WDP-Acura TL

Anyone install any subs in their car. Was there a way to deactivate the factory sub in the car? I want to get two 12's in my car. Anyone recommend any good, reliable subs, and amp. I want a good knocking system. List price information, brand if you can and thnx.

ed99

I have the following:

2-12 Alpine TYPE R DVC SUBs $700 for the pair
1-Alpine M1001 monoblock 1000watt amp $900
1-Alpine digital remote $100
1-AudioControl Overdrive $250
1-Rockford Fosgate Line Converter $50
1-MonsterCable w/Digital Reader 1 Farad Capacitor $250
Lots and Lots of Dynomat $400!!!

All in cdn dollars!!

This system will shake all your TL's bolts loose...Lol.

2evil05

unplugging the factory sub is easy and very necessary, just pull down the panel under it and pull the plug. then use this for the signal to the converter for your amp

rickneuropa

Sorry, have to disagree. Don't use the signal going to the factory sub! That is a hi level signal, and will carry the most noise. Use the low level signal by tapping into the Sub inputs going into the factory amp in the right kick panel. And you don't have to disconnect the factory sub, just in case you trade it off later, its easy to turn everything back to stock, and the stock sub won't be noticable with aftermarket subs in there, when the sub and bass are both set to 0. My recommendations:

eD 12" 13Kv.2 subs $125 a piece.
http://www.edesignaudio.com/product....pid=19&cur=USD
These subs are known for their SQ but are also winning sound competitions with their SPL.

Nine.1 Amp rated at 1200WRMs at 1 ohm $350
http://edesignaudio.com/product.php?cid=4&pid=6&cur=USD

eDead sound dampening $50 a gallon
http://edesignaudio.com/category.php?type=damp

If you purchase in a package, price for 2 subs, amp and a gallon of edead= $552.50 free shipping.....

I can gurantee you will underestimate this setup. I have 1 ed 12" in my car driven with only 440wattsrms, and I have to turn the gains down,as it gives me headaches, and will rattle my TL!!! The thing that really sets these subs apart, is the linear curve all the way down past 20hz. These get very low and stay loud. They are very fast as well, and will keep up with any fast kick drum you can throw at them. Please check out the testimonials, and the fourm they have, and know that these are fantastic subs.

WDP-Acura TL

Hey i'm still learning about aftermarket systems, can you tell me that in laymens terms? The reason is when I go to Bestbuy I can easily tell them what to do exactly.

ed99

CUrrently, I have my Hi-low converter tapped off one of the rear speakers instead of the OEM Sub. Had that before and too much distortion so moved to the 6.5's in the rear and it sounds better and cleaner.

2evil05

if you have a good quality hi/lo converter or processor, then the noise coming off of the high level signal will be unnoticable. the reason you want to disconnect the factory sub is that at different volume levels different frequencies will be out of phase and the 2 subs will cancel each other out quite a bit.

rickneuropa

That may be true, however, I'd rather have a signal that is originally a low level signal, then one that is low level, then converted to high level, then converted back to low level. In all the conversions, your automatically introducing noise, and distortion that wouldn;t be there with the original signal.

The 8" sub in the car cannot produce levels below 30hz that can register that well on a meter, unless it;s cranked, and the sub output is at +6 With most aftermarket subs and amps, you want the bass set to 0, the sub output to 0 and the output can be adjusted as well as the low pass. If your experiencing cancellation, you can either change the low pass below what the 8" can output, or switch the phase on your amp 180 degrees. I have to disagree with you as I have my sub installed, and it's fantastic, with the 8" still in. No cancellation going on acording to my ear meter, and my electronic sound meter!

mp3car

some low level converters i've seen were basically a resistor network, with potentiometers on the final low-level output, which, technically i dont think would introduce that much noise. But, at the same time, i am still sort of an advocate of tapping into the low level signal, but then you will need a prety good patch cable to run to the back.

Something people really need to think about. There is a VERY good possibility that the signal going to the amp is a BALANCED signal, which means the "-" wire, doesnt sit flat with refference to ground with only the positive wire carrying the signal, which is the case in most aftermarket systems - unless of course you are using a head unit and amp(s) that are balanced capable. I really need to get out my O'scope and see see if the signals are balanced or not, maybe I'll do that since I stayed home from work today I will post my results in a new thread.

WDP-Acura TL

Guys help me out now. which is correct? Do I disconnect my factory sub, get a hi-low converter? I am getting a 12" Fosgate Subwoofer and aftermarket amp. I have Navigation in my car. What exactly must I tell the installer to do? I know I need the amp kit, anyone suggest a certain kind? List out everything in laymen's terms, hehe. I don't want to get jipped. I want the best bass sound quality. thanks

ed99

I would get a RockFord Fosgate LOC (You can adjust the sensitivty) for about $35 bucks and tell them to tap off one of the rear speakers to the LOC which will convert to RCA to your aft mkt amp. Go with 4 gauge power and ground wires kit from Phoenix Gold/Monster Cable..etc.

ashaman

www.davidnavone.com

rickneuropa

My worry about using the signal going to the rear speakers is, those speakers are probably not getting the whole bass signal! With them being 6.5, I'm sure the system has a low pass filter to them so as not to blow them with frequencies they can't handle. Which in turn, mean you aren't getting the sub frequencies, especially when listening to DVD-A, as the Sub channel get them directed anyway. I'm staying steadfast in my suggestion, and my use of the sub spreamp signal going into the factory amp in the kickpanel on the passenger side, use the long RCA's that come with an amp kit, cut off one end, and use an inline splice connector for a clean install. Trust me on this.

WDP-Acura TL

yaay, my 12" Rockford Fosgate Sub came in today, now waiting on my amp, dynamat.

ed99

My installer originated tapping off the OEM sub wire and their was too much distortion coming from it. But later hooked up to the rear 6.5 the signal was a lot clearer. I don't understand what you ment by sub frequency?? The focus of this exercise is to take a good signal to convert to RCA to the aft mkt amp and in return your aft mkt amp should have a built in Low Pass x-over which will filter out all the high frequency out and allowing only low frequency such as for example 40hz to 100hz. Hope this helps!!

rickneuropa

Then your installer must have tapped into the wrong signal originally. And your installer should know better than to tap into a signal going into a 6.5" speaker for sub information. Let me clearify what I mean. A 6.5 speaker is usually rated to go as low as say 80hz. I believe the factory speaks are rated from 15khz-80hz. Normally when you install a speaker with this type of rating, you set your amp to a hi pass filter above 80hz. So your not sending any information below 80 hz that would overdrive the speaker into distortion, or worse, blowing the speaker. So taking that type of normal configuration, I'm saying, if Panasonic is doing this, and your tapping that signal for your bass, your missing everything from about 60hz down, taking into consideration that the hi pass filter is the 12db/octive variety.
Now if the 6.5" speaker is constucted such that is naturally rolls off below 80hz mechanically, then they may be sending the full signal to them. Even if that is the case. DVD-A and DTS have a separate signal for bass information, hence the .1 in 5.1. When setup correctly, only the sub bass information is sent to the sub, not the other 5 speakers. If you've ever setup a Home theater with a DVD such as Home Theater Essentials, you'll know that they have tests that specifically test for this. If your getting bass information coming into your sattelite speakers, then your bass/sub settings are wrong, and you need to get them right for it to sound the way it's meant to be, and to prevent distortion, or damage to the sattelites. Does that make sence?

ed99

I think all WDP-Acura TL wants to know is where is the best signal to take to line up with the LOC. So all I am saying in my previous msg is the best signal source would be the 6.5 speakers and not the OEM Sub. By doing this, he will still have all the OEM mids/tweets working from the OEM amp but to use only an aftmkt amp to push the aftmkt subs. In results, will work very well for added base to the existing system. That is why I was confuse when you mentioned about the low frequency for the OEM Sub. Yes the OEM sub is for low frequency only and nothing else because nothing should be coming out from that sub but base only. Therefore, the frequency being low compare to high has created more distortion compare to high level. That is all I am trying to say is to use the 6.5 speakers to tap off to get a better signal to your aftmkt amp compare to OEM SUB signal.