3.80 final drive
Not quite certain what fd is used, but the ring gear is drilled , and the pinion and the other smaller gear (tranny oil pump drive gear I think) All came in sealed honda packaging with the part number stickers taken off of them. Pretty sure all 3 parts came from the same vehicle.
I didn't realize it but the 2014 Accord V6 coupe has a 3.55 gear ratio. I think the 3.55 if usable would be even better, but probably not enough of a difference to justify.
Last edited by screaminz28; Jun 12, 2014 at 03:48 PM. Reason: more info found
Thread Starter
Suzuka Master
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From: 633 Stag Trail Rd
Very interesting. I wonder if this is a 3.94:1 from a 2014 automatic and they are just calling it 3.80 to obscure it is an OEM part?
I didn't realize it but the 2014 Accord V6 coupe has a 3.55 gear ratio. I think the 3.55 if usable would be even better, but probably not enough of a difference to justify.
I didn't realize it but the 2014 Accord V6 coupe has a 3.55 gear ratio. I think the 3.55 if usable would be even better, but probably not enough of a difference to justify.
Very interesting. I wonder if this is a 3.94:1 from a 2014 automatic and they are just calling it 3.80 to obscure it is an OEM part?
I didn't realize it but the 2014 Accord V6 coupe has a 3.55 gear ratio. I think the 3.55 if usable would be even better, but probably not enough of a difference to justify.
I didn't realize it but the 2014 Accord V6 coupe has a 3.55 gear ratio. I think the 3.55 if usable would be even better, but probably not enough of a difference to justify.
Currently, I am rolling on 18 inch oz superleggeras with 225/40/18 tires
I agree with that. Diameter is usually better for straight line traction - acceleration and braking. Wider does not give as much as a longer contact patch for braking and accelerating. Cornering is a different story.
Even more important is the compound. I would take a 215 drag radial over a 315 regular summer tire any day. The nice thing about a sticky compound on a narrow tire is they don't stand out to others.
I run my stock 3.42s but I've had to tailor my tire height to my rpms going through the traps. Changing sidewall height is a great way of fine tuning your gear ratios. The 3.80 will put you in the ballpark and the tires do the rest.
Even more important is the compound. I would take a 215 drag radial over a 315 regular summer tire any day. The nice thing about a sticky compound on a narrow tire is they don't stand out to others.
I run my stock 3.42s but I've had to tailor my tire height to my rpms going through the traps. Changing sidewall height is a great way of fine tuning your gear ratios. The 3.80 will put you in the ballpark and the tires do the rest.
I agree with that. Diameter is usually better for straight line traction - acceleration and braking. Wider does not give as much as a longer contact patch for braking and accelerating. Cornering is a different story.
Even more important is the compound. I would take a 215 drag radial over a 315 regular summer tire any day. The nice thing about a sticky compound on a narrow tire is they don't stand out to others.
I run my stock 3.42s but I've had to tailor my tire height to my rpms going through the traps. Changing sidewall height is a great way of fine tuning your gear ratios. The 3.80 will put you in the ballpark and the tires do the rest.
Even more important is the compound. I would take a 215 drag radial over a 315 regular summer tire any day. The nice thing about a sticky compound on a narrow tire is they don't stand out to others.
I run my stock 3.42s but I've had to tailor my tire height to my rpms going through the traps. Changing sidewall height is a great way of fine tuning your gear ratios. The 3.80 will put you in the ballpark and the tires do the rest.
Thread Starter
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Feb 2008
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Likes: 933
From: 633 Stag Trail Rd
Too bad you're picking it up in the middle of this heatwave, Sonnick. Should keep you from beating on it too badly before the clutch is broken in though!
I am going to break it in properly. Not going to be easy though, especially considering the length of time I've been without 2nd gear. I will not shift hard for awhile. I most likely won't even punch it for 400-500 miles.
I'm almost positive I will NOT be retuned by then and I usually don't like racing when it's 90 degrees. Does nothing but disappoint. I will consider it though.
The most TORRENTIAL rain/lightning storm I've ever experienced just passed and HOLY SH!T it was nuts. If it weren't for that & me currently drinking a beer (perhaps 2), I'd make a video lol. Tomorrow night I will.
So the car feels great. The trans feels much more solid than the old one did. That's the best word to describe it. Each upshift is more solid than before without a doubt. The clutch is actually lighter than stock lol. Not sure how crazy I am about that, but I'm sure I will get used to it and it will become a non issue.
The combination of the LW Fly & FD is easily discernible. The car feels about 400lbs lighter and revs effortlessly. The shorter gearing is obvious, too. The speedo is off, but the RPMs don't lie. In 6th gear @ 1500 RPM it pulls. Obviously it doesn't PULL, but more than it ever has before at that engine speed. I can't WAIT until the clutch is broken in and I can actually hammer it. I will wait to reveal ALL of my thoughts once the clutch is broken in. Should take about a week.
So the car feels great. The trans feels much more solid than the old one did. That's the best word to describe it. Each upshift is more solid than before without a doubt. The clutch is actually lighter than stock lol. Not sure how crazy I am about that, but I'm sure I will get used to it and it will become a non issue.
The combination of the LW Fly & FD is easily discernible. The car feels about 400lbs lighter and revs effortlessly. The shorter gearing is obvious, too. The speedo is off, but the RPMs don't lie. In 6th gear @ 1500 RPM it pulls. Obviously it doesn't PULL, but more than it ever has before at that engine speed. I can't WAIT until the clutch is broken in and I can actually hammer it. I will wait to reveal ALL of my thoughts once the clutch is broken in. Should take about a week.
Isn't it better for clutch break in to hammer it in a lower numerical gear than to lug it and try to accelerate in a higher gear?






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