HFL (bluetooth) issue
#1
HFL (bluetooth) issue
My 2006 TL got HFL issue. It is pretty famous "booting up" problem. According to the suggestion in this community, I replaced the 220uF capacitor. But the system worked for couple of times only. Left it over night, it went back to the "booting up" again.
Since the system can work perfectly, there should be no issue on firmware or software part. Something build up charge?
Anybody has successful story?
Thanks,
Since the system can work perfectly, there should be no issue on firmware or software part. Something build up charge?
Anybody has successful story?
Thanks,
#2
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Yes-- mine has worked perfectly since I bought a new HFL for @ $160 from oemacuraparts.com and installed it just under 2 years ago.
Otherwise, a few members have been able to get their units working by baking the circuit board @ 385*F-- read from post #507 to the end at: https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-audio-bluetooth-electronics-navigation-94/bluetooth-fails-792642/.
Otherwise, a few members have been able to get their units working by baking the circuit board @ 385*F-- read from post #507 to the end at: https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-audio-bluetooth-electronics-navigation-94/bluetooth-fails-792642/.
The following 2 users liked this post by Will Y.:
LoveMyTL-S (07-25-2013),
sauceja (06-22-2013)
#4
Problem solved. I think most of the module did not have component failure. The only problem is failed soldering. Re-solder every spot if you can and the problem most likely is gone.
The following users liked this post:
LoveMyTL-S (07-25-2013)
#6
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Yes-- mine has worked perfectly since I bought a new HFL for @ $160 from oemacuraparts.com and installed it just under 2 years ago.
Otherwise, a few members have been able to get their units working by baking the circuit board @ 385*F-- read from post #507 to the end at: https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=792642.
Otherwise, a few members have been able to get their units working by baking the circuit board @ 385*F-- read from post #507 to the end at: https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=792642.
Yea, I am gonna try this. Better than just unplugging it and leaving it there not to ever be used again.
Here is post # 507
I finally fixed mine! (I just hope it stays fixed!) Ok, after some thorough troubleshooting, and lots of reading on this thread, I decided to bake my handsfree bluetooth link in the damn oven!! I know, it may sound crazy, but it worked!
Here is how I came to my wacky conclusion: After reading and reading, dang near everyones hfl at one point or another stopped working, wheather it be altogether dead, on, but not responding, or, like mine, on, responding, but not pairing. This was my 3rd go at it, and I'm stubborn, so I really wanted to figure out if there was ANY way to fix it instead of paying for a new one when CLEARLY Acura should be footing the bill for this obvious design flaw of this SAFETY feature. I took the hf assy out of the bezel, let it hang down and gently pushed, pulled, held, bent, twisted, turned, & tilted it, all the while trying to pair my droid 4 (and my gf's BB). My steering wheel controls would sometimes stop responding altogether during this process. I connected and disconected the green connector, pulled apart the 2 circuit boards (numerous times), which sometimes got me back the steering wheel control buttons, but NEVER successfully paired either phone. THEN, I discovered that when I put pressure on the capacitor on the larger circuit board, (this is the 'infamous' cap that many have replaced) the hfl 'woke up' and made this wierd scratchy noise. (still didn't work, but it reacted when I held slight pressure on it sideways) I thought I had it there, but still couldn't get it to work. Then I moved one spot over to the coil? power supply? next to it. Again, when I held slight pressure on it, the hfl reacted, still not working, but really got me thinking about another post that I read about on here about solder joints. I thought to myself, "self, this could definitely be the problem!" So, I remembered reading (to many posts on this thread, I can't find it again now!) that some folks had luck repairing all types of electronics by baking (or heating with a heat gun) the circuit board(s). This seemed to make sense in this case, as you would not be able to see a tiny, hairline, intermittant bad solder joint on these boards, and when I held pressure on certain components, I had varying results. So, I figured what the heck do I have to lose, it doesn't work now. I like the oven idea much better than the heat gun because the oven would provide even heating as opposed to the directional heating of the gun. I put aluminum foil on a cookie sheet, made little foil 'balls' to raise the boards up off the sheet for even heating and placed the 2 in the preheated 385 degree oven for 9 minutes. I don't know why, but I placed another piece of foil, like a cover over the 2 boards, (not touching the boards) but I didn't want the heat going directly on them, just evenly around them. The idea that the solder would melt and 'reconnect', repairing any potentially bad solder joints seemed to just make sense, and what do you know, IT WORKED! I plugged it back in and it went to the setup menu, then to the phone setup menu, and bam, paired up immediately! She's still hanging there but I talked on it for about 2 hours, 1 hour on my way to work and other hour on the way home. This MIGHT actually explain why some people had good results replacing the cap and some didn't. The cap may not have not necessarily been the cause, it may have been the cap's solder joint or a faulty solder joint of another component.
I really hope some of you have some luck baking your bluetooth! Make some brownies while you're at it! I will try to keep checking in to answer any questions and see if anyone else has any luck with this.
Here is how I came to my wacky conclusion: After reading and reading, dang near everyones hfl at one point or another stopped working, wheather it be altogether dead, on, but not responding, or, like mine, on, responding, but not pairing. This was my 3rd go at it, and I'm stubborn, so I really wanted to figure out if there was ANY way to fix it instead of paying for a new one when CLEARLY Acura should be footing the bill for this obvious design flaw of this SAFETY feature. I took the hf assy out of the bezel, let it hang down and gently pushed, pulled, held, bent, twisted, turned, & tilted it, all the while trying to pair my droid 4 (and my gf's BB). My steering wheel controls would sometimes stop responding altogether during this process. I connected and disconected the green connector, pulled apart the 2 circuit boards (numerous times), which sometimes got me back the steering wheel control buttons, but NEVER successfully paired either phone. THEN, I discovered that when I put pressure on the capacitor on the larger circuit board, (this is the 'infamous' cap that many have replaced) the hfl 'woke up' and made this wierd scratchy noise. (still didn't work, but it reacted when I held slight pressure on it sideways) I thought I had it there, but still couldn't get it to work. Then I moved one spot over to the coil? power supply? next to it. Again, when I held slight pressure on it, the hfl reacted, still not working, but really got me thinking about another post that I read about on here about solder joints. I thought to myself, "self, this could definitely be the problem!" So, I remembered reading (to many posts on this thread, I can't find it again now!) that some folks had luck repairing all types of electronics by baking (or heating with a heat gun) the circuit board(s). This seemed to make sense in this case, as you would not be able to see a tiny, hairline, intermittant bad solder joint on these boards, and when I held pressure on certain components, I had varying results. So, I figured what the heck do I have to lose, it doesn't work now. I like the oven idea much better than the heat gun because the oven would provide even heating as opposed to the directional heating of the gun. I put aluminum foil on a cookie sheet, made little foil 'balls' to raise the boards up off the sheet for even heating and placed the 2 in the preheated 385 degree oven for 9 minutes. I don't know why, but I placed another piece of foil, like a cover over the 2 boards, (not touching the boards) but I didn't want the heat going directly on them, just evenly around them. The idea that the solder would melt and 'reconnect', repairing any potentially bad solder joints seemed to just make sense, and what do you know, IT WORKED! I plugged it back in and it went to the setup menu, then to the phone setup menu, and bam, paired up immediately! She's still hanging there but I talked on it for about 2 hours, 1 hour on my way to work and other hour on the way home. This MIGHT actually explain why some people had good results replacing the cap and some didn't. The cap may not have not necessarily been the cause, it may have been the cap's solder joint or a faulty solder joint of another component.
I really hope some of you have some luck baking your bluetooth! Make some brownies while you're at it! I will try to keep checking in to answer any questions and see if anyone else has any luck with this.
The following users liked this post:
LoveMyTL-S (07-25-2013)
#7
Baking it works!!!!
It actually worked by baking the electronic board!! I couldn't believe it. Thanks so much for the help from the Acurazine community. I owe you guys!!
Thanks and happy new year everyone!!
Thanks and happy new year everyone!!
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#9
I did this as well. Battery drain cost me a couple times. It is nice and if I can find someone parting out a car that I can get for cheap I will replace it. But I am not spending 200+ for it. Don't use it that much.
#10
My HFL failed on 08 Acura RDX. I went to the junkyard and got one from an 07 MDX different part numbers and has different outer case but from inside it is the same exact board and it worked!!
#11
#12
technique for both modules. Thanks for the tip!
#13
The infamous baking method
Hi forum,
I bought a used 2008 MDX and the previous owner reported the bluetooth module issue to me. I researched and found this forum. I already tried baking the module, carefully following all instructions that have been previously provided (lining with foil, little foil balls to prop up the unit, 385 for 9 mins, etc).
When I took the card out of the oven and allowed it to cool, two small pieces had popped off. I know nothing about circuit boards. These are small black spools with copper wire coils on them, and each one has two small metal contact points on the bottom of the spool that match two contact points on the card. I hadn't read anyone else reporting this issue, specifically. Any advice for me? Should I solder the spools down to their respective contact points? (If so, I need to find a friend to borrow a soldering iron from....)
Any friendly advice is appreciated!
Matt
I bought a used 2008 MDX and the previous owner reported the bluetooth module issue to me. I researched and found this forum. I already tried baking the module, carefully following all instructions that have been previously provided (lining with foil, little foil balls to prop up the unit, 385 for 9 mins, etc).
When I took the card out of the oven and allowed it to cool, two small pieces had popped off. I know nothing about circuit boards. These are small black spools with copper wire coils on them, and each one has two small metal contact points on the bottom of the spool that match two contact points on the card. I hadn't read anyone else reporting this issue, specifically. Any advice for me? Should I solder the spools down to their respective contact points? (If so, I need to find a friend to borrow a soldering iron from....)
Any friendly advice is appreciated!
Matt
#14
Yep, just solder them down. And good luck with baking.
I did mine, with hot air station and Flux. It worker for 2 weeks and died again.
So maybe worth a try, but looks like it's more internal that solder problem (kind of like older notebook Nvidia chips, baking fixed them only for couple weeks, and it was internal chip problem -bad design)
I did mine, with hot air station and Flux. It worker for 2 weeks and died again.
So maybe worth a try, but looks like it's more internal that solder problem (kind of like older notebook Nvidia chips, baking fixed them only for couple weeks, and it was internal chip problem -bad design)
#15
Senior Moderator
I don't know if i trust a guy that knows nothing about circuit boards with a soldering iron. I think it's dead Jim. Buy a new one and move on.
#16
When I took the card out of the oven and allowed it to cool, two small pieces had popped off. I know nothing about circuit boards. These are small black spools with copper wire coils on them, and each one has two small metal contact points on the bottom of the spool that match two contact points on the card. I hadn't read anyone else reporting this issue, specifically. Any advice for me? Should I solder the spools down to their respective contact points? (If so, I need to find a friend to borrow a soldering iron from....)
Pat
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