New Sub+Amp Installed finally!

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Old 06-13-2011, 12:20 AM
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New Sub+Amp Installed finally!

Finally hooked up my Alpine Type R and Alpine Mrp-m500.
It seems like it should be louder. but i dont have my amp turned all the way up. Since the Amp is 500 watts and the sub is 600 it should be ok to turn the amp all the way up?
I have it in a sealed box maybe i should get a ported?
Also when i turn my headlights on the audio screen gets lighter and the navigation loses its color. Should i buy a capacitor?
Old 06-13-2011, 10:01 AM
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Which way do you have the box pointing?

Give it some more juice, but don't let it distort.

Do your big 3. You should not need anything with a 500W amp.
Old 06-13-2011, 10:41 PM
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Originally Posted by jda123
Which way do you have the box pointing?

Give it some more juice, but don't let it distort.

Do your big 3. You should not need anything with a 500W amp.
i got it pointed towards my trunk. i tried to point it through the whole in the seats but the plastic lock thing shakes and rattles.
Old 06-13-2011, 10:46 PM
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Port it

More juice won't do anything..it could also be your midbass response that's lacking.
Old 06-13-2011, 10:58 PM
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Do you have a adjustable LOC? Maybe that's all the way down..

Leaky box?

Head Unit settings too far down?

Midbass sucks....This is a problem until you upgrade the fronts. My w6's sounded shitty until I did.
Old 06-13-2011, 11:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Trunk Monkey
Do you have a adjustable LOC? Maybe that's all the way down..

Leaky box?

Head Unit settings too far down?

Midbass sucks....This is a problem until you upgrade the fronts. My w6's sounded shitty until I did.
could be box. prob shitty box. head unit sub setting almost up and the bass almost all the way up
Old 06-13-2011, 11:31 PM
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could be both
Old 06-15-2011, 09:45 PM
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I have always used a good capacitor on every car even if its 200watts RMS. At 500RMS you are crazy not to have a capacitor.
Old 06-15-2011, 10:19 PM
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I've never needed a cap even when I was feeding my 12W6s 1,100 watts in their sealed box. Maybe if that was 1,100 watts from an A/B amp but just about every sub amp is class D now. I'm currently using only 200 watts total for both subs and it would be silly to run a cap for that kind of power. It uses less power than the rear window defroster and it's not constant.
Old 06-16-2011, 09:42 AM
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Originally Posted by drcoke
I have always used a good capacitor on every car even if its 200watts RMS. At 500RMS you are crazy not to have a capacitor.
What do you feel the cap helped with?
Old 06-16-2011, 11:48 AM
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Doing the big three will be more beneficial than adding a capacitor.
Old 06-16-2011, 12:19 PM
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Do you have any type of sub control knob? I have one on my 3Sixty, and I'm glad I do. I just upgraded my sub amp, running an Alpine MRD-M605 at 2 ohms on (2) RF 12's (getting 300w each) in a sealed box. Incredible bass! My subs are pointing up so they fire into the rear deck. My biggest problem now is the dreaded rear shelf rattle. I'll be breaking that down soon and adding more sound deadener to that area. I get a lot of rattle right where the cover meets the rear window.
Old 06-17-2011, 10:31 PM
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Originally Posted by jda123
What do you feel the cap helped with?
I did it so the rest of the car don't suffer from not getting enough power and reducing stress on the alternator. I have had issues with light dim when sub hits hard.
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