I've read so many damn threads here but can't get a sense if a sound processor is absolutely necessary? I'm not concerned about 5.1 sound.

Would prefer to splice in before the amp and convert to RCA to run to 5 channel amp (Alpine PDX-5).

Questions...

1. If you are not running a processor, how is the sound quality?
2. Are you tapping in before the amp and getting a full frequency range?
3. Do you get decent signal strength or do you have to turn the HU volume up to 35-40?
4. Is there any impact to HFL or other OEM functionality w/o sound processor?
5. If you had to do it over again, would you still go w/o the processor?

THANK YOU

 

you can always run zapco DC amps that have on board processing via usb laptop tuning

 

The TLs have a pretty flat EQ, so using a LOC will be just fine. I haven't got anything installed myself, but I have a friend who is a high-end equip dealer/installer (Rainbow, Morel, DLS, Dynaudio, TRU, etc...), so I take anything he tells me to heart.

 

1)I'll let you know when I get it installed (Zapco DSP-6SL), it better be stellar or I will be pissed
2)Before amp, it is full range on the 4 ch + center and the sub is lowpassed ~150
3)see #1, fwiw the headunit stays un-clipped to full volume
4)The HFL and Nav voice are all processed in the headunit not the amp, however, from what I can tell the amp needs to stay plugged in (powered) to maintain the data loop. Not a big deal since the signal inputs are on a separate harness than the power, i.e. just leave the power plug connected w/o the signal plug.
5)I doubt I will ever run a big system in a car w/o a processor of some sort. To get the best sq there is just too much tuning needed to make a car sound right b/c of the environment...that and I doubt I will ever have the time to build an elaborate passive system to "tune" the system.

 

only problem with the stock signal is a dip at 1k. It is not drastic, but it would need to be corrected to be flat.

 

I found to get the best bass and without a processor I had to take the signal from the mids AND the sub output and combine them before the amp with a "Y" connector. With just the sub input it's kind of muddy with not enough sharpness and with just the midrange input it hit pretty low but the lower stuff is noticeably missing.

I can adjust it now the way I want it by turning up the sub level for a little more low end and the bass level for more punch. Of course messing with one will change the other so it's a balancing act.

 

Regarding the dip at 1k, I added a balance line transmitter to level the signal. The Zapco DC's are awesome, tuning capabilities are extreme. Although, install, speaker locations, sound absorbtion/deadening, etc... all play a huge role in the final outcome.

Regarding the "y" connector, doesn't sound like a good idea. What kind of aftermarket amp did you get? Also, how many speakers are you running? And what kind? Most think you need both the front and rear speakers. The best sounding systems I have heard have no rear fill at all. The only thing in the back is a sub.

You might get a zapco dc amp to power your front speakers and a lower cost/quality, higher watt mono amp for your sub. Ton's of ways to go.

I took out the stock amp and it had not impact on HFL. It did get rid of the annoying women giving me direction though

my suggestion, start simple. Get a Zapco DC650.6. You can run an active system...one channel per mid, one channel per tweat, and bridge two channels for the sub. you will hear a HUGE difference over stock as long as it is tuned right...that's entirely different convesation.

Hope I didn't add more confusion to the conversation.

 

I was afraid of adding the Y, not sure what kind of problems it may present. But it worked well, I could never get both the tight punch and the really low stuff at the same time. Now I have both. I wish Chico could've listened to it at the meet but that was when it was having problems anyway. If you're ever passing through, let me know.

 

my first setup i used a loc after the amp the used a clarion pre-amp eq to boost the signal and for the eq....it sounded great...the clarion gave me front rear and sub output and boosted to 8 volts....

 

For the record... the TL's head unit produces anything but a flat signal. Acura had to jump through hoops with the signal to get the crappy factory speakers to sound good. Audio processors are the way to go if you want to retain use of the factory head unit.

 

Does anyone have proof that it does or doesn't have a fairly flat signal with a pictured diagram to solve the debate once and for all.

 

well, I connected the radio outputs, not the amp outputs, to a AC3050 RTA and the fronts, center, and rears were flat sans about a 3dB dip at 1k. The sub is low passed out of the radio @ ~150Hz. I did not take any pics but that is what was there. I have no doubt that the amp outputs look like a roller coaster, but the deck itself is pretty flat. FWIW I also connected to an o-scope and the signal is unclipped at full volume (@ 1kHz anyway)

maybe if I get inspired...i.e. bored...at work tomorrow I'll reconnect it all and post a pic.