Not really looking for any advice or guidance just want to hear what you guys are bumpin? Post up what subs/box/amp/door speakers and how much power you are pushing. I have pretty much decided I am going to do 2 12" JL w0v3 in a JL ported basswedge box with a 600 watt JL amp. Haven't decided on door speakers yet but was looking at either JL, or diamond audio elite series. One thing I do wonder is how bad do these cars rattle with a system
Any feedback is appreciated!

 

Rear deck rattles bad with a powerful sub unless you fix it.

 

My rear deck already rattles with the base sub turned all the way up. The fix seems to be to put foam around the sub + speakers so shouldn't be an issue since you plan on replacing them anyways

 

 

https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-a...-fever-854353/

Thats my set up. 6x9 in rear deck? wont fit without mods and no reason to run a 6x9

 

Results for: 2004 > Acura > TL > Base > 4-door > Sedan | Vehicle Fit Guide | Metra Online Metra at it again with the incorrect speaker sizes. What does fit in the rear deck?

 

Check crutchfield.com for sizes

 

I'm running a 12" Sundown SA in a custom enclosure powered by a MB Quart ZA1-1500.1. I also upgraded the front speakers to Morel Maximos powered by a Precision Powder i350.2.

As for the rattles, I put sound deadener on the interior panels of the trunk, interior panels of the front doors, and tucked foam between the rear windshield and rear deck (helps A LOT).

 

Same speakersthat are in the doors. About 6 1/4". A 4.75 cutout diameter is way too big. I have 7" Dayton Audio RS180-4s in my doors, NVX XSPTWs in the dash locations. An oldschool 10" Hertz HX250d in about .9 cuft sealed box corner loaded directly behind me facing me. Rear speakers are stock but they are turned down so low (faded f7) so to only give rear passengers a bit of clarity. Front and sub are powered by a JL Audio HD900/5. Using 14gauge solid copper wireto connect the amp in the stock wiring at the amp in the kick panel.

You will want to consider that the cars head unit outputs differential-balanced signals for noise suppression from any interference in the car. This is a problem if you are connecting to those signals without a piece of equipment that is designed to use the differential-balanced type of signal. The signal is low (<.9 volts) but doubles using the correct equipment and is very quiet and clean).

I say this because you'd be doing yourself a favour by bypassing the stock amp when using most aftermarket equipment.

The rear dash cover will jeed to be removed so that you can apply deadening materials to the metal surfaces but most importantly you will want to isolate the rear dash cover from the rear window. Deadening and sealing the doors makes a big difference in bass response for door speakers. A little deadening on some other bare metal parts also helps to eliminate resonance type responses from the rear which ruin the sound.

 

5.75cutout not 4.75