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Old Oct 19, 2009 | 02:41 PM
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Apexi Neo

Finally got the apexi neo to tune and keep setting live so the emc wouldnt overide
Old Oct 20, 2009 | 01:44 PM
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How did u get it to work?
Old Oct 20, 2009 | 01:59 PM
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More info please.
Old Oct 20, 2009 | 02:13 PM
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Originally Posted by MrHeeltoe
More info please.
The way u wire it there is no way to control VTEC but u can control air and fuel and its perfect..... i had it on the dyno at 155mph all gears i did like 20 pulls 3rd and 4th gear and no problem.... the ecm wont b able to overide it ..... so far so good
Old Oct 20, 2009 | 04:48 PM
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drive it for a week let us know whats your mpgs
Old Oct 20, 2009 | 06:28 PM
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this could be very interesting. i also have a 6spd tl with some mods. if it works out i could easily break 300whp. this could be a breaKthrough for TL community. keep us informed, i would drive down to NJ to see this guy lol.
Old Oct 20, 2009 | 06:59 PM
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first off there has been a breakthrough its called the AEM F/IC, but no one seems to research or read anything, and it controls VTEC.

Secondly.. Apexi Neo controls AFR....what about IGNITION TIMING?????

and the MPG questions...everyone's looking to make power, but want better MPG.... IT IS NOT POSSIBLE on a fuel injected car, period! power is made based on how much air and FUEL <-----(seems to be everyone's worst enemy but want less of it to make more power) you can squeeze and the most higher compression possible inside the combustion chamber, and that can't possibly result to better MPG by squeezing more of those 2 inside your motor! (you can make more power by increasing compression ratio, but that'd require running a higher octane gas, which costs more)

I wish i knew a trick on how i could get less thirsty by drinking less water. (other liquids dont count)
Old Oct 21, 2009 | 12:17 AM
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Here u go man been done ....
Old Oct 21, 2009 | 12:19 AM
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Just look at the torque gain
Old Oct 21, 2009 | 01:12 AM
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All I am going to say is look at the top right corner. UNCORRECTED.\That doesn't include weather conditions, or anything!

Last edited by TheChamp531; Oct 21, 2009 at 01:16 AM.
Old Oct 21, 2009 | 01:36 AM
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Im in jersey it was about 78 degrees that day
Old Oct 21, 2009 | 01:38 AM
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dude, thats just a piece of paper...what do you mean, been done????....how accurate is the dyno? is it calibrated right,... you apparently dont have a clue about your own car...so some shop dynoed ur car, printed out this paper for you, and you take that as it comes?

if the dyno showed 350 hp, you would've believed that too..

think about whats reasonable as a mod, on your car, before you start believing every hype a dyno produces
Old Oct 21, 2009 | 08:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Opel
dude, thats just a piece of paper...what do you mean, been done????....how accurate is the dyno? is it calibrated right,... you apparently dont have a clue about your own car...so some shop dynoed ur car, printed out this paper for you, and you take that as it comes?

if the dyno showed 350 hp, you would've believed that too..

think about whats reasonable as a mod, on your car, before you start believing every hype a dyno produces
Yo on some real shit man think about what ur saying man i dynoed my car next to 1000whp civics who been accurate for a verry verry long time man ....my tuner just won second place on a shootout even where he dynoed his car at his shop and at the track same numbers u wanna tell me its wrong man ....do urself a favor go and search CLM Racing from newark nj 07105 and ull c youtube vids he just went 8 second pass @169 so im sure the numbers are on point
Old Oct 21, 2009 | 12:06 PM
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Your point is? You dynoed your car with 1000whp civics. If he was such a great tuner than he wouldn't use a uncorrected dyno. Secondly, him dynoing a 1000whp civic means shit these days. I race for Kenny Tran's jotech. I've seen 1800whp skylines, 1300whp civics, 1000whp SCION TC. Uncle has a 7 second 1967 Camaro and has 2 super novas, a 1971 challenger, and others. Also your CLM racing on youtube only shows a 10 and 9 second civic, barely into the 9s. I don't care how much "smart" your tuner is, we have over 1000 members that knows most of about our cars, and hundreds that have tried this over and over and over. We are sensitive to something like this because we don't see any proof, evidence, and instead we get superficial bullshit! Sorry to disappoint.
Old Oct 21, 2009 | 12:57 PM
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Originally Posted by TheChamp531
Your point is? You dynoed your car with 1000whp civics. If he was such a great tuner than he wouldn't use a uncorrected dyno. Secondly, him dynoing a 1000whp civic means shit these days. I race for Kenny Tran's jotech. I've seen 1800whp skylines, 1300whp civics, 1000whp SCION TC. Uncle has a 7 second 1967 Camaro and has 2 super novas, a 1971 challenger, and others. Also your CLM racing on youtube only shows a 10 and 9 second civic, barely into the 9s. I don't care how much "smart" your tuner is, we have over 1000 members that knows most of about our cars, and hundreds that have tried this over and over and over. We are sensitive to something like this because we don't see any proof, evidence, and instead we get superficial bullshit! Sorry to disappoint.
Here u go man watch the red car on the left CLM
Old Oct 21, 2009 | 02:45 PM
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so um if this is all true ... can you explain how this was done ... or if you can't, let's just close this thread down please ...
Old Oct 21, 2009 | 02:54 PM
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Originally Posted by crzygosu87
so um if this is all true ... can you explain how this was done ... or if you can't, let's just close this thread down please ...
what u mean explain i installed an aem cold air intake changed the exhaust a lil bit and installed a apexi neo threw it on the dyno and let me tuner tune it
Old Oct 21, 2009 | 02:58 PM
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Originally Posted by TL-S121
what u mean explain i installed an aem cold air intake changed the exhaust a lil bit and installed a apexi neo threw it on the dyno and let me tuner tune it
I think the question refers more to the fact of how did you install the NEO. Things like wiring! When one first accomplishes an install in the forum, one normally follows it up with details and a DIY of how he did it.
Old Oct 21, 2009 | 03:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Black_05_TL_6SP
I think the question refers more to the fact of how did you install the NEO. Things like wiring! When one first accomplishes an install in the forum, one normally follows it up with details and a DIY of how he did it.
well i have a friend of mine that ran into the problem and he never got it to work but when they did mine he was reserching the wiring for like 3 days then he told me to bring the car in and he got it he still has the diagram if u want i can email it to u .....
Old Oct 21, 2009 | 03:16 PM
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Originally Posted by TL-S121
well i have a friend of mine that ran into the problem and he never got it to work but when they did mine he was reserching the wiring for like 3 days then he told me to bring the car in and he got it he still has the diagram if u want i can email it to u .....
I think it best that you post it. Scan it in so everyone can use it.
Old Oct 21, 2009 | 03:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Black_05_TL_6SP
I think it best that you post it. Scan it in so everyone can use it.
Ok let me get the papers and ill do it tonite if i have time im at work
Old Oct 21, 2009 | 04:43 PM
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more like a hardwired data logger and digital parameter displays
Old Oct 21, 2009 | 07:28 PM
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haha shits pretty funny.
Old Oct 26, 2009 | 07:23 PM
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well, where's the wiring diagram?
Old Oct 26, 2009 | 07:31 PM
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Originally Posted by jdmspec333
well, where's the wiring diagram?
he no longer wants to show anything to us because he doesnt see a point when we make less power than him and we dont have type-s's , and our opinions dont matter because of this.

pretty scary, right lol
Old Oct 26, 2009 | 07:54 PM
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Haha, I got a call last week for installing one of these on a Mazdaspeed3

I think these things are great for helping tune in little bolt ons like intakes and exhausts. Yea for more optimal tuning you need something more involved. But for a little bump in fuel and expanded monitoring the AFC Neo is great.
Old Oct 27, 2009 | 01:58 AM
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Originally Posted by MrHeeltoe
I think these things are great for helping tune in little bolt ons like intakes and exhausts. Yea for more optimal tuning you need something more involved. But for a little bump in fuel and expanded monitoring the AFC Neo is great.
You're the 3 rd person to make the same point about this, including myself. So thank you Marcus.
\
The problem with this whole thing is, even if you had a TRUE TUNNING device, there just isn't enough to work with from what his modifications are.

Now, to the OP:
1- The CAI. That is not supplying the motor with any more air than it already sucks on stock form, so you could say that, with increased air, you could add some more fuel with the Apexi Neo and make some power. But this clearly isn't happening. You are not adding more air, so increase in fuel supply wouldn't do anything, but a worse MPG.
The biggest downfall of it all is the fact that you can't even adjust ignition timing with this device (you claimed this yourself). Even if you did, its already as far as it can go on 91 octane gas.

2- Exhaust. Your exhaust modifications involve replacing the 3rd cat with a straight-through (non-restrictive) pipe, and removal of the pre-muffler. Now, I'm sure many will vouch, but my own experience with this, after having had every possible exhaust setup on the 3G TL , those 2 exhaust tweaks make a bigger difference by removing their own weight than the exhaust flow increase they allow.

So, even if somehow in some supernatural way, you have managed to squeeze some more air bubbles inside your motor and added a few drops of fuel, you're still not taking full advantage of your induction & injection due to lack of true exhaust modifications. Again, the exhaust modifications you've done are more effective in weight reduction form than they are in HP release.

3- UR Crank Pulley. This will release/free up a few HP. But not to bring your WHP up to 287

One thing I wanna point out to you is:
As you know, your car's HP rating is 286 HP at the CRANK
Now from there on, that power gets transferred and is also used to spin the clutch and PP, the transmission, the axles, rotors, wheels and tires, which will result in power loss/reduction that's needed to move/spin all those parts (and they're heavy too) .
By the time the power reaches the outside of the tires/THE PAVEMENT, it has been reduced a great deal from 286 HP which was measured at the Crank.

So you mean to tell me, (and I can't stress this enough) that in your car there was only 26 HP loss/reduction through the entire drive-train? Because you claimed that your car put down 260 WHP on the dyno, stock. Meanwhile, every other 3G 6MT TL experiences around 40-50 HP loss. Which would mean that your WHP should be around 240-242 in stock form.

So to sum it all up, you managed to get 287 HP at the wheels (more than stock at the crank) by not even releasing HP, such as FULL FREE FLOWING EXHAUST, Light Weight Flywheel. So in other words, 90% of your added power came strictly through induction and injection, which in real world would mean that you managed to make about 330 crank HP.
That's an additional of about 45 HP, simply from a CAI and Apexi Neo, adding some fuel.

I wish you would take the time and really look at all this, and think about it, and not just say "look at the dyno sheet"

Speaking of the dyno graph:
It is not a strong form of proof, at least not to me personally. Much less when I know your modifications, I know the car and its motor along with the capabilities and potential. And so do many many other members here.
A tuner can tune a car, but he may not care how it reads. A tuner is more concerned in stimulating a certain load on the car before and after adjustments. Uncorrected numbers are also way off. Do some research and see for yourself what this really means.

Here's a few things:
A key element to producing comparable dyno charts on a global basis is the Correction Factor, SAE Standard J1349, which applies the following weather station data--atmospheric pressure 29.23, air temperature 77 degrees Fahrenheit and humidity 0 percent--to all tests. These exact figures allow apples-to-apples comparison of runs from different cars, different facilities, etc. So graphs with SAE-corrected power were made to this standard. The dyno in question must have a weather station and the proper software in order to generate SAE-corrected data.

Every Dynojet has a small weather station built in to feed the appropriate temperature and barometric pressure readings to the computer so it can calculate this factor. The difference between 0 percent and 100 percent humidity is about a seven percent correction. A temperature change from 60 to 90 degrees, on the other hand, will have an effect of about a 2.8 percent. A difference in elevation from sea level to 5000 feet is worth a whopping 20 percent!
In order for dyno results to be comparable and universally understood there are a number of things that need to be closely controlled during the measurement process: Operating Conditions - air temperature, pressure and humidity affect the amount of power an engine produces. Cold dense air means a greater mass of oxygen per power cycle and thus more power is generated (provided of course that air/fuel mixture is properly calibrated for the conditions prevailing). There are formula that can be used to calculate how much the measured power would change if the test conditions were different. This enables dyno results to be "corrected" back to standard conditions to enable comparison with anyone else's test results.

So you can see the difference "UNCORRECTED" can make

Don't take what I tell you for anything, but I guarantee you that there's many other guys here that will agree with what I've said in this post. So if you doubt my words, Im sure they will be more than happy to chime in. This is to say that, nothing I've said, or anyone else for that matter comes from jealousy. It is strictly based on our knowledge, experience, specifications, data, research etc.

I don't know how much better to really break anything else down. I ain't no writer, Im just some guy who loves cars, and this is the best I could do.
Old Oct 27, 2009 | 07:12 AM
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I have it. I took a few days to wire. No just because its alot of intense wiring, but the directions and diagrams are japan coded
Old Oct 27, 2009 | 07:44 AM
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OH NO. Another thread with the same dyno sheets. I can see this one being locked up too.
Old Oct 27, 2009 | 08:00 AM
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Originally Posted by Opel

2- Exhaust. Your exhaust modifications involve replacing the 3rd cat with a straight-through (non-restrictive) pipe, and removal of the pre-muffler. Now, I'm sure many will vouch, but my own experience with this, after having had every possible exhaust setup on the 3G TL , those 2 exhaust tweaks make a bigger difference by removing their own weight than the exhaust flow increase they allow.

So, even if somehow in some supernatural way, you have managed to squeeze some more air bubbles inside your motor and added a few drops of fuel, you're still not taking full advantage of your induction & injection due to lack of true exhaust modifications. Again, the exhaust modifications you've done are more effective in weight reduction form than they are in HP release.
I can vouch for the #2. I had done the 3rd cat delete and the mid muff delete. And, of course I know about weight reduction. Based on my experience, Opel is on the money with this assessment.
Old Oct 27, 2009 | 10:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Opel
You're the 3 rd person to make the same point about this, including myself. So thank you Marcus.
\
The problem with this whole thing is, even if you had a TRUE TUNNING device, there just isn't enough to work with from what his modifications are.

Now, to the OP:
1- The CAI. That is not supplying the motor with any more air than it already sucks on stock form, so you could say that, with increased air, you could add some more fuel with the Apexi Neo and make some power. But this clearly isn't happening. You are not adding more air, so increase in fuel supply wouldn't do anything, but a worse MPG.
The biggest downfall of it all is the fact that you can't even adjust ignition timing with this device (you claimed this yourself). Even if you did, its already as far as it can go on 91 octane gas.

2- Exhaust. Your exhaust modifications involve replacing the 3rd cat with a straight-through (non-restrictive) pipe, and removal of the pre-muffler. Now, I'm sure many will vouch, but my own experience with this, after having had every possible exhaust setup on the 3G TL , those 2 exhaust tweaks make a bigger difference by removing their own weight than the exhaust flow increase they allow.

So, even if somehow in some supernatural way, you have managed to squeeze some more air bubbles inside your motor and added a few drops of fuel, you're still not taking full advantage of your induction & injection due to lack of true exhaust modifications. Again, the exhaust modifications you've done are more effective in weight reduction form than they are in HP release.

3- UR Crank Pulley. This will release/free up a few HP. But not to bring your WHP up to 287

One thing I wanna point out to you is:
As you know, your car's HP rating is 286 HP at the CRANK
Now from there on, that power gets transferred and is also used to spin the clutch and PP, the transmission, the axles, rotors, wheels and tires, which will result in power loss/reduction that's needed to move/spin all those parts (and they're heavy too) .
By the time the power reaches the outside of the tires/THE PAVEMENT, it has been reduced a great deal from 286 HP which was measured at the Crank.

So you mean to tell me, (and I can't stress this enough) that in your car there was only 26 HP loss/reduction through the entire drive-train? Because you claimed that your car put down 260 WHP on the dyno, stock. Meanwhile, every other 3G 6MT TL experiences around 40-50 HP loss. Which would mean that your WHP should be around 240-242 in stock form.

So to sum it all up, you managed to get 287 HP at the wheels (more than stock at the crank) by not even releasing HP, such as FULL FREE FLOWING EXHAUST, Light Weight Flywheel. So in other words, 90% of your added power came strictly through induction and injection, which in real world would mean that you managed to make about 330 crank HP.
That's an additional of about 45 HP, simply from a CAI and Apexi Neo, adding some fuel.

I wish you would take the time and really look at all this, and think about it, and not just say "look at the dyno sheet"

Speaking of the dyno graph:
It is not a strong form of proof, at least not to me personally. Much less when I know your modifications, I know the car and its motor along with the capabilities and potential. And so do many many other members here.
A tuner can tune a car, but he may not care how it reads. A tuner is more concerned in stimulating a certain load on the car before and after adjustments. Uncorrected numbers are also way off. Do some research and see for yourself what this really means.

Here's a few things:
A key element to producing comparable dyno charts on a global basis is the Correction Factor, SAE Standard J1349, which applies the following weather station data--atmospheric pressure 29.23, air temperature 77 degrees Fahrenheit and humidity 0 percent--to all tests. These exact figures allow apples-to-apples comparison of runs from different cars, different facilities, etc. So graphs with SAE-corrected power were made to this standard. The dyno in question must have a weather station and the proper software in order to generate SAE-corrected data.

Every Dynojet has a small weather station built in to feed the appropriate temperature and barometric pressure readings to the computer so it can calculate this factor. The difference between 0 percent and 100 percent humidity is about a seven percent correction. A temperature change from 60 to 90 degrees, on the other hand, will have an effect of about a 2.8 percent. A difference in elevation from sea level to 5000 feet is worth a whopping 20 percent!
In order for dyno results to be comparable and universally understood there are a number of things that need to be closely controlled during the measurement process: Operating Conditions - air temperature, pressure and humidity affect the amount of power an engine produces. Cold dense air means a greater mass of oxygen per power cycle and thus more power is generated (provided of course that air/fuel mixture is properly calibrated for the conditions prevailing). There are formula that can be used to calculate how much the measured power would change if the test conditions were different. This enables dyno results to be "corrected" back to standard conditions to enable comparison with anyone else's test results.

So you can see the difference "UNCORRECTED" can make

Don't take what I tell you for anything, but I guarantee you that there's many other guys here that will agree with what I've said in this post. So if you doubt my words, Im sure they will be more than happy to chime in. This is to say that, nothing I've said, or anyone else for that matter comes from jealousy. It is strictly based on our knowledge, experience, specifications, data, research etc.

I don't know how much better to really break anything else down. I ain't no writer, Im just some guy who loves cars, and this is the best I could do.
Ok well then tell me this why is it that when i did a second gear pull with a 2004 BMW m3 when i was stock i would be neck to neck with him and just the other nite after i got tuned and we did it again i was in front of him by like 2 cars ? and now with the pre-cat deletes im making even more power so i dont no what to tell u ......
Old Oct 27, 2009 | 10:40 AM
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Opel ur making 347WHP man and ur supercharged ?my boy had an 04 and hes making 450WHP so im guessing its ur tuner ......
Old Oct 27, 2009 | 10:49 AM
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Originally Posted by TL-S121
Opel ur making 347WHP man and ur supercharged ?my boy had an 04 and hes making 450WHP so im guessing its ur tuner ......
I think he's @375 WHP. 450WHP Supercharged? An 04 TL? What's he/you smoking? I want some.
Old Oct 27, 2009 | 10:53 AM
  #34  
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tl type-s stock being neck and neck with a 04 M3? and beating him by 2 car lengths with 3 simply bolt on's?
im with dan....k on this one...gimme some of what your smoking
and i beleive opel is at 375 WHP
Old Oct 27, 2009 | 10:56 AM
  #35  
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Here u go a 07 TL-S with work untuned remember that word untuned

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qczjjzHZDlw
Old Oct 27, 2009 | 10:58 AM
  #36  
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I want u to explain me how that one is not possible look at the video
Old Oct 27, 2009 | 10:59 AM
  #37  
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he has every bolt on possible on it
Old Oct 27, 2009 | 11:03 AM
  #38  
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hes untuned so now remember all i was missing was the pre-cat and i was tuned and u trying to say i couldnt make the 287 u have no idea of what ur saying man
Old Oct 27, 2009 | 11:09 AM
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Opel here is somthing for u something ull never be able to do or catch and remember do some search and read b4 u assume things .....http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AbnAi5zpwc0
Old Oct 27, 2009 | 11:13 AM
  #40  
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Your last few posts are proof of how you ignore everything.
You're so eager in trying to prove yourself.
I gave you a whole breakdown, and all you could respond with is a race with an M3
The race with the M3 isn't proof. Thats just 2 guys driving, that i know nothing about their driving.

The dyno vid again means absolutely nothing, so I dont know why on earth you would post that.

Im shocked at fact that after everything I said, your only defense was "I raced an M3 and we're neck to neck" as a good enough proof.
And you can't answer with anything to the rest of the 50 lines of what I said.



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