3.80 final drive
I see no reason why it would need to be "balanced".
1. It's a precision machined part which is already inherently balanced pretty good.
2. It's a small diameter.
3. It won't ever spin very fast.
A very resonable $200 from Liberty's Gears here in Michigan.
1. It's a precision machined part which is already inherently balanced pretty good.
2. It's a small diameter.
3. It won't ever spin very fast.
A very resonable $200 from Liberty's Gears here in Michigan.
You have the parts list right...
Countershaft
Ring gear/differential
Oil drive gear
Countershaft bearings
Probably a good idea to get new seals too.
It's hard to say exactly, but I think the FD is good for 3 tenths and 1.5-2mph. My best run previously at the same track (in conditions 1400 feet MORE below sea level) was 13.46 @106.66. That run corrected to something like 13.8 @103.8 whereas this run corrected to 13.44 @106.2.
This is impressive but I think we haven't seen it's full potential based on the corrections you mentioned. Under similar conditions, this might be a 110mph car. Does 110mph mean an extra shift or can you stretch it out a little more?
I imagine on the street it has to be a lot more fun and with less chance of being caught "in between" gears and out of the powerband.
I imagine on the street it has to be a lot more fun and with less chance of being caught "in between" gears and out of the powerband.
This is impressive but I think we haven't seen it's full potential based on the corrections you mentioned. Under similar conditions, this might be a 110mph car. Does 110mph mean an extra shift or can you stretch it out a little more?
I imagine on the street it has to be a lot more fun and with less chance of being caught "in between" gears and out of the powerband.
I imagine on the street it has to be a lot more fun and with less chance of being caught "in between" gears and out of the powerband.
The car is so much more fun to drive around town. The low end is much improved due to the higher torque multiplication and it's much more difficult to catch me outside the powerband
Sounded nice though.Oh btw, 4th gear stretches to 115+ so 110 wouldn't be a problem. Although I can't imagine trapping that high in somewhat normal conditions unless I added more mods and/or took significant weight out of the car.
Last edited by Sonnick; Dec 17, 2014 at 12:44 PM.
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Suzuka Master
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From: 633 Stag Trail Rd
Do it up. My 21 lb Braille, F14s with Conti DW, back seat removed and stripped trunk liners is good for 120lbs. That's in addition to the 36 lbs of the spare/jack/tools. Accord should be similar. That'll show another mph easily, and the seat and trunk liners can be put back in less than half an hour. Add some mild cams and I'm confident you'll see 110 mph in the same conditions.
Last edited by anx1300c; Dec 17, 2014 at 10:31 PM.
Only one way to find out
What are your mods?
Tyler: I'd love to take some weight out but it's my daily and I enjoy all the comforts it comes with lol. Mayyyyyybe one day I will take the back seats out, but that's probably only ~50lbs. Plus I'm going to need a 4dr soon
Tyler: I'd love to take some weight out but it's my daily and I enjoy all the comforts it comes with lol. Mayyyyyybe one day I will take the back seats out, but that's probably only ~50lbs. Plus I'm going to need a 4dr soon
Spare tire and jack will erase ~35lbs. Get a air compressor, tire plug and jumper cable road emergency kit, will weigh ~5-8lbs.
~17-22lbs battery another ~15-20lbs off vs OEM battery.
Lightweight flywheel and pulley will shave off another ~20lbs.
Front and rear bumpers another ~20-30lbs.
Creature comforts left intact
~17-22lbs battery another ~15-20lbs off vs OEM battery.
Lightweight flywheel and pulley will shave off another ~20lbs.
Front and rear bumpers another ~20-30lbs.
Creature comforts left intact
Last edited by FamilyGuy; Dec 18, 2014 at 08:55 AM.
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Suzuka Master
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From: 633 Stag Trail Rd
Think he already has a LW flywheel. I believe the bumpers weigh 35lbs combined. I was going to ditch them myself, but then I ended up getting rear ended at a red light. Car stopped behind me decided to go before I did, basically. That made me change my mind. No damage, but there would have been if I didn't have the bumper.
No track til spring... Everything is closed
Dam sonnick your car is getting fast.
Today was my first day at the track since my 6speed swap.
My clutch aint broken it yet but I was only running 8.4's mid to high 86mph in the 1/8 while doing consistant high 1.8 60ft's on the motor.
something was not adding up for me.
Mine ran 8.3 @87+ on the motor when it had the Auto trans.
Today was my first day at the track since my 6speed swap.
My clutch aint broken it yet but I was only running 8.4's mid to high 86mph in the 1/8 while doing consistant high 1.8 60ft's on the motor.
something was not adding up for me.
Mine ran 8.3 @87+ on the motor when it had the Auto trans.
Last edited by richardparker; May 17, 2015 at 08:09 PM.
Dam sonnick your car is getting fast.
Today was my first day at the track since my 6speed swap.
My clutch aint broken it yet but I was only running 8.4's mid to high 86mph in the 1/8 while doing consistant high 1.8 60ft's on the motor.
something was not adding up for me.
Mine ran 8.3 @87+ on the motor when it had the Auto trans.
Today was my first day at the track since my 6speed swap.
My clutch aint broken it yet but I was only running 8.4's mid to high 86mph in the 1/8 while doing consistant high 1.8 60ft's on the motor.
something was not adding up for me.
Mine ran 8.3 @87+ on the motor when it had the Auto trans.
Thread Starter
Suzuka Master
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Wheres the cheapest to get a 3.80 set ?
I want to pay threw PP using my bank not a CC.
Talked to Motorworks and using my bank threw PP Its going to cost about 1300 shipped witch I think is high as hell.
Any options out there ?
I want to pay threw PP using my bank not a CC.
Talked to Motorworks and using my bank threw PP Its going to cost about 1300 shipped witch I think is high as hell.
Any options out there ?
Unless you are revving higher, it's not worth it. 3.55 from the 8 and 9G 6-6 would be perfect for you. I am revving to 7400 and it's great, but it's too short for the stock redline, especially for your 3.7. You will shift to 5th, ask Simione.
I'm right on the limiter in 3rd at the lights on the motor.
So I should only have to see 4th i'm thinking. Spraying should be fun.
I'm looking into tuning too soon.
Anyway I got his so called last set on the way.
Any 7th gen Accord owners interested in a package with a 3.55 gear and an LSD? I'm a 9th gen owner with the 3.55 and I'm on the cusp of convincing MFactory to build an LSD on our application.
This benefits 7th gen owners because you can just use the LSD and bolt it straight to a 3.55 gear and install it into your trans!
This benefits 7th gen owners because you can just use the LSD and bolt it straight to a 3.55 gear and install it into your trans!
Thread Starter
Suzuka Master
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Joined: Feb 2008
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From: 633 Stag Trail Rd
Whatever happened to MFactory making 3.80's or 3.94's for $700-800? I'd be in, pending finding a competant, relatively local installer. I personally wouldn't do the 3.55's as I don't think there would be enough gain to justify the overall price, once install is factored in. I'm guessing $800-1000 to install, and might as well add another $1,050 for an Xcelerate clutch/lw flywheel while they're in there. Ouch.
Originally Posted by J32A1
Any 7th gen Accord owners interested in a package with a 3.55 gear and an LSD? I'm a 9th gen owner with the 3.55 and I'm on the cusp of convincing MFactory to build an LSD on our application.
This benefits 7th gen owners because you can just use the LSD and bolt it straight to a 3.55 gear and install it into your trans!
This benefits 7th gen owners because you can just use the LSD and bolt it straight to a 3.55 gear and install it into your trans!
Anyone that has swapped from a TL Type S 3.284 final drive still have all of their parts? I'm looking to pick up a 3.285 FD and was hoping that someone that had made the jump to the 3.55 or the 3.842 still had their stock stuff. PM me or message back








