Has anyone install a shock sensor by yourself?

Would I need to use diodes? Is there anyway to tap into the fuse box for constant +12v or would I have to tap into the wire itself?

 

no need for a diode

all you need are 3 wires, constant +12V, ground, and most sensors have a - signal wire

everything except for the signal wire is easy to find

 

What are you wiring the shock sensor to? The stock alarm system?

 

The signal wire i'm using is the green/white (-) behind fuse box green plug. Another one is the door trigger green/red (-) wire, green 5 pin plug behind fusebox.

Let's say if I use the door trigger wire or the green/white wire and don't use a diode, will the door trigger or green/white wire trigger not work properly?

zax123: I'm wiring the shock sensor to the stock alarm system.

 

6mtV6, the door trigger wire behind the fusebox isn't so great, cuz it's connected to the dome light and does the delayed fading thing. It's better to do a diode-isolated connection to the four individual switch wires coming from the actual doors. You can get to them in the bundle of wires on the driver's side coming up to the fuse box from the door sill.

Why does the shock sensor need a door trigger wire? Just out of curiosity? Is it so that it is only active when all doors are closed?

 

Do you know if the green/white (-) wire will be good?
Your right about the dome light. Thanks.

The shock sensor doesn't need a door trigger wire. It needs an alarm input wire. When the shock sensor detects any shocks/impacts to the vehicle, it sends a signal to the factory alarm to set it off.
I just thought maybe you can use the door trigger wire as the alarm input wire.

 

what is the green/white wire?

 

I got it from here.

http://www.designtech-intl.com/Conte...l?modelID=1790

I just says alarm input wire.

 

I meant to say, "It just says it's alarm input wire".

 

Ah! In that case, just find any one of the four door switch wires in the bundle I mentioned. The shock sensor will ground that wire simulating that door being opened. If you need color codes, I can scan the appropriate page from the electrical service manual.

You could test that it works by finding the wire, clipping a test clip to ground, closing and locking all doors, and then grounding that wire to see if the alarm goes off...

 

the only problem with doing that is that unless you cut the power to the shock sensor when the car is running, the shock sensor will constantly set off the doors/dome light.

 

Oh, I thought the shock sensor would have a way of only being active when the car is off. You could tap into the ignition wire and using a relay give power to the shock sensor only when the car is off... might be a good idea in any case.

 

I would appreciate the scan from the electrical service manual. Thanks.

rbf351: If you find the right alarm input wire than you won't have to worry about the shock sensor constantly setting off the doors/dome light or any other lights, right?
If the alarm input wire is only active when the factory alarm is armed than it should be fine. Is the green/white wire the right one?

 

I'll get that scan for you and I'll check out which wire will trigger the alarm... the electrical service manual is good for that.

 

Thanks.

 

that is correct, in my 03 CL the way i hooked it up was to the trunk wire which was a negative. now it's a positive. basically when the sensor went off the alarm would think someone opened the trunk and set off the alarm. i forgot how i hooked up the power, but i know i hooked it to something that switched off when the ignition was turned on, this way the indicator on the cluster didn't light up every time i hit a bump


you can still use the trunk wire, but you would need to use a relay to get the shock sensor to become a + input wire(we simple to do)

it looks like the green/white will is hooked into the dome lights and is also the alarm input

 

When I installed my remote starter/alarm system, I found a negative trunk trigger wire. I can tell you where it is when I get home if you'd like. But I would definitely power the system only when the car is off. It's relatively easy to do with an automotive relay if you have some kicking around. Refer to this image:



Tie pin 86 to ground.
Tie pin 85 to the ignition wire on in the ignition harness at the fusebox (black/yellow I think).
Tie pin 30 to the white ignition wire in the ignition harness at the fusebox.
Tie pin 87a to the power wire on the shock sensor.

That way when the ignition is on, the shock sensor doesn't get power. When it's off, it does.

I had originally posted another way to do this, but it was stupid, disregard it. This is much better. Sorry.

 

Do you have a picture of the white ignition wire in the ignition harness at the fusebox? Where exactly is it located?

 

Isn't 30 for the device and 87a to the +12V constant?

 

Sorry 6mtV6, been out of it. Here's the scan from the electrical manual showing you the door trigger wires at the bottom. You only need to tap into one of them.



And here's a scan from the electrical manual showing the fusebox (I wasn't going to take my car apart ). The arrow points to the connector that houses the huge white always hot wire but I'd use the black w/red stripe wire which is hot when the key is in the ignition position for the relay.



In my last message I said to tie 30 to the white ignition wire, I meant the black/red. And 30 can be the device or 87a, it doesn't REALLY matter, as long as the other one is the ignition wire.

 

Thanks for the scan.