Acura TL Builder's Ultimate Boost Thread

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Old 07-05-2020, 08:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Saving4aTL
I was able to squeeze out 329whp on my Comptech with a Stock exhaust(minus cats). With a manua l tranny, that number would be 359whp on 5psi on a Comptech with no cooling! 40-60whp gains were 2018 figures.

Times have changed and you proved it on your own Comptech a number of weeks ago with a record 334whp!!

The Comptech Roots superchargers is the Most reliable boost you can have! There are several ways to cool the charge if it fits your fancy, but there isn’t the need.

No Rotrex S/C will ever hit 850whp on a 2004-2008 Acura TL/TL-S.
Nope, but a turbo might. I wonder how halferland is doing on his build, he seemed to be in the stages of "I blew stock rods at 600, lemmie rebuild and push this shit" about 3 months ago.
Old 07-05-2020, 08:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Saving4aTL
To remove the cap from the transmission, you must into the black cap held by x2 10mm bolt and use pliers to undo the spring clip and listen for the gears to make a “shuffle” sound. Then remove all the 12mm bolts, that have springs in said bolts with ball bearings that will drop to the surface of the tranny as you remove each one. These sounds are normal. Also remove the filter shield and the Vehicle Speed sensor(VSS), I didn’t remove mine and bent it resulting in needing a new one.
Having a manual helps when you're doing things inside the cases, engine case, fuse case, transmission case, etc. Thanks for summing up those 4 pages so well!
Old 07-06-2020, 08:43 AM
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Thanks for sending me to ManualLib.com. I’ve been doing all my work without a manual this entire time, thinking it wasn’t available to the public.

Why are people asking basic question when doing their builds when the complete service manual goes over every part of assembly/disassembly, names/diagrams, and tolerance specs?

One could easily build an engine or rebuild an auto transmission with it.
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Old 07-07-2020, 09:03 PM
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My brother messages me today asking if he buys an EBay turbo if I’ll install it.




Think it’ll work?
Old 07-07-2020, 09:19 PM
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Does he or you have an exhaust manifold in mind to connect the turbo?
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Old 07-07-2020, 09:32 PM
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Yes, I will develop one for him! This way I can practice on his Type-S 5AT before I do mine

Not sure why someone has not yet developed one, Slickfab, P2R, Halferland. Halferland would only need to replicate his build and sell them.

Yes, it’s that easy. I believe that is what’s stopping most J enthusiasts from turbo.
Old 07-07-2020, 09:38 PM
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He would need an intercooler that has the outlet and inlet in on side. This is because the inlet of the intake manifold and the turbo itself is on the drivers side of the engine bay.
Old 07-08-2020, 08:37 AM
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Was doing 59 in a 60MPH zone on the slow lane as usual and this flew by. I screamed TLLLLLLLLLSKIIIIIIII in my normal fashion, but then noticed a new style type S badge and thought, that’s not a “type-s, type-s, type-s”!

Looks very clean!
Old 07-08-2020, 09:02 PM
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So much fun!

Beginning of the disassembly.

Supercharger off!

I took apart the cooler plate to have it modified to have more airflow.

Look at that beautiful plate!

Many little shavings that came off of the S/C got stuck in the intake manifold. The rest went through the engine? :0
Old 07-08-2020, 09:29 PM
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It wasn’t the needle bearings that failed like originally thought. It was one of the bearings on the rotor module. The supercharger oil was fresh yet cloudy, like the seal on a bearing failed. One reason for this is by overfilling the S/C oil reservoir with oil... I put in 230ml. This was from a couple google searches. I’ll call Eaton to get the official quantity.

It’s great that the failure happened where it did. To recover this S/C case, one must one shave the high spots and put in my back up rotor module.

Look at all that melted aluminum! :0

These rotors are toast. They have deep chips in them and on bad bearing.

On rotor is in perfect shape, only one was affected.


The right side is healthy wear, left side is aweful with melted aluminum.

Current state of the engine bay! I post these pics because my failures and mistakes may help someone avoid them. There is a certain humility in admitting mistakes. The path to success is made of mostly failures. This is only one stepping stone to great things to come.
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Old 07-11-2020, 08:04 PM
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DIY Injector cleaning! Never waste your money in it again. Some may say, “But they tell you how bad it was and how good it is after”,
they tell you if it’s broken or not.”

Save the sheets for the dyno, and if it’s broken, you’ll know by the lack of flow when it’s given electricity.

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Old 07-11-2020, 09:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Saving4aTL
DIY Injector cleaning! Never waste your money in it again. Some may say, “But they tell you how bad it was and how good it is after”,
they tell you if it’s broken or not.”

Save the sheets for the dyno, and if it’s broken, you’ll know by the lack of flow when it’s given electricity.

https://youtu.be/-otVIWlxWFo
If you get some B12 chemtool in a bucket/tar&grease remover, and put a piece of tubing upwards zip tied to something on the bench, you can do this solo. Tubing holds a reservoir of fluid above the injector, and you're free to mess with the electronics. B12 is by far the strongest cleaner ive seen. Also if you want to CC the injectors free of shop, get your tubing, attach it to something bigger like a 2L or windshield fluid gallon, whatever, measure out your CCs for say 5 minutes of flow, and let the injector run. Time it and calculate backwards, viola you've CC'd your injector. Do with fuel for before/after glory with none of the cost. Or just understand this is the same thing the injector cleaners do, get the B12, and run it in a loop for 20 minutes (literally just loop the tubing, injector isnt strong enough to bring it back up to top, but you tilt the injector every minute or 2, less often if you have more fluid) or upgrade the damn things!
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Old 07-12-2020, 06:09 AM
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That’s a great idea man! I always thought it was a hassle to send the injectors out.
Old 07-12-2020, 07:32 PM
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Had my intercooler plate openings enlarged to fit the intake manifold opening as well as the supercharger opening. Ty is will lessen restriction.

You can see a bit of what they looked like before porting.

Put the rubber seals back on carefully.

Lookin’ good!
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Old 07-12-2020, 07:44 PM
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My brother came over to change his first serpentine belt. He is interested in a forced induction system. Wanted Rotrex until I told him he would lose his air con. Now he wants turbo as he doesn’t like the sound of the roots style whine. When I told him I’ll develop the Comptech MP90 and he would save a lot of money he seemed to love the Roots whine..

Finished the fuel system install!

P2R fuel rails, Aeromotive girl regulator, DW400 fuel pump, -8an fuel line, -6an return line.
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Old 07-12-2020, 07:48 PM
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TL Type-S still sleeps. I promise she will be 1000whp someday.
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Old 07-13-2020, 01:54 PM
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It seems OBX racing sells(sold) a complete turbo exhaust and down pipe for the J series.

It seems like it wouldn’t suite high horsepower, but I could have my welder guy create the same setup but in a larger size.

I will purchase either a Borg Warner or a Precision Turbo. These are about 2/2.5k each, so I’m going to have to start saving.

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Old 07-14-2020, 08:07 PM
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J37 throttlebody came in from my buddy at Acura. He’s flying to California tomorrow to pick up his MRP TL-S 6MT! Bet he’ll sell his 5AT within 12 weeks! The J35 TB was set inside the J37 TB, and what a difference!! More flow and cooler temps will come of this. Cooler temps because of the lack of bottle neck. This will ease the strain on the M90 pulling air in, and thus the engine.
Old 07-18-2020, 06:33 PM
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Got a couple semis to deliver Acura Goods!
Old 07-18-2020, 06:50 PM
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Weighed the 89mm J35 English Racing Spec today! x5 pistons were 372g, x1 piston was 371g. All six wrist pins were 137g. These are going into my 1000hp build. I will have to build a connecting rod weighing scale Contraption you accurately calculate the weights of the small and large side. This is done to have balance with higher than standard RPMs in a built motor.
Old 07-18-2020, 06:55 PM
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Thank you to @oraclem20 for the idea to cut into my flowways to increase airflow in the M90 intake manifold.

What do you guys think?
Old 07-18-2020, 08:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Saving4aTL



Thank you to @oraclem20 for the idea to cut into my flowways to increase airflow in the M90 intake manifold.

What do you guys think?
This is a massive change in airflow motion mgmt. It could be very beneficial, it could be detrimental, or it could be meh.

Even with forced induction air still obeys the laws of physics and thermodynamics, meaning it still needs passages of tuned length & cross section area to encourage efficient flow and avoid stagnation or reversion. Looking down into these new holes, it seems that air now has multiple paths - down, outwards, and back inwards from the out. I'm a little leery of this - you may end up with deadlocked spots surrounding a center flow area.

At this point, why not have your machinist buddy make a simple solid block with 6 holes that replaces the entire NA upper manifold?
Old 07-18-2020, 09:14 PM
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My machinist mentioned that a few times, but I told him I was on a time crunch. Let’s see if it makes looses power?

This intake was not designed for boost coming from above. There is only four jagged port holes and one tiny slit. That leads to not enough airflow no matter how smooth the channels are.

The air flow coming from the top also forces the limited/narrow passages to smash off of the ends of the intake and do a direct 180 degree turn into the runners. This creates massive turbulence in already limited flow passages.

This opening up of the ports will greatly improve airflow on multiple levels.

The proof will be in the Dynosheet, said @gerzand, never.
Old 07-19-2020, 09:30 AM
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Catzillski,
I’ve been doing more thinking about you mentioning the turbulence cutting into the manifold will cause. But there was already much turbulence from the airflow coming from up top and not enough space for the airflow to get into the runners. The approach of having flow from the top isn’t ideal without creating a custom manifold that jets the air directly into the cylinders, but it should be enough to get an idea of what the supercharger can produce at 9psi. I believe the Type-S TB and the inefficient/turbulent airflow created extra heat within the supercharger.

Staying at 6-7.3k RPM for extended periods of time with the M90 sucking through a straw aswell as airflow that isn’t able to make it into the cylinders created excess heat within the S/C also due to a backflow
of air that wasn’t able to be inbibed by the engine. This is just a hypothesis.
Old 07-19-2020, 10:53 AM
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It's all hypothesis as we lack the resources to perform instrumented testing of air pressures & temperatures at multiple points between the compressor outlet and intake valves. The best thing we (the royal we of DIY hot rodders) can do is examine existing OEM supercharger intake systems designed by engineers who had those resources.

I haven't seen many up close but I once had a long-snout M90 off a GM FWD V6 (was planning to stick it on a '94 BMW 325i coupe but it was way too long: if I put the inlet against the firewall the pulley was into the radiator LOL so I sold it to a Pontac Gran Prix guy). The intake manifold was essentially a flat hollow slab with 1 big inlet in the top and 6 small rectangular port outlets into the heads, plus some coolant passages running through the walls. No side plenums, crossover paths, or trumpets like the J-series NA manifold. Simple and effective.

Keep in mind that turbulence can be extremely beneficial if it is not allowed to impede velocity, as "swirl" at the intake valve greatly enhances homogeneuos fuel-air mixing which is vital to complete combustion. What we have to fear here is bad turbulence in the manifold that would impede flow.

As you haven't closed off the passages that lead out to the side plenums where air makes the 180 turns into the trumpets, the compressor will be forcing air into them as well as your new cuts into the upper trumpet bends. That's the unknown: at these cuts, will the pressure waves that do make it through the outer plenums & 180 into the trumpet mouths impede or assist the pressure waves coming directly down into the cuts?

I'm envisioning a hollow brick that bolts to the lower runners and the charge cooler plate. This single chamber would simply be always pressurized with cooled PSI, so each intake valve opening gets nothing but positive pressure ramming air into the combustion chamber - no unknowns. I bet your guy can do it easily.




Old 07-19-2020, 10:54 PM
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Would have been cool to see a 94 325 with an M90.

There was a lot of turbulence in the Intake mani before the porting. But I believe it was all the back pressure at high RPM that may have ruined the M90.

The car needs to breathe, this mod is helping it. There is a better way to go about it. But I’ll look into it after this tune.

Spent all day buttoning up the car. Uploaded the basetune I was given, but it didn’t start. I don’t think there’s enough fuel pressure. I’ll post some picks tomorrow.
Old 07-20-2020, 01:47 PM
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PnP’d the ZDX TB!

Got the inside to 72mm!

I was able to fit the tip of the Type-S inlet into the ZDX outlet.

Not bad! Just have to be careful not to port under the resting position of the round gold TB plate.

Ported and smoothed our the inside of the M90 intake manifold to reduce turbulance. This will definitely be better than before.
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Old 07-20-2020, 03:39 PM
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That throttle body is looking super thin, Can't wait to see the results you get.
Old 07-21-2020, 08:30 AM
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It won’t crack or collapse unless dropped or hit with a hammer. 🔨

Thanks man, I’m hoping for more than 351whp.
Old 07-21-2020, 08:38 AM
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When I was reinstalling the intake manifold, I realized the IM made contact with the P2R fuel rails. I then remembered that to get it to fit I had to use a P2R or MDX intake manifold spacer. This meant that I couldn’t use the stock bolts/nuts to install the intake manifold. It also meant I needed to buy another custom belt from Vatozone that had 1” more length. Fit like a glove after spending $36.99.

To install the intake mani I used the bolts for the supercharger. These bolts I purchased from Ace hardware to fit the M90 to the custom adaptor plate. I used a caliper to measure these bolts and a dremel/pneumatic tool to shave the bolts down to size.

One of the bolts was too long so to make it fit I used a spacer and a washer. Since there isn’t any heavy airflow here it seemed fine to do. I also removed the two bolts and pipe in the EGR area to reduce weight since I now have the EGR delete. Whatchu fellas think?
Old 07-21-2020, 10:12 AM
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Since it looks like you have the IM modified & sorted, how is the repair of the M90 itself progressing?
Old 07-21-2020, 03:00 PM
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Last Saturday I cleaned the grim off my other set of rotors and sanded down the cold welded raised part
from the previous pics. I shaved until it spin freely. Though I checked upside down.

When I installed the M90 I spin it by hand and it still caught, but just barely. I figured send it. The new rotors and sanding got it very close. It didn’t seem to lose boost even with the old rotors, so it should be fine.
Old 07-21-2020, 03:09 PM
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Got the adaptor plate bolts torqued the a mighty 8.7ft/lbs. After what this car has been through with this S/C, I can’t safely say that these bolt with bolt recesses is more than enough to hold the S/C down. What’s most important to notice is how the adaptor plates current design stifles the already difficult breathing space if the manifold.

Cooling plate bolts in! Look at the spot in the area where the majority of the boost comes from. Why would there be soot? Perhaps not enough air going to all cylinders? So some of them pushed back?

Here are the bolts I forgot to use during the original M90 install.
Old 07-21-2020, 03:20 PM
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I want to show this pic again just to drive the point home. Look at how little space there currently is for air travel! I will have two notches made on the right side, and havent he left part of the plate be opened up as much as possible to alleviate the choking of air.

Imagine the manifold not being ported last weekend. That means that there are only three holes for all the air to go through. This may now even be building correct PSI or even getting air to all the cylinders. For low RPMs this is fine. But for sure the M90 issue happened because of a last of flow. Even with the current opening of the manifold. I still can’t sell a product so horribly underdeveloped! This manifold and adaptor plate need further porting and development!
Old 07-21-2020, 05:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Saving4aTL

Cooling plate bolts in! Look at the spot in the area where the majority of the boost comes from. Why would there be soot?Perhaps not enough air going to all cylinders? So some of them pushed back?
Just making noise here so I very well could be totally incorrect in my observation.

Could that 'soot' presence (it looks dry in the picture?) be normal residual SC'er oil, seeping past the seals at the gear end of the rotor shafts, mixing with the charged air and then depositing on the cooling fins as it's forced down?
Is there enough of it that you can get on your fingers to smell?
If it smells like SC'er oil that may help explain it.



You can see a parallel alignment of the medial soot deposit, on the cooling fins, that correlates in line (pretty much) with the area of the two pieces of the snout that bolt to the SC'er case and that's close to where the rotor shaft seals (at the gear end where it meets the oil reservoir) are.

I wonder if you could have "hosed off' that soot, just to clean it up a bit, and then reassembled your complete blower kit. That way if you suspect it (the soot deposit) was a result of some sort of 'push back' from the old unmodified IM, it (the soot deposit) may self correct (not be present or reduced) as a result of your new 'cut' IM modification the second time around? Get what I mean jellybean?

Good Luck!

Last edited by zeta; 07-21-2020 at 05:14 PM.
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Old 07-21-2020, 06:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Saving4aTL
On the other hand, maybe the residual 'soot' is a simple result of the oil used on the air filter?
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Old 07-21-2020, 07:42 PM
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It could have been S/C oil, but there was no oil on the rotors and I pulled out the 225ml I put in. When I fingered it, it seemed like like soot from combustion, not oil unfortunately.

I could have removed the spot, but was afraid to damage the fins. The intake cone is a cheapo ebay version that has no oil on it.

Old 07-21-2020, 08:05 PM
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Because of the spacer needed to clear the larger rails, the supercharger sits 1” taller than before. I was worried that the hood may not clear the original cuts, but it fit just right!

I still have to refill the heat exchanger with distilled water and plug the water pipes into the intercooler core.

I got an updated baseline from Aaron O’Neil to be able to drive the car to English Racing. But just like when I originally installed this fuel system into the Type-S along with the Rotrex. I was unable to get the car running due to not being clever enough to get the AFR to hold enough back pressure to allow fuel to be pushed through the injectors. It just keeps flowing into the return line when the engine turns over. Just like last time, Aaron will work his magic and get it working quickly.
Old 07-21-2020, 08:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Saving4aTL
It could have been S/C oil, but there was no oil on the rotors and I pulled out the 225ml I put in. When I fingered it, it seemed like like soot from combustion, not oil unfortunately.
That's what has me scratching my head. If it is soot from combustion, the residue coating the fins could be the result of combustion soot raising after the engine is turned off? How could it come up and coat the fins while the engine/blower is running?

Originally Posted by Saving4aTL
I could have removed the spot, but was afraid to damage the fins. The intake cone is a cheapo ebay version that has no oil on it.
I only mentioned that as a result of seeing horseshoez expressing how 'hi-flow' filters let through a lot more dirt and thought that might factor in here.

Last edited by zeta; 07-21-2020 at 08:12 PM.
Old 07-21-2020, 08:43 PM
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Ya, I’m puzzled as well. One thing is for sure, if there was good airflow, it would work very well. If you look at the 120-162mph video, you will hear when something happens about 140mph. Perhaps that happened at that time?

I bought a gallon on K&N oil and have x2 K&N filters cleaned and ready for the ZDX TB. Just gave my neighbor the TB to make an adaptor plate. This will be an option to buy for other people’s kits as each adaptor that is created then also has a CAD model for future reproduction.


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