So I have a few inquiries to make, some have been debated and others are hard to find literature on:

1. Where to connect the amplifier remote wire to factory '08 tl-s navi units?

2. Where to splice the wire from for the LOC, before or after the factory amp?

3. Are there any existing unused or usable grommets to run the power cable through the firewall?

Any input is great!


Thanks!

 

1. You can connect the remote wire to a fuse that is powered with the car. I believe fuse 32 which is for the power sockets should be fine.

2. If you are using an amplifier with LOW LEVEL INPUTS only, hook up your LOC AFTER the factory amplifier. If you are using an amplifer that has HIGH LEVEL or SPEAKER LEVEL inputs, do not use an LOC and tap after the factory amplifier.

If you amplifier can accept super low voltages and you are doing the whole system, tap before the factory amplifier.

3. There is a grommet that can be used. Member Deathtotoasters did a DIY on finding it and routing the cord through.

 

DISCONNECT ACTIVE NOISE CANCELLATION MODULE BEHIND STOCK NAVI SCREEN!!!

Do a search... your install will fail without this step

 

How about SRS complications? Do I need to worry about dealing with these when I removed the trim to hide wires? Whats the best way to deal with this?

 

You can get a high wattage LOC (30+) and use the speaker connector on the stock sub. You can get access by removing the upper trunk liner. Then, you are RCA to RCA to the amp. Stinger SGN12 is a choice that some make - they are cheap on ebay.

Buy an add-a-fuse and put it on #32 - this is accessory on. If you want the amp to be radio-on, then you can tap into the factory amp remote wire, but it is VERY, VERY low voltage and not all amps will respond to it - you might need a relay to get it to work. Most just use fuse #32 as accessory on.

 

you aren't touching any of the airbags or disconnecting any Airbag harnesses so there won't be any SRS errors. BUT ALWAYS disconnect the battery when dealing with the car's electrical system. Being jump started with your car isn't fun.

 

Cool beans. I read the manual slightly and it said something about radio security, that I may need a disc or key or something, should I remove power from my car. Is this true? Also, anyone know specifically which wire is the stock sub wire going into the amp at the passenger side kick-panel? (color, coding, name, anything?) And do local hardware shops or auto repair shops sell add-a-fuse kits?

 

You will need your radio code and navigation code if equipped to reset the system after a disconnected battery. usually found written in your owners manual if they did the pre-delivery correctly. sometimes found in written in glove box, nav code is sometimes found on bottom of navigation unit

 

I found two stickers on the side of my glove compartment, they are about 1.25" in length and have some codes on there. Would that be it?

 

^Yes. The 4 digit code is for the Navi, the 5 digit is the radio.

 

Sweet, thanks!

 

Quick question. Will the after market amp sound better connected to the stock sub or connected to the stock rear speakers?

 

My guess is it would probably blow the factory subwoofer pretty easily while going the other route would improve the vocal clarity ten fold. You're choice....clarity is a beautiful thing.