true^ Spec stage 3+ clutch and flywheel is a reliable after market solution that maintains a close to stock feel that myself, gerzand, and a few other members are running just fine.

Excelerate

iTrader: (1)

Believe me when I tell you that SPEC is not reliable. We've sold their stuff in the past and we've had nothing but issues with their product and their customer service is even worse. SPEC just paints factory clutch kits and resells them. There may be some customers who have good experiences and maybe some clutches do last but it's not the general rule with SPEC, at least not in our experience. We pulled their brand from our website and refuse to sell their stuff because of the poor quality and terrible customer service.

JJH

iTrader: (1)

Different stages have the stock pressure plate painted. The stage 3 and above is not the stock pressure plate.