AEM vs. INJEN Cold Air Intake - A retrospect
#42
From several mechanics have told me that Injen intakes fit AEM ones. AEM has more low ends and Injen has high ends from several dyno results that I'd researched. Which obviously tells us Injen has better results in quarter miles than zero to sixty comparing to AEM....just by split seconds. However, AEM has more repects....there's no doubt about it. My bottom line is either AEM or Injen.....those will work almost the same way. My choice is probably Injen ^^
#43
All I know is what I feel.....getting a G unit soon from Passport to help guage performance mods, ect. since I do not have good access to a dyno. Not sure what you mean when you say the AEM will fit in the Injen? What do you mean? The AEM tubing is about 1/4 to 1/2 inch larger in diameter? So in fact...if it could be done...the Injen would fit inside the AEM (Advanced Engine Management for those that dont know what AEM stands for, I know I just recently found out myself!) unit.
#45
Originally Posted by MichaelBenz
All I know is what I feel.....getting a G unit soon from Passport to help guage performance mods, ect. since I do not have good access to a dyno. Not sure what you mean when you say the AEM will fit in the Injen? What do you mean? The AEM tubing is about 1/4 to 1/2 inch larger in diameter? So in fact...if it could be done...the Injen would fit inside the AEM (Advanced Engine Management for those that dont know what AEM stands for, I know I just recently found out myself!) unit.
#48
Originally Posted by Pizza4Everyone
Aww sorry......lol I was reconnecting some of my sentence....I didn't proof read it before I posted my message. I'm not trying to argue or make assumptions based on my opinion. From what I'd heard from car mechanics is that they told me Injen intake installs more easily than AEM one. Injen intakes even include exact size of intake bracket as OEM intake. However, from what I'd researched off of internet lately...comparing Injen VS AEM, there were no solid results indicating AEM has better dynos than Injen, or AEM outperforms all Injen parts. There might be tons in theories out there provided to readers to persuade them in lucid way, but it's only in theories.....not really proven. If anyone wants share dynos regarding Injen VS AEM intakes.....post it please. I like to see them ^^
But I do know that AEM tubing is larger in diameter than Injen, I have seen that. The Injen unit is a teeny bit longer.....but diameter is going to effect intake amt more than the fact that the Injen in a bit closer to the front grill.
#49
Car Addict
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Chicago (Lincoln Square)
Posts: 843
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Nice SOTP comparo, but dyno numbers or even track numbers would make them more valid. Most CAI's for most cars, assuming they are the same general design, will dyno within 1-3 hp of each other.
I might dyno my car stock, then install the Injen CAI, and then drop the exhaust just to see if the mufflers are choking that much....
I might dyno my car stock, then install the Injen CAI, and then drop the exhaust just to see if the mufflers are choking that much....
#50
Originally Posted by Pro Stock John
Nice SOTP comparo, but dyno numbers or even track numbers would make them more valid. Most CAI's for most cars, assuming they are the same general design, will dyno within 1-3 hp of each other.
I might dyno my car stock, then install the Injen CAI, and then drop the exhaust just to see if the mufflers are choking that much....
I might dyno my car stock, then install the Injen CAI, and then drop the exhaust just to see if the mufflers are choking that much....
#51
Intermediate
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Stamford, CT
Age: 42
Posts: 34
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
MichaelBenz,
Awesome write up.
I really doubt i'll be changing my exhaust, but I really want avoid that loud ass noise when installing an intake. Which woudl say produces the least noise?
Being that i'm keeeping the exhaust stock, I just want some added performance but not have to deal w/ people hearing coming from down the block.
Thanks Again,
Awesome write up.
I really doubt i'll be changing my exhaust, but I really want avoid that loud ass noise when installing an intake. Which woudl say produces the least noise?
Being that i'm keeeping the exhaust stock, I just want some added performance but not have to deal w/ people hearing coming from down the block.
Thanks Again,
#52
Previous Owner
Originally Posted by Excelerate
Guys, I'm working on some numbers right now for a GB.
#53
Former Sponsor
iTrader: (1)
Originally Posted by Thorin78
Excelerate, ever considered setting up a secondary paypal account that only takes non-cc payments? So that we don't have to pay the 3% fee for non-cc payments for you to recoup your loss?
I could set up another account for those who would transfer funds from a bank acct. and therefore avoid the Paypal fees.
#54
Originally Posted by Excelerate
Well I just couldn't beat the price that you guys are getting it for. I tried for hours trying to convince numerous different suppliers. So the best I could have done was $205 shipped.
I could set up another account for those who would transfer funds from a bank acct. and therefore avoid the Paypal fees.
I could set up another account for those who would transfer funds from a bank acct. and therefore avoid the Paypal fees.
I contacted a few ebayer. they started to ship with the new dryflow AEM filters now instead of the old oil ones. how about u? 205 - 3% is not exactly that bad. i would get it from you if u can get the new dryflow one.
can we buy aem or after market water splash protector for our model? thx.
#55
Previous Owner
Excelerate, that's great to hear.
Ttliang: I believe that would be $205 flat. if it were 3%, then it would be $211.xx I've asked the same question that others mentioned about why he couldn't beat the ebay prices, however the response I got from many supporters were that Excelerate supports this site back for us. I totally agree with this and I think his $205 price is really great. it's only $10 more than the cheapest on ebay w/ shipping.
Can someone tell me the difference between the V2 and V1 system?
and the difference between the oil and dryflow filter please.
Ttliang: I believe that would be $205 flat. if it were 3%, then it would be $211.xx I've asked the same question that others mentioned about why he couldn't beat the ebay prices, however the response I got from many supporters were that Excelerate supports this site back for us. I totally agree with this and I think his $205 price is really great. it's only $10 more than the cheapest on ebay w/ shipping.
Can someone tell me the difference between the V2 and V1 system?
and the difference between the oil and dryflow filter please.
#56
I thought u mentioned bank account thing so he can "further" reduce the price for about 3%. anyway. i agree $205 ain't bad at all.
they don't have V2 for TL anyway.
dryflow is a sythetic material. they said is more durable and can be cleaned and re-used. the oil one can be cleaned and re-used also but you'd have to reapply that pink oil thing to rejuvenate the filter. dryflow u just shake dry. it's easier to clean for one. they did flow tests, high temp. burn tests and chemical tests on both and dryflow came out ahead (in their tests anyway. claimed "independent"). i'd get dryflow just for the sake of ez cleaning.
it's got a lot of info here http://www.aempower.com/default.asp
u might find V2 info too.
they don't have V2 for TL anyway.
dryflow is a sythetic material. they said is more durable and can be cleaned and re-used. the oil one can be cleaned and re-used also but you'd have to reapply that pink oil thing to rejuvenate the filter. dryflow u just shake dry. it's easier to clean for one. they did flow tests, high temp. burn tests and chemical tests on both and dryflow came out ahead (in their tests anyway. claimed "independent"). i'd get dryflow just for the sake of ez cleaning.
it's got a lot of info here http://www.aempower.com/default.asp
u might find V2 info too.
#59
Advanced
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Austin, TX
Age: 49
Posts: 73
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I live in Florida where rain storms and large puddles are a daily summer occurance and difficult or impossible to avoid.
Has anyone installed the AEM bypass valve on their AEM CAI? If so, what type of modification was required to the intake (as mentioned on AEM's site)? Does the fit and finish of the install still look good as well as function properly?
Has anyone installed the AEM bypass valve on their AEM CAI? If so, what type of modification was required to the intake (as mentioned on AEM's site)? Does the fit and finish of the install still look good as well as function properly?
#60
Originally Posted by vdubgruven
I live in Florida where rain storms and large puddles are a daily summer occurance and difficult or impossible to avoid.
Has anyone installed the AEM bypass valve on their AEM CAI? If so, what type of modification was required to the intake (as mentioned on AEM's site)? Does the fit and finish of the install still look good as well as function properly?
Has anyone installed the AEM bypass valve on their AEM CAI? If so, what type of modification was required to the intake (as mentioned on AEM's site)? Does the fit and finish of the install still look good as well as function properly?
#61
Advanced
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Austin, TX
Age: 49
Posts: 73
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks for the response. I had an AEM on my lowered Accord without any problems for several years, but it's difficult to make that judgement call without actually seeing the unit installed on this car.
I will order a silver AEM CAI as soon as I finish the install of the Comptech RSB and Blaupunkt DVD/TV video unit.
A few more questions if you don't mind. It's my understaning from this and other posts that you can move the 02 sensor closer to the filter on the AEM unit that in turn tells the computer that the engine is receiving cooler, more dense air. To make this change you have to cut into the harness. Can you leave the sensor in the stock location? I'm sure that I will miss out on a few ponies by not moving it.
I've also read that you have drill out 2 to 3 rivets, are these holding in the stock air box?
I will order a silver AEM CAI as soon as I finish the install of the Comptech RSB and Blaupunkt DVD/TV video unit.
A few more questions if you don't mind. It's my understaning from this and other posts that you can move the 02 sensor closer to the filter on the AEM unit that in turn tells the computer that the engine is receiving cooler, more dense air. To make this change you have to cut into the harness. Can you leave the sensor in the stock location? I'm sure that I will miss out on a few ponies by not moving it.
I've also read that you have drill out 2 to 3 rivets, are these holding in the stock air box?
#62
Originally Posted by vdubgruven
Thanks for the response. I had an AEM on my lowered Accord without any problems for several years, but it's difficult to make that judgement call without actually seeing the unit installed on this car.
I will order a silver AEM CAI as soon as I finish the install of the Comptech RSB and Blaupunkt DVD/TV video unit.
A few more questions if you don't mind. It's my understaning from this and other posts that you can move the 02 sensor closer to the filter on the AEM unit that in turn tells the computer that the engine is receiving cooler, more dense air. To make this change you have to cut into the harness. Can you leave the sensor in the stock location? I'm sure that I will miss out on a few ponies by not moving it.
I've also read that you have drill out 2 to 3 rivets, are these holding in the stock air box?
I will order a silver AEM CAI as soon as I finish the install of the Comptech RSB and Blaupunkt DVD/TV video unit.
A few more questions if you don't mind. It's my understaning from this and other posts that you can move the 02 sensor closer to the filter on the AEM unit that in turn tells the computer that the engine is receiving cooler, more dense air. To make this change you have to cut into the harness. Can you leave the sensor in the stock location? I'm sure that I will miss out on a few ponies by not moving it.
I've also read that you have drill out 2 to 3 rivets, are these holding in the stock air box?
https://acurazine.com/forums/ramblings-12/smack-my-bitch-up-%5Bvid%5D-128867/
you just need to peel off the stock eletrical tape that ties the wire together to give you enough length to reach the new location and re-tape them. no new wiring or things like that.
yes. you can leave it at stock position. AEM provides a plug with washer for the hole.
you need to drill out 2 rivets if you don't want to take off the whole front bumper. you take the front tire and the liner off to reach the stock resonator for removal. very good instruction from AEM. if you take the whole bumper off i believe you can save the entire assembly (it's only like $60 so no big deal one way or the other). if you drill carefully enough, you might be able to put the stock back together with two larger screws. or just cut off resonator to have the "no resonator-stock intake" CAI mod.
#63
Originally Posted by vdubgruven
Thanks for the response. I had an AEM on my lowered Accord without any problems for several years, but it's difficult to make that judgement call without actually seeing the unit installed on this car.
I will order a silver AEM CAI as soon as I finish the install of the Comptech RSB and Blaupunkt DVD/TV video unit.
A few more questions if you don't mind. It's my understaning from this and other posts that you can move the 02 sensor closer to the filter on the AEM unit that in turn tells the computer that the engine is receiving cooler, more dense air. To make this change you have to cut into the harness. Can you leave the sensor in the stock location? I'm sure that I will miss out on a few ponies by not moving it.
I've also read that you have drill out 2 to 3 rivets, are these holding in the stock air box?
I will order a silver AEM CAI as soon as I finish the install of the Comptech RSB and Blaupunkt DVD/TV video unit.
A few more questions if you don't mind. It's my understaning from this and other posts that you can move the 02 sensor closer to the filter on the AEM unit that in turn tells the computer that the engine is receiving cooler, more dense air. To make this change you have to cut into the harness. Can you leave the sensor in the stock location? I'm sure that I will miss out on a few ponies by not moving it.
I've also read that you have drill out 2 to 3 rivets, are these holding in the stock air box?
As to the IAT sensor (not an o2 sensor...it is an intake air temp sensor) there is no wire cutting involved....just cutting some tape to let the slack loose.
#64
Originally Posted by vdubgruven
I live in Florida where rain storms and large puddles are a daily summer occurance and difficult or impossible to avoid.
Has anyone installed the AEM bypass valve on their AEM CAI? If so, what type of modification was required to the intake (as mentioned on AEM's site)? Does the fit and finish of the install still look good as well as function properly?
Has anyone installed the AEM bypass valve on their AEM CAI? If so, what type of modification was required to the intake (as mentioned on AEM's site)? Does the fit and finish of the install still look good as well as function properly?
Don't worry about the rain...I live in Florida also and I have the AEM...It was the first mod i did, and we went through Wilma and all of that other tropical crap and I was just fine. Now I wouldn't drive through anything deep, just use common sense and you will be fine.
#65
Advanced
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Austin, TX
Age: 49
Posts: 73
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Great...Thanks MB and FL... The write up is awesome, now if just more poeple could post their magic mods in the same format we could replace the Acura service manual with the monster book of mods!!!
#68
IDontRideFastIJustFlyLow
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: GA
Posts: 167
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
im buyin a aem cai with the old filter on it is used with around 7.5K miles on it, do i need to change the filter ? or just oil it and keep it goin? what do i need to check when i buy it used? any particular thing?
#69
Originally Posted by Gunsnroses316
im buyin a aem cai with the old filter on it is used with around 7.5K miles on it, do i need to change the filter ? or just oil it and keep it goin? what do i need to check when i buy it used? any particular thing?
#70
Imma be taking the bumper off...any lil tricky areas in taking ths stock intake off?
Sorry, but I dont get where your actually "drilling". I have a 00 civic si I never had to drill anything...is it that differ for our 04 +TL's?
Sorry, but I dont get where your actually "drilling". I have a 00 civic si I never had to drill anything...is it that differ for our 04 +TL's?
#71
Originally Posted by Nandito28
Imma be taking the bumper off...any lil tricky areas in taking ths stock intake off?
Sorry, but I dont get where your actually "drilling". I have a 00 civic si I never had to drill anything...is it that differ for our 04 +TL's?
Sorry, but I dont get where your actually "drilling". I have a 00 civic si I never had to drill anything...is it that differ for our 04 +TL's?
Where you have to drill...there are two pop-rivets that hold the sections together towards the bottom of the OEM intake that you drill out....you can most likely see them if you crawl under your car front and follow the intake pipe to the lowest point where it bends back upwards and the joint will be right there in that area. It is just an area that two sections fit together.
#73
Originally Posted by Nandito28
Imma be taking the bumper off...any lil tricky areas in taking ths stock intake off?
Sorry, but I dont get where your actually "drilling". I have a 00 civic si I never had to drill anything...is it that differ for our 04 +TL's?
Sorry, but I dont get where your actually "drilling". I have a 00 civic si I never had to drill anything...is it that differ for our 04 +TL's?
#74
Oderint dum metuant.
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Lake Wylie
Age: 46
Posts: 12,496
Likes: 0
Received 534 Likes
on
446 Posts
Yeah, definitely drilling required, although it's pretty simple (cheap little rivets). The biggest hassle is removing the inlet tube from the resonator box...no tricks, just lots and LOTS of elbow grease...just keep at it.
Oh, one little tip...when you go to remove the resonator box, there's a hard to reach bolt to the left, up top (this will make sense when you're in there)...it's blocked by part of the resonator box. The instructions don't mention it and the picture shows the RB as one unit, but the part blocking the bolt can be removed. Remove the bolt you can clearly see and push the piece towards the front of the car...it pops right out, leaving the bolt holding the resonator box easily accessible.
I tried to find a pic of what I'm talking about, but no such luck. It's the first pic on the top of page 3 in the instructions, I believe...the words simply say "remove the resonator box" or something to that effect. The little piece that is to the left in that pic that's connected to the big piece by two "sticks" is what I'm talking about...the two sticks pop in and out of the big box.
Ok, that rambles and probably makes no sense, but when you get in there, hopefully some of it will.
Oh, one little tip...when you go to remove the resonator box, there's a hard to reach bolt to the left, up top (this will make sense when you're in there)...it's blocked by part of the resonator box. The instructions don't mention it and the picture shows the RB as one unit, but the part blocking the bolt can be removed. Remove the bolt you can clearly see and push the piece towards the front of the car...it pops right out, leaving the bolt holding the resonator box easily accessible.
I tried to find a pic of what I'm talking about, but no such luck. It's the first pic on the top of page 3 in the instructions, I believe...the words simply say "remove the resonator box" or something to that effect. The little piece that is to the left in that pic that's connected to the big piece by two "sticks" is what I'm talking about...the two sticks pop in and out of the big box.
Ok, that rambles and probably makes no sense, but when you get in there, hopefully some of it will.
#75
Originally Posted by chill_dog
Yeah, definitely drilling required, although it's pretty simple (cheap little rivets). The biggest hassle is removing the inlet tube from the resonator box...no tricks, just lots and LOTS of elbow grease...just keep at it.
Oh, one little tip...when you go to remove the resonator box, there's a hard to reach bolt to the left, up top (this will make sense when you're in there)...it's blocked by part of the resonator box. The instructions don't mention it and the picture shows the RB as one unit, but the part blocking the bolt can be removed. Remove the bolt you can clearly see and push the piece towards the front of the car...it pops right out, leaving the bolt holding the resonator box easily accessible.
I tried to find a pic of what I'm talking about, but no such luck. It's the first pic on the top of page 3 in the instructions, I believe...the words simply say "remove the resonator box" or something to that effect. The little piece that is to the left in that pic that's connected to the big piece by two "sticks" is what I'm talking about...the two sticks pop in and out of the big box.
Ok, that rambles and probably makes no sense, but when you get in there, hopefully some of it will.
Oh, one little tip...when you go to remove the resonator box, there's a hard to reach bolt to the left, up top (this will make sense when you're in there)...it's blocked by part of the resonator box. The instructions don't mention it and the picture shows the RB as one unit, but the part blocking the bolt can be removed. Remove the bolt you can clearly see and push the piece towards the front of the car...it pops right out, leaving the bolt holding the resonator box easily accessible.
I tried to find a pic of what I'm talking about, but no such luck. It's the first pic on the top of page 3 in the instructions, I believe...the words simply say "remove the resonator box" or something to that effect. The little piece that is to the left in that pic that's connected to the big piece by two "sticks" is what I'm talking about...the two sticks pop in and out of the big box.
Ok, that rambles and probably makes no sense, but when you get in there, hopefully some of it will.
#77
Originally Posted by Nandito28
Way more than I expected (NOT that im complaining)...Great info and illustrations!!! Thanks MB, tt, and chill
#79
Originally Posted by [url="http:///#"
Acura[/url] Jeff]How long did it take to remove the OEM intake and replace it with the AEM CAI?
Did you by any chance consider the K&N Typhoon?
Did you by any chance consider the K&N Typhoon?
it took me a few hours with beers and a bit of thinking! After this...Injen to AEM switchout thereafter took about 20 minutes total. (been there done that by this point)...so....I would plan on about an hour, depending upon your work speed. I tend to go kind of slow and carefull so I dont scratch or marr things...so others may do it faster?
No...never considered that one at all. (K&N)
#80
Thanks for the quick response.
Is their a reason why you did not consider the K&N? I am not so sure about the difference in posted HP gains between the two units. I can see maybe 2-3 HP difference, but am struggling with 10HP or more.
Is their a reason why you did not consider the K&N? I am not so sure about the difference in posted HP gains between the two units. I can see maybe 2-3 HP difference, but am struggling with 10HP or more.