Apexi Neo
10-20-2009, 02:13 PM
#4
Banned
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2009
Age: 41
Posts: 203
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The way u wire it there is no way to control VTEC but u can control air and fuel and its perfect..... i had it on the dyno at 155mph all gears i did like 20 pulls 3rd and 4th gear and no problem.... the ecm wont b able to overide it ..... so far so good
10-20-2009, 06:59 PM
#7
Three Wheelin'
first off there has been a breakthrough its called the AEM F/IC, but no one seems to research or read anything, and it controls VTEC.
Secondly.. Apexi Neo controls AFR....what about IGNITION TIMING?????
and the MPG questions...everyone's looking to make power, but want better MPG.... IT IS NOT POSSIBLE on a fuel injected car, period! power is made based on how much air and FUEL <-----(seems to be everyone's worst enemy but want less of it to make more power) you can squeeze and the most higher compression possible inside the combustion chamber, and that can't possibly result to better MPG by squeezing more of those 2 inside your motor! (you can make more power by increasing compression ratio, but that'd require running a higher octane gas, which costs more)
I wish i knew a trick on how i could get less thirsty by drinking less water. (other liquids dont count)
Secondly.. Apexi Neo controls AFR....what about IGNITION TIMING?????
and the MPG questions...everyone's looking to make power, but want better MPG.... IT IS NOT POSSIBLE on a fuel injected car, period! power is made based on how much air and FUEL <-----(seems to be everyone's worst enemy but want less of it to make more power) you can squeeze and the most higher compression possible inside the combustion chamber, and that can't possibly result to better MPG by squeezing more of those 2 inside your motor! (you can make more power by increasing compression ratio, but that'd require running a higher octane gas, which costs more)
I wish i knew a trick on how i could get less thirsty by drinking less water. (other liquids dont count)
Trending Topics
10-21-2009, 01:38 AM
#12
Three Wheelin'
dude, thats just a piece of paper...what do you mean, been done????....how accurate is the dyno? is it calibrated right,... you apparently dont have a clue about your own car...so some shop dynoed ur car, printed out this paper for you, and you take that as it comes?
if the dyno showed 350 hp, you would've believed that too..
think about whats reasonable as a mod, on your car, before you start believing every hype a dyno produces
if the dyno showed 350 hp, you would've believed that too..
think about whats reasonable as a mod, on your car, before you start believing every hype a dyno produces
10-21-2009, 08:26 AM
#13
Banned
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2009
Age: 41
Posts: 203
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
dude, thats just a piece of paper...what do you mean, been done????....how accurate is the dyno? is it calibrated right,... you apparently dont have a clue about your own car...so some shop dynoed ur car, printed out this paper for you, and you take that as it comes?
if the dyno showed 350 hp, you would've believed that too..
think about whats reasonable as a mod, on your car, before you start believing every hype a dyno produces
if the dyno showed 350 hp, you would've believed that too..
think about whats reasonable as a mod, on your car, before you start believing every hype a dyno produces
10-21-2009, 12:06 PM
#14
Your point is? You dynoed your car with 1000whp civics. If he was such a great tuner than he wouldn't use a uncorrected dyno. Secondly, him dynoing a 1000whp civic means shit these days. I race for Kenny Tran's jotech. I've seen 1800whp skylines, 1300whp civics, 1000whp SCION TC. Uncle has a 7 second 1967 Camaro and has 2 super novas, a 1971 challenger, and others. Also your CLM racing on youtube only shows a 10 and 9 second civic, barely into the 9s. I don't care how much "smart" your tuner is, we have over 1000 members that knows most of about our cars, and hundreds that have tried this over and over and over. We are sensitive to something like this because we don't see any proof, evidence, and instead we get superficial bullshit! Sorry to disappoint.
10-21-2009, 12:57 PM
#15
Banned
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2009
Age: 41
Posts: 203
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Your point is? You dynoed your car with 1000whp civics. If he was such a great tuner than he wouldn't use a uncorrected dyno. Secondly, him dynoing a 1000whp civic means shit these days. I race for Kenny Tran's jotech. I've seen 1800whp skylines, 1300whp civics, 1000whp SCION TC. Uncle has a 7 second 1967 Camaro and has 2 super novas, a 1971 challenger, and others. Also your CLM racing on youtube only shows a 10 and 9 second civic, barely into the 9s. I don't care how much "smart" your tuner is, we have over 1000 members that knows most of about our cars, and hundreds that have tried this over and over and over. We are sensitive to something like this because we don't see any proof, evidence, and instead we get superficial bullshit! Sorry to disappoint.
10-21-2009, 02:54 PM
#17
Banned
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2009
Age: 41
Posts: 203
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
what u mean explain i installed an aem cold air intake changed the exhaust a lil bit and installed a apexi neo threw it on the dyno and let me tuner tune it
10-21-2009, 02:58 PM
#18
Ryan Christopher
I think the question refers more to the fact of how did you install the NEO. Things like wiring! When one first accomplishes an install in the forum, one normally follows it up with details and a DIY of how he did it.
10-21-2009, 03:03 PM
#19
Banned
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2009
Age: 41
Posts: 203
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
well i have a friend of mine that ran into the problem and he never got it to work but when they did mine he was reserching the wiring for like 3 days then he told me to bring the car in and he got it he still has the diagram if u want i can email it to u .....
10-21-2009, 03:16 PM
#20
Ryan Christopher
I think it best that you post it. Scan it in so everyone can use it.
10-21-2009, 03:32 PM
#21
Banned
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2009
Age: 41
Posts: 203
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
10-26-2009, 07:31 PM
#25
Three Wheelin'
10-26-2009, 07:54 PM
#26
Haha, I got a call last week for installing one of these on a Mazdaspeed3 
I think these things are great for helping tune in little bolt ons like intakes and exhausts. Yea for more optimal tuning you need something more involved. But for a little bump in fuel and expanded monitoring the AFC Neo is great.
I think these things are great for helping tune in little bolt ons like intakes and exhausts. Yea for more optimal tuning you need something more involved. But for a little bump in fuel and expanded monitoring the AFC Neo is great.
10-27-2009, 01:58 AM
#27
Three Wheelin'
\
The problem with this whole thing is, even if you had a TRUE TUNNING device, there just isn't enough to work with from what his modifications are.
Now, to the OP:
1- The CAI. That is not supplying the motor with any more air than it already sucks on stock form, so you could say that, with increased air, you could add some more fuel with the Apexi Neo and make some power. But this clearly isn't happening. You are not adding more air, so increase in fuel supply wouldn't do anything, but a worse MPG.
The biggest downfall of it all is the fact that you can't even adjust ignition timing with this device (you claimed this yourself). Even if you did, its already as far as it can go on 91 octane gas.
2- Exhaust. Your exhaust modifications involve replacing the 3rd cat with a straight-through (non-restrictive) pipe, and removal of the pre-muffler. Now, I'm sure many will vouch, but my own experience with this, after having had every possible exhaust setup on the 3G TL , those 2 exhaust tweaks make a bigger difference by removing their own weight than the exhaust flow increase they allow.
So, even if somehow in some supernatural way, you have managed to squeeze some more air bubbles inside your motor and added a few drops of fuel, you're still not taking full advantage of your induction & injection due to lack of true exhaust modifications. Again, the exhaust modifications you've done are more effective in weight reduction form than they are in HP release.
3- UR Crank Pulley. This will release/free up a few HP. But not to bring your WHP up to 287
One thing I wanna point out to you is:
As you know, your car's HP rating is 286 HP at the CRANK
Now from there on, that power gets transferred and is also used to spin the clutch and PP, the transmission, the axles, rotors, wheels and tires, which will result in power loss/reduction that's needed to move/spin all those parts (and they're heavy too) .
By the time the power reaches the outside of the tires/THE PAVEMENT, it has been reduced a great deal from 286 HP which was measured at the Crank.
So you mean to tell me, (and I can't stress this enough) that in your car there was only 26 HP loss/reduction through the entire drive-train? Because you claimed that your car put down 260 WHP on the dyno, stock. Meanwhile, every other 3G 6MT TL experiences around 40-50 HP loss. Which would mean that your WHP should be around 240-242 in stock form.
So to sum it all up, you managed to get 287 HP at the wheels (more than stock at the crank) by not even releasing HP, such as FULL FREE FLOWING EXHAUST, Light Weight Flywheel. So in other words, 90% of your added power came strictly through induction and injection, which in real world would mean that you managed to make about 330 crank HP.
That's an additional of about 45 HP, simply from a CAI and Apexi Neo, adding some fuel.
I wish you would take the time and really look at all this, and think about it, and not just say "look at the dyno sheet"
Speaking of the dyno graph:
It is not a strong form of proof, at least not to me personally. Much less when I know your modifications, I know the car and its motor along with the capabilities and potential. And so do many many other members here.
A tuner can tune a car, but he may not care how it reads. A tuner is more concerned in stimulating a certain load on the car before and after adjustments. Uncorrected numbers are also way off. Do some research and see for yourself what this really means.
Here's a few things:
A key element to producing comparable dyno charts on a global basis is the Correction Factor, SAE Standard J1349, which applies the following weather station data--atmospheric pressure 29.23, air temperature 77 degrees Fahrenheit and humidity 0 percent--to all tests. These exact figures allow apples-to-apples comparison of runs from different cars, different facilities, etc. So graphs with SAE-corrected power were made to this standard. The dyno in question must have a weather station and the proper software in order to generate SAE-corrected data.
Every Dynojet has a small weather station built in to feed the appropriate temperature and barometric pressure readings to the computer so it can calculate this factor. The difference between 0 percent and 100 percent humidity is about a seven percent correction. A temperature change from 60 to 90 degrees, on the other hand, will have an effect of about a 2.8 percent. A difference in elevation from sea level to 5000 feet is worth a whopping 20 percent!
In order for dyno results to be comparable and universally understood there are a number of things that need to be closely controlled during the measurement process: Operating Conditions - air temperature, pressure and humidity affect the amount of power an engine produces. Cold dense air means a greater mass of oxygen per power cycle and thus more power is generated (provided of course that air/fuel mixture is properly calibrated for the conditions prevailing). There are formula that can be used to calculate how much the measured power would change if the test conditions were different. This enables dyno results to be "corrected" back to standard conditions to enable comparison with anyone else's test results.
So you can see the difference "UNCORRECTED" can make
Don't take what I tell you for anything, but I guarantee you that there's many other guys here that will agree with what I've said in this post. So if you doubt my words, Im sure they will be more than happy to chime in. This is to say that, nothing I've said, or anyone else for that matter comes from jealousy. It is strictly based on our knowledge, experience, specifications, data, research etc.
I don't know how much better to really break anything else down. I ain't no writer, Im just some guy who loves cars, and this is the best I could do.
10-27-2009, 08:00 AM
#30
Safety Car
Originally Posted by Opel
2- Exhaust. Your exhaust modifications involve replacing the 3rd cat with a straight-through (non-restrictive) pipe, and removal of the pre-muffler. Now, I'm sure many will vouch, but my own experience with this, after having had every possible exhaust setup on the 3G TL , those 2 exhaust tweaks make a bigger difference by removing their own weight than the exhaust flow increase they allow.
So, even if somehow in some supernatural way, you have managed to squeeze some more air bubbles inside your motor and added a few drops of fuel, you're still not taking full advantage of your induction & injection due to lack of true exhaust modifications. Again, the exhaust modifications you've done are more effective in weight reduction form than they are in HP release.
10-27-2009, 10:38 AM
#31
Banned
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2009
Age: 41
Posts: 203
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
You're the 3 rd person to make the same point about this, including myself. So thank you Marcus.
\
The problem with this whole thing is, even if you had a TRUE TUNNING device, there just isn't enough to work with from what his modifications are.
Now, to the OP:
1- The CAI. That is not supplying the motor with any more air than it already sucks on stock form, so you could say that, with increased air, you could add some more fuel with the Apexi Neo and make some power. But this clearly isn't happening. You are not adding more air, so increase in fuel supply wouldn't do anything, but a worse MPG.
The biggest downfall of it all is the fact that you can't even adjust ignition timing with this device (you claimed this yourself). Even if you did, its already as far as it can go on 91 octane gas.
2- Exhaust. Your exhaust modifications involve replacing the 3rd cat with a straight-through (non-restrictive) pipe, and removal of the pre-muffler. Now, I'm sure many will vouch, but my own experience with this, after having had every possible exhaust setup on the 3G TL , those 2 exhaust tweaks make a bigger difference by removing their own weight than the exhaust flow increase they allow.
So, even if somehow in some supernatural way, you have managed to squeeze some more air bubbles inside your motor and added a few drops of fuel, you're still not taking full advantage of your induction & injection due to lack of true exhaust modifications. Again, the exhaust modifications you've done are more effective in weight reduction form than they are in HP release.
3- UR Crank Pulley. This will release/free up a few HP. But not to bring your WHP up to 287
One thing I wanna point out to you is:
As you know, your car's HP rating is 286 HP at the CRANK
Now from there on, that power gets transferred and is also used to spin the clutch and PP, the transmission, the axles, rotors, wheels and tires, which will result in power loss/reduction that's needed to move/spin all those parts (and they're heavy too) .
By the time the power reaches the outside of the tires/THE PAVEMENT, it has been reduced a great deal from 286 HP which was measured at the Crank.
So you mean to tell me, (and I can't stress this enough) that in your car there was only 26 HP loss/reduction through the entire drive-train? Because you claimed that your car put down 260 WHP on the dyno, stock. Meanwhile, every other 3G 6MT TL experiences around 40-50 HP loss. Which would mean that your WHP should be around 240-242 in stock form.
So to sum it all up, you managed to get 287 HP at the wheels (more than stock at the crank) by not even releasing HP, such as FULL FREE FLOWING EXHAUST, Light Weight Flywheel. So in other words, 90% of your added power came strictly through induction and injection, which in real world would mean that you managed to make about 330 crank HP.
That's an additional of about 45 HP, simply from a CAI and Apexi Neo, adding some fuel.
I wish you would take the time and really look at all this, and think about it, and not just say "look at the dyno sheet"
Speaking of the dyno graph:
It is not a strong form of proof, at least not to me personally. Much less when I know your modifications, I know the car and its motor along with the capabilities and potential. And so do many many other members here.
A tuner can tune a car, but he may not care how it reads. A tuner is more concerned in stimulating a certain load on the car before and after adjustments. Uncorrected numbers are also way off. Do some research and see for yourself what this really means.
Here's a few things:
A key element to producing comparable dyno charts on a global basis is the Correction Factor, SAE Standard J1349, which applies the following weather station data--atmospheric pressure 29.23, air temperature 77 degrees Fahrenheit and humidity 0 percent--to all tests. These exact figures allow apples-to-apples comparison of runs from different cars, different facilities, etc. So graphs with SAE-corrected power were made to this standard. The dyno in question must have a weather station and the proper software in order to generate SAE-corrected data.
Every Dynojet has a small weather station built in to feed the appropriate temperature and barometric pressure readings to the computer so it can calculate this factor. The difference between 0 percent and 100 percent humidity is about a seven percent correction. A temperature change from 60 to 90 degrees, on the other hand, will have an effect of about a 2.8 percent. A difference in elevation from sea level to 5000 feet is worth a whopping 20 percent!
In order for dyno results to be comparable and universally understood there are a number of things that need to be closely controlled during the measurement process: Operating Conditions - air temperature, pressure and humidity affect the amount of power an engine produces. Cold dense air means a greater mass of oxygen per power cycle and thus more power is generated (provided of course that air/fuel mixture is properly calibrated for the conditions prevailing). There are formula that can be used to calculate how much the measured power would change if the test conditions were different. This enables dyno results to be "corrected" back to standard conditions to enable comparison with anyone else's test results.
So you can see the difference "UNCORRECTED" can make
Don't take what I tell you for anything, but I guarantee you that there's many other guys here that will agree with what I've said in this post. So if you doubt my words, Im sure they will be more than happy to chime in. This is to say that, nothing I've said, or anyone else for that matter comes from jealousy. It is strictly based on our knowledge, experience, specifications, data, research etc.
I don't know how much better to really break anything else down. I ain't no writer, Im just some guy who loves cars, and this is the best I could do.
\
The problem with this whole thing is, even if you had a TRUE TUNNING device, there just isn't enough to work with from what his modifications are.
Now, to the OP:
1- The CAI. That is not supplying the motor with any more air than it already sucks on stock form, so you could say that, with increased air, you could add some more fuel with the Apexi Neo and make some power. But this clearly isn't happening. You are not adding more air, so increase in fuel supply wouldn't do anything, but a worse MPG.
The biggest downfall of it all is the fact that you can't even adjust ignition timing with this device (you claimed this yourself). Even if you did, its already as far as it can go on 91 octane gas.
2- Exhaust. Your exhaust modifications involve replacing the 3rd cat with a straight-through (non-restrictive) pipe, and removal of the pre-muffler. Now, I'm sure many will vouch, but my own experience with this, after having had every possible exhaust setup on the 3G TL , those 2 exhaust tweaks make a bigger difference by removing their own weight than the exhaust flow increase they allow.
So, even if somehow in some supernatural way, you have managed to squeeze some more air bubbles inside your motor and added a few drops of fuel, you're still not taking full advantage of your induction & injection due to lack of true exhaust modifications. Again, the exhaust modifications you've done are more effective in weight reduction form than they are in HP release.
3- UR Crank Pulley. This will release/free up a few HP. But not to bring your WHP up to 287
One thing I wanna point out to you is:
As you know, your car's HP rating is 286 HP at the CRANK
Now from there on, that power gets transferred and is also used to spin the clutch and PP, the transmission, the axles, rotors, wheels and tires, which will result in power loss/reduction that's needed to move/spin all those parts (and they're heavy too) .
By the time the power reaches the outside of the tires/THE PAVEMENT, it has been reduced a great deal from 286 HP which was measured at the Crank.
So you mean to tell me, (and I can't stress this enough) that in your car there was only 26 HP loss/reduction through the entire drive-train? Because you claimed that your car put down 260 WHP on the dyno, stock. Meanwhile, every other 3G 6MT TL experiences around 40-50 HP loss. Which would mean that your WHP should be around 240-242 in stock form.
So to sum it all up, you managed to get 287 HP at the wheels (more than stock at the crank) by not even releasing HP, such as FULL FREE FLOWING EXHAUST, Light Weight Flywheel. So in other words, 90% of your added power came strictly through induction and injection, which in real world would mean that you managed to make about 330 crank HP.
That's an additional of about 45 HP, simply from a CAI and Apexi Neo, adding some fuel.
I wish you would take the time and really look at all this, and think about it, and not just say "look at the dyno sheet"
Speaking of the dyno graph:
It is not a strong form of proof, at least not to me personally. Much less when I know your modifications, I know the car and its motor along with the capabilities and potential. And so do many many other members here.
A tuner can tune a car, but he may not care how it reads. A tuner is more concerned in stimulating a certain load on the car before and after adjustments. Uncorrected numbers are also way off. Do some research and see for yourself what this really means.
Here's a few things:
A key element to producing comparable dyno charts on a global basis is the Correction Factor, SAE Standard J1349, which applies the following weather station data--atmospheric pressure 29.23, air temperature 77 degrees Fahrenheit and humidity 0 percent--to all tests. These exact figures allow apples-to-apples comparison of runs from different cars, different facilities, etc. So graphs with SAE-corrected power were made to this standard. The dyno in question must have a weather station and the proper software in order to generate SAE-corrected data.
Every Dynojet has a small weather station built in to feed the appropriate temperature and barometric pressure readings to the computer so it can calculate this factor. The difference between 0 percent and 100 percent humidity is about a seven percent correction. A temperature change from 60 to 90 degrees, on the other hand, will have an effect of about a 2.8 percent. A difference in elevation from sea level to 5000 feet is worth a whopping 20 percent!
In order for dyno results to be comparable and universally understood there are a number of things that need to be closely controlled during the measurement process: Operating Conditions - air temperature, pressure and humidity affect the amount of power an engine produces. Cold dense air means a greater mass of oxygen per power cycle and thus more power is generated (provided of course that air/fuel mixture is properly calibrated for the conditions prevailing). There are formula that can be used to calculate how much the measured power would change if the test conditions were different. This enables dyno results to be "corrected" back to standard conditions to enable comparison with anyone else's test results.
So you can see the difference "UNCORRECTED" can make
Don't take what I tell you for anything, but I guarantee you that there's many other guys here that will agree with what I've said in this post. So if you doubt my words, Im sure they will be more than happy to chime in. This is to say that, nothing I've said, or anyone else for that matter comes from jealousy. It is strictly based on our knowledge, experience, specifications, data, research etc.
I don't know how much better to really break anything else down. I ain't no writer, Im just some guy who loves cars, and this is the best I could do.
10-27-2009, 10:53 AM
#34
boost 3G
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: athens, tn
Age: 37
Posts: 1,248
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
tl type-s stock being neck and neck with a 04 M3? and beating him by 2 car lengths with 3 simply bolt on's?
im with dan....k on this one...gimme some of what your smoking
and i beleive opel is at 375 WHP
im with dan....k on this one...gimme some of what your smoking
and i beleive opel is at 375 WHP
10-27-2009, 10:56 AM
#35
Banned
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2009
Age: 41
Posts: 203
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Here u go a 07 TL-S with work untuned remember that word untuned
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qczjjzHZDlw
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qczjjzHZDlw
10-27-2009, 11:09 AM
#39
Banned
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2009
Age: 41
Posts: 203
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Opel here is somthing for u something ull never be able to do or catch and remember do some search and read b4 u assume things .....http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AbnAi5zpwc0
10-27-2009, 11:13 AM
#40
Three Wheelin'
Your last few posts are proof of how you ignore everything.
You're so eager in trying to prove yourself.
I gave you a whole breakdown, and all you could respond with is a race with an M3
The race with the M3 isn't proof. Thats just 2 guys driving, that i know nothing about their driving.
The dyno vid again means absolutely nothing, so I dont know why on earth you would post that.
Im shocked at fact that after everything I said, your only defense was "I raced an M3 and we're neck to neck" as a good enough proof.
And you can't answer with anything to the rest of the 50 lines of what I said.
You're so eager in trying to prove yourself.
I gave you a whole breakdown, and all you could respond with is a race with an M3
The race with the M3 isn't proof. Thats just 2 guys driving, that i know nothing about their driving.
The dyno vid again means absolutely nothing, so I dont know why on earth you would post that.
Im shocked at fact that after everything I said, your only defense was "I raced an M3 and we're neck to neck" as a good enough proof.
And you can't answer with anything to the rest of the 50 lines of what I said.