'08 MT TL Type S-New Dyno Results
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
'08 MT TL Type S-New Dyno Results
I have been a way for nearly a year from here. Between work and focusing on the race car time has fly by.
My goal of achieving 300whp with bolt ons UNTUNED is accomplished. The last run over a year ago was 294whp/262wtq. I knew that with a very detailed work without touching the internals; the TL is capable of achieving 300whp with air and exhaust.
This last mod was made by kingmotorsports (aka Mugen distributor in USA). The throttle body was bored in a 2 stage venturi with a match to a wider heatshield gasket and intake manifold opening.
The car after this mod produced 265whp...and i go...WTF, I was ready to flip out LMAO!!!. For some reason the car had a hidden faulty O2 sensor on the scanner. The 02 sensor was changed and it was taken to the dyno producing 285whp. (Take note: this is all on the same dyno). During that day for some reason it had a faulty ignition coil, then a second one. Im like...Crap whats going on. Is the car having a bad ground somewhere? any leaks? Well none of that happened...Its kinda funny to see how the warranty expires and 6 months later Im having all these problems LMAO...
Well I am happy to inform that in Orlando, Florida the car was dynoed yesterday 5-August-12 on a mustang dyno. It was a humid rainy day with about 83 degrees of ambient temp.
First run the car pulled 301whp, followed by another run within a couple of minutes resulting in 295whp (Note: Obiously the car is warm now). We waited 20mins for a 3rd and final pull resulting in 303.6whp. We can assume that realistically, the car on the track will have 295whp available between burnout and staging.
In comparison to the peak of 294.3 from last year, and the 303.6 from yesterday the Throttle Body mod has paid off with a total of 9.3whp. It is a big number but at a heafty price of over $400 dollars. Then again is MUGEN...Nothing gets better than that. Superb craftmanship, perfect idle, excellent results.
Next step within a couple of weeks will be the final mod to the car, consisting of a light and slight TUNE on the Air and Fuel with the AEM FIC.
Once again the 303.6whp is with bolt-ons and UNTUNED...that was the goal from the beginning. Why the AEM FIC? granted...I am N/A application and originally I bought the J&R ECU...In our opinion and reading all the threads from this computer, for the price and all the problems of shipping, harnesses, and little computer gremlins that need adjustments illuminated the dash as a xmas tree; I decided to return it.
My car looks totally stock and not even a CEL light is illuminated on the car. I am sure that by now J&R Megasquirt is better because of all the trial and errors from past clients.
I will keep you all posted for the new results. So there is hope out there to make it happen. Did I also told you guys that our 1997 Integra GSR with STOCK TRANNY no nitrous is running 9.25 secs @ 164mph in the 1/4 mile? Yes sir it is...with a 67mm turbo on it on the True Street class and a 24.5in tire. Hopefully in a few weeks we will break 9.0 or even better 8.9 secs to become the first ones in the nation to do it
My goal of achieving 300whp with bolt ons UNTUNED is accomplished. The last run over a year ago was 294whp/262wtq. I knew that with a very detailed work without touching the internals; the TL is capable of achieving 300whp with air and exhaust.
This last mod was made by kingmotorsports (aka Mugen distributor in USA). The throttle body was bored in a 2 stage venturi with a match to a wider heatshield gasket and intake manifold opening.
The car after this mod produced 265whp...and i go...WTF, I was ready to flip out LMAO!!!. For some reason the car had a hidden faulty O2 sensor on the scanner. The 02 sensor was changed and it was taken to the dyno producing 285whp. (Take note: this is all on the same dyno). During that day for some reason it had a faulty ignition coil, then a second one. Im like...Crap whats going on. Is the car having a bad ground somewhere? any leaks? Well none of that happened...Its kinda funny to see how the warranty expires and 6 months later Im having all these problems LMAO...
Well I am happy to inform that in Orlando, Florida the car was dynoed yesterday 5-August-12 on a mustang dyno. It was a humid rainy day with about 83 degrees of ambient temp.
First run the car pulled 301whp, followed by another run within a couple of minutes resulting in 295whp (Note: Obiously the car is warm now). We waited 20mins for a 3rd and final pull resulting in 303.6whp. We can assume that realistically, the car on the track will have 295whp available between burnout and staging.
In comparison to the peak of 294.3 from last year, and the 303.6 from yesterday the Throttle Body mod has paid off with a total of 9.3whp. It is a big number but at a heafty price of over $400 dollars. Then again is MUGEN...Nothing gets better than that. Superb craftmanship, perfect idle, excellent results.
Next step within a couple of weeks will be the final mod to the car, consisting of a light and slight TUNE on the Air and Fuel with the AEM FIC.
Once again the 303.6whp is with bolt-ons and UNTUNED...that was the goal from the beginning. Why the AEM FIC? granted...I am N/A application and originally I bought the J&R ECU...In our opinion and reading all the threads from this computer, for the price and all the problems of shipping, harnesses, and little computer gremlins that need adjustments illuminated the dash as a xmas tree; I decided to return it.
My car looks totally stock and not even a CEL light is illuminated on the car. I am sure that by now J&R Megasquirt is better because of all the trial and errors from past clients.
I will keep you all posted for the new results. So there is hope out there to make it happen. Did I also told you guys that our 1997 Integra GSR with STOCK TRANNY no nitrous is running 9.25 secs @ 164mph in the 1/4 mile? Yes sir it is...with a 67mm turbo on it on the True Street class and a 24.5in tire. Hopefully in a few weeks we will break 9.0 or even better 8.9 secs to become the first ones in the nation to do it
The following 2 users liked this post by JuamPs 69:
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#3
Instructor
Thread Starter
Correct...regarding the o2 and no CEL...
Now new o2 sensor and no CEL..
Mods are:
Intake: AEM CAI, P2R TB heatshield gaskets, P2R TB spacer, Throttle Body Bored and Matched to Intake Manifold, Lower Intake Runners ported and polished.
Exhaust: RV-6 Pre cat deletes, ATLP J-pipe, ATLP race pipe, XLR8 resonated cat back exhaust.
Transmission: Clutch Masters Stage 4 pressure plate with 6 puck disc, slave cylinder valve removed.
Brakes: Stoptech slotted/cross-drilled discs, Stoptech brakepads.
Suspension: Eibach Pro-Kit Springs
Miscellaneous Stuff: XLR8 Torque Dampner ( No need for it...The car brings a OEM dampner as good or better than the one sold by XLR8)
Now new o2 sensor and no CEL..
Mods are:
Intake: AEM CAI, P2R TB heatshield gaskets, P2R TB spacer, Throttle Body Bored and Matched to Intake Manifold, Lower Intake Runners ported and polished.
Exhaust: RV-6 Pre cat deletes, ATLP J-pipe, ATLP race pipe, XLR8 resonated cat back exhaust.
Transmission: Clutch Masters Stage 4 pressure plate with 6 puck disc, slave cylinder valve removed.
Brakes: Stoptech slotted/cross-drilled discs, Stoptech brakepads.
Suspension: Eibach Pro-Kit Springs
Miscellaneous Stuff: XLR8 Torque Dampner ( No need for it...The car brings a OEM dampner as good or better than the one sold by XLR8)
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TLove It! (08-05-2012)
#6
Superstressed
iTrader: (1)
Correct...regarding the o2 and no CEL...
Now new o2 sensor and no CEL..
Mods are:
Intake: AEM CAI, P2R TB heatshield gaskets, P2R TB spacer, Throttle Body Bored and Matched to Intake Manifold, Lower Intake Runners ported and polished.
Exhaust: RV-6 Pre cat deletes, ATLP J-pipe, ATLP race pipe, XLR8 resonated cat back exhaust.
Transmission: Clutch Masters Stage 4 pressure plate with 6 puck disc, slave cylinder valve removed.
Brakes: Stoptech slotted/cross-drilled discs, Stoptech brakepads.
Suspension: Eibach Pro-Kit Springs
Miscellaneous Stuff: XLR8 Torque Dampner ( No need for it...The car brings a OEM dampner as good or better than the one sold by XLR8)
Now new o2 sensor and no CEL..
Mods are:
Intake: AEM CAI, P2R TB heatshield gaskets, P2R TB spacer, Throttle Body Bored and Matched to Intake Manifold, Lower Intake Runners ported and polished.
Exhaust: RV-6 Pre cat deletes, ATLP J-pipe, ATLP race pipe, XLR8 resonated cat back exhaust.
Transmission: Clutch Masters Stage 4 pressure plate with 6 puck disc, slave cylinder valve removed.
Brakes: Stoptech slotted/cross-drilled discs, Stoptech brakepads.
Suspension: Eibach Pro-Kit Springs
Miscellaneous Stuff: XLR8 Torque Dampner ( No need for it...The car brings a OEM dampner as good or better than the one sold by XLR8)
No light weight pulley?
#7
All motor
Great numbers! That 3.5 is making great power.
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#8
Drifting
iTrader: (1)
crazy to see that you broke 300whp on a fully bolted tl-s. never would have thought that would nbe possible. good job. take into consideration that mustang dynos typically show smaller numbers than a dynojet dyno.
presumptively, the most a 5at tl-s could get with just bolt ons is 280ish.....if that
presumptively, the most a 5at tl-s could get with just bolt ons is 280ish.....if that
#9
good numbers
#13
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (2)
Correct...regarding the o2 and no CEL...
Now new o2 sensor and no CEL..
Mods are:
Intake: AEM CAI, P2R TB heatshield gaskets, P2R TB spacer, Throttle Body Bored and Matched to Intake Manifold, Lower Intake Runners ported and polished.
Exhaust: RV-6 Pre cat deletes, ATLP J-pipe, ATLP race pipe, XLR8 resonated cat back exhaust.
Transmission: Clutch Masters Stage 4 pressure plate with 6 puck disc, slave cylinder valve removed.
Brakes: Stoptech slotted/cross-drilled discs, Stoptech brakepads.
Suspension: Eibach Pro-Kit Springs
Miscellaneous Stuff: XLR8 Torque Dampner ( No need for it...The car brings a OEM dampner as good or better than the one sold by XLR8)
Now new o2 sensor and no CEL..
Mods are:
Intake: AEM CAI, P2R TB heatshield gaskets, P2R TB spacer, Throttle Body Bored and Matched to Intake Manifold, Lower Intake Runners ported and polished.
Exhaust: RV-6 Pre cat deletes, ATLP J-pipe, ATLP race pipe, XLR8 resonated cat back exhaust.
Transmission: Clutch Masters Stage 4 pressure plate with 6 puck disc, slave cylinder valve removed.
Brakes: Stoptech slotted/cross-drilled discs, Stoptech brakepads.
Suspension: Eibach Pro-Kit Springs
Miscellaneous Stuff: XLR8 Torque Dampner ( No need for it...The car brings a OEM dampner as good or better than the one sold by XLR8)
Awesome numbers. Might as well throw in some cams before you tune it. No reason to stop now!
#15
Chapter Leader (San Antonio)
iTrader: (3)
crazy to see that you broke 300whp on a fully bolted tl-s. never would have thought that would nbe possible. good job. take into consideration that mustang dynos typically show smaller numbers than a dynojet dyno.
presumptively, the most a 5at tl-s could get with just bolt ons is 280ish.....if that
presumptively, the most a 5at tl-s could get with just bolt ons is 280ish.....if that
#16
Instructor
Thread Starter
Sorry about not having a picture or printed copy so I can scan for the dyno graph. UR pulley will not give you additional whp. It might provide a quicker spool of rpms on the lower side, but I like to keep its momentum with current OEM weight for high end power as well.
Biggest bang for the buck?...BY FAR and hands down will always be the Pre-Cat Deletes from RV-6.
-My OEM baseline dyno (That means: 0 mods) was 253whp.
-Followed by the AEM CAI with ATLP J-Pipe and Race Pipe 265whp.
-Then the xlr8 cat back exhaust was installed but never dynoed, still felt a little bit more peppy.
-Rv-6 precat deletes were installed and the car made 288whp followed by a second pull of 290whp. I am assuming the pre-cat deletes gave about 15-18whp.
Now this is when things start to get technical. With a bit of patience, money and detailed specs you can extract the most out of your engine on the intake side:
The lower intake runners were ported and polished producing 4.3whp the result was a dyno pull of 294.3whp/262wtq.
How do we get to make a peak pull of 300whp? It was all made on the meticulous measurments for the bored Throttle Body. People will be asking me for specs on my bored TB.
All I can say about this that kingmotorsports will make the modification BASED ON CURRENT MODS of your car. Do not expect to have a 76mm or a 80mm TB with no ported runners or full free flow exhaust because its not going to work. As a matter of fact you will loose power.
This current mod was expensive for a few reasons. First, it is craftmanship fabricated by Kingmotorsports, second of all is drive by wire so the calibration for idle is critical, third...the throttle body was not only bored on the inlet and outlet with a change of butterfly; the inlet part consists of 2 different bore size in shape of a venturi to maximize not only volume of air, but speed through its funnel to keep the intake manifold charged with air as much as possible. The result was over $400 dollars for 9.3whp finishing at 303.6whp Mustang Dyno.
Im glad that someone noticed the fact that a Mustang Dyno's calibration, by default will always read slightly less than a Dyno-Jet.
When i got the TB done, I raced a few Nissan 370Z stock 350Z modded, G37 and G35 stock and modded, IS350 with catback and intake, even a 2011 Audi S4 with catback exhaust. All races on a roll and won. I was criticized by people saying NO WAY blah blah blah. Do research on each of those cars with their baseline or modded graphs from dyno results and you will see that at 303whp on my acura is possible.
Thanks for all the props guys
Biggest bang for the buck?...BY FAR and hands down will always be the Pre-Cat Deletes from RV-6.
-My OEM baseline dyno (That means: 0 mods) was 253whp.
-Followed by the AEM CAI with ATLP J-Pipe and Race Pipe 265whp.
-Then the xlr8 cat back exhaust was installed but never dynoed, still felt a little bit more peppy.
-Rv-6 precat deletes were installed and the car made 288whp followed by a second pull of 290whp. I am assuming the pre-cat deletes gave about 15-18whp.
Now this is when things start to get technical. With a bit of patience, money and detailed specs you can extract the most out of your engine on the intake side:
The lower intake runners were ported and polished producing 4.3whp the result was a dyno pull of 294.3whp/262wtq.
How do we get to make a peak pull of 300whp? It was all made on the meticulous measurments for the bored Throttle Body. People will be asking me for specs on my bored TB.
All I can say about this that kingmotorsports will make the modification BASED ON CURRENT MODS of your car. Do not expect to have a 76mm or a 80mm TB with no ported runners or full free flow exhaust because its not going to work. As a matter of fact you will loose power.
This current mod was expensive for a few reasons. First, it is craftmanship fabricated by Kingmotorsports, second of all is drive by wire so the calibration for idle is critical, third...the throttle body was not only bored on the inlet and outlet with a change of butterfly; the inlet part consists of 2 different bore size in shape of a venturi to maximize not only volume of air, but speed through its funnel to keep the intake manifold charged with air as much as possible. The result was over $400 dollars for 9.3whp finishing at 303.6whp Mustang Dyno.
Im glad that someone noticed the fact that a Mustang Dyno's calibration, by default will always read slightly less than a Dyno-Jet.
When i got the TB done, I raced a few Nissan 370Z stock 350Z modded, G37 and G35 stock and modded, IS350 with catback and intake, even a 2011 Audi S4 with catback exhaust. All races on a roll and won. I was criticized by people saying NO WAY blah blah blah. Do research on each of those cars with their baseline or modded graphs from dyno results and you will see that at 303whp on my acura is possible.
Thanks for all the props guys
The following 6 users liked this post by JuamPs 69:
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and 1 others liked this post.
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BostonSilverTypeS (08-13-2012)
#18
Drifting
iTrader: (1)
I made 294whp on a TL-S 5AT... and i had every single possible bolt-on available
ATLP Exhaust
ATLP J-Pipe
ATLP HFC
AEM Cold air Intake
RV6 Pre Cat Deletes
UR Ultra Sc Pulley
P2R TB Spacer
OE IM Gaskets
Innovative 60A Engine Mounts
300whp, N/A is probably only possible on a 6MT TL-S
ATLP Exhaust
ATLP J-Pipe
ATLP HFC
AEM Cold air Intake
RV6 Pre Cat Deletes
UR Ultra Sc Pulley
P2R TB Spacer
OE IM Gaskets
Innovative 60A Engine Mounts
300whp, N/A is probably only possible on a 6MT TL-S
Champ, I'm not sure if its possible. Although BLACKURA didn't have a pnp or bored TB and intake.
However, OP is talking up these PCDs like they are aphrodites tits and is really making me want them now. I just shelled out $700 this past two weeks on mods.
Maybe I should make that my goal...to hit 300whp in my type-s.
#19
Drifting
iTrader: (1)
Originally Posted by swoosh
LOL this is the price breakdown....how much did swoosh spend
AEM intake with bigger filter: $200 (back then they were cheap )
Moores Performance TB spacer: $50
Bored TB: $100
Bored Manifold and runners: $250
All Gaskets: $100
Bored MDX spacer: $50
PCD's: $250 (BM FTW )
Exhaust: $1800 round figure incase i missed something out
ECU + mods: $1800 (you can get the ECU by itself for 1225 )
Total: $4600
Gains: stock 5at is ~210hp and hoping am close to ~290 after ECU, so lets say 70hp
Turbo:
There is a GB going on right now:
Full turbo kit: $5600
ECU: $1225
Install (assuming you are not a DIY kinda guy + other expenses if any): $1000
Total: $7800
Gains: Atleast 230-250hp
you figure out whats a better deal
LOL this is the price breakdown....how much did swoosh spend
AEM intake with bigger filter: $200 (back then they were cheap )
Moores Performance TB spacer: $50
Bored TB: $100
Bored Manifold and runners: $250
All Gaskets: $100
Bored MDX spacer: $50
PCD's: $250 (BM FTW )
Exhaust: $1800 round figure incase i missed something out
ECU + mods: $1800 (you can get the ECU by itself for 1225 )
Total: $4600
Gains: stock 5at is ~210hp and hoping am close to ~290 after ECU, so lets say 70hp
Turbo:
There is a GB going on right now:
Full turbo kit: $5600
ECU: $1225
Install (assuming you are not a DIY kinda guy + other expenses if any): $1000
Total: $7800
Gains: Atleast 230-250hp
you figure out whats a better deal
#20
Instructor
Thread Starter
Yeah I didnt say anything about Blackura, but I recall that he did not reached the 300whp mark on bolt-ons. From your post now confirms my speculation...I remember that was part of the reason on focusing on 300whp soooo daaaamn much.
I know Gerzand made 298whp on bolt ons, but still shy. Am I the one with over 300 only on bolt ons UNTUNED? I think so...The difference between AT and MT when it comes to whp is a lot more for MT's
I know Gerzand made 298whp on bolt ons, but still shy. Am I the one with over 300 only on bolt ons UNTUNED? I think so...The difference between AT and MT when it comes to whp is a lot more for MT's
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JJH (08-06-2012)
#21
Drifting
iTrader: (1)
Yeah I didnt say anything about Blackura, but I recall that he did not reached the 300whp mark on bolt-ons. From your post now confirms my speculation...I remember that was part of the reason on focusing on 300whp soooo daaaamn much.
I know Gerzand made 298whp on bolt ons, but still shy. Am I the one with over 300 only on bolt ons UNTUNED? I think so...The difference between AT and MT when it comes to whp is a lot more for MT's
I know Gerzand made 298whp on bolt ons, but still shy. Am I the one with over 300 only on bolt ons UNTUNED? I think so...The difference between AT and MT when it comes to whp is a lot more for MT's
#26
takin care of Business in
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Great work Juam....its nice to see you are back and with the car....
Yourself and Andy are the only 2 NA Type S running more than 300whp....
someday my Base 5AT will be there
Yourself and Andy are the only 2 NA Type S running more than 300whp....
someday my Base 5AT will be there
#27
Instructor
Thread Starter
Thanks Swoosh...Andy's car got High Compression pistons and Bisimoto camshaft. Im still UNTUNED stock internals LMAOO!!!
Props for Andy, this is my daily driver and I dont have the balls to play around with the internals just yet LOLOL!!! Thats why I have the integra for that.
303whp out of the mustang dyno are really good for N/A...Once "CMB Tuning" takes care of the ECU, hopefully in the next couple of weeks we will see slight gains of 10-18whp more...I will be happy with a 320whp on a N/A AEM FIC set up. FORGET about that J&R ECU thats a big waste of money.
Props for Andy, this is my daily driver and I dont have the balls to play around with the internals just yet LOLOL!!! Thats why I have the integra for that.
303whp out of the mustang dyno are really good for N/A...Once "CMB Tuning" takes care of the ECU, hopefully in the next couple of weeks we will see slight gains of 10-18whp more...I will be happy with a 320whp on a N/A AEM FIC set up. FORGET about that J&R ECU thats a big waste of money.
#28
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (2)
Thanks Swoosh...Andy's car got High Compression pistons and Bisimoto camshaft. Im still UNTUNED stock internals LMAOO!!!
Props for Andy, this is my daily driver and I dont have the balls to play around with the internals just yet LOLOL!!! Thats why I have the integra for that.
303whp out of the mustang dyno are really good for N/A...Once "CMB Tuning" takes care of the ECU, hopefully in the next couple of weeks we will see slight gains of 10-18whp more...I will be happy with a 320whp on a N/A AEM FIC set up. FORGET about that J&R ECU thats a big waste of money.
Props for Andy, this is my daily driver and I dont have the balls to play around with the internals just yet LOLOL!!! Thats why I have the integra for that.
303whp out of the mustang dyno are really good for N/A...Once "CMB Tuning" takes care of the ECU, hopefully in the next couple of weeks we will see slight gains of 10-18whp more...I will be happy with a 320whp on a N/A AEM FIC set up. FORGET about that J&R ECU thats a big waste of money.
#30
Instructor
Thread Starter
ANX 1300C everybody got their opinion about that particular ECU. Today they still talk about the constant headache of customer support and ECU problems. We all know not to expect a plug and play. Trust me I have been on this industry both recreational and professional for a some time now. There are better alternatives out there
#32
Three Wheelin'
iTrader: (3)
Thanks Swoosh...Andy's car got High Compression pistons and Bisimoto camshaft. Im still UNTUNED stock internals LMAOO!!!
Props for Andy, this is my daily driver and I dont have the balls to play around with the internals just yet LOLOL!!! Thats why I have the integra for that.
303whp out of the mustang dyno are really good for N/A...Once "CMB Tuning" takes care of the ECU, hopefully in the next couple of weeks we will see slight gains of 10-18whp more...I will be happy with a 320whp on a N/A AEM FIC set up. FORGET about that J&R ECU thats a big waste of money.
Props for Andy, this is my daily driver and I dont have the balls to play around with the internals just yet LOLOL!!! Thats why I have the integra for that.
303whp out of the mustang dyno are really good for N/A...Once "CMB Tuning" takes care of the ECU, hopefully in the next couple of weeks we will see slight gains of 10-18whp more...I will be happy with a 320whp on a N/A AEM FIC set up. FORGET about that J&R ECU thats a big waste of money.
Now im 13.5:1 with race heads and cams!!
#33
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Thanks Swoosh...Andy's car got High Compression pistons and Bisimoto camshaft. Im still UNTUNED stock internals LMAOO!!!
Props for Andy, this is my daily driver and I dont have the balls to play around with the internals just yet LOLOL!!! Thats why I have the integra for that.
303whp out of the mustang dyno are really good for N/A...Once "CMB Tuning" takes care of the ECU, hopefully in the next couple of weeks we will see slight gains of 10-18whp more...I will be happy with a 320whp on a N/A AEM FIC set up. FORGET about that J&R ECU thats a big waste of money.
Props for Andy, this is my daily driver and I dont have the balls to play around with the internals just yet LOLOL!!! Thats why I have the integra for that.
303whp out of the mustang dyno are really good for N/A...Once "CMB Tuning" takes care of the ECU, hopefully in the next couple of weeks we will see slight gains of 10-18whp more...I will be happy with a 320whp on a N/A AEM FIC set up. FORGET about that J&R ECU thats a big waste of money.
in all honestly the JnR is worth it....i do agree it has a shit ton of headaches it comes with....but am pretty sure Andy has his tune from when he was just bolted on....and both you guys have the exact same mods.....so maybe he can help you tune for a some cash and you can gain ~25whp/wtq....
again this is not the right time to buy the ECU but wait for the GB to get done and then buy it, so you wont have wait time as well....
I wish Rodney's customer service was a little bit better as he would have gotten a lot more orders
#34
All motor
I'd love the JnR ECU but his customer service really steers me away. Not to mention all the headaches thus far...
I'm sure I'd get pulled on slightly, but I wouldn't mind running a Type S 6MT with 300whp....
I'm sure I'd get pulled on slightly, but I wouldn't mind running a Type S 6MT with 300whp....
#35
Instructor
Thread Starter
Yeah Andy's numbers of 298whp was with bolt ons not with the internals...It is up to him to mention his numbers now. I can assure you my tuner will be able to extract a good 12-18whp with just air fuel from the FIC...I am estimating that the car will be making a solid 315-320whp with no problem, maintaining relaibility, no headaches, no extra codes or CEL light and with stock internals.
I have to admit if we achieve that...those are pretty damn good numbers for bolt ons only.
I have to admit if we achieve that...those are pretty damn good numbers for bolt ons only.
#37
takin care of Business in
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^^^ i conur....those will be great numbers for just bolt ons and a tune....
and yes, Andy was making 5WHP less than you are with bolt ons but I think he was making more low end torque....its just a different of different Jpipes (just stating an example).....
your car has been an inspiration as well....very clean, sounds awesome and hell, its FAST !!!
about the JnR ECU, you do not get a CEL with that ECU as well (atleast you shouldnt be getting).....the only CEL which couple people are rocking is with the EGR delete....since you wont alter your VTEC engagement, you wont have that CEL as well....
but hey its your dollar, your decision....either way the difference in power wont be more than 10-12HP between JnR MS3 ECU and the AEM FIC....
and yes, Andy was making 5WHP less than you are with bolt ons but I think he was making more low end torque....its just a different of different Jpipes (just stating an example).....
your car has been an inspiration as well....very clean, sounds awesome and hell, its FAST !!!
about the JnR ECU, you do not get a CEL with that ECU as well (atleast you shouldnt be getting).....the only CEL which couple people are rocking is with the EGR delete....since you wont alter your VTEC engagement, you wont have that CEL as well....
but hey its your dollar, your decision....either way the difference in power wont be more than 10-12HP between JnR MS3 ECU and the AEM FIC....
#38
All motor
Now take the Type S to the track! And/or post speedo vids?
#39
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (2)
I'll be lucky to break 300 with manifold work, cams and the FIC. Wish I'd started with a Type-S. The fact it usually dynos ~250 stock to the base model's ~220 suggests that it's actually a bit underrated at 286 bhp.
#40
takin care of Business in
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Kansas City, MO
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I have the slowest car stock....I have a 2005 Base 5AT....they dyno at 210....the Base 6MT dyno's at 220-ish.....
The Type S 5AT dyno at 230-ish and then the Type S 6MT dyno in at 250-ish....
i am fully bolted on and a Type S 6MT with only PCD's will pull on me....
i think i will be happy if i see 270 on the dyno....i should be around 260-265 topppsss.....to break the 300 i have to get cams+ECU+tune....with that i should be around 310-ish....