MichaelBenz

iTrader: (2)

Thats the guy! (lol)

Pizza4Everyone

From several mechanics have told me that Injen intakes fit AEM ones. AEM has more low ends and Injen has high ends from several dyno results that I'd researched. Which obviously tells us Injen has better results in quarter miles than zero to sixty comparing to AEM....just by split seconds. However, AEM has more repects....there's no doubt about it. My bottom line is either AEM or Injen.....those will work almost the same way. My choice is probably Injen ^^

MichaelBenz

iTrader: (2)

All I know is what I feel.....getting a G unit soon from Passport to help guage performance mods, ect. since I do not have good access to a dyno. Not sure what you mean when you say the AEM will fit in the Injen? What do you mean? The AEM tubing is about 1/4 to 1/2 inch larger in diameter? So in fact...if it could be done...the Injen would fit inside the AEM (Advanced Engine Management for those that dont know what AEM stands for, I know I just recently found out myself!) unit.

trancemission

Im in for a group by for AEM.....they're on E-BAY now for 169. plus shipping.

Pizza4Everyone

Aww sorry......lol I was reconnecting some of my sentence....I didn't proof read it before I posted my message. I'm not trying to argue or make assumptions based on my opinion. From what I'd heard from car mechanics is that they told me Injen intake installs more easily than AEM one. Injen intakes even include exact size of intake bracket as OEM intake. However, from what I'd researched off of internet lately...comparing Injen VS AEM, there were no solid results indicating AEM has better dynos than Injen, or AEM outperforms all Injen parts. There might be tons in theories out there provided to readers to persuade them in lucid way, but it's only in theories.....not really proven. If anyone wants share dynos regarding Injen VS AEM intakes.....post it please. I like to see them ^^

invincible569

great write up. Im definitely interested in the AEM.

trancemission

MichaelBenz

iTrader: (2)

Not sure...really didnt pay much attention to the factory related dynos they list as they usually are not real accurate - I am just going by seat of the pants theory here. As for the install....I can tell you from experience that neither one is easier to install than the other....in fact...if I had to judge one or the other....the Injen was a bit more of a hassle as you had to relocate ground wires, where on the AEM you did not....other than that they are almost identical installs. (and neither one needs the front bumper removed as they state...go through the driver inner wheel well) The AEM does have the sensor relocation spot that the Injen does not though (which does void the CARB status when you do that to the AEM...woopee) I am not arguing that one is better than the other....I have had them both though, and I recommend AEM due to price, sensor relocate option (takes two minutes...real easy and they give you all the necessary plugs and gaskets), and the seat of the pants feel that I got. I still have the Injen in the garage...and the OEM airbox....havent really compared those two as OEM has so many turns, baffle, ect. it isnt a real good comparison....all I know is that you want that thing off in a hurry...it robs HP. I do recommend teaming a good intake with a decent exhaust to open up the back end too though...or you are really missing a lot of HP gains. Opening up both intake and exhaust....with either unit AEM or Injen....turn VSA off for a minute....and punch it and it will definately leave a smile on your face!

But I do know that AEM tubing is larger in diameter than Injen, I have seen that. The Injen unit is a teeny bit longer.....but diameter is going to effect intake amt more than the fact that the Injen in a bit closer to the front grill.

Pro Stock John

Nice SOTP comparo, but dyno numbers or even track numbers would make them more valid. Most CAI's for most cars, assuming they are the same general design, will dyno within 1-3 hp of each other.

I might dyno my car stock, then install the Injen CAI, and then drop the exhaust just to see if the mufflers are choking that much....

MichaelBenz

iTrader: (2)

Yes...they are the same GENERAL design...but the Injen unit tubing is about 1/4" smaller diameter and has no IAT sensor relocation option (makes a little more power with IAT mod, which is why I swiched) and is somewhat longer tubing too. I think the setup you go with and what would work best really depends upon your existing/planned mods. I am not too sure that the engine would even be able to use all the air the AEM throws at it without a bigger exhaust to run through also. JMO though.

RRSRER

MichaelBenz,

Awesome write up.

I really doubt i'll be changing my exhaust, but I really want avoid that loud ass noise when installing an intake. Which woudl say produces the least noise?

Being that i'm keeeping the exhaust stock, I just want some added performance but not have to deal w/ people hearing coming from down the block.

Thanks Again,

Thorin78

Excelerate, ever considered setting up a secondary paypal account that only takes non-cc payments? So that we don't have to pay the 3% fee for non-cc payments for you to recoup your loss?

Excelerate

iTrader: (1)

Well I just couldn't beat the price that you guys are getting it for. I tried for hours trying to convince numerous different suppliers. So the best I could have done was $205 shipped.

I could set up another account for those who would transfer funds from a bank acct. and therefore avoid the Paypal fees.

ttliang

I contacted a few ebayer. they started to ship with the new dryflow AEM filters now instead of the old oil ones. how about u? 205 - 3% is not exactly that bad. i would get it from you if u can get the new dryflow one.

can we buy aem or after market water splash protector for our model? thx.

Thorin78

Excelerate, that's great to hear.

Ttliang: I believe that would be $205 flat. if it were 3%, then it would be $211.xx I've asked the same question that others mentioned about why he couldn't beat the ebay prices, however the response I got from many supporters were that Excelerate supports this site back for us. I totally agree with this and I think his $205 price is really great. it's only $10 more than the cheapest on ebay w/ shipping.

Can someone tell me the difference between the V2 and V1 system?
and the difference between the oil and dryflow filter please.

ttliang

I thought u mentioned bank account thing so he can "further" reduce the price for about 3%. anyway. i agree $205 ain't bad at all.

they don't have V2 for TL anyway.

dryflow is a sythetic material. they said is more durable and can be cleaned and re-used. the oil one can be cleaned and re-used also but you'd have to reapply that pink oil thing to rejuvenate the filter. dryflow u just shake dry. it's easier to clean for one. they did flow tests, high temp. burn tests and chemical tests on both and dryflow came out ahead (in their tests anyway. claimed "independent"). i'd get dryflow just for the sake of ez cleaning.

it's got a lot of info here http://www.aempower.com/default.asp

u might find V2 info too.

A-Spec Guy

Recommends/props to AEM also!

MichaelBenz

iTrader: (2)

Resubscribed. Any questions on AEM or Injen, just let me know. Thanks!

vdubgruven

I live in Florida where rain storms and large puddles are a daily summer occurance and difficult or impossible to avoid.

Has anyone installed the AEM bypass valve on their AEM CAI? If so, what type of modification was required to the intake (as mentioned on AEM's site)? Does the fit and finish of the install still look good as well as function properly?

MichaelBenz

iTrader: (2)

Nobody that I know of has installed this bypass valve. #1 - the introduction of this bypass valve would cause turbulence in the system....#2 - I dont think there is really room for this bypass in the system without looking totally hokey....and #3 - For the most part....you really dont need it man! Our intakes are already in an enclosed cavity with plenty of protection in the drivers side front fender/bumper cavity....unless you submerge the bumper...which would be totally friggin nuts....or drive through majorly HIGH water....which again...would be nuts!

vdubgruven

Thanks for the response. I had an AEM on my lowered Accord without any problems for several years, but it's difficult to make that judgement call without actually seeing the unit installed on this car.

I will order a silver AEM CAI as soon as I finish the install of the Comptech RSB and Blaupunkt DVD/TV video unit.

A few more questions if you don't mind. It's my understaning from this and other posts that you can move the 02 sensor closer to the filter on the AEM unit that in turn tells the computer that the engine is receiving cooler, more dense air. To make this change you have to cut into the harness. Can you leave the sensor in the stock location? I'm sure that I will miss out on a few ponies by not moving it.

I've also read that you have drill out 2 to 3 rivets, are these holding in the stock air box?

ttliang

we currently have a discussion going on here about the sensor location
https://acurazine.com/forums/ramblings-12/smack-my-bitch-up-%5Bvid%5D-128867/

you just need to peel off the stock eletrical tape that ties the wire together to give you enough length to reach the new location and re-tape them. no new wiring or things like that.

yes. you can leave it at stock position. AEM provides a plug with washer for the hole.

you need to drill out 2 rivets if you don't want to take off the whole front bumper. you take the front tire and the liner off to reach the stock resonator for removal. very good instruction from AEM. if you take the whole bumper off i believe you can save the entire assembly (it's only like $60 so no big deal one way or the other). if you drill carefully enough, you might be able to put the stock back together with two larger screws. or just cut off resonator to have the "no resonator-stock intake" CAI mod.

MichaelBenz

iTrader: (2)

The rivets you drill are right at the bottom of the pipe section where it bends back up..easy to get to....and not sure what the hell the other guy is saying, because you never damage it taking it off either way? You have to drill the pop-rivets out to disconnect the pipe sections...and there is also a sealer inside the joint...which is why you have to pull it kind of hard to break the sealer....as for damage...not gonna happen either way. If you cut it off a any point....you are "hacking" the job....not necessary at all.

As to the IAT sensor (not an o2 sensor...it is an intake air temp sensor) there is no wire cutting involved....just cutting some tape to let the slack loose.

flvol77

Don't worry about the rain...I live in Florida also and I have the AEM...It was the first mod i did, and we went through Wilma and all of that other tropical crap and I was just fine. Now I wouldn't drive through anything deep, just use common sense and you will be fine.

vdubgruven

Great...Thanks MB and FL... The write up is awesome, now if just more poeple could post their magic mods in the same format we could replace the Acura service manual with the monster book of mods!!!

vdubgruven

flvol77 - How did you smoke your tails? I'm also wondering if you have a close up picture of your chrome grill? Where did you get it?

MichaelBenz

iTrader: (2)

Thats another thread another time.....just send him a PM.

Gunsnroses316

im buyin a aem cai with the old filter on it is used with around 7.5K miles on it, do i need to change the filter ? or just oil it and keep it goin? what do i need to check when i buy it used? any particular thing?

MichaelBenz

iTrader: (2)

Your prob ok....but personally....I would change it out. Its new to you...may as well start with a new filter....people often lie about milage incurred on parts to make them seem newer, especially a nonwear part like you are talking about.

Nandito28

Imma be taking the bumper off...any lil tricky areas in taking ths stock intake off?

Sorry, but I dont get where your actually "drilling". I have a 00 civic si I never had to drill anything...is it that differ for our 04 +TL's?

MichaelBenz

iTrader: (2)

If your removing the bumper....it doesnt matter....you prob wont have to drill I dont think. BUT....you can easily do this without taking the bumper off! Go in through the drivers wheel well....then all you remove is front drivers wheel and inner fender well (all VERY easy stuff!).

Where you have to drill...there are two pop-rivets that hold the sections together towards the bottom of the OEM intake that you drill out....you can most likely see them if you crawl under your car front and follow the intake pipe to the lowest point where it bends back upwards and the joint will be right there in that area. It is just an area that two sections fit together.

Gunsnroses316

thanks MB

ttliang

you do have to drill if you don't take off the bumper. i had tried to find a way for 3 hours with no avail. here is why. that lower U shape thing will not come out unless you take off the bumper or break it apart first (that's where the drilling comes in). the second picture shows you exactly where to drill off the two rivets (two red lines). hope this clears things up for ya.

chill_dog

Yeah, definitely drilling required, although it's pretty simple (cheap little rivets). The biggest hassle is removing the inlet tube from the resonator box...no tricks, just lots and LOTS of elbow grease...just keep at it.

Oh, one little tip...when you go to remove the resonator box, there's a hard to reach bolt to the left, up top (this will make sense when you're in there)...it's blocked by part of the resonator box. The instructions don't mention it and the picture shows the RB as one unit, but the part blocking the bolt can be removed. Remove the bolt you can clearly see and push the piece towards the front of the car...it pops right out, leaving the bolt holding the resonator box easily accessible.

I tried to find a pic of what I'm talking about, but no such luck. It's the first pic on the top of page 3 in the instructions, I believe...the words simply say "remove the resonator box" or something to that effect. The little piece that is to the left in that pic that's connected to the big piece by two "sticks" is what I'm talking about...the two sticks pop in and out of the big box.

Ok, that rambles and probably makes no sense, but when you get in there, hopefully some of it will.

ttliang

that's "screw A" on the left side of my 2nd pic chill mentioned..

Nandito28

Way more than I expected (NOT that im complaining)...Great info and illustrations!!! Thanks MB, tt, and chill

MichaelBenz

iTrader: (2)

Its not that bad....actually I did my last switchout (Injen to AEM) in a very short time...around half hour or something, with beverages. Once the OEM is out....getting the new installed is no biggie.... And I did both through the front well. I think the first install took when I had to take the OEM off (still no bumper removal) took a few hours in the sun, with beverages and smokes...and thinking time.

Acura Jeff

How long did it take to remove the OEM intake and replace it with the AEM CAI?

Did you by any chance consider the K&N Typhoon?

MichaelBenz

iTrader: (2)

The first time I did it (Injen the first time...but makes no diff install - wise....)

it took me a few hours with beers and a bit of thinking! After this...Injen to AEM switchout thereafter took about 20 minutes total. (been there done that by this point)...so....I would plan on about an hour, depending upon your work speed. I tend to go kind of slow and carefull so I dont scratch or marr things...so others may do it faster?

No...never considered that one at all. (K&N)

Acura Jeff

Thanks for the quick response.

Is their a reason why you did not consider the K&N? I am not so sure about the difference in posted HP gains between the two units. I can see maybe 2-3 HP difference, but am struggling with 10HP or more.