DIY Remote Start Help - Installers Requested
02-08-2009, 06:04 AM
#1
DIY Remote Start Help - Installers Requested
Bought the 561T remote start and I’m gonna try installing it myself on my ‘08. I haven’t done an actual inspection of the car. All my info is coming from the 04 – 06 Service Manual which I’m hoping translates over to the ’08 with minor to no changes. Here’s what I’ve come to learn about the TL:
Ignition - BLK/YW & BLK/RED
Constant 12V - WHT
Starter - BLK/WHT
Accessory – WHT/RED
All 5 wires are located on a 6 pin connector near the driver kick panel under the dash.
There’s a WHT/RED wire that splits between the Door Multiplex Control Unit (DMCU) & the Security Indicator LED in the driver door. When the factory security is un-armed,
communication rides the wire only to the DMCU. When armed, it runs to the indicator then to the DMCU via a BLK/YW wire.
Keyless Receiver Unit wires are BLK, PNK/BLK, YW, & GRY/BLU.
Ignition - BLK/YW & BLK/RED
Constant 12V - WHT
Starter - BLK/WHT
Accessory – WHT/RED
All 5 wires are located on a 6 pin connector near the driver kick panel under the dash.
There’s a WHT/RED wire that splits between the Door Multiplex Control Unit (DMCU) & the Security Indicator LED in the driver door. When the factory security is un-armed,
communication rides the wire only to the DMCU. When armed, it runs to the indicator then to the DMCU via a BLK/YW wire.
Keyless Receiver Unit wires are BLK, PNK/BLK, YW, & GRY/BLU.
02-08-2009, 06:06 AM
#2
Here’s the 561T setup:
Primary Harness Wiring
Factory Disarm
Factory Rearm
(+) Ignition Out (To Alarm)
(-) Activation Input
(-) Wait to Start Input
(+) Activation Input
Ground
(+/-) Light Flash
Heavy Gauge Relay Wiring
30 AMP Output to Ignition Circuit
30 AMP Output to Starter Circuit
30 AMP Output to Acc. Circuit
Programmable Output for Acc. Or Ignition
Two (2) 30 AMP High Current 12V Input
Remote Start Harness Wiring
Neutral Safety Switch Input
Tachometer Input Wiring
Brake Switch Shutdown Wiring
Hood Pinswitch Shutdown Wire
Rear Defogger Output
Here's what I gather from the wiring:
The (+) Ignition Out (To Alarm) is useless since I’m not adding the remote start an A/F alarm system.
(-) Wait to Start Input is obsolete since this is not diesel
To me, defrosting the windshield is more important than the rear window. Connector A - WHT/RED wire
Since there’s only one 12V constant, the 2nd 12V input in the kit isn’t required
Here’s the PDF:
http://www.directed.com/guides/manua...561T_06-03.pdf
Primary Harness Wiring
Factory Disarm
Factory Rearm
(+) Ignition Out (To Alarm)
(-) Activation Input
(-) Wait to Start Input
(+) Activation Input
Ground
(+/-) Light Flash
Heavy Gauge Relay Wiring
30 AMP Output to Ignition Circuit
30 AMP Output to Starter Circuit
30 AMP Output to Acc. Circuit
Programmable Output for Acc. Or Ignition
Two (2) 30 AMP High Current 12V Input
Remote Start Harness Wiring
Neutral Safety Switch Input
Tachometer Input Wiring
Brake Switch Shutdown Wiring
Hood Pinswitch Shutdown Wire
Rear Defogger Output
Here's what I gather from the wiring:
The (+) Ignition Out (To Alarm) is useless since I’m not adding the remote start an A/F alarm system.
(-) Wait to Start Input is obsolete since this is not diesel
To me, defrosting the windshield is more important than the rear window. Connector A - WHT/RED wire
Since there’s only one 12V constant, the 2nd 12V input in the kit isn’t required
Here’s the PDF:
http://www.directed.com/guides/manua...561T_06-03.pdf
02-08-2009, 06:08 AM
#3
Now for questions:
1. Does it sound logical to connect to disarm wire to the WHT/RED and the rearm wire to BLK/YW wire? Is another location recommended? Is it even necessary?
2. I can’t pinpoint the Tach wire running to the gauge cluster to save my life. The kit comes with an extremely long wire for the tach, so I guess I’ll be running it to one of the ignition coil wires in the engine bay unless someone can tell me where to find it in the cabin?
3. This is the most confusing. If you read the PDF page 13, it says this for the WHT/BLU wire:
This input comes from the factory set to 2 activation pulses. This
means that it is necessary to have 2 consecutive ground pulses
on the white/blue wire for the remote start to activate or to
deactivate.
On the next page, it says this about the WHT/RED wire:
This input comes from the factory set to 2 activation pulses. This
means that it is necessary to have 2 consecutive 12V pulses
on the white/blue wire for the remote start to activate or to
deactivate.
It doesn’t say what to hook the WHT/RED wire to. And with these being the activation wire(s), does it read pulses from the Keyless Receiver Unit, DMCU, or something I’m missing.
Any & all help on this will be appreciated. I like to think I did most of the groundwork myself without nagging you guys with every little detail. I haven’t thrown the transponder bypass in the mix, but from what I’ve read of the installation guide, seems simple enough. In case you’re wondering, I’m no stranger to wiring/circuitry. Been building PCs and working on my old car for years, so I have patience when it comes to electronics. If you guys could help with these loose ends, I’d be indebted. Heck, I’ll even do a “how-to”.
1. Does it sound logical to connect to disarm wire to the WHT/RED and the rearm wire to BLK/YW wire? Is another location recommended? Is it even necessary?
2. I can’t pinpoint the Tach wire running to the gauge cluster to save my life. The kit comes with an extremely long wire for the tach, so I guess I’ll be running it to one of the ignition coil wires in the engine bay unless someone can tell me where to find it in the cabin?
3. This is the most confusing. If you read the PDF page 13, it says this for the WHT/BLU wire:
This input comes from the factory set to 2 activation pulses. This
means that it is necessary to have 2 consecutive ground pulses
on the white/blue wire for the remote start to activate or to
deactivate.
On the next page, it says this about the WHT/RED wire:
This input comes from the factory set to 2 activation pulses. This
means that it is necessary to have 2 consecutive 12V pulses
on the white/blue wire for the remote start to activate or to
deactivate.
It doesn’t say what to hook the WHT/RED wire to. And with these being the activation wire(s), does it read pulses from the Keyless Receiver Unit, DMCU, or something I’m missing.
Any & all help on this will be appreciated. I like to think I did most of the groundwork myself without nagging you guys with every little detail. I haven’t thrown the transponder bypass in the mix, but from what I’ve read of the installation guide, seems simple enough. In case you’re wondering, I’m no stranger to wiring/circuitry. Been building PCs and working on my old car for years, so I have patience when it comes to electronics. If you guys could help with these loose ends, I’d be indebted. Heck, I’ll even do a “how-to”.
02-08-2009, 04:59 PM
#4
Racer
i personally didnt use a add-on unit like yours. but i didnt have to run any wires into the engine bay. my tach and hood pin were all done by the data wire. this is the bypass/
OEM integration i used:
http://www.idatalink.com/
it made the install alot easier. it did the trunk,locks,tach,hood switch all in 1 wire if remember correctly.
OEM integration i used:
http://www.idatalink.com/
it made the install alot easier. it did the trunk,locks,tach,hood switch all in 1 wire if remember correctly.
02-08-2009, 07:23 PM
#5
Ya lost me. TLs didn't come from the factory with remote start, so aren't all remoter starters add-ons?
And now that I've looked at the installation guides on idatalink, even they have a cable running from the RS232 port on the module to what looks to be a remote start system seperate of itself. Please explain.
And now that I've looked at the installation guides on idatalink, even they have a cable running from the RS232 port on the module to what looks to be a remote start system seperate of itself. Please explain.
02-08-2009, 07:30 PM
#6
Scratch the last post. Misread
Yeah, i see yours came with a seperate key fob. I'm trying to work it off the factory one. So you're saying with one of the idatalink modules, i'll have to run less wires from my remote start kit? Or that it was easier with the kind of kit you have.
Yeah, i see yours came with a seperate key fob. I'm trying to work it off the factory one. So you're saying with one of the idatalink modules, i'll have to run less wires from my remote start kit? Or that it was easier with the kind of kit you have.
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02-08-2009, 08:09 PM
#8
Thanx alot both of you guys. I've gotta better gist of it now. Hooking all your aftermarket system wires to the module makes for less splicing and soldering I have to do in the TL. Thank you hata_61 for making me take another look at the idatalink site. I'm gonna go with the SOLO ADS-DLSL HA module. Seems this module combines the functions of the XK01 & THE PKH34 that you used JCJC2U into one package. Your write-up is just what the doctor ordered, though. I'm gonna photograph the install for when I do my own write-up.
02-08-2009, 08:14 PM
#9
Now for questions:
1. Does it sound logical to connect to disarm wire to the WHT/RED and the rearm wire to BLK/YW wire? Is another location recommended? Is it even necessary?
Your disarm wire from the R/S brain needs to be connected to the unlock wire on the TL (this unlock wire both disarms the alarm and unlocks the vehicle). The rearm wire will be the TL's lock wire (also rearms the factory alarm). You'll need to snag these wires in the door (need to remove the doorpanel) OR you purchase a module like CAN-SL2 or idatalink and just connect this module to the can-bus wire on the TL and you don't have to hunt for these pesky wires in the door....
2. I can’t pinpoint the Tach wire running to the gauge cluster to save my life. The kit comes with an extremely long wire for the tach, so I guess I’ll be running it to one of the ignition coil wires in the engine bay unless someone can tell me where to find it in the cabin?
I wanted a reliable start that would keep my OEM starter safe and alive for many years... i went to the ignition coil in the engine bay -- this requires you drill baby drill through the firewall... just be safe, find a nice spot, and a long drill bit and use a rubber grommet to protect the wire as it passes through the firewall. Also use wire looming and electric tape to protect the wire once it traverses the firewall and is in the engine bay.
3. This is the most confusing. If you read the PDF page 13, it says this for the WHT/BLU wire:
This input comes from the factory set to 2 activation pulses. This
means that it is necessary to have 2 consecutive ground pulses
on the white/blue wire for the remote start to activate or to
deactivate.
On the next page, it says this about the WHT/RED wire:
This input comes from the factory set to 2 activation pulses. This
means that it is necessary to have 2 consecutive 12V pulses
on the white/blue wire for the remote start to activate or to
deactivate.
It doesn’t say what to hook the WHT/RED wire to. And with these being the activation wire(s), does it read pulses from the Keyless Receiver Unit, DMCU, or something I’m missing.
You'll have to snag the electrical pulses from the lock motor wire of the TL so that your add-on R/S brain knows when to initiate r/s sequence... it's:
YELLOW/BLACK (+) @ FRONT of FUSEBOX, GREEN Plug (per my info)
Any & all help on this will be appreciated. I like to think I did most of the groundwork myself without nagging you guys with every little detail. I haven’t thrown the transponder bypass in the mix, but from what I’ve read of the installation guide, seems simple enough. In case you’re wondering, I’m no stranger to wiring/circuitry. Been building PCs and working on my old car for years, so I have patience when it comes to electronics. If you guys could help with these loose ends, I’d be indebted. Heck, I’ll even do a “how-to”.
1. Does it sound logical to connect to disarm wire to the WHT/RED and the rearm wire to BLK/YW wire? Is another location recommended? Is it even necessary?
Your disarm wire from the R/S brain needs to be connected to the unlock wire on the TL (this unlock wire both disarms the alarm and unlocks the vehicle). The rearm wire will be the TL's lock wire (also rearms the factory alarm). You'll need to snag these wires in the door (need to remove the doorpanel) OR you purchase a module like CAN-SL2 or idatalink and just connect this module to the can-bus wire on the TL and you don't have to hunt for these pesky wires in the door....
2. I can’t pinpoint the Tach wire running to the gauge cluster to save my life. The kit comes with an extremely long wire for the tach, so I guess I’ll be running it to one of the ignition coil wires in the engine bay unless someone can tell me where to find it in the cabin?
I wanted a reliable start that would keep my OEM starter safe and alive for many years... i went to the ignition coil in the engine bay -- this requires you drill baby drill through the firewall... just be safe, find a nice spot, and a long drill bit and use a rubber grommet to protect the wire as it passes through the firewall. Also use wire looming and electric tape to protect the wire once it traverses the firewall and is in the engine bay.
3. This is the most confusing. If you read the PDF page 13, it says this for the WHT/BLU wire:
This input comes from the factory set to 2 activation pulses. This
means that it is necessary to have 2 consecutive ground pulses
on the white/blue wire for the remote start to activate or to
deactivate.
On the next page, it says this about the WHT/RED wire:
This input comes from the factory set to 2 activation pulses. This
means that it is necessary to have 2 consecutive 12V pulses
on the white/blue wire for the remote start to activate or to
deactivate.
It doesn’t say what to hook the WHT/RED wire to. And with these being the activation wire(s), does it read pulses from the Keyless Receiver Unit, DMCU, or something I’m missing.
You'll have to snag the electrical pulses from the lock motor wire of the TL so that your add-on R/S brain knows when to initiate r/s sequence... it's:
YELLOW/BLACK (+) @ FRONT of FUSEBOX, GREEN Plug (per my info)
Any & all help on this will be appreciated. I like to think I did most of the groundwork myself without nagging you guys with every little detail. I haven’t thrown the transponder bypass in the mix, but from what I’ve read of the installation guide, seems simple enough. In case you’re wondering, I’m no stranger to wiring/circuitry. Been building PCs and working on my old car for years, so I have patience when it comes to electronics. If you guys could help with these loose ends, I’d be indebted. Heck, I’ll even do a “how-to”.
www.the12volt.com ... go to forums, login (it's free to register) and search "Acura TL"
www.bulldogsecurity.com (your vehicle wiring list will be there)
http://techservices.audiovox.com/ (register for free)
02-08-2009, 10:54 PM
#10
Holy crap, I love this site. You guys are definitely alot more informative than the old forum I used to belong to.
PeterUbers, thanx for literally responding to my questions and for the links. I just ordered the idatalink module. And, man, no one around here wanted to install my kit plus a transponder for under 350 in labor so again, I thank you all. Freakin cool. My first project on the TL. My "how-to" is gonna be so dumbed down with pictures, no one will need to worry about an installer again. Well, if they're electrically literate, that is.
PeterUbers, thanx for literally responding to my questions and for the links. I just ordered the idatalink module. And, man, no one around here wanted to install my kit plus a transponder for under 350 in labor so again, I thank you all. Freakin cool. My first project on the TL. My "how-to" is gonna be so dumbed down with pictures, no one will need to worry about an installer again. Well, if they're electrically literate, that is.
02-09-2009, 01:59 AM
#11
Racer
so make sure you starter unit has the RS-232 port.i beleive the idata site has wiring instructions for our cars. it will tell you where the data wire is and stuff.
If you buy certain brands of starters, they will come with vehicle specific wiring locations. like autostart that i have, when you goto their website and punch in the serial number of the module it will give you access to their database.
here check this out: http://www.autostart.ca/downloads_wi...nformation.php
another really popular brand up here in canada is compustar, it a Firstech LLC brand.
this is their website: http://www.firstechllc.com/
i beleive they also own idatalink.not 100% sure on that one tho.
hopefully this helps!! and good luck on your install. i should have taken pictures and documented my install when i did it. but it was a long time ago so i dont remember exactly everything i had to do. i was also lucky enough to have a professional installer around when i did mine. he was working away at his customer car's while i was trying my first install on my own car.
If you buy certain brands of starters, they will come with vehicle specific wiring locations. like autostart that i have, when you goto their website and punch in the serial number of the module it will give you access to their database.
here check this out: http://www.autostart.ca/downloads_wi...nformation.php
another really popular brand up here in canada is compustar, it a Firstech LLC brand.
this is their website: http://www.firstechllc.com/
i beleive they also own idatalink.not 100% sure on that one tho.
hopefully this helps!! and good luck on your install. i should have taken pictures and documented my install when i did it. but it was a long time ago so i dont remember exactly everything i had to do. i was also lucky enough to have a professional installer around when i did mine. he was working away at his customer car's while i was trying my first install on my own car.
02-09-2009, 02:06 AM
#12
Racer
If you get really stuck, i can try to take my car apart and take a couple pictures to help you out. But lets keep that as a last resort =P
Oh one more thing i forgot to tell you, if you want your trunk to open while the car is in remote start, you will have to hard wire the trunk release to the car not the idatalink. its a safety feature honda has put in to their cars. the trunk will not open with data if your car is running. but if this is not a big issue then dont worry about it and save yourself some extra soldering!!!
Oh one more thing i forgot to tell you, if you want your trunk to open while the car is in remote start, you will have to hard wire the trunk release to the car not the idatalink. its a safety feature honda has put in to their cars. the trunk will not open with data if your car is running. but if this is not a big issue then dont worry about it and save yourself some extra soldering!!!
Last edited by hata_61; 02-09-2009 at 02:09 AM.
02-09-2009, 07:19 AM
#13
Instructor
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: MN
Age: 41
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ciscopath, you should do a DIY with pics after you done still it. it would be great help to some of us here. im looking to install after market/remote starter to my 04 tl too, but i'm not sure where to start. after i see how your install i should be able to get it starting.
thanks.
thanks.
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