Dynamat!!!! Needed?
#1
Damn Right, Ima G!
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Dynamat!!!! Needed?
Hey guys i just purchased 2 W6 v.2 with jl 1000.1 amp and 300.4 amp in a custom box. Im also going to be changing the inside speakers but still dont know what to get. Now will dynamat be needed? is there alot of raddling in the trunk?
#2
2012 SH-AWD / Advanced
Yes, you definitely want to do a lot of sound deadening if you're looking for good SQ without a lot of rattle. Do the trunk, trunk lid, doors, and door panels at least. Also fill in all of the gaps in the trunk and trunk lid with polyfill.
Here's a good link on sound deadening
Here's a good link on sound deadening
#4
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understand, everything you dynamat...if you deaden the sound in your car 3dB, you have just gained 3 dB in sound. Dynamat is fuckign awesome...and there are many other brands you can get if dynamat is too expensive.
#5
Instructor
Go for Raamat or Second skin Damplifier pro...for the same material properties and amounts, you'll pay close to half. Use the money you save on deadening foam (closed cell, etc.).
The butyl product will silence resonances in materials in your doors and body panels, and help keep them from transmitting sound (rattles, buzzes, some road noise, etc.). The foam will actually absorb sound from the air (more road noise, back wave from midrange speakers); put both together, and you'll have a solution that is exponentially better than either product alone (more broadband attenuation, instead of limited to certain frequencies and methods sound can transmit). No matter how well you install dynamat or similar product, it will only go so far on its own. And foam is relatively cheap. A lot of people mistakenly "double up" on the dynamat, not knowing that they could have done a better job cheaper by simply attacking from two fronts.
The butyl product will silence resonances in materials in your doors and body panels, and help keep them from transmitting sound (rattles, buzzes, some road noise, etc.). The foam will actually absorb sound from the air (more road noise, back wave from midrange speakers); put both together, and you'll have a solution that is exponentially better than either product alone (more broadband attenuation, instead of limited to certain frequencies and methods sound can transmit). No matter how well you install dynamat or similar product, it will only go so far on its own. And foam is relatively cheap. A lot of people mistakenly "double up" on the dynamat, not knowing that they could have done a better job cheaper by simply attacking from two fronts.
#7
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thanx for all of the feedback guys. Im kinda confused on what to install for the inside speakers. Something that'll sound nice and clean and not too pricey.
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#8
Instructor
Originally Posted by Psycho
not too pricey.
#9
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Originally Posted by Hi There
I forget the model number, but Pioneer's top of the range 6.2 set has an excellent midrange driver that I believe can be had quite cheaply. I'd check out DIY mobile audio forums for good ideas on this, they have some experienced installers and audiophiles that are not afraid to give an honest opinion, even on affordable speakers.
#11
Instructor
Which speakers are you looking to replace? All of them? If you just want to do a front stage upgrade (and I heavily recommend anyone who's budget-minded to focus on this, it is very much the best use of your money, imho). For $500, you have your choice of many 2-speaker sets from the likes of Seas, Rainbow, DLS, any of which can provide a stunning front stage for at or under the coin you plan to drop...again, check out DIY mobile audio for opinions on various sets. Otherwise, if you want to do every speaker in the car...I'd suggest increasing your budget. It's going to be hard, imho, to get 5 speakers that will do justice to that 10w6 and the amount of money and time you've already spent in that price range, but there are a few good sets for $200 a pair (like the Pioneer Premier 720PRS I mentioned above). If you're using the factory locations, as I am, really focus on deadening the doors, and get yourself a midrange with good low extension.
#12
Instructor
Originally Posted by pnoi521
Just wondeing. Would it be bad to dynamat the door panels with the side air bags?
#13
go with rainbow slc265 for about 230 or rainbow germaniums for about 450. you can get a whole roll of raam mat for about half the price of dynamat. i was told hushmat is better than raam mat and dynamat, can anyone confirm?
#14
2012 SH-AWD / Advanced
I'd second the recommendation on the Rainbows...great speakers!
I've haven't used the others, but I have used the Hushmat. I thought it was very good stuff, and better than eDead.
I've haven't used the others, but I have used the Hushmat. I thought it was very good stuff, and better than eDead.
#15
Instructor
BTW, Something I learned the other night:
If you're using the factory locations for speakers, it's absolutely essential to deaden the inside of the plastic interior door panels. I had previously done the outer door skin and inner door metal, but neglected to do the interior of the plastic panels until last night.
The difference in the 400 Hz region is incredible...no more resonances. As for the upper bass/mid frequencies from 200-800 Hz., the effect really is dramatic. I mean, I'm not talking about something you'll barely pick up on, or something your girl friend won't notice. Midbass is much tighter and punchier, response is much more even. Those plastic panels really hold door-mounted speakers back, trust me.
If you're using the factory locations for speakers, it's absolutely essential to deaden the inside of the plastic interior door panels. I had previously done the outer door skin and inner door metal, but neglected to do the interior of the plastic panels until last night.
The difference in the 400 Hz region is incredible...no more resonances. As for the upper bass/mid frequencies from 200-800 Hz., the effect really is dramatic. I mean, I'm not talking about something you'll barely pick up on, or something your girl friend won't notice. Midbass is much tighter and punchier, response is much more even. Those plastic panels really hold door-mounted speakers back, trust me.
#16
Registered TL Owner
Originally Posted by Hi There
It's not bad, per se, but can be dangerous if you install with power to the battery (unhook negative), and I'd also review manufacturer's instructions on safe panel removal (and do nothing to interfere with the deployment of the bag, i.e. don't deaden on or around it) ...which door panels are you talking about? I'm unaware of door panels with air bags in them, unless you're talking about the curtain airbags in the A and C pillars...in which case, I'd say you've gone farther than I did with your sound proofing.
I forgot who's car this is, but it looks like one of the airbags came from the door panel
#17
2012 SH-AWD / Advanced
Originally Posted by Hi There
BTW, Something I learned the other night:
If you're using the factory locations for speakers, it's absolutely essential to deaden the inside of the plastic interior door panels. I had previously done the outer door skin and inner door metal, but neglected to do the interior of the plastic panels until last night.
The difference in the 400 Hz region is incredible...no more resonances. As for the upper bass/mid frequencies from 200-800 Hz., the effect really is dramatic. I mean, I'm not talking about something you'll barely pick up on, or something your girl friend won't notice. Midbass is much tighter and punchier, response is much more even. Those plastic panels really hold door-mounted speakers back, trust me.
If you're using the factory locations for speakers, it's absolutely essential to deaden the inside of the plastic interior door panels. I had previously done the outer door skin and inner door metal, but neglected to do the interior of the plastic panels until last night.
The difference in the 400 Hz region is incredible...no more resonances. As for the upper bass/mid frequencies from 200-800 Hz., the effect really is dramatic. I mean, I'm not talking about something you'll barely pick up on, or something your girl friend won't notice. Midbass is much tighter and punchier, response is much more even. Those plastic panels really hold door-mounted speakers back, trust me.
#18
2012 SH-AWD / Advanced
Originally Posted by pnoi521
Oooh I thought there were air bags in the front door panels? Or are they just in the seat?
I forgot who's car this is, but it looks like one of the airbags came from the door panel
I forgot who's car this is, but it looks like one of the airbags came from the door panel
#20
Engineer
iTrader: (1)
Originally Posted by Psycho
Hey guys i just purchased 2 W6 v.2 with jl 1000.1 amp and 300.4 amp in a custom box. Im also going to be changing the inside speakers but still dont know what to get. Now will dynamat be needed? is there alot of raddling in the trunk?
Yes, you'll need dynamat for sure with 2 W6s.
You can get brown bread instead for cheaper price.
#21
Instructor
Originally Posted by pnoi521
Oh ok! =) Guess I'll be dynamatting my doors then!
#22
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ok well thanx for all of the comments guys but i got the CRAZIEST quote ever....I went over to sound waves in Van Nuys the other day and they told me this:
One of the top class Focal Component speakers with the DVD player install and one of the best Custom boxes nothing to fansy when i say best but for the Perfect sound...Everything is going to cost me 1200. Im guessing if i tell them to go ahead and put dynamat all over the car its gonna cost another 100 dollars which is still great because i ended up getting my amps and subs for only 500 dollars.
One of the top class Focal Component speakers with the DVD player install and one of the best Custom boxes nothing to fansy when i say best but for the Perfect sound...Everything is going to cost me 1200. Im guessing if i tell them to go ahead and put dynamat all over the car its gonna cost another 100 dollars which is still great because i ended up getting my amps and subs for only 500 dollars.
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