I'm getting ready to install the RV6 PCD & Jpipe in my 04 TL 6MT and just had some questions before hand. First is there any specific maintenance I should look into before install? or replacement parts? Anything trans related? I'm replacing my axles before hand since my driver side is looking pretty bad. I just need to know if I should replace/upgrade anything on the trans. Also think I need a new serpentine belt, but I recently installed a new timing belt and clutch with the dual mass flywheel.

I'll look into any cracked motor mounts before hand as well. Any info or tips helps a lot. Looking up the install on the internet and is pretty cut and dry but just don't want to destroy anything major with the extra power!

regarding the install... any tips or things to keep in mind? what would be the torque specs on the PCDs and Jpipe? Also really need to pass Texas state inspection so I need this to really go perfectly!! So would it be a safe bet to get new 02 sensors? My CEL is currently on and the codes were reading issues with the original cats. Thanks in advance!

 

As far as the axles go I went to Advanced auto because they sell brand new shafts not reman ones-no issues. Is the car an Auto? If it is just make sure you keep up on the trans fluid 3x3 changes. If it's a manual then youre good to go-but maybe switch to gm syncromesh friction modified fluid-a lot better. These mods wont make a huge power difference so it won't hurt any stock parts. A few tips for install would be to keep all the bolts loose until it is all hooked up, my j-pipe wouldn't line up correctly when my PCD's were already bolted down. The hardest part for me was taking off the old rusty j-pipe-Have fun but it will be worth it. Make sure you unplug your battery before first start up so it can relearn

 

Awesome! Thanks for the heads up. My TL is a manual trans (thank goodness!) and I’ve been using the GM synchromesh too! Might do a drain and feel soon though. These tips will help for sure! Any torque specs? Or is all that good stuff in the manual?

 

As far as o2 sensors go unless you had a code saying they were bad I wouldn't touch them-the PCDs come with defoulers so you wont have a cel. Not so sure about torque specs, the only sensitive one would be the pcd's, I just tightened them by hand so you'll have to look that part up.

 

Yeah no codes related to an O2 sensor. I have a P0420 cat bank 1 and a P0715 turbine sensor, but I took it to my local shop and they said I needed new O2s so that got me wondering.

I’ll look into torque specs. What brand for your axle at advance auto did you purchase? If you remember. Was thinking of going OEM but $250 is a whole lot more that the advance auto sites axles

 

Their brand is CARQUEST. OEM obviously is best but these are brand new and have a good warranty, Justa make sure theyre for a manual I had to double check

 

Getting the old J-Pipe off from the stock cat was a challenge, I ended up having to torch the nuts off, grinding the bolt down and re drilling the hole out. Normally easy but under a car in the 90 degree heat kinda sucked. Getting the rear pre-cat out from the back engine was a major pain in the ass. I believe you will have to remove the shielding around the half shaft to make it easier.

 

Damn that sounds like a pain! Good to know that. Thanks for the info. Penetrating oil didn’t do anything for you? I really hope this isn’t the case for me. Being in Texas it’s over 100 degrees most days haha I’m honestly stalling because the heat is just too much rn. I also hear that rear is gonna be a pain too!

 

Yea it did no good, Probably from all the salty snowy roads here in OH. And yeah honestly start with the rear so then it is smooth sailing after lol. Getting the heat shielding off I used a pair of vice grips while tugging and cursing so much it would make a sailer blush lol! But in the end it was worth it as the car has more pep to it. As far as the trans you will be fine these upgrades won't do enough to hurt it. If you run into any issues with the install feel free to shoot me a PM anytime.

 

^Where in Ohio are you from Agent?

 

buy a good locking angled socket wrench. if you do a cheap one it won't lock well, spend the money haha. it allows you to angle the head of the wrench for the rear and front ones. the rear one sucks, no way around it. i have done mine 3x on/off. buy a $2 foam gardening mat because you will be on your knees on top of the manifold for a long time. it will destroy your knees if no mat. take the heat shield off for the rear one and then snake them all out.

does your inspection do a visual? if so, it might not pass. in california i have to switch my hfpcs back to stock every two years for my registration inspection otherwise i fail.


good luck!

 

Thanks for the info! Will look into a good quality locking angles wrench. No visual inspections in Texas I believe. But reading the DPS looks like they do do visual. I guess might have to swap out the cats with regular now lol

 

This is what the reject reasons for emissions testing on the DPS site.

1. Inspection Procedure. Examine visually.
2. Inspect for and reject if:
a. The exhaust emission system has been removed.
b. The exhaust emission system has been disconnected.
c. The plumbing or hoses are loose, broken, leaking, or improperly routed.
d. Air pump (air injection-type) belt is loose, removed, excessively cracked, frayed or has pieces missing.
e. The exhaust emission system has been altered in any manner to make it ineffective.
f. The catalytic converter has been removed, leaking, or disconnected on a 1984 or later model vehicle.

Based off the visual inspection and letter f. I wouldn’t pass?

 

you would not. you have two choices if you continue. a) switch back to stock for inspections. b) find a shop that will take a "fee" to overlook it haha. i'm not saying to do that but i know it happens haha. whatever works best for you!

 

Can anyone else confirm the nuts holding the j-pipe to the rear cat has a different size nut on it? I am pretty sure my front ones were 14mm and my rear ones for 13mm. Mine could have been a fluke but all are 14mm after my j-pipe install.

 

Decisions decisions might just play it safe and get a set of some cats. But trying to pay a fee could be the way to go haha. Anyone know if this set off eBay will be good just to pass a state inspection?

https://www.ebay.com/i/302427808201?...xoCPgAQAvD_BwE

 

Consider getting the car up to temperature (nice and soaked) and then break the nuts loose before everything cools down.. Also, avoid using 12 point sockets.