Good update!

Off topic; I assume the answer is yes, has everyone here done the clutch slave check valve removal? I went to hammer 1-2 and it slipped my clutch like a whore

 

Even in the 85+ degree weather yesterday and 500% humidity the car felt great.

Z28, I've heard both ways of breaking it in. I'd rather be safe than sorry, though.

 

heat scores are bad.
when switching gears, friction always takes place, as the clutch grabs.
hammering it in a lower gear will provide the most friction.
there is no clutch break in per se, but common sense dictates taking it easy for a few hundred miles.

 

http://www.stangtv.com/tech-stories/...in-procedures/

 

I would think stop and go traffic is the ultimate breakin. Assuming you can shift and that's obvious from your times, little wear occurs. Taking off is 10x and even more wear.

Me personally, I would be shifting nice and easy, flooring once the clutch is fully engaged, and doing a slow upshift and flooring it again. Unless it slips, there's no additional wear from going full throttle once it's engaged. The lower gears are nicer to the clutch too.

Looking forward to this one. How is first gear taking off from a light? Are you shifting halfway across the intersection or it it reasonably usable?

 

I am trying to take off with as little gas as possible as to not 'slip' the clutch too much. Same idea on shifts. I'd rather let the clutch out fully before 'slipping' it into the next gear.

I've been looking online and have seen seen mixed opinions about flooring it. Are you saying it's alright to punch it once fully engaged in gear? I just want to break the clutch in right so that it lasts.

In terms of 1st gear usability....I mean, it's definitely shorter. Before I know it the RPMs are between 3-4, but it's not something where I'm immediately shifting into 2nd. I will have a video of ~3k RPM shifting from 1-6 as soon as I can. The combination of the LW Flywheel & 3.80 FD makes driving effortless. The revs climb with ease and each small blip of the throttle is much more sensitive than before.

 

The whole thing sounds like a great combo. I think you will hit 12s with this.

Yeah, full throttle once the clutch is engaged is fine on the clutch since there's no slippage but I have no self control and I couldn't go 500 miles without punching it so that would be my relief during breakin. The gears are another story though. It's not a bad idea to take it easy for a while on them. A quick 2k-6k run every once in a while won't hurt but they do need to be driven nicely at first. Using a fluid with a good EP additive is usually good to run. Since it's just the final drive that's new (right?) I would take it easy in 1st and 2nd and (if you want to) start putting the pedal down in 3rd and up.

It sounds like you're doing everything right, especially taking off with as little throttle as possible. The clutch is very similar to the brakes, you'll quickly hit a point where the engagement is consistent and it grabs as good as it's going to get. This is usually under 100 miles of city driving but you have a ton of money into this thing so if 500 makes you feel better, definitely do it. If the 500 mile limit is for the gears then I completely agree.

It sounds like first isn't too short. You might be able to launch it at a slightly lower rpm at the track and reduce shock to the clutch and most of the transmission. I remember back in the day when the 5.0 Mustangs were nearly new, every single one had a timing bump, flowmasters, nitrous, and gears. Some of those guys would go crazy on the gearing where they would be shifting to second not even halfway across an intersection and hitting 3rd just after they crossed the other side. It never made any sense to me in a car that was traction limited in the first 4 gears that no human could shift quick enough from 1st to 2nd.

Again, don't listen to anything I say about break-in. While I'm confident 100 miles is way more than enough, it's your money and time and your way definitely won't hurt anything. If you wanted to punch it from time to time once the clutch is engaged just to get an idea of how it feels, that wouldn't hurt the clutch at all but gears are another story.

I wouldn't feel right if I didn't mention the oil one more time lol. I would definitely drain and fill the transmission after 100 miles. By then it's shed most of the metal it's going to shed and metal floating around in the oil is especially bad for the gears and open bearings. And I don't want to start a debate but stay away from Royal Purple in the gearbox. I won't mention it again because I don't want this to take off, off topic.

Last, don't be discouraged if your first runs at the track are slower with this setup, I've usually gone slower with a new setup at first until I get used to it, especially a mod that affects the launch and especially with a manual.

Ive rambled too much again. Good luck.

 

One more thing, a lower final drive is inherently weaker which might make break-in more important but final drive failures on these cars are practically non-existent, right? Load on the pinion (teeth) is greater so oil choice is important.

 

Thanks for your help! I will most likely take it easy for awhile. This will be a huge test of my will power lol. I need an oil change. I'm actually overdue so maybe I should wait until Saturday to drive the car. I was going to take it to my aunt's in PA tomorrow, but maybe that's not a great idea considering I am well over 3K since my last change.

 

What kind of oil are you running?? Even the lowest grade dino oil is good for 5-6k these days.

 

^^ +1

 

I was talking about the transmission oil. 100 miles is a good first change with the new gears which are especially sensitive to debris in there. 100 miles is actually a great first engine oil change too but I don't think the engine is new.

 

I'm running regular oil. Idk what weight ha. I may just throw a quart in just to be safe for my 250 mile trip.

 

Where in PA?

 

^ Dingmans Ferry.

Car feels great!! See 2 vids below I took. First one is driving normally with very light throttle. I tried shifting around 3500 for each change. The second vid is about half throttle through 4th. Then light in 5-6.

The speedometer is off. I went through a speed trap and it read 38mph when my speedo was ~45.

 

IHC, is the recommendation for swapping the transmission fluid simply because the R&P is inside the transmission? Here in SC, the state car is the Mustang and of the millions of sets of gears installed, I've never seen anyone swap the differential fluid after having them installed. I'm assuming its not an issue since it is in an isolated axle with heavier gear oil?

P.S. Your description of the Mustangs were so spot on I'd swear they came straight from the dealer that way. We used to joke that if someone had a fox body without flowmasters or some brand of exhaust, it must have been modified!

 

As to not lose sight of this, I will continue to update.

The clutch feels much better after about 400 total miles (~150 city). I still haven't gone WOT, but just going half throttle feels fantastic. I will end up driving around during lunch probably every day this week in an effort to reach 500 miles ASAP. I will definitely go WOT before 500 miles, but maybe not for another day or so. I definitely will not be shifting hard for awhile though. I should have ~250 stop and go by tomorrow night.

For you all motor guys, this mod is serious. The combination of the FD/LW flywheel is phenomenal and unmatched by any mod I've done thus far. Like I said, I haven't even gone WOT yet and already feel a major difference. I'm not sure what it will relate to in terms of ET/MPH, but it feels awesome.

 

Get it too the track!

 

Excited to hear about your first WOT pull!

 

Keep in mind the speedometer is off. This pull is ~17-58. DA was around 1400ft according to my Dragtimes app. Car definitely scoots and I'm still on the stock catback I also hit a bump around 40.

http://s32.photobucket.com/user/Sonn...8f2d6.mp4.html

 

Wow defiantly quick! Thank you for posting. When are you expecting to get out to the track?

 

Honestly, probably not until September. I still need to do a cutout, get tuned & buy Drag Radials. I will go without Drag Radials, but I'd like to be tuned.

 

 

BTW what is the final drive ratio on a base automatic? Too damn lazy to look it up.

 

https://acurazine.com/forums/automotive-news-6/gear-ratios-tl-auto-vs-tl-6mt-vs-tsx-6mt-276281/

^ That took me 8 seconds. You waited almost a week.

The 500 mile threshold has been reached and then some Remember the speedo is off & I'm still on the stock catback, but man the car moves. Listen to how quickly each gear revs; the difference is huge.

1st thru bottom of 4th
IMG_1151_zpsb4ed557b.mp4 Video by Sonnick | Photobucket

2nd to top of 3rd (note the chirp when I punch it in 2nd)
IMG_1149_zps1ee4e93c.mp4 Video by Sonnick | Photobucket

 

That's awesome! Thanks for taking the time to post vids. Have any plans to readjust your speedo?... I should be more specific.. speedometer... lol

 

Ditch that automatic and you won't have to find it.

 

Hey Sonnick, not sure if you changed your tranny fluid yet but if you haven't check out Torco MTF. I have GM Synchromesh Friction Modified in my trans now, but when I do my final drive I plan on using Torco. MFactory is a known company that makes a lot of gears/final drives/lsds and they recommend Torco so check it out if you're interested.

http://mfactoryusa.com/transmission-fluid

 

Like Sonnick, My speedometer is off. here is a super crappy cell phone vid. And Missed 4th GAH

 

Just in case the photobucket link doesn't work

 

Fast as f*ck.

 

Hey Simi, any details on the install? Just wondering what it might cost to have the gears installed with the trans still in the car. I know Sonnick had his done with it out. I'm trying to decide between this and cams for my next mod. Leaning toward cams right now since I'm at 98k, so it makes sense to drop in some Bisi cams when I get the 105k done this winter. My clutch is still strong, so logically, it makes more sense to do the cams first and then wait till my clutch starts going and do the clutch and FD together.

BTW, your car moves.

 

Oh, definitely do the cams first. Labor for my install was $900 and that included an alignment. Sonnick started a list on v6pee for people interested in mfactory making a final drive. The tbmotorworx gear is just an oem gear with holes drilled into it so that it will fit our Trans. The mfactory will be a custom piece, but they require 10 interested people to get it made. And, it will only cost $7-$800. Who knows, by the time your clutch needs replacing, there will be a cheaper option and hondata will have incorporated speedometer correction for us on flashpro.

 

damn dude, that thing looks like it pulls solid. Nice.

 

Not as solid as yours, but thanks!

 

So that $900 was with the trans still in the car; drive in, drive out?

I saw that thread on the m factory FD. I still can't post over there for some reason. It shows me as myself when I log in, but when I try to post, it thinks I'm someone else. I've PM'd mods to no avail.

What happened to your '08 135, wrecked?

 

Don't want to hijack this thread so I'll keep it short -

Ran into a rain storm on Monday night, spun out on a lane change and crashed into the median at 60 mph. Wife walked away with some soreness but otherwise we were fine.

I had just installed my LSD 2 weeks before, too - luckily it was a front-crash so I was able to salvage the LSD. I had the car towed to my house afterwards so I could swap the stock differential back in.

Luckily I found a very clean replacement right away on the 1addicts.com forum

 

Yes sir, 900 drive in, drive out

 

Glad you and your wife are ok!

 

Did you ever measure out the new hole pattern for the ring gear ?