Stereo is BACK!!
Stereo is BACK!!
So the entire sound system in my car has been slowing getting lower and lower to the point I turn it up to 40 and my cell phone radio is louder. I did a search here and located the amp in the right kick panel. Can you believe the back of the amp had "BAD" scratched into it!! Keep in mind ive owned the car since it had 48K miles, now has 122K and everything worked fine when i got it. I found an amp on ebay used for $60 and presto.......my sound is back!! Dont know if anyone else has run into this, but that was the best $60 ive spent so far this year.
So the entire sound system in my car has been slowing getting lower and lower to the point I turn it up to 40 and my cell phone radio is louder. I did a search here and located the amp in the right kick panel. Can you believe the back of the amp had "BAD" scratched into it!! Keep in mind ive owned the car since it had 48K miles, now has 122K and everything worked fine when i got it. I found an amp on ebay used for $60 and presto.......my sound is back!! Dont know if anyone else has run into this, but that was the best $60 ive spent so far this year.
I see you're from Mobile. I'm from a little city nearby. I usually fly into Mobile when going back home to visit.
You really want to start this again?
[QUOTE=I
You really want to start this again?[/QUOTE]
Actually dont care what you think. Dont want to talk to you either, or y
our monkey. The fact is you can get the most bang for buck just improving the installation of the stock equipment. Now STFU
You really want to start this again?[/QUOTE]
Actually dont care what you think. Dont want to talk to you either, or y
our monkey. The fact is you can get the most bang for buck just improving the installation of the stock equipment. Now STFU
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 78,245
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My oem amp got very loud with static after 50k miles on the clock...had to bypass it. 
Glad you figured out your issue, man.
Now, if only my CD player would start working again...FK ME>

Glad you figured out your issue, man.
Now, if only my CD player would start working again...FK ME>
Trending Topics

I'm currently pulling my stock speakers and amp out of storage and ripping the excess sound deadener from my doors and the rest of the car and going back to stock with a little deadener in the doors so I can improve the sound. I can't wait to see how much better the stock door speakers sound than my 10s currently in the door.

I'm currently pulling my stock speakers and amp out of storage and ripping the excess sound deadener from my doors and the rest of the car and going back to stock with a little deadener in the doors so I can improve the sound. I can't wait to see how much better the stock door speakers sound than my 10s currently in the door.
I wouldn't care what you said except for the fact you've insinuated that those of us with aftermarket power and speakers are wasting money and that you can get similar performance by adding some sound deadening. While you can slightly improve the stock stuff with that method, you speak about these things because you've never experienced a good system. I'm not trying to be insulting but no one would be this excited about some damper if they have experienced a good system.
In one thread you even mentioned that somehow the stock speakers have plenty of midbass and aftermarket are not needed. I have bottomed a very high end 6.5" trying to keep up with my subs. It's simple math and I'll show you why your theories can't be true.
Vd= speaker displacement. This is how much air it can displace, how loud it can get in the lower frequencies. Linear is based on Klippel results and mechanical is total displacement before the speaker starts self destructing.
Stock 6.5"
Linear - 250cm^2.
Mechanical -396cm^2.
Dyn650 6.5"
Linear - 488cm^2.
Mechanical 1281cm^2.
Dyn182 (10")
Linear- 2160cm^2
Mechanical- 3120cm^2.
The aftermarket 6.5s have 3x more mechanical displacement and 2x more linear displacement over stock. This is directly related to how low and loud they can get. The aftermarkets have less distortion than stock well past their linear range as well.
IMO, the 10s are about perfect for someone who wants the option of crossing the midbass at 63hz or even lower if needed and still having good SPL which is why I'm currently running them. Most importantly, music becomes more dynamic and realistic.
That's 12x the linear displacement and 8x the mechanical displacement of the stock speakers and I consider it adequate but it's nothing to brag about.
Aftermarket gives you a MUCH lower Fs, MUCH lower Qts, and MUCH flatter frequency response over the stock speakers. The stock stuff can't get loud due to excursion limitations unless you run a 120hz+ highpass on them and to make things worse, they're actually less efficient than the average aftermarket speaker meaning that while they can't handle as much power, they also require more power for the same output.
Looking at the specs, the stock speakers might possibly make better midrange speakers than midbass speakers. My stock speakers sounded fine with a 75w amp on them but to get any appreciable output they had to be crossed over between 120-140hz to avoid clacking from bottoming out.
You do not have any idea what your talking about! The danger is that others may actually believe you. Highly unlikely but never the less. I can completely disconect my sub and just play my front comps and that alone will completely destroy anything that you could muster up using all of the stock drivers. You really need to listen to an inexpensive well put together system and then report back on your experience. Until then you just have no clue.
And your idea that the stock ELS processing is magic is also completely wrong. That processing is to protect crappy drivers.
And your idea that the stock ELS processing is magic is also completely wrong. That processing is to protect crappy drivers.
Last edited by pohljm; Jul 8, 2012 at 11:12 AM.
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WTF...why does everyone like to fk with you, Matt?!! 
Honestly though, when I was 17 I was told that my penile growth had reached it's climax at 3 inches, hard. Luckily, I added some deadener and now I have a regular sized one that nobody laughs at that much!

Honestly though, when I was 17 I was told that my penile growth had reached it's climax at 3 inches, hard. Luckily, I added some deadener and now I have a regular sized one that nobody laughs at that much!
No you are the arrogant prick. I never made any of the claims you state I did. I said the clarity is improved due to more sound coming through the grill which also helped with transition between woofer and tweeter. You dumb fuck. Go fuck yourself and your fucking dyn speakers. Your stupid infatuation with that shit is what blinds you to what I actually said. Fuck you
Oh no. I am exposed.
Anyway, the issue you have and others is that you cannot accept that I prefer the sound of the stock speakers and amplifer/processing with improved installation to spending gobs of money on aftermarket equipment. I presented this information for others like myself who wish to improve the clarity/sq of the stock system. That is what has been accomplished and very noticeably to my experienced ears.
That is all. I NEVER said midbass was substantially improved. I said that the ouput of the woofer was increased in the cabin having the effect of smoothing the transition between woofer and tweeter. This would account for my perception of improved clarity and stereo image. In fact my system sounds fantastic for basically a stock car audio system. If you cannot understand that you need to seek some counseling for your problem.
Anyway, the issue you have and others is that you cannot accept that I prefer the sound of the stock speakers and amplifer/processing with improved installation to spending gobs of money on aftermarket equipment. I presented this information for others like myself who wish to improve the clarity/sq of the stock system. That is what has been accomplished and very noticeably to my experienced ears.
That is all. I NEVER said midbass was substantially improved. I said that the ouput of the woofer was increased in the cabin having the effect of smoothing the transition between woofer and tweeter. This would account for my perception of improved clarity and stereo image. In fact my system sounds fantastic for basically a stock car audio system. If you cannot understand that you need to seek some counseling for your problem.
Oh no. I am exposed.
Anyway, the issue you have and others is that you cannot accept that I prefer the sound of the stock speakers and amplifer/processing with improved installation to spending gobs of money on aftermarket equipment. I presented this information for others like myself who wish to improve the clarity/sq of the stock system. That is what has been accomplished and very noticeably to my experienced ears.
That is all. I NEVER said midbass was substantially improved. I said that the ouput of the woofer was increased in the cabin having the effect of smoothing the transition between woofer and tweeter. This would account for my perception of improved clarity and stereo image. In fact my system sounds fantastic for basically a stock car audio system. If you cannot understand that you need to seek some counseling for your problem.
Anyway, the issue you have and others is that you cannot accept that I prefer the sound of the stock speakers and amplifer/processing with improved installation to spending gobs of money on aftermarket equipment. I presented this information for others like myself who wish to improve the clarity/sq of the stock system. That is what has been accomplished and very noticeably to my experienced ears.
That is all. I NEVER said midbass was substantially improved. I said that the ouput of the woofer was increased in the cabin having the effect of smoothing the transition between woofer and tweeter. This would account for my perception of improved clarity and stereo image. In fact my system sounds fantastic for basically a stock car audio system. If you cannot understand that you need to seek some counseling for your problem.
What you still fail to realize is everyone with an upgraded system has been down this path. We did it, then added aftermarket speakers and power and the changes from slapping on a piece of deadener is so insignificant that it's never mentioned by anyone who has done upgrades. You are not the first to do this; you're the first to make such a big deal over nothing.
I am not interested in arguing about claims I did not make and that is what pissed me off. No matter how many times I clarify you keep stuffing words in my mouth so to speak. Those claims were by you to refute the real and appropriate claims I did make. I did not say you or anyone else wasted their money on aftermarket speakers. I said it would be a waste to me to change the speakers. The only problem I have with my current system now is it could get a little bit louder on the xm source. I can easily fix that with a cheap AB amplifier like the one I picked up for 65 bucks but haven't gotten around to installing yet. If I never do that is fine though because I would still be very pleased with the sound reproduction of the system currently and can live with moderately loud listening levels 100% of the time though is that 2% of time I would like more headroom.
Theoretically, how would someone know how their intellect compared to the rest of the population, in your opinion? You said yourself despite upgrading your system components substantially that your system rarely sounds better than stock. Remember? Mine sounds twice as good as it did when I bought it and for maybe a tenth of the investment.
Theoretically, how would someone know how their intellect compared to the rest of the population, in your opinion? You said yourself despite upgrading your system components substantially that your system rarely sounds better than stock. Remember? Mine sounds twice as good as it did when I bought it and for maybe a tenth of the investment.
Last edited by stevemk07; Jul 9, 2012 at 01:23 AM.
You implied we wasted our money on speakers several times. You posted in threads that had nothing to do with you about how inadequate your midbass is. Don't worry about arguing this point, I'll have a list of your quotes tomorrow.
The only problem I have with my current system now is it could get a little bit louder on the xm source. I can easily fix that with a cheap AB amplifier like the one I picked up for 65 bucks but haven't gotten around to installing yet. If I never do that is fine though because I would still be very pleased with the sound reproduction of the system currently and can live with moderately loud listening levels 100% of the time though is that 2% of time I would like more headroom.
Please just do not respond to my posts. I know you think you know lots about car audio but I gaurantee I have learned more in the past year than you could learn in ten. My whole life it has been this way. You will obviously not like to read that and probably will not believe me anyway. Oh well. Just STFU!!! The information I posted was all relevant, informed and extremely cost effective.
How do you know yours sounds twice as good as stock? Is this some unit of measure that I'm not aware of? Ok, mine sound 100x better than stock, I win the game.
I proved mathematically how your system cannot possibly have any sort of decent midbass output. Ignore it if you choose but it's still a big problem on stock speakers and power. Unbelievable, you have 20w on the equivalent cone area as a 5.25" with 1.5mm of excursion and you think it sounds good? You have no idea what dynamics, punch, headroom, and even bass are supposed to sound like.
Ignore it all you like but I'll say it again. We all started where you are at and we all have far surpassed where you are at. You're talking out of your ass about something we all have experience with and you have none.
But here's what it comes down to. You enter your car in the next MECA event in your area. I'll enter mine. Let's see which car the judges think sound better. I'll run mine subless to give you a better chance.
You said you could put my equipment to better use, explain how you would do this.
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 78,245
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Jeez Steve...you get pretty friggin fired up to prove a point. The stock speakers are good enough for you, doesn't mean they are good enough for everyone.
To be entirely honest, if I could have all the money I've spent back (and my trunk space
)...and go back to a NON noisy OEM amp that put out just a LITTLE more power in XM/Ipod mode...I probably wouldn't have ever messed with the system.
I ride with the windows down on the highway so I need to be able to crank it loud enough to hear over road noise. So in my case, my aftermarket stuff is great and serves my purpose. For you the stock speakers sound awesome. I also kinda don't feel like the oem speakers push hard enough to really NEED extra deadener BUT that said...I could see how since they're not very loud, adding deadener to keep ALL the sound coming back into the cab would be good. Either way...different strokes. No big deal.
J.
To be entirely honest, if I could have all the money I've spent back (and my trunk space
)...and go back to a NON noisy OEM amp that put out just a LITTLE more power in XM/Ipod mode...I probably wouldn't have ever messed with the system. I ride with the windows down on the highway so I need to be able to crank it loud enough to hear over road noise. So in my case, my aftermarket stuff is great and serves my purpose. For you the stock speakers sound awesome. I also kinda don't feel like the oem speakers push hard enough to really NEED extra deadener BUT that said...I could see how since they're not very loud, adding deadener to keep ALL the sound coming back into the cab would be good. Either way...different strokes. No big deal.
J.

ps. i have a STOCK system. i will be upgrading it (with deadner only). im going the IB route, my setup will be following few others on here (IHC, neibur, pholms, etc...)
back on topic, glad you got this figured out OP! others will appreciate your feedback since only a few members have experienced this problem....and can we not clutter this thread no more with arguing(it's not going to help any, lol).
future members will "search" for this amp problem and see all this other "stuff" about the stock systems efficiency. Im not taking sides, I'm just going the route that i trust the most
I just want to clarify one thing for Steve and then i am done. Much of his argument seems to be based upon cost. I was able to sit back and research what others have done and learn fron their mistakes and successes. My system is now DONE. I feel no need for any other upgrades at this point. If i subtract the isimple i am all in for $800.00. Considering the costs of performance mods for this car it is a screaming deal. And i am also confident that alll would prefer my system even subless over anything with the stock drivers/amplification.
Jeez Steve...you get pretty friggin fired up to prove a point. The stock speakers are good enough for you, doesn't mean they are good enough for everyone.
I realize that and perhaps some day they will not be good enough for me as well but right now I am quite satisfied with them. I also pointed out in my original post that if anyone tried this mod and felt they needed to continue upgrading then by all means. I just thought it was useful to point out that there were tangible benefits to be had with very little money and for some (like myself) they would amount to a whole lot of savings and an improved-upon stock system.
To be entirely honest, if I could have all the money I've spent back (and my trunk space
)...and go back to a NON noisy OEM amp that put out just a LITTLE more power in XM/Ipod mode...I probably wouldn't have ever messed with the system.
I ride with the windows down on the highway so I need to be able to crank it loud enough to hear over road noise. So in my case, my aftermarket stuff is great and serves my purpose. For you the stock speakers sound awesome. I also kinda don't feel like the oem speakers push hard enough to really NEED extra deadener BUT that said...I could see how since they're not very loud, adding deadener to keep ALL the sound coming back into the cab would be good. Either way...different strokes. No big deal.
J.
I realize that and perhaps some day they will not be good enough for me as well but right now I am quite satisfied with them. I also pointed out in my original post that if anyone tried this mod and felt they needed to continue upgrading then by all means. I just thought it was useful to point out that there were tangible benefits to be had with very little money and for some (like myself) they would amount to a whole lot of savings and an improved-upon stock system.
To be entirely honest, if I could have all the money I've spent back (and my trunk space
)...and go back to a NON noisy OEM amp that put out just a LITTLE more power in XM/Ipod mode...I probably wouldn't have ever messed with the system. I ride with the windows down on the highway so I need to be able to crank it loud enough to hear over road noise. So in my case, my aftermarket stuff is great and serves my purpose. For you the stock speakers sound awesome. I also kinda don't feel like the oem speakers push hard enough to really NEED extra deadener BUT that said...I could see how since they're not very loud, adding deadener to keep ALL the sound coming back into the cab would be good. Either way...different strokes. No big deal.
J.

ps. i have a STOCK system. i will be upgrading it (with deadner only). im going the IB route, my setup will be following few others on here (IHC, neibur, pholms, etc...)
back on topic, glad you got this figured out OP! others will appreciate your feedback since only a few members have experienced this problem....and can we not clutter this thread no more with arguing(it's not going to help any, lol).
future members will "search" for this amp problem and see all this other "stuff" about the stock systems efficiency. Im not taking sides, I'm just going the route that i trust the most

IHC, I sort of look forward to seeing these outrageous claims I have made (not in a spiteful sense) but it may take me a little while to address whatever it is you think you will find as I am fairly busy today (working, house shopping, chauffeuring the uncle, eating, sleeping, etc.) (jk about the eating, sleeping part
... but seriously I need some sleep
)
I just want to clarify one thing for Steve and then i am done. Much of his argument seems to be based upon cost. I was able to sit back and research what others have done and learn fron their mistakes and successes. My system is now DONE. I feel no need for any other upgrades at this point. If i subtract the isimple i am all in for $800.00. Considering the costs of performance mods for this car it is a screaming deal. And i am also confident that alll would prefer my system even subless over anything with the stock drivers/amplification.
takin care of Business in
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From: Kansas City, MO
@ this thread haha....i agree the stock TL setup is pretty nice....to the factory amp/speakers/wires I added a CLARION EQS746 and the sound is just AMAZING !!! got my lows back and the bass is enough to create severe rattle....and all of this on a stock setup
Well I appreciate the comment. I am not fond of having an undesirable tone myself. Unfortunately I am human and my emotions sometimes get the better of yours truly. I will refrain from having such tone in the future. Much of my frustration was a result of my thread which I thought would benefit other TL owners got all shit on by the MMA/car//audio guru. I even took the time to think before writing and all ruined. Anyway. I am glad some people here can appreciate my experience.
Joined: Sep 2008
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All good man...nice response!
Honestly...like I said, if my stock system had been just a BIT louder, I would have been happy with it just the way it was (ok, maybe adding a 10" for some boom!).
J.
Honestly...like I said, if my stock system had been just a BIT louder, I would have been happy with it just the way it was (ok, maybe adding a 10" for some boom!).
J.
Well I appreciate the comment. I am not fond of having an undesirable tone myself. Unfortunately I am human and my emotions sometimes get the better of yours truly. I will refrain from having such tone in the future. Much of my frustration was a result of my thread which I thought would benefit other TL owners got all shit on by the MMA/car//audio guru. I even took the time to think before writing and all ruined. Anyway. I am glad some people here can appreciate my experience.
Okay, I have spent countless hours weighing the pros and cons of various upgrade possibilities while trying to keep the work and cost involved to a minimum. I believe I have worked it out now. For those who have the route of replacing the stock speakers you probably do not want to read this thread.
I have made this thread for guys like me who have recently purchased their TL or never bothered to mess with audio upgrades until now. Personally, I felt a need to upgrade the stock system due only to a lack of clarity, presence in the bass, and usable volume (possibly because the stock system already sounds pretty good but more likely because I have never heard a car system that blew it away until now).
The hardest part of this particular upgrade is properly matching the subwoofer you will use with the right enclosure. For anyone with experience that shouldn't be an issue, but for a novice my advice would be to keep it simple for now and stick a box in the trunk that the subwoofer is designed to work well with (manuals usually have this infomation and if deviating from recommended enclosure do so only slightly). A regular best buy 12" should be sufficient also make sure you power the sub adequately. Taking the signal from the stock sub wires is the easiest thing to do and you should retain level control on the head unit. Also, the quality of the signal is very good when you have the right components in place.
A Best Buy 12 might be adequate for you but you have no idea what other peoples' standards are. You don't qualify the quality of the signal being good. You make a vague statement.
This upgrade done right will allow you to turn the bass down on the head unit while maintaining a good (I would call it optimal) amount of bass. This also helps your stock amp and you will notice that you can turn the volume higher without the sound getting overly harsh. Unhooking the stock subwoofer is my recommendation for a variety of reasons but this also will allow you to turn the volume up more without much noticeable distortion. There you have increased the quality of your bass.
This upgrade takes advantage of the stock systems already professionally calibrated tuning but improves upon front stage by increasing focus, mid-bass, and thus clarity. Since the stock door speakers are full range it is my perception that this upgrade also improves the transition from the door speakers to the tweeters creating a real perception of a stage Im on the dash. Because the clarity improves so much you will find that you can easily turn the treble down on the head unit to -1, -2, even -3 without losing that very important perception of clarity and sound stage. My opinion is that the stage has become very wide (at least the width of the car) and it is also at head level or slightly higher. I was surprised how much my girlfriend could tell the difference in the sound and she agreed it was similar to listening on her nice Energy speakers (bought with her house as part of the buit in home theatre setup with overhead projector and motorized 100" screen in HD).
More outrageous claims. You really believe a piece of rubber stuck to the door gives a wider and higher stage. You really think it makes the stock speakers sound like aftermarket home speakers in a home environment? Crazy.

I just listened to "comfortably numb" on volume 38 and can homestly state its one of the best listening experiences I have had in a long time. The stage is clear and stable. Gilmours guitar tone sound amazing For 20 bucks in dynamat or other quality deadener you can easily double the sq on the stock system and zero rattles that I can notice.
Double the SQ with stock everything and a piece of dynamat on the door.
Originally Posted by stevemk07;13892437
Update. [B
Update. [B
I think getting new components would be a waste of money. [/b]If any does deaden the doors with the stockers you can get pretty close to flat from 160-200hz up to 3k by turning both bass and treble to -5. I have to turn the sub gain up a bit so that theres enough bass but the sound is so clear and accurate. Theres a slight peek at 1k to give you that pop of the snare.

What about the range from 160 down to the subwoofer, don't care about that range?
Well after considering why I could now turn the treble to +6 and crank the system without experiencing listening fatigue while listening to xm I realized that evening the response or smoothing the transition between the woofer and the tweeter basically took all the emphasis off the 8k+ frequencies which is where most of the information of lossy formats is lost so what you then have in the stock system is a system that basically emphasizes the low qualitu of low quality format sources (fm, xm, mp3, etc.). By boosting the perceived output of the woofer the information in whatever format your listening to is not emphasizing the 8k+ region anymore but you have more accurate and clear representation of the original recording.
First, I'm glad you are enjoying the fruits of your labor.
Your point on the sub is very valid. The stocker sucks, has little output capability, and just doesn't sound very good. Making a blanket statement like "a best buy 12" box and sub should do the trick" is crap. You don't know what each person is looking for, thus you can't make that statement. You just can't.
However, It would be for the greater good if you stopped relaying what honestly is misguided, at best, information. Adding sound deadening to the doors with everything else stock will give a negligible improvement, especially in the quantity you said you put on. The point of sound deadening is 2 fold. 1) it lowers the resonant frequency of the panel to which it is attached to the point where the speaker mounted on the same panel can not vibrate the panel, thus losing less energy dissipated in the panel. 2) if you seal all of the access holes in the door you can completely isolate the front of the speaker from the back wave of the speaker helping with cancellation and thus helping with phase and alignment issues.
The problem with what you propose is; on point 1, the stock speaker/power doesn't really have the capability to lose much into the resonating panel. The speaker cone just doesn't move that much. For point 2, 2 sq ft / door isn't enough to isolate front from back. If you did say, 15 sq ft per door I could see a marginal improvement, but it won't do anything to the stock tweeters.
The stock tweeters are less harsh because the treble is turned down. However, it is still a crappy, harsh, low quality tweeter. Now, with the treble turned down it is less harsh, but you also lose quite a bit of detail up top. This has nothing to do with the small amount of deadening in the doors.
Secondly, the mids sound better because you turned the bass down too. You are no longer asking them to play in a range that they don't do well because you now have a real sub handling the bottom end.
Finally, the "professional calibration" is crap. It was professionally calibrated to make the absolutely terrible, cheap stock speaker sound at least "kinda" respectable.
Even if you don't want crazy power (yet), that's fine. You can make some nice improvements on a moderate power upgrade. One of the major issues with the stock system is the amp itself. The DSP is built into the amp, not the head unit. Granted, the h/u is very low level, but with proper component selection you can avoid most issues that might arise from that. You would be better off taking a good moderate powered amp (say 40-50 watts/channel rms) getting signal before the factory amp to eliminate all the DSP crap and then install a speaker (component if you prefer) that is a solid performer with flat-ish frequency response. Granted, this will cost more than $25 in sound deadening, but the improvement will be significant. I'd even suggest deadening the door while you have it off to replace speakers.
I don't really want to come off as an ass, but also, don't really care if I do. Adding 2 sq ft of deadening to your door had a negligible effect on the performance of the mid. It NO effect on the tweeter. Most, if not all of the changes you perceived stem from the EQ/DSP changes you made, and by adding the sub. Things like this thread are how mis-information gets out there and becomes internet law.
edit:
XM sounds like shit in this car for the same reason it sounds like shit in all other cars. XM has shitty, compressed, lossy signal. I have more money and time wrapped up in my car than I care to admit and XM still sounds like shit.
Your point on the sub is very valid. The stocker sucks, has little output capability, and just doesn't sound very good. Making a blanket statement like "a best buy 12" box and sub should do the trick" is crap. You don't know what each person is looking for, thus you can't make that statement. You just can't.
However, It would be for the greater good if you stopped relaying what honestly is misguided, at best, information. Adding sound deadening to the doors with everything else stock will give a negligible improvement, especially in the quantity you said you put on. The point of sound deadening is 2 fold. 1) it lowers the resonant frequency of the panel to which it is attached to the point where the speaker mounted on the same panel can not vibrate the panel, thus losing less energy dissipated in the panel. 2) if you seal all of the access holes in the door you can completely isolate the front of the speaker from the back wave of the speaker helping with cancellation and thus helping with phase and alignment issues.
The problem with what you propose is; on point 1, the stock speaker/power doesn't really have the capability to lose much into the resonating panel. The speaker cone just doesn't move that much. For point 2, 2 sq ft / door isn't enough to isolate front from back. If you did say, 15 sq ft per door I could see a marginal improvement, but it won't do anything to the stock tweeters.
The stock tweeters are less harsh because the treble is turned down. However, it is still a crappy, harsh, low quality tweeter. Now, with the treble turned down it is less harsh, but you also lose quite a bit of detail up top. This has nothing to do with the small amount of deadening in the doors.
Secondly, the mids sound better because you turned the bass down too. You are no longer asking them to play in a range that they don't do well because you now have a real sub handling the bottom end.
Finally, the "professional calibration" is crap. It was professionally calibrated to make the absolutely terrible, cheap stock speaker sound at least "kinda" respectable.
Even if you don't want crazy power (yet), that's fine. You can make some nice improvements on a moderate power upgrade. One of the major issues with the stock system is the amp itself. The DSP is built into the amp, not the head unit. Granted, the h/u is very low level, but with proper component selection you can avoid most issues that might arise from that. You would be better off taking a good moderate powered amp (say 40-50 watts/channel rms) getting signal before the factory amp to eliminate all the DSP crap and then install a speaker (component if you prefer) that is a solid performer with flat-ish frequency response. Granted, this will cost more than $25 in sound deadening, but the improvement will be significant. I'd even suggest deadening the door while you have it off to replace speakers.
I don't really want to come off as an ass, but also, don't really care if I do. Adding 2 sq ft of deadening to your door had a negligible effect on the performance of the mid. It NO effect on the tweeter. Most, if not all of the changes you perceived stem from the EQ/DSP changes you made, and by adding the sub. Things like this thread are how mis-information gets out there and becomes internet law.
edit:
XM sounds like shit in this car for the same reason it sounds like shit in all other cars. XM has shitty, compressed, lossy signal. I have more money and time wrapped up in my car than I care to admit and XM still sounds like shit.
By a piece of dynamat...

You jumped into my 10" midbass thread with this:
When someone said the only thing stock speakers are good for is paperweights, you responded with this:
A couple people responded disagreeing with you which I can prove with math and you responded negatively with this:
You guys are right. My system is a piece of crap because my puny mid bass woofers ate only good to hold paper down and do not have the same abilities of a hair dryer. Stupid me for thinking the point of audio gear was listening pleasure. Good luck with your endless struggles.
Team Owner
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Warning.
Steve,
I know you're new to Acurazine, but this conversation has gotten way out of hand. One thing we look down on is name calling and conversations getting personal.
Let's tone things WAY down here.
IHC-please do the same.
Thank you.
I know you're new to Acurazine, but this conversation has gotten way out of hand. One thing we look down on is name calling and conversations getting personal.
Let's tone things WAY down here.
IHC-please do the same.
Thank you.
I agree and apologize for my comment.









