im about to get my system, is there a DIY on how to install the amp (run the wires) etc. and is it true that my engine light will come on?

 

Did you find what your looking for? The best thread I could come up with is this one below. I will be installing my some subs and an amp tomorrow and will post pics if you need some more assistance. Hope this helps!~

https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-audio-bluetooth-electronics-navigation-94/diy-aftermarket-amp-install-speaker-install-audiocontrol-matrix-install-w-pics-580314/

 

Nice write up..but holy crap that's a lot of steps. Just take it to a stereo shop and save yourself the time (and cuts on your hands).

 

I kinda already kno how to install but more pics would be great, will in fact my engine light will cone on because of running the power wire through the firewall? Thats my main concern atm

 

I am installing my stuff now as we speak. I haven't read that a CEL turns on. I do know with the Type S you have to disconnect a cancellation microphone. But that is about it....whew....guess its time to get back in it....I will post some more pics though....

 

Sorry I didn't get back to you earlier. It took me 3 days to fabricate my DVD player into my center console. I dont want to thread jack but here are a few pics you requested to hopefully make your install smoother....For 07-08 Type S you must check out this thread....https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-audio-bluetooth-electronics-navigation-94/big-problems-need-help-sub-noise-cancellation-609759/

Tools:
Phillips screw driver
Roll of wire (Coat hanger should do)
Electrical tape
LOC (line output converter)
Mini add a fuse

First I punched a small hole with the phillips screwdriver in a large rubber grommet found on the drivers side fuse box area. I tied the wired to the end of the screw driver when I punched it through. After it went through I tied the power wire under the hood to the wire and pulled it into the cabin.Use an add a fuse in fuse #32 in this fuse box to run your remote wire to your amp.



Next you continue the same method all the way to the rear of the car with the remote wire also. You will only have to remove the bottom door sills for the front and back. The portion where the seat belts are, you will only have to pop the bottom unloose.


You have to tear the carpet up in the trunk. Make sure you keep a count of all the different screws. If you were replacing the factory speakers/sub then you would have to remove the rear seat. A screw is located above the spare tire towards the drivers side. You can use this as the ground for the amp.


Finally you have to purchase a LOC (line output converter). I bought mine for $4.99 at Advance Auto Parts. Twist the negative wires together and then the positive wires separately. You will tie this into the positive/negative of the subwoofer wire coming from the car. The way you distinguish which one is +/-, you have to look at the connector coming from the factory sub. One wire will have the black line distinguishing it as negative. I left my factory sub disconnected also. My LOC has a brown wire which is a ground and the RCAs go into the input RCA in your amp.

 

didnt realize the LOC hookup was that easy. im going to run an aftermarket amp/sub off the stock setup.

thanks for the quick write up. found this on a search.

 

No problem.... Since you have a Type-S also make sure you check out the thread listed above in my last post because I blew my JL 10's because of our noise cancellation system.... You only have to disconnect the rear microphone. After you take out the rear dome lights, I used a small jewelers screwdriver to pop off the mini zip tie on the rear microphone connector. Then press the top portion of the connector with the jewelers screwdriver and disconnect it. (It will make more sense when your looking at it...lol) Very easy to do!~

The LOC is also an extremely easy device to work. The best part is that we can still control the new subwoofer through the Audio settings in the Nav screen.

 

awesome, thanks for the heads up

 

Thanks donnie b!! excactly what i was looking for. does this process cause any errors on the information display?

 

what size wire is your power wire? from the looks of it it looks to be 8awg..... I hope you dont plan to run much power with that if thats the case.

 

hey guys i'm have the engine noise in my sub in my 99 tl . any suggestion to solve the problem. pls help!

 

Almost a year later, but there are no error lights or anything. It works perfect.

This was my first setup. 12" Rockford and 350 watt Jensen amp. I ended up running 0AWG, a 12" L7, and MA 1000.1D amp. My TL-S is long gone now and running the newer setup in my M45.


Try the 2nd gen section to confirm similar issues, but it sounds like a possible grounding issue. Make sure you have a thick ground wire on your amp to the chassis. Make sure the grounding point is not rusted and you may have to scrape a little of the paint (depending on location) to ensure its a solid ground connection. Also make sure your power wire is run separately from any other wires. I've heard the power wire when connected to the battery in the engine bay can touch certain wires that bring the "engine sound" through the system.

 

OP, do you have any pictures of where you placed the LOC inside the panels? I have an 06 TL w/ Navi and I'm a little perplexed as to how I'm going to fit the LOC inside the kick panels.

 

I'm not the OP but below is where I placed mine. I moved the carpet inside the trunk and placed the LOC behind the passenger tail light. I used double sided velcro for it to hold. Never had any issues. Hope it helps.

 

Please correct me if I'm wrong, but shouldn't the LOC be as close to the HU as possible?

 

A line driver should be as close to the HU as possible for noise reduction. A LOC is better off near the amps. Line driver boosts voltage, LOC reduces it.

 

Where did u guys break the firewall for a 2008 type s to run your power guage

 

Use the already existing grommet and hole in the middle of the firewall. There's some main audio threads that describes where it's at.

 

I am going to be install a LOC but I have a few questions. The pics dont work as I tried to click on them and they still dont work. Second I am curious if I should cut the sub wires at the factory amp or just use the wires runing to the sub. I will also be installing a gain control knob and wsnted to know if this would interfere with the sub control on the factory radio. If u just use the wires at the sub isnt the factory amp still supplying power to those wires? to me it seems it would be still supplying power and would cause a problem with the LOC and new amp install. Im just confused and any help guidance would be great. ive search the forums and my answers are still unclear. All I want to do is install a amp with a LOC and gain knob fr raising and lowering the gain. Thanks and pictures would be perfect.

 

If you use the wires feeding the sub you do not need a remote gain knob u will have sub control from HU

 

thanks for that answer anyone else have any answers for other questions