When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Looking for an upgrade to the stock sound. Here is what I've come up with so far. Will be getting all this installed at a shop, as I usually work very long hours. My budget is around $1000, give or take depending on how much install costs. I was planning on buying all the gear myself online and having the shop install everything.
I have the sub from a previous car, so don't need to pay for that. I've heard the TL produces a pretty flat signal. I had the RF 360.2 sound processor in my previous car, and not sure if this car would need a processor.
Looking to bridge 4 channels for the components, run 1 channel to the sub. And keep the center channel and rear fill on the stock amp.
Want to get driver and passenger doors deadened with the above listed material. Anything cheaper with equivalent results?
Any other gear I should be looking at, or anything I am missing? Thanks
Here's a thought. I think $1000 sounds better in your bank account. Especially, since the stock one is more than adequate. Unless you plan on living in your car.
If you're not dead set on JL Audio for the amp, take a look at this Alpine PDX. It's pretty small, very high quality, same or better output than the JL, and $150 lighter on the wallet.
Thanks for the suggestion mpscan.No, I am not dead set on the JL amp. I haven't used the ID 12" sub in over 5 years, but if I remember correctly it does not need a ton of power. Was hoping to use it with box it's already in.
Sounds like a good plan. Do you still have the 3sixty.2? If so, I would still use it for the other capabilities even though the HU does put out a flat signal. I just replaced the stock front speakers last week with JL C5 components and the improvement is huge. The stock system is decent and better than most factory systems, but there is still a ton of room for improvement if you want good bass and clarity.
Sounds like a good plan. Do you still have the 3sixty.2? If so, I would still use it for the other capabilities even though the HU does put out a flat signal. I just replaced the stock front speakers last week with JL C5 components and the improvement is huge. The stock system is decent and better than most factory systems, but there is still a ton of room for improvement if you want good bass and clarity.
Yes, I still have the 360.2, but it's pretty old. Not sure if I trust it in a new build.
Where is your amp installed dracura? Did you have to use spacers to get the C5 to fit?
Right now the amp is just in the trunk. I'm going to build a panel along the back of the year seat to mount and conceal it. I did use a 3/4" spacer and also made the hole in the door bigger, but I didn't measure the exact diameter. The white plastic oem spacer is also 3/4" if you're concerned about clearance on that side. It was easy to do, but you can tell I was a first timer. Once the door panel is back on, my mass of deadener and ensolite is concealed...
I'm using a JL JX400/4D. It's putting out about 70W per channel. I'm bridging the second two channels for a sub.[/QUOTE]
also curious if you needed a spacer or to cut metal out to make the JL system fit.
did you put the tweeters in the oem location? how hard was it?
i currently have a JBL system that is much better over stock and was a relatively easy plug and play, but i've always kept my eye out for putting in JL or image dynamics components if the chance came. i just don't know how much work is involved to get them in (my JBL system was pretty easy which is why i chose it)
I will get back to you on the tweeters tomorrow. Right now they're connected and just temporarily surface mounted, but I'm planning to flush mount in the stock location tomorrow. My plan is to cut out the center of the existing tweeter grill and put the flush mount cup in there. Just need to paint the oem grills jet black to match the JL. I'll post a picture once they're done in the next couple of days.
I will get back to you on the tweeters tomorrow. Right now they're connected and just temporarily surface mounted, but I'm planning to flush mount in the stock location tomorrow. My plan is to cut out the center of the existing tweeter grill and put the flush mount cup in there. Just need to paint the oem grills jet black to match the JL. I'll post a picture once they're done in the next couple of days.
thanks, that's what i did for my current JBL tweeters. i cut off part of the bottom of the tweeter and used silicone sealant adhesive to mount the new tweeter to the underside of the oem tweeter. i was actually able to keep the top of the oem grill intact so it looks oem.
what about your components (doors)? what extra install work was needed?
Here are pics of the modification I made to the stock tweeter grill. I used a utility blade to cut out a bigger hole where the stock tweeter was. It was just big enough to insert the JL tweeter flush mount cup. Then used the metal backstrap that secures the mounting cup to whatever surface you're using. After that, I just snapped the tweeter into the grill, hooked up the wires and pressed the grills back into place. Next time I have the door apart I will take a picture, but there's not much to see - just deadener and some ensolite.
that seems pretty simple. thanks for all the pics!
so for the doors, you didn't need a spacer or to cut out a larger hole to mount the speakers? it seems to be pretty plug and play and i'm sure the quality is great. where did you get your set from (link?)?
that seems pretty simple. thanks for all the pics!
so for the doors, you didn't need a spacer or to cut out a larger hole to mount the speakers? it seems to be pretty plug and play and i'm sure the quality is great. where did you get your set from (link?)?
No problem. For the doors I DID have to use a 3/4 inch spacer and cut the hole bigger with tin snips. The 3/4" spacer replaced the factory white plastic 3/4" spacer.
The sub signal is very adequate for a box when using the pre-amp signal.
To the OP:
Keep the resistance low on the sub (i.e. short cable, thick gauge). This is why I am keeping my amp in the trunk. This keeps the damping factor up which is good for subs.
Dampening the inside of the sub box also helps to eliminate coloration of the sub-bass/low-bass output (i.e. natural sound).
I am in NJ craigslist is a great resource I found. You could save 80% off msrp. If you have a general idea what you want it could be a good idea to watch it once a day. Whats also nice is that there are some old school items which are hard to get (IE alpine V-12 class T amp)
Originally Posted by ogawk
Looking for an upgrade to the stock sound. Here is what I've come up with so far. Will be getting all this installed at a shop, as I usually work very long hours. My budget is around $1000, give or take depending on how much install costs. I was planning on buying all the gear myself online and having the shop install everything.
I have the sub from a previous car, so don't need to pay for that. I've heard the TL produces a pretty flat signal. I had the RF 360.2 sound processor in my previous car, and not sure if this car would need a processor.
Looking to bridge 4 channels for the components, run 1 channel to the sub. And keep the center channel and rear fill on the stock amp.
Want to get driver and passenger doors deadened with the above listed material. Anything cheaper with equivalent results?
Any other gear I should be looking at, or anything I am missing? Thanks
There few things I would change in your setuip, first of, I'm not sure if you are ware of this, but this amp of alpine PDX are well known to get super stupid hot, and catch on fire.. look it up no joke. 2. tweeter location, I would try to make my car look at stock as possible, I'm not sure if you park in the garage or where, but being noticed by equipment, in your car people get the idea of something big in the trunk.
I like you SQ sub, that Id sub is great and does it very well with little power...
Other than that, I have no idea how your car may sound with being over powered speakers vs your stock amplification to oem.
other than that,,, as long as you are happy, we are happy
I had my sub in a small sealed enclosure at the very rear drivers side facing forward.... To me it sounded good there.. used the cargo nettingvthat comes w car to keep it there... Something to try if bored
Wow that's great the price for the amp seems to be kinda high. But, then again it's going to be in your car and I really hope you get year and years of good use out of it men.
Sounds great to me! I did not know about the overhearing on the amp. Didn't run into that when researching it. Will keep my fingers crossed!
Still some sub rattle from the rear deck. Let's see if I can live with it...
Much rattling can be solved by placing something soft between the window and deck cover. Also helps to deaden some of the flimsy sheets... Reduces resonances which pull the sound towards the rear.
