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Took the Racecar to Acura of Portland to FINALLLLYY have the new 2007 Base ECU mated to the 2006 TL. Was able to lock the Hondata unit to the car and can now Tune it to the new heads/ Fuel system I will be installing. Tuning to E85 for more HP.
The Rotrex kit is being uninstalled Again due it its poor quality of craftsmanship. Heatsoak galore will ruin this engine in 1 day at the track. Dont fool youself into thinking your gonna have a fast car for more then one pull. You will also burn oil quickly with this Rotrex kit. Will be redesigned for the 2024 Season. Not enough time this season with the other mods planned.
Last edited by Acura TL Builder; 04-17-2023 at 08:09 PM.
Put Falken rt660s for the race car this season and I put them on the 2005 wheels. Yuck. So for $220, I got a mint set of 07-08 Wheels that weigh less and look better. Will swap the falkens and these used tires during the alignment process.
Racecar currently has Fresh Hawk 70s in the front, Hawk 60s in the Rear.
Last edited by Acura TL Builder; 04-17-2023 at 08:13 PM.
Got a massive wing to match the Front splitter. Will help in corners when coupled with the undertray/diffuser for suctioning the car to the asphalt. Need to weld a frame in the trunk to make this wing hold well.
Last edited by Acura TL Builder; 04-17-2023 at 08:26 PM.
Race Season 2023 has new suspension parts:
- K-Tuned Uppercontrol arms for 1.75 Degrees negative camber(Got these new from our very own @o4Komodo )
- Hardrace Lower Ball joints
- Hardened Caster adjustable 1.5+/- Degree Upper Ball joints
- Fastline Spherical Solid front compliance bushings
Still Running BC Race Struts, Would like to send them in and get them upgraded with the oil reservoirs.
Rear suspension is OEM. It already has 1-1.5 Degree negatice cammber and a bit ot toe in, good enough.
Coupled with the Hawk Brakes and Falkens the car should do better than 1:34/Lap @ PIR this year.
Last edited by Acura TL Builder; 04-17-2023 at 08:45 PM.
Side Note: Swapped a 52k mile JDM F23 engine because I drove mine under 3k rpm from 126k miles to 176k miles. There was so much carbom build up in the intake manifold, pistons and even the exhaust ports were completely carboned. Three of my plugs electrodes Melted off. Cat converter was cloggy as well.
My clutch was was fine, but I installed a new Luk clutch/Flywheel anyway. New engine mounts.
New engine: Swapped all the components(including Valve Cover)
Old engine: Look at the exhaust ports!
Did it where it sat. Took one weekend. If you think 90s Civics/Accords clutch hydraulics bleed like our TLs. They dont.
Wouldnt start at first, until I extended one of the Engine harness grounds and it fired right up. Felt so good.
Replaced the Master and Slave clutch cylinder with Luk quality because I had to constantly pump the clutch pedal to shift gears. This was not a pleasure to drive. Most important thing before bleeding the clutch is to adjust the Master Cylinder metal rods to neutral position. So important or you will replatrely wear your new master clutch cylinder & clutch.
Now it rides so nice. Good engine, Good shifting. No issues. Replacing driver side lateral Axle boot this week and the car should be maintainence free until 450k miles. I not, Ill do this again.
Last edited by Acura TL Builder; 04-17-2023 at 09:03 PM.
Glad to not be putting miles on the MRP Type-S. Been using it for the last 4 months. Took that time to replace the Radio which was draining the battery every 15 hours. New Oddysee Battery. Changed the Alternator because the oem one was reading 13.6Amps at idle(now back at 14.3amps). Maybe due to the battery drainage. Changed a couple engine seals. Maintenence for MRP Finished.
Welcome back.
In for more updates on the race car.
Funny I've had a f23a1 collecting dust in a pile of scrap for at least 6 yrs. It went 176k for the original owner with all original parts before I pulled it in favor of an H series. Which later was pulled in favor of a J series.
Lemme look & see if I can find it. You need to have a baseline to see what size pulley is making how lbs of boost, then you can go up from there. But from what I read on here, I believe 2.7in is the max pulley which supposedly makes 10lbs of boost, anything smaller than 2.7in you're overspinning the SC & losing performance. For me, the 2.7in pulley I have is only making 6lbs. of boost for me. I had a 2.4in pulley made for me to make 10lbs, but on the wall about installing it, I'm looking for longevity out of my TL.
hey bud by anychance do you have a source of where you got your pulleys from, im finding it hard to look for smaller pulleys with the correct amount of ribs
Season starting back up. When do you think your first track day would be?
I have a track day Aug 11 and Aug 15!
Took the Track TL with new tires/brakes and track alignment tuned specifically to Portland Int. Raceway as it has mostly right hand turns(which I prefer). Oh. My. I wish I took a video.
I will have videos of both track days. It will be a little faster this year. =)
On our way home from the canyon runs today, a new S650 maybach was trying to get away from us on the highway, We kept reeling him in every time. I know its heavy, but it was on inclined straights. You'd think a v12 twin turbo would get away.
Welcome back.
In for more updates on the race car.
Funny I've had a f23a1 collecting dust in a pile of scrap for at least 6 yrs. It went 176k for the original owner with all original parts before I pulled it in favor of an H series. Which later was pulled in favor of a J series.
I’m running comptech so I believe those are the m62
If you have not already seen it, here is a keyed m62 3.0" 6 groove pulley from pulley boys. Comptech 6 Groove 3.0" Keyed Pulley (pulleyboys.com)
Maybe you can contact them to see if it's possible to make a smaller one for the right $$$?
One would think since they make this one, all that would need to be done is down scale the machining method for a smaller one?
I lowered the Track TL exactly 1” and now have 2 degrees +/- of negative camber.
When installing the hawk brakes a couple months ago I forgot to tighten the rear right brake caliper. I only noticed when I got into my neighborhood. Sounded odd when braking. I got another bolt from the junkyard and tightened them both. Checked all other brake bolts.
As I return to moss I have done in the past, like these coils, I realize how much learning has happened in that time. Each revisit seems to enhance or perfect the previous mod as the height measurements were not quite perfect before.
Last edited by Acura TL Builder; 07-16-2023 at 09:36 PM.
Visited the Portland PicknPull to get the second ABS sensor to replace the ones I cut to the base thinking they were TPMS sensors. The front right sensor that I needed was So difficult to remove it broke. This was a blessing in de-skys asI had to go to the locate 20 more miles away.
This Sherwood location was so professional and kept up. Both TLs in the yard smelled good inside and were well maintained before being in an accident. I was impressed, also that it’s been 1 month in the yard and no one had yet taken the ASPEC side skirts. One was in bad shape, but I found that 3M has a plastic sandable quick drying adhesive that will fix this set and be a good addition to the track car.
A bad crack, but fixable. These are made in Japan and OEM. I have two other Aspec side skirt sets In storage waiting to go onto the pristine MRP and NBP TLs in the future.
I am excited to now have a complete 04-06 Aspec set for the track car! Only need two 07-08 rear lips to complete the other two.
Need to someday get a set for the M90 TL, but that car has multiple stages of morphing before I get anywhere near the cosmetic stage.
After swapping the 176k still running perfect dry as a bone engine with a JDM 56k mile engine. Driving around, I noticed it was leaking from the almost every almost every place.
After changing all the seals besides the front crank seal it now doesn’t smell like oil dripping onto the exhaust as I drive through traffic. It was even worse when by mistake the larger VTEC fuel injectors were not swapped out for the original DX non-vtec. Running so rich.
Front crank seal will be changed when timing belt/water pump is changed(waiting in the wings) I
That picture is the JDM VTEC solenoid I exchanged for the block off plate from the DX head. Man that lower bolt was a pain to remove!
At this point, everything mechanical in the engine bay have been replaced(or waiting in storage for replacement).
At one point 4 weeks ago, sitting in traffic on my way home with the car giving me a headache from the fierce stench of exhaust burned oil and having a 1/2 mile gap between me and the cars behind me. I muttered to myself, “I hate this car”.
Now that it’s all fixed I won’t sell it and get a 3g TL daily as intended. I can always buy a daily TL, but finding a pristine body 1998 Accord with All maintenance completed and a 50k mile motor is rare.
When I first looked at the picture below, I thought, why does Acura TL Builder have 'red bud' on his cabin filter.
So, you sourced all the components to manual swap the M90?
That would be something to follow, since this forum is starting to resemble a
I drive the SUV through a pot field to get it stoned :P
Yes, I reluctantly traded my Comptech S/C for the swap kit. I shouldn’t have done it, but had some red bud before someone messaged me out of the blue and pitched the idea. I could have bought a whole 6MT off Copart.com/iaai.com for $1000 and had every part I needed, but’that’s okay.
Took a couple hours today to organize the garage. I will need every inch of space when late fall/Winter arrives. I plan to build a j35a8 engine with everything done to it like the black type-s. I wanted to install it on the m90 as I 6MT swap it, but the M90 will once again come out when it’s ready to be Mid-Engined.
The old Accord engine will be harvested for Honda bolts and will be raked to a metal recycling plant. Loading into the suv will be easier once it’s in parts.
After some organizing the ported heads are on the self and ready for assembly. I will use all the aftermarket parts from my 1000whp J32a2 heads that mike spent over 100 hours painstakingly porting and Polishing. I will someday use these heads but need to have some work done at a machine shop to get them just right.
The garage is ready for an engine build and tranny system swap!
I drive the SUV through a pot field to get it stoned :P
Yes, I reluctantly traded my Comptech S/C for the swap kit. I shouldn’t have done it, but had some red bud before someone messaged me out of the blue and pitched the idea. I could have bought a whole 6MT off Copart.com/iaai.com for $1000 and had every part I needed, but’that’s okay.
Ya, I plan be begin the swap in a few months.
It is so difficult to find one in a complete kit, though!
On the other hand, the idea of hearing / observing a first through third pull of an M90 6MT sounds appealing.
It is so difficult to find one in a complete kit, though!
On the other hand, the idea of hearing / observing a first through third pull of an M90 6MT sounds appealing.
Thats what I have been telling my brother!! "Broseph, It sounds nice now, but its an opera ariya with a 6mt".
I have looked through the kit and minimally speaking, its complete. I dont have the 6MT ABS module/brake booster/Gauge cluster or the 6mt thicker rear sway bar, but the primary components are there. Im excited to find out when that stage of the car begins. This is also going to be a dedicated track car, so im not worried about having everything be perfect yet. Though I am not removing weight as hardcore as the main silver bullet as I will be putting some of the interior back in when the Mid-engine stage is complete.
My main concern with this stage is the missing mount that the clutch pedal goes onto. I will source it when the time comes.
We have:
- Clutch/brake pedal
- Tranny and axles
- Clutch/flywheel
- Shifter and Shifter cables
- Engine and dash electrical harness
- Stoptech 6MT Brakes/Type-S knuckles
May be easier to get a totaled 6mt off copart to harvest the rest of the parts. Though these stages must go onto this car as this is my first one that I have owned for nearly 10 years.
Ecu will be reprogrammed to 6MT at dealership.
As far as the comptech is concerned, when I purchase another 6MT to daily drive, I will build the comptech m90. The mp62 is nice, but its not enough psi without overheating and lacking airflow after vtec kicks in(yo). Its as if at the top end the engine would try to take in more air and the comptech would limit it. I do miss it though as it was a nice piece of TL history..
My main concern with this stage is the missing mount that the clutch pedal goes onto. I will source it when the time comes.
Is this 'missing mount' part of the metal structure of the body or is it on the diagram below?
Originally Posted by Acura TL Builder
As far as the comptech is concerned, when I purchase another 6MT to daily drive, I will build the comptech m90.
If you have not already seen it, here is the update from your M90 thread from 04Komodo:
Originally Posted by o4Komodo
Bump to this.
Finally bothered comparing the CT to the M90. The difference in sizing isn't too bad BUT the M90 is overall longer... and the inlet points outward. This causes an issue here.
You'd need to cut the inlet off and fabricate an elbow (just like the CT). I deemed it not worth pursuing with the Gen5 M90 and gave up on that.
The Ford M90 is favorable as the inlet is top side. The Ford M90 that TL Builder posted is also favorable as it's a smaller M90. And there are even some M112s that are not too much larger that have the inlet above (not on top) as well. The M112 would be more favorable as the M112 is way more suitable for these motors.
I also found a Jaguar M112 that may be favorable in size and inlet direction.
Is this 'missing mount' part of the metal structure of the body or is it on the diagram below?
If you have not already seen it, here is the update from your M90 thread from 04Komodo:
The clutch pedal is complete, it’s the bracket that is part of the chassis that I need.
Good to here that Magnuson MP90 will be an easier fit onto the Comptech snout. What makes this all easier is that I now have all the components to Tig weld anything I need. That have been a hinderance in my advancement of multiple stages on the cars.
The clutch pedal is complete, it’s the bracket that is part of the chassis that I need.
I wonder if the factory auto TL area looks similar to below?
Factory e-brake firewall mount area (auto CL-S) used to attach the CL-S6 CMC / clutch pedal assembly before removal:
After removal with holes drilled to accept CL-S6 CMC / clutch pedal assembly:
What the factory CL-S6 firewall CMC / clutch pedal assembly mount looks like:
I wonder if the factory auto TL area looks similar to below?
Factory e-brake firewall mount area (auto CL-S) used to attach the CL-S6 CMC / clutch pedal assembly before removal:
After removal with holes drilled to accept CL-S6 CMC / clutch pedal assembly:
What the factory CL-S6 firewall CMC / clutch pedal assembly mount looks like:
Thank you Zeta! Hopefully it is as easy as on the CL-S.
There are some function losses like memory seats, but I won’t be using those and can still use the toggles on the seat itself if need be. Though a racing seat will be installed after the swap is completed and the gremlins are worked out.
I also have the clutch slave cylinder, tubing and master clutch cylinder for the swap.
I got a an Auto KBP Type-S with 183k miles from the insurance auction for $4300. Light damage 9! Trunk and rear bumper. It has aspec front rear lip(rear lip I damaged from accident. It’s a rebuilt title and I’m stoked to have it the the new daily to replace my 1998 Honda Accord! Five TLs now
I am building a second engine and transmission this winter on my first TL(ASM 2008 auto 183k miles). The transmission is rebuilt and ready. You can see the complete build guide on my YouTube page “Acura TL Builder”.
The engines rotating assembly is back from the machinist and everything is ready to be assembled. The heads are fully built and PnP’d, though I will have to remove the valves to scratch the port ends to get the fuel to stay atomized.
Took it off and my Brother and I used heat guns to heat the bumper up and realigned it.
Its not fixed, but is now presentable enough to putter to work and back.
interior is very clean now. Shampooed the carpets, cleaned door jams removed all seats. Exterior is clean.. no fades or damage, dings, rock chips except for the damage from the accident. Dash isn’t cracked.
If you want a TL, buy it from PNW. No rust, even 50 years later. No dash cracks due to mostly
mild weather.
04-17-2023, 08:03 PM
