I took a chance on audio happiness, and I think I just messed up big time. My car’s engine made a funny electrical noise in the engine, and now it won’t start. I have been researching installing aftermarket amplifiers using line out converters on this forum for quite a while. It seems simple. I would like to go over with you exactly how I set up this system, and hopefully those of you who have done similar setups may have some advice.

I have three amplifiers. I bought a sven two channel (with remote turn on), and a four channel line out converter. I ran the six speaker wire leads after the stock amp back to the LOC’s in the trunk. The remote turn on coming out of the two channel LOC went to a relay, which provided turn on power to the remote amplifiers. I ran a 1/0 gauge power line with a fuse from the battery to the trunk, and hooked it up to a fused 3 port distribution block. I figured I had the proper safeguards in place, 1. Fuses in the amplifiers, 2. Individual fuses for each of the three amplifiers in the distribution block, 3. Fuse at the battery.

I completed the installation without any problems, and I was plugging in the rca cables to the proper amplifiers while adjusting gain settings, when I hear this electrical noise in the engine. I unplugged the 1/0 power cable, and disconnected the two channel remote turn on unit so that my system is no longer connected to my car. Now my car won’t start. However, I have full battery power, it doesn’t seem like the old dead battery thing. The only thing I can think of is that a short ran back through the speaker wire to the head unit to the engine? I checked the head unit fuse, and it isn’t blown. I was thinking that was the only thing that wasn’t fused. I didn’t think it had to be….Any suggestions?

 

best way to check for a short is like this......take a 12volt light bulb....disconnect the positive terminal cable from the battery.....put the bulb in between the battery and cable if it lights up u have a drain somewhere....if it doesnt light up at all then its a fuse and u should be ok...locating it is a diff story.... some pics would help too of the wire install in ur engine bay.

 

When you say "electrical noise in the engine compartment", please define?

Did you run a new power feeder (amp kit) to the new amps? I did but left out the fuse until I was all buttoned up.

I can't think of anything you might have done just by tapping into the factory amp wires.

I'd check the fuse box under the hood, see if the main ignition fuse (or any other fuse) is blown. Consult your owners manual for location of that fuse.

 

yep good call stew.....forgot that....fuse or circuit breaker.....if u didnt have one or the other i wish u luck u could shorted a lot more than a fuse.

 

I believe it trying the simple things first.. been there, done that thinking I hd did something much worse when all it all the time it was a loose connection/connector/fuse/etc.

 

I had a fuse at the battery terminal, 3 for each amp in the distribution block, and the fuses in the amps themselves. Everything was grounded to the stock bolt connection in the trunk. I checked the ignition fuses, and nothing is blown. I am completely dumbfounded.

 

I would connect one amp at a time, plug in fuses and see if one is toast and giving you a dead short.

It does seem odd that you'd lose all fuses!

Just for grins, you can do a continuity check between the hot and ground terminal on the amps (cables disconnected) to see if one has a dead short.

 

At this point, I am simply trying to get my car to start. I have disconnected my main amplifier power cable, and the remote turn on. My stereo is not tied in with my car anymore, and it still will not start. I get full power to dash, and lights, etc. but makes a strange sound when I try and crank it.

 

check ALL the fuses in the car, the underhood ones and the ones on the driver's floor.

 

I wish it was that simple. I did check all of them, and there are no fuses that are blown. Under the hood, and in the kick panel. I am hoping it is just a battery that doesn't have enough juice to start the car. It is charging tonight, and will test tomorrow. It is just that arcing noise that bothers me. Perhaps I wore the battery out taking the negative terminal off and on during the installation? Who knows.

 

battery is dead, that electrical sound coming from the engine is the starter relay losing and engaging residue 12 volts when trying to start, jump it, give that a try. bet you anything that is it.

also, your battery died because one or both front doors were open as well as the trunk. even when your dome light goes off when the doors are open to long, the flood lights from the doors dont shut off, as well as the trunk light.

 

probably dead battery....... just cuase the dash lights up, doesnt mean the battery is fully charged....

you said a nosie came from the engine before you tried to start it? then you went over to start it, and it wouldnt crank?

 

Check your battery. Is it the stock battery? There are also some relays. Do you need the wirng diagram?

 

Blackura_NY - Yes there was an arcing noise that came from the engine while I was running the stereo. I disconnected the stereo leads and tried to start the car, and it wouldn't start.

King of Pain - Yes it is the stock battery. What would I do with the relays? Yes I would like the wiring diagram if I knew what to do with them.

My battery should be charged now I am going to see.

 

Okay, apparently it was a dead battery. I had the battery charged overnight, and it started up today. I apologize for all of the drama, I have installed many systems in the past, and run down numerous batteries. In the past, the windows would roll up slow, or the lights would dim, but my TL didn't exhibit these characteristics. In addition to that, the arcing sound just sounded horrible. I have never heard that sound before, that is what scared me. I didn't want to jumpstart it, due to fear of an electrical problem disabling my second vehicle. King of Pain and lowendz mentioned the relays not getting enough juice that are in conjunction with the battery, and that made sense to me. I believe that is what was arcing. I am going to let out a scream of relief now, and finish my installation now. I will post some pics later. Thank you guys.

 

Glad to hear you got it going!
Just a little tip... dont worry about jumping a vehicle, all you got to remember is to never let both vehicles run at the same time when the jumper cables are on. Many people make the mistake of reving the fully charged car while jumpng the dead car. Problem with that is, then your running two alternators when the dead car starts up, that being said, your actually doubling the amprage, in turn, can/or will fry the on board computer.

so... when jumping a dead vehicle, leave the charged vehicle not running.

 

Very interesting post lowendz, I have never done it like that before. It makes a lot of sense.