Acura TL Builder's Ultimate Boost Thread

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Old 06-17-2020, 03:03 PM
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Just cruising the backroads. It was wet out so I took it easy.
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Old 06-17-2020, 03:04 PM
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This S/C is as loud or louder than my Comptech. Though having not intake pipe and out of the engine bay makes it louder.
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Old 06-17-2020, 03:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Catzilla
HP & TQ ain't easy. These SUV motors were not designed for this tomfoolery.

I bet the key is whatever is causing that break-up. Fuel + Air + Spark + Compression @ Timing is a simple equation but each component has 10,000 variables. The dyno trace shouts that something is wrong above a certain RPM but we don't know what. Spark blowdown? Port & polished intake runners wetting under boost, leaning the mix out? One coil vibrating loose? Fuel pump choking from voltage fluctuations? Hidden table in tuning maps turned off/on/backwards/upside down? Could be any one of a jizzbillion things.
Many with turbos get above 600 fairly easily.
Aaron O'Neal's 1000HP V6-Swapped Civic Hatch!
Many get above 800, and some above 1000.

This guy might break 500 hp if he finds what's holding him back, but there's no 300hp defect in the system. Also if any one of those things you listed were to happen the engine would blow up, not underperform, under 14psi.

It just seems like a supercharger isn't meant to get these cars that fast, with low displacement and high RPM. That's turbo territory, not SC, even if it is centrifugal. The C38-R may be getting up to 90,000 rpm, but there are turbos that are bigger displacement that go 2-3x that rpm, and can be attached in series for serious CFM at high boost.
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Old 06-17-2020, 03:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Saving4aTL
This S/C is as loud or louder than my Comptech. Though having not intake pipe and out of the engine bay makes it louder.
Thanks for the videos.

So I know it may be premature, since you are taking well deserved time to enjoy the 'fruits of your labor' and all with this M90 configuration; however, do you still have a plan to try and fit one (M90) under the hood using that new CT-E snout you recently procured? Or would it just be to much of a PIA?


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Old 06-17-2020, 05:53 PM
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Originally Posted by oraclem20
Many with turbos get above 600 fairly easily.
Aaron O'Neal's 1000HP V6-Swapped Civic Hatch!
Many get above 800, and some above 1000.

This guy might break 500 hp if he finds what's holding him back, but there's no 300hp defect in the system. Also if any one of those things you listed were to happen the engine would blow up, not underperform, under 14psi.

It just seems like a supercharger isn't meant to get these cars that fast, with low displacement and high RPM. That's turbo territory, not SC, even if it is centrifugal. The C38-R may be getting up to 90,000 rpm, but there are turbos that are bigger displacement that go 2-3x that rpm, and can be attached in series for serious CFM at high boost.

Aaron O’Neal is my Tuner. Literally down the street from my house.
Old 06-17-2020, 05:59 PM
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Old 06-17-2020, 06:53 PM
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That supercharger is sexy!

Weird looking on a TL with it popping out of the hood.
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Old 06-17-2020, 09:46 PM
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Originally Posted by zeta
Thanks for the videos.

So I know it may be premature, since you are taking well deserved time to enjoy the 'fruits of your labor' and all with this M90 configuration; however, do you still have a plan to try and fit one (M90) under the hood using that new CT-E snout you recently procured? Or would it just be to much of a PIA?
Zeta, it has been planned months ago! The MP90 and CT snout will be my “winter S/C” for the silver TL as they both blow 90CFMs.

The only real challenge will be mating the S/C to the snout. Thoughts?


Though before that starts I need to begin assembly of the Type-S engine and tranny, now that I have every single part needed to fire it up. I wanted get my feet wet with the Poor man’s S/C for the summer fun.

I should have the Type-S ready to start this Fall, realistically speaking. The port and polishing will take the majority of the time!
Old 06-18-2020, 08:33 AM
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So to finish this stage of the M90 Summer charger, I still have to:

- Wire the water cooler pump through the firewall and to an accessory Wire(cigarette lighter?).

- Install the rubber edging that Zeta recommended.

- Remove air bubbles from charger cooling system fluid.

- find a tee to tap into the engine radiator overflow reservoir tube and tee it to the heat exchanger(intercooler) this was it always replenishes fluids and I only need to fill the radiator reservoir.

- I just received a gallon of K&N air filter oil($30 on amazon), I’ve been soaking my two K&N filters over night. And will clean them tomorrow.


———————

Otherwise that stage is finished.

Next stage is:

- Installing a completely new fuel system.

- Porting and polishing the charger a bit more(hump that leads to the rotors).

- Porting the aluminum intake manifold directly into the runners.

- Retune scheduled for July 24.
Old 06-18-2020, 08:34 AM
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The Summer charger adaptor plate kit is underway!

I plan to have 8 sets of adaptor kits ready this fall.

The “V2” kits will far better than the one I made for myself.
Old 06-19-2020, 08:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Saving4aTL





Ohnoitspiter had his Rotrex kit dyno’d today and was left very disappointed. He had the Stage 3.5 kit, then bought the largest C38-R Rotrex unit, rebuilt his fuel system again, built his engine.

He has every supporting mod and then some. No expenses spared.


I would be heartbroken to make these numbers with a kit advertised to get 900-1000hp.
This is not from the "3.5" kit alone, you're failing to mention the whole story here. Piter decided to use Halferland cams. Others have made more power with lest boost without those cams. His tuner and Andy both advised him against using those cams.

The only difference between people who made good power and Piter is those cams, would explain why it was breaking up up top.

Last edited by mb.3g; 06-19-2020 at 08:25 AM.
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Old 06-19-2020, 11:07 AM
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Originally Posted by mdnborg
This is not from the "3.5" kit alone, you're failing to mention the whole story here. Piter decided to use Halferland cams. Others have made more power with lest boost without those cams. His tuner and Andy both advised him against using those cams.

The only difference between people who made good power and Piter is those cams, would explain why it was breaking up up top.
I thought he was using slickfab cams?
The Halferland cams always sounded problematic, too much overlap if I remember right from the discussions I had.
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Old 06-20-2020, 03:57 PM
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Originally Posted by mdnborg
This is not from the "3.5" kit alone, you're failing to mention the whole story here. Piter decided to use Halferland cams. Others have made more power with lest boost without those cams. His tuner and Andy both advised him against using those cams.

The only difference between people who made good power and Piter is those cams, would explain why it was breaking up up top.
Piters is the stage 4 kit. Was it Slickfab cams he was using?

I’m looking forward to what his engine will make after He installs stock cams.
Old 06-20-2020, 04:03 PM
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It’s cart drifting time!

Old 06-20-2020, 04:03 PM
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^or maybe even the RL cams? I would think there would be some gains to be had, but I’m not up on all the info. Just spittin’ to see if those would be better!?
Old 06-20-2020, 04:04 PM
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Not bad for a summer charger.

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Old 06-20-2020, 04:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Slpr04UA6
^or maybe even the RL cams? I would think there would be some gains to be had, but I’m not up on all the info. Just spittin’ to see if those would be better!?
I read on here that the RL and TL-S cams are identical except the RL core isn’t fully hollow like the TL-S cams. Though I’ve seen no proof of this.

The grind on TL-S and RL cams are the same so he wouldn’t see a difference. But RL cams are cheaper and more available.
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Old 06-20-2020, 04:09 PM
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"I paid for the whole speedometer I'm gonna use the whole speedometer"
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Old 06-20-2020, 04:12 PM
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Good to know @ Saving4atl! Didn’t know that!
Old 06-20-2020, 04:37 PM
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Btw

IG: Acura_TL_Builder
Old 06-21-2020, 07:39 AM
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Originally Posted by mdnborg
This is not from the "3.5" kit alone, you're failing to mention the whole story here. Piter decided to use Halferland cams. Others have made more power with lest boost without those cams. His tuner and Andy both advised him against using those cams.

The only difference between people who made good power and Piter is those cams, would explain why it was breaking up up top.
Originally Posted by Saving4aTL
Piters is the stage 4 kit. Was it Slickfab cams he was using?

I’m looking forward to what his engine will make after He installs stock cams.
Just my 2 cents and not starting any issues. The shop that did my dyno power pulls posted my TL on their social media. As expected, it spread to other pages. One of the pages, I saw he was saying a few things. I told him to not speak for ME since it's my vehicle and only I know what i've done to my TL. My numbers were in fact excellent for NOT being fully tuned and running on stock injectors with the stock fuel pump. Here's the issue when it comes to boosting the TL. People EXPECT high figure numbers. People are going to assume, if you're claiming to have a built engine and running 14 PSI, it's got to make 500+ HP. That's why I always tell people, DONT ASSUME numbers, put it on a dyno and get it on paper. In hindsight, I spent $4,800 on a new comptech supercharger, $2,350 on high flow pre-cats with ceramic coating, high flow 3rd cat, comptech catback exhaust and V2 J-pipe, another $600 for ported and polish intake runners and intake manifold, $150 for Ultra light weight pulley and another $100 to fabricate a custom intake. Maybe missing a few mis. things but that's it. I could spend another 2.5K to get injectors, fuel pump, hondata (everything to work for my 2004) and to have it tuned, for another maybe 25-30hp? Which will nearly put me at the same hp he makes on pump 91. A lot of people knock the comptech kit, but overall it's not a bad kit. The issue comes down to the lack of knowledge in the car community. Everyone assumes if you have Andy's kit you will be making over 400 hp without supporting mods right out of the box. They also assume the comptech supercharger is 5K for 50 hp, which my TL has also proven this to be completely wrong. Not to cause any issues, I have no problem with anyone running either kit. I only have issues when people start to shit on the numbers. At the end of the day, numbers are just numbers. I'm more than sure his TL feels great. I tip my hat off to those that go down the path of boosting the TL, because they already made that step that 95% won't do. I will say this also, Saving4aTL, by far you are only person that I know who is beyond dedicated to doing what you do. I love the drive you have behind you because I live through your work. It brings that passion back to me of what made me become a car guy. Same for you as well MDnborg. When someone brings up a boosted TL, your TL is the one i've seen most. You have also built something that is completely different and refreshing to see in the community. That required a lot of blood, sweat and tears and it shows.
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Old 06-21-2020, 08:48 AM
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Aww thanks Man! It is very nice to hear that others are energized and motivated by the build! It motivates me to know others enjoy seeing the progress.

Few understand that it takes so much more than installing a Comptech or Rotrex kit to get power out of our cars.

I commend MDNborg for his level of detail in his build. It’s one this to install something, it’s completely another to make it look like an OEM factory option.

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Old 06-21-2020, 08:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Saving4aTL
I read on here that the RL and TL-S cams are identical except the RL core isn’t fully hollow like the TL-S cams. Though I’ve seen no proof of this.

The grind on TL-S and RL cams are the same so he wouldn’t see a difference. But RL cams are cheaper and more available.
I've gotta find the source on this, but i'm remembering this not being true. There was a max lift difference on one of the lobes for the RL vs TL-S, and possibly a duration difference. Gotta find my sources, but I took a shot of it.... somewhere.
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Old 06-23-2020, 08:37 AM
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Wish I knew the differences, I may be picking up a set of RL cams for the silver car soon.
Old 06-23-2020, 08:38 AM
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Pertaining to Stages 3, 3.5, 4.



Old 06-25-2020, 02:07 PM
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Got Redline High-Temp ATF to replace the cheap stuff I put into the tranny last week to flush out the gunky fluid!
Old 06-27-2020, 10:47 AM
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Paid homage to the Acura Gods this morning.
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Old 06-27-2020, 10:49 AM
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Picked up rod and main bearings today. The mains will fit fine but not all the rod bearings will fit because I’m using Crower aftermarket rods.
Old 06-27-2020, 06:13 PM
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This pipe sends charged air from my Rotrex unit to my intercooler. It is only 2 1/4” inner diameter.
How will this bottle neck, sharp turns and heavy inner welds(which create a lot of turbulence) aid in producing the advertised 680whp for the Stage 3.5 Rotrex Kit?

The following pictures show that this narrow pipe is not welded straight. The angles force the this pipe to dig into the chassis and nearly rubbed a hole in only 2800 miles of driving. If it was driven on for more than 6-7k miles. I would have a boost leak. And need to have this repaired/replaced. There is ample room to fit even a 3” pipe if care was taken the angles were made correctly. Quick work for a quick buck. $7550 is quick bucks for some, not for others.

To make this poorly contrapted 2.25” pipe to fit, I had to put it 2.5” into the 3” inlet of the intercooler, which further limited the already overheated air.
Old 06-27-2020, 08:58 PM
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Having the GBP bumper painted in a few weeks. Need to sand down the raised bumps made during manufacturing. There are thin spots that need to be filled in for my own piece of mind. Then modifying it to make way for the piping and intercooler.

Bought this Bumped used from a TL enthusiast in Seattle for a good price.

Andy had a group buy recently and I tried to get another one, but he won’t reply to any attempts at communication.

Going to fit on nicely tomorrow!

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Old 06-27-2020, 10:22 PM
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Removing the fuel system that came with the Rotrex kit as I’m upgrading to a larger one for the Turbo system.

P2R fuel rails!

-8an fuel line with -6an return line and aeromotive fuel regulator with scratchy gauge on it.

DW450 fuel pump going into the M90 Summer Charger!

2 step colder plugs going in, currently running 1 step colder.

1300cc Bosch injectors going on the Silver TL as well.
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Old 06-30-2020, 01:18 AM
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Originally Posted by Saving4aTL
Wish I knew the differences, I may be picking up a set of RL cams for the silver car soon.
Found it in an old info collab between Aznboi and yugone's resources.
MDX=TLS + Hollow.
32a3 vtec lobe = RL vtec lobe > TLS/MDX vtec lobe
RL Intake lobe > MDX/TLS Intake lobe > 32a3 Intake lobe
RL/MDX/TLS exhaust lobe > 32a3 exhaust lobe

Source:https://www.v6performance.net/forums...-bisimoto.html

That being said, the MDX lobes are from 37a1, and produce more torque than other cams mid profile, with the same or less intake lobe height. This means they must have more duration. If you want to degree your RL cams before they go in the car, i'll degree my MDX cams and stock. I don't have TLS to compare however and don't plan to own them.
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Old 06-30-2020, 01:57 PM
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Thanks man!

So mdx J37A1 cams are hollow as as well?

We’re you able to find if RL cams are hollow/partially hollow like the 07-08 Type-S cams?
Old 06-30-2020, 03:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Saving4aTL
Thanks man!

So mdx J37A1 cams are hollow as as well?

We’re you able to find if RL cams are hollow/partially hollow like the 07-08 Type-S cams?
MDX are hollow, however RL and TLS is not.
The RL cams do have a benefit above having higher lobes however, in that if you want cams reground custom they can not be done on hollow cams. So you either must send 32a3 cams or RL to be welded then reground.

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Old 06-30-2020, 11:11 PM
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Where did you learn your info? Your very knowledgeable.
Old 07-01-2020, 08:38 AM
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Couldn’t get it off at first. oracleM20 helped me out. He’s very knowledgeable and resourceful. Thanks man!

Taking pics of what I remove to know it’s orientation during reassembly.

Got the tranny cap off!

Such a beautiful work of art!

This pic shows the four teeth of second gear that got striped when I shocked the tranny by up shifting hard and not pressing in the clutch all the way. It also didn’t help that my engine was superheated by the Rotrex system superheating the engine via overheated air and Convection! My tranny was much hotter than it was intended to be due to the poorly designed GBP Rotrex system. Second gear doesn’t break so easily under normal operating temps and only <400whp..
Old 07-01-2020, 08:40 AM
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The plan is to do the tranny, then the heads(plus PnP), the block, and then replace it into the Type-Ski.
Old 07-01-2020, 11:48 AM
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^
Just curious, are you going to replace the differential taper bearings while you are there?
They are only $42 each for the two different sizes.

https://www.acuraoemparts.com/v-2007...t-differential


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Old 07-01-2020, 01:28 PM
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I could, do you think there is benefit to doing so at 93k miles?
Old 07-01-2020, 01:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Saving4aTL
Where did you learn your info? Your very knowledgeable.
v6performance.net. You know how AZ has 98% people who bolt on and go and 2% who actually work on their cars? v6p is the opposite, we had like 2 dudes bolt and go, everyone else is testing parts, comparing notes, trying random mods, creating frankenstein engines, custom fabricating parts, etc.
Originally Posted by zeta
^
Just curious, are you going to replace the differential taper bearings while you are there?
They are only $42 each for the two different sizes.

https://www.acuraoemparts.com/v-2007...t-differential
Probably worth it, tapers wear out, bearings wear, it's a manual service item. Other than replacing the forks that'd be a good adder.
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