Super Weird Afternarket AMP Problem

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Old Sep 2, 2011 | 06:21 PM
  #1  
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Question Super Weird Afternarket AMP Problem

I did an install hooked up a JL Audio amp and sub every thing works great the bass is awesome.

After I shut off the ignition and turn the car back on again no BASS nothing.

This amp power light is green but does not put out any bass just a lot of feed back bass [serious humming] whenI open the trunk the bass goes away.

I have to disconnect the RCA and then connect them back in the amp and it's back to normal. It puts out good bass.

Amp hooked up to the OEM subwoofer wires. I split the wires and connected it to the AMP low Level inputs with an RCA cable.

Any one know whats going on here, OR had a similar problem?

Answers that make sense would be highly appreciated

Thank You!
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Old Sep 2, 2011 | 06:29 PM
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you should be using a line out converter from the OEM sub wires instead of just splicing them into an RCA cable.
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Old Sep 2, 2011 | 08:08 PM
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"Using a Line out Converter" is that just a suggestion or the lack of it is causing the problem? What does a LOC actually do?

Thanks..
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Old Sep 2, 2011 | 08:29 PM
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its a converter that takes the high level output from the head unit normally used to power speakers/factory sub to a low level input for the amplifier.

chances are your overloading the amplifiers low level inputs with a high level signal and its shutting itself off to prevent damage.
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Old Sep 2, 2011 | 10:14 PM
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Some of the JL amps can accept a high level input so that might not be the issue. I think there should be a switch by the RCA for "Hi" or "Low."
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Old Sep 2, 2011 | 10:19 PM
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..what amp is it?
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Old Sep 2, 2011 | 10:40 PM
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Active noise cancellation system?
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Old Sep 2, 2011 | 11:47 PM
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The AMP is a JX250/1 and I have it connected to the OEM sub wire.
The OEM sub is disconnected. I have a feeling it's the Remote Power on wire. I connected it to a wire on the NAVI DVD player. I used a multi tester to see which wire had 12V and connected the Remote wire to that. The Jl Audio amp does turn off when I turn off the ignition.

I've noticed when I turn on the car the red light on the amp comes on first for about half a second and then turns green. May be I should hook it up to the #32 fuse but I have no idea where in the fuse box near the drivers foot its located.

Thats about all I got I connected the speakers to the high level input on the amp and the sound was hardly audible...

Thanks in advance guys!
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Old Sep 3, 2011 | 07:59 AM
  #9  
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Originally Posted by sddale
Some of the JL amps can accept a high level input so that might not be the issue. I think there should be a switch by the RCA for "Hi" or "Low."

that amp can take high level inputs but not through the RCA inputs. he would have to use the multi pin input.

ive been in the game for 15+ years now 8 of which i was an installer at a custom shop and have never seen an amp take high level through the RCA input.


Originally Posted by radiskull
May be I should hook it up to the #32 fuse but I have no idea where in the fuse box near the drivers foot its located.
Thanks in advance guys!
Here is the info on the fuse box location... https://techinfo.honda.com/rjanisis/...404O00242B.pdf

Scroll down three pages to page# 245 it will show you where it is . then if you scroll down a few more pages after that it tells you what each fuse is for.

Last edited by garrett; Sep 3, 2011 at 08:02 AM.
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Old Sep 3, 2011 | 09:57 AM
  #10  
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Thank you so much for the help, suggestions and replies.
When I connected the amp to the 2 rear speakers, through the high level inputs, the sub could hardly be heard, I turned the input sensitivity all the way up.

Then I tried connecting the amp to the rear OEM subwoofer by splicing the wire and connecting an RCA wire to it and then got a Y splitter 1 RCA female to 2 RCA males and hooked it to the Low level inputs on the sub and it sounds pretty good.

Problem is I must keep the rear OEM woofer disconnected, other wise when I start up the car the JL sub wont work, in order to get it to work I have to disconnect the RCA from the JL amp and reconnect, then it will work, and I would have to do this every time I turned off the car, and turned it back on again.

I've ordered a LOC on ebay the stinger 12 something waiting for that just to be on the safe side and I'm going to try the #32 fuse. BTW thanks for letting me know the location of it.

I think may be the Remote connection I did from the NAVI player in the rear has some thing to do with it.

Thanks People!
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