I'm not to great with audio installs. But know enough to get to get the job done . 2004 TL - Trying to add a 10" sub to the stock system. Using a Kicker mono amp(CX600.1).
I've searched the forum and everyone seems to be tapping from the stock center rear subwoofer location. However after speaking with Kicker technical support. They recommended tapping into the left and right rear speaker using RCA cables and setting the input level on the amp to "HI". I also have a Axxess AX-adct2 AX-ADCT2 [AX-ADCT2] Axxess Integrate, Comprehensive Interface Products laying around that I can use as well and tap into the stock subwoofer location. But I don't think I need it since the amp supports high and low level signals. Just a little confused what would be the best route and how to wire this up. Can anyone provide me so guidance?

 

Well kicker is full of shit, and I will tell you why, if you tap in to the back left and right speaker, than you wont get no bass, these speakers are not made for any midbass output, they are only doing voice/vocal, what you need is CL7 i think its a converter and tap in to the oem sub output...

 

I just finished installing 1 12" in my 04 and I just used a LOC and taped into the oem sub wires. This way you can also control output through stock HU with the sub adjustment. I am very pleased with it especially having quick control through the HU. I'd say tap into the sub wires. Although both ways will work.

 

On my 07 the stock sub output is attenuated down low, not sure about other years. I initially tapped in to the stock sub wiring but ultimately have tapped in to the preamp signal going to the stock amp. This signal is unattenuated and provides much higher quality bass but you also need to account for the low voltage by either using an amp or other device which has balanced input or by inserting a line driver near the head unit.

I believe on all the 3g TLs the signal to the door speakers produce no output below 40Hz, which may or may not concern you. It does me so I would not use those signals for sub duty.

 

The front left and right preamp signal is what you want if you're doing a front and sub install. It's flat and I know it goes down to at least 12hz. This would be a low level input and may require a line driver depending on the amp.

The stock subwoofer high level output is fine, at least on the '06 and dips to at least 20hz. Not sure if it's attenuated or not. It will allow the use of the stock sub level control.

Using any high level (post amp) outputs as signal for mids and tweeters will result in a hiss you will never be able to get rid of. It can work with the sub since the lowpass filter cuts it off before hiss can be a problem.

 

I thought I remembered you saying the front left and right signals cut off at 40Hz and I thought I had confirmed it myself but I switched around the rcas to have one of the front speakers provide my sub signal and you are right, they play below 40Hz.

Afterwards i did check the sub signal and it played 12 Hz too, although my single 10" sub couldn't do much with it.

Speaking of sub systems, I haven't tackled the IB project yet, and have actually been considering getting a miniDSP or two before doing that. I had set out to order one for $115 or whatever it is but by the time you add in the minidc for car use, shipping, and exchange rate, it was just under $200. I had only barely been able to convince myself to buy it at the listed price so I backed out. lol I hate spending money on myself, especially luxury items such as car audio. I guess I will just have to enjoy my system until I am bored again. I also only have a small interval of time before the pool goes up and I have nowhere to work on my car securely. Maybe the couple months the pool is up will be enough time to convince myself to get all this stuff done.

 

Not sure why Kicker told you that. I do car audio install for a living and have done several 3G TLs incliding my own 05. Grab the signal at the factory sub, as stated by someone else, this will give you sub control from the factory radio. Im not sure what you meant by run RCAs but set the input to high level. If your using a line out converter, AKA a high/low adapter you need to set it low level, because RCA audio signal is low level. The only time you use high level is if your using the harness that comes with the amp that taps directly into the speakers with no use of RCA cables. I dont believe the 600.1 comes with one though. Not to mention low level is a way cleaner better sounding signal.

 

It just cliqued...Kicker probably told you that because they arent familiar with the vehicle. Technically with either a high level harness or a line out converter your supposed to tap into both left and right audio signals. That way, if you set the audio balance to one side, the sub wont fade out. The difference is with a factory sub output it has its own control, hence the subwoofer volume on the radio. Simply twist the 2 negative wires together on your line out converter, and the 2 positive ones, then tap into the corresponding wires on the factory sub and run your RCAs to the amp.

 

I always feel guilty after buying things I don't need, especially car audio. What parts are you lacking for the IB setup? You could always do your 10 IB just to get a taste of it. To be honest you might like it enough that you don't want to do the 15s.

I just installed my new sub amps tonight. 800w to each sub. I thought it wouldn't be enough. I was wrong. It made my vision go blurry, and I itched on my arms and head from it moving the hair. I immediately realized I got caught up on DIYMA and falsely convinced myself I needed that much power. Now I feel bad because I could have saved money on just one amp. Off topic but these Alpine PDR65 650w amp (820w birth sheet) puts the JL HD750/1 to shame and I really like JL.

Let us know how the IB setup comes along once you start. I'll be glad to help if I can. Now that I think about it, if your current sealed 10" (it's sealed, right?) is about enough output, the pair of 15s might be a waste. A single 12" sub that's meant for a small sealed box (low Qts) might be just what you need and save you money. Then again those GTOs are so cheap and good that you might as well.

 

Hey Steve, check this out just posted FS 4hrs ago. Your GTO 15" sub for $75 brand new and tons of other items. Amps, Woofers, speakers, ALL Going, JBL, IMAGE DYNAMICS, ARC AUDIO - Car Audio | DiyMobileAudio.com | Car Stereo Forum

 

You know, the output of the sealed 10 is enough for me just about all the time but I also like the idea of freeing up more trunk space. I help out a small bunch of people with grocery shopping and such so it would be nice to be able to fit more in there.

Thanks for the heads up but cash flow dictates no more purchases for the moment. Been fixing up my car (210,000km) but that is going well and it has become fun to drive again. If I had unlimited budget I would absolutely purchase a couple of 15s but I have been out of work for a few months now.

I'll keep you posted when I do get it started, hopefully it won't be too long. I also appreciate your offer to help.

 

You should try the preamp signal sometime. As I said earlier I have tried both and the preamp signal is very noticeably better.

 

Does anyone have a good quality LOC to recommend? Thanks.

 

Maybe its time to look in to DSP Processor