BrakeMotive aftrmkt rotors and pads installed today
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
BrakeMotive aftrmkt rotors and pads installed today
Here is what I got!
https://acurazine.com/forums/sponsored-sales-group-buys-10/brakemotive-drilled-slotted-brake-kits-lowest-prices-ever-809114/
So far, i am completely satisfied. (even though its only been a few miles)
I ordered my kit at about 2 p.m. on Monday and it all arrived on Thursday. The package itself weighed 63 pounds. I visually looked at everything and it was packaged well. No damage to the box or anything. Then today (Saturday) was install day...
I ordered the complete set, all four wheels rotors and pads. I started working on them at about 10 o clock. I haven't ever replaced my brakes before on my own, and im getting better, but i am NOT anywhere near a mechanics level of skill. I still know how to work things though. (I'm only 18!) But i started with the front. I lifted the car and placed it on jack stands. Removed both of the front wheels and then went for the brakes. I put a wedge behind the back wheels for safety of falling off the jack stands too.
So to begin with the brakes. The wheels are off. There are four main bolts that you have to remove in order to fully expose the rotor. I removed the two that house the caliper, (14 mm i think) the piston is removed after removing these two bolts, and set it on a tall skinny box inside the wheel well to prevent the brake line from having any tension. The bolts were pretty tight for me. I have had the car for about 4 months so this is the first brake job that has been done since i have owned it. I presoaked the bolts in WD-40 yesterday to help them break free a little easier today.
After removing those two bolts the caliper comes off completely and exposes what i believe is called the housing. The part that holds the pads. There are two more bolts (17 mm) on more of the inside of the housing that i had to once again break free. They came off. The pads were easily removed with some wiggling. So now only the rotor is exposed.
The last step is to remove the rotor for replacement. There are two set screws that hide behind the hub of the wheel. They are phillips head screws and are completely unnecessary and ridiculous. They are there to hold the rotor on the hub when it is rolling down the assembly line. They are not required to put back in the rotor. This was the major time consuming part of my day. I tried removing them with an impact screwdriver and it removed one screw out of the total four on the front. The other began to strip. So i made some calls and one of my buddies had an air compressor hooked up to an impact driver that you would use to tighten lug nuts or any other bolts. Or loosen. I had to make two trips to different auto parts stores (
in my fathers truck) and we eventually rigged up something that worked with the air compressed impact driver. The screws came off. Thank the lord. Then we installed the new rotor, but some "brake gunk" as we called it, on the back of the pads and put everything back together. The front was complete.
The back was nearly the same. The only couple tips that may be of help to some people is...
1- make sure to put some wedges in front of the front wheels and then jack the car up. Release the parking break!! Or the back drums on the rotors will not let go and you will not be able to get the rotors off. So parking brake off to remove the rear rotors.
2- The back screws were so tight and rusted in that we had to drill them out of the rotor. This wasn't a huge concern because we were replacing the rotor anyway so we drilled them out and then with some wiggle, the rotor finally popped out.
Overall first impressions of the brake motive (powerstop) pads and rotors. (slotted and drilled)
We completed the bed in procedure. 5 stops, moderate to aggressive, 45-5 mph w/o letting the rotors completely cool. Then 5 moderate stops from 25-0 letting the rotor cool. They braked really well. I was impressed. I know they will only get better in the next one-hundred miles too because i really only have driven 2 or 3 miles on them so far.
But what i thought was neat was that i could hear the sound of the slots and the holes in the rotors hitting the pads and making a sort of noise that is almost indescribable, but very cool.
So thats it. There are a few DIY's in the 3G garage for the TL that really helped me. W/o those, i wouldn't have even dared to do what i did today. So thanks A-Zine.
But one of the greatest things about all of this is that i spent about $145 on the rotors and pads from brake motive (a hell of a deal)
and about $50 on tools. ( i didn't have jack stands before today)
Go to an Acura dealer, have them replace all four rotors and all pads. You're looking at upwards of $500 depending on the stealership. So I saved. A lot.
But i got it all done and i am completely satisfied! I will try to post an update later after i get a thousand miles on them. But for now. I'm happy. And i highly recommend them.
https://acurazine.com/forums/sponsored-sales-group-buys-10/brakemotive-drilled-slotted-brake-kits-lowest-prices-ever-809114/
So far, i am completely satisfied. (even though its only been a few miles)
I ordered my kit at about 2 p.m. on Monday and it all arrived on Thursday. The package itself weighed 63 pounds. I visually looked at everything and it was packaged well. No damage to the box or anything. Then today (Saturday) was install day...
I ordered the complete set, all four wheels rotors and pads. I started working on them at about 10 o clock. I haven't ever replaced my brakes before on my own, and im getting better, but i am NOT anywhere near a mechanics level of skill. I still know how to work things though. (I'm only 18!) But i started with the front. I lifted the car and placed it on jack stands. Removed both of the front wheels and then went for the brakes. I put a wedge behind the back wheels for safety of falling off the jack stands too.
So to begin with the brakes. The wheels are off. There are four main bolts that you have to remove in order to fully expose the rotor. I removed the two that house the caliper, (14 mm i think) the piston is removed after removing these two bolts, and set it on a tall skinny box inside the wheel well to prevent the brake line from having any tension. The bolts were pretty tight for me. I have had the car for about 4 months so this is the first brake job that has been done since i have owned it. I presoaked the bolts in WD-40 yesterday to help them break free a little easier today.
After removing those two bolts the caliper comes off completely and exposes what i believe is called the housing. The part that holds the pads. There are two more bolts (17 mm) on more of the inside of the housing that i had to once again break free. They came off. The pads were easily removed with some wiggling. So now only the rotor is exposed.
The last step is to remove the rotor for replacement. There are two set screws that hide behind the hub of the wheel. They are phillips head screws and are completely unnecessary and ridiculous. They are there to hold the rotor on the hub when it is rolling down the assembly line. They are not required to put back in the rotor. This was the major time consuming part of my day. I tried removing them with an impact screwdriver and it removed one screw out of the total four on the front. The other began to strip. So i made some calls and one of my buddies had an air compressor hooked up to an impact driver that you would use to tighten lug nuts or any other bolts. Or loosen. I had to make two trips to different auto parts stores (
in my fathers truck) and we eventually rigged up something that worked with the air compressed impact driver. The screws came off. Thank the lord. Then we installed the new rotor, but some "brake gunk" as we called it, on the back of the pads and put everything back together. The front was complete.
The back was nearly the same. The only couple tips that may be of help to some people is...
1- make sure to put some wedges in front of the front wheels and then jack the car up. Release the parking break!! Or the back drums on the rotors will not let go and you will not be able to get the rotors off. So parking brake off to remove the rear rotors.
2- The back screws were so tight and rusted in that we had to drill them out of the rotor. This wasn't a huge concern because we were replacing the rotor anyway so we drilled them out and then with some wiggle, the rotor finally popped out.
Overall first impressions of the brake motive (powerstop) pads and rotors. (slotted and drilled)
We completed the bed in procedure. 5 stops, moderate to aggressive, 45-5 mph w/o letting the rotors completely cool. Then 5 moderate stops from 25-0 letting the rotor cool. They braked really well. I was impressed. I know they will only get better in the next one-hundred miles too because i really only have driven 2 or 3 miles on them so far.
But what i thought was neat was that i could hear the sound of the slots and the holes in the rotors hitting the pads and making a sort of noise that is almost indescribable, but very cool.
So thats it. There are a few DIY's in the 3G garage for the TL that really helped me. W/o those, i wouldn't have even dared to do what i did today. So thanks A-Zine.
But one of the greatest things about all of this is that i spent about $145 on the rotors and pads from brake motive (a hell of a deal)
and about $50 on tools. ( i didn't have jack stands before today)
Go to an Acura dealer, have them replace all four rotors and all pads. You're looking at upwards of $500 depending on the stealership. So I saved. A lot.
But i got it all done and i am completely satisfied! I will try to post an update later after i get a thousand miles on them. But for now. I'm happy. And i highly recommend them.
#3
'That's what she said!'
iTrader: (8)
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=809114
#4
Racer
Thread Starter
I called their phone number here https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=809114 and they were very helpful. They do have a warranty of a year too which is decent.
Just remember to buy all of this from xlr8 (im not trying to "beat up" on you guys, you are an awesome vendor for our beloved acuras...) or any other vendor may get you slightly better quality, better brand, and a made in the usa stamp on the rotors, but it will run you hundreds more. Im still baffled on how brakemotive sells so cheap.
Ill try to post a few updates on quality sometime later. I might have already said that in my OP. oh well.
#6
Racer
Thread Starter
Im located about an hour north of atlanta in forsyth county. I would love to go if im not too busy. And no problem on the review. I thought it was the least i could do to give back to this helpful community.
Trending Topics
#9
Racer
Thread Starter
Well ive had them for about 2 weeks now and I love them. Stopping power is improved. Not a lot, but it has improved.
I haven't experienced any brake fade, but I don't believe that I have really had the chance to test the fade properly.
I called Acura and the stock OEM front rotors are $125 a piece!! $100 a piece for the rears. These were rotors and pads for $145. Hmmm.
But I have my old rotors if anybody wants them for real cheap. I just need to get rid of them. I'm pretty sure you can still have them resurfaced. Anyway...
I haven't experienced any brake fade, but I don't believe that I have really had the chance to test the fade properly.
I called Acura and the stock OEM front rotors are $125 a piece!! $100 a piece for the rears. These were rotors and pads for $145. Hmmm.
But I have my old rotors if anybody wants them for real cheap. I just need to get rid of them. I'm pretty sure you can still have them resurfaced. Anyway...
#11
06 Anthracite TL
I have a set of the rotors and pads on my 06 TL (non Brembo) for the past 15,000 miles- I've been extremely pleased with them. I had my spring/summer tires put on today and the brakes were checked- no excessive wear noted. I hope I can get a similar set when these wear out. I got the zinc plated slotted and drilled rotors and ceramic pads.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
asahrts
Member Cars for Sale
0
09-04-2015 05:55 PM