ociaran,

Nice job! Where did you get the face plate for the tab? I noticed you lost the buttons on the bottom below the screen. Nice touch!

It also looks like you clipped the green connector that runs all your AC stuff and did some additional wiring? Can you elaborate on that?

Also if you have time list some of the apps you use. Have you found anything that makes things easier for car use? And car specific apps? Thanks!

 

Ok i like this setup......however, i have a couple of setup of my own & want to see if they could be combine... i have the nav-tv setup with custom dvd in the rear arm rest & a pioneer back up camera & an apple ipod intergrate...ALSO i wanted to know do keep the factory navi settings as far as the comman & prompt as previously mentioned?

 

I have a non-navi TL, and I think this would be a fantastic alternative to the 1.8k~ cost of installing the OEM system. Does the top display that shows
the AC info, time and XM info connect to the OEM navi? If so, that'd be great - I could just buy a used nav unit and AC/time display, as well as
the tablet, and it would still end up being much cheaper.

 

gyphter,

sorry for taking so long. haven't been on here lately. i got the bezel off ebay - it's a non-navi which is why there are no buttons below the screen. i think i only paid around $30. it also came with the HVAC buttons and the LCD. that let me keep mine in my car while i worked on the bezel and splicing the wires.

i originally took the wires i soldered to the power button and attached one to the passenger side temp UP button and the other to the temp DOWN button. this allowed me to turn the tablet on and off when i pressed both buttons simultaneously. it worked great outside of the car, but when i plugged in the green AC connector into the car the tablet started bugging out. went to radioshack and bought a power button which i put where the fog light switch would normally go. (looking at my pics, i honestly don't know why i cut and extended the green AC wiring...just made some extra work for myself)

lastly, the apps i'm using are Car Home Ultra (that's what you see in the pics with all the big buttons). it's a nice app that allows you to customize what buttons you want and even what colors - i tried to match mine as close as i could to the blue and red on the gauge cluster. I use DoubleTwist to stream podcasts and just the stock google music player for most of my music. is there anything else you are using that you would recommend??

 

Gyphter,

p.s. i'm also using AutomateIt and set up rules as follows - if charging, then: open Car Home Ultra, set display to never time out, turn brightness to 100%, turn on wifi, turn on bluetooth. if not charging, then: set display to timeout in 15 sec, turn off wifi, turn off bluetooth.

 

I wish I wasnt an electrical retard, otherwise, I wouldve done this already.

 

Amazing install

i am so interested in doing something like this, i work for At&t and use android for my phone and have always wanted to see if this was possible and then i stumble upon this!

Thanks for sharing i have done installs on my car but i am a little apprehensive to an install like this one, is there a possibility you could give us those that would love to be blessed with such an install a step by step as to what you did please

 

Thanks OP for this post! I am looking to do the same, since I have the cracked screen, and factory map still works, but not touch screen. I see the benefit of the upgrade and how it will be better down the road. Couple questions I wanted to toss your way:

Did you need to cut the area behind the screen, like the frame, etc. where the nav screen is/was?

How did you handle audio out > factory system?

Is it possible (if convenient) to retain XM, since I use it daily?

Was finding the correct leads in the factory system fairly easy? I am a novice, in the area of the tablet type rewiring. I have extensive car audio XP, but the idea of the solders and moving the boards in the droid kinda scares me a bit.

Thanks in advance for the answers. I hate to be a trouble, but I really want to do this with a Samsung Galaxy Tab 2 7.0 in my 05 TL/Nav

 

I just got my A100 and Im gonna be starting on my project here soon. Mines a non-nav so Im gonna relocate the factory radio and hvac display to the lower dash like ociaran did... I hope you and gryphter are still around here cause I might have to ask some questions if I get stuck... I do some computer programming too so Im gonna try to write something that will switch it to a backup cam automatically... if I can wire in a camera to the tablet somehow. I gotta open it up and check out the internals to see if I can rig up the acer's rear facing cam first of all... Thanks for the writeup and pics, they will come in very handy.

 

LuckyDave,

Breaking open my tab was definitely scary! Cracking it open and seeing all those tiny microcircuits and knowing that I had just passed the point of no return (literally - can't return it to the store!) was daunting. However, now that I have done it, it doesn't see that hard. I think the key is go slow, think through all the way to the very end, and be patient.

I had to remove the plastic frame pieces from the tab. No other way to do it. Why? In order for the audio and power connections to fit, I had to re-arrange the circuit boards inside. Turn them at 90 degree angles and such to make them fit. It's not that the tab itself wouldn't fit in the space, but once you plug in the audio jacks/cords to carry the signal down to the radio and for power there isn't enough room on the sides. There isn't a way to cut out anything because your temp control buttons are right there.

I don't know how the Samsung will work for you, but I can tell you that if it is wider that the Acer 100 then there is a chance it won't fit. The Acer was almost an exact fit.

- Another idea would be to go with a smaller tab (if there is one) and find a screen bezel that would hide the gaps. Thus giving you more room to route your cords. (But that would mean smaller screen than the factory. Blech.)

: - Try removing your nav bezel and take it into the store with you before you buy your tab!

Everything you need on the audio diagrams for the radio are in this forum. Here are some helpful links:

https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-audio-bluetooth-electronics-navigation-94/wiring-diagram-593599/ about half-way down the page are some scans of the manual showing connector diagrams for the radio.

Removing Center Console:
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2004-2008-93/those-who-have-service-manual-i-need-help-3g-garage-f-052-a-557238/ - Removing the center console

https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-performance-parts-modifications-112/comptech-short-shifter-install-pics-3g-garage-086-a-590326/ - this provides some great pics, although it is for a shifter install

You mentioned XM. Since I don't use XM I just robbed the inputs on the radio for that. If you use XM, then you could either put a switch to go back and forth between the tab audio and xm or follow some of the other audio solutions posted in the forum.

 

I got my A100 diassembled, heres a video I found that helped (its in Russian though):


Its really quite easy to take apart, just take your time and be careful.

 

So how tight was the fit? With the new iPad mini out, I wonder if it could fit? Apple says it is Height: 7.87 inches (200 mm) Width: 5.3 inches (134.7 mm) Depth: 0.28 inch (7.2 mm).

Acer says the A100 is 195 x 117 x 13.1 mm (7.68 x 4.61 x 0.52 in)...so the iPad mini is definitely bigger.

Another question while I'm at it (not for the OP): How do you get the clear screen cover off the non-navi? Heat gun?

 

The iPad mini wont fit then, the A100 barely fits between the AC buttons:


The clear screen on the non-nav- I measured and cut it so the A100 screen would fit perfectly in there, then I taped it off and just used a razor to cut through it. The plastic cover bends and snaps right off. I just finished putting mine in like 2hrs ago so Im working on a full DIY, Ill have it up tomorrow with a shitload of pics.

 

You could disassemble a home dock to get into that tight of a space. The connector doesn't come out of the tab very far, and the ribbon cable will allow you to bend it past the buttons.

 

Thats a good idea, I didnt have a home dock for mine. So you can charge it and play music all through the ports on there? That wouldve been perfect and you could probabyl even keep the tablet together like in your pic.

 

Yeah the tablet is left unmodified. If you look at the second picture there is a 3.5 headphone port right on the circuit board. So you could hookup both a charging cable and audio cable on the same spot. It should allow for maximum clearance since all you have to squeeze past the switches is the ribbon cable.

 

I dont think they make a dock for the A100 though

 

What tablet are you using? Not having to disassemble would be a huge win.

 

That one he used isnt for TL it looks like

 

Here is my setup, I went with a Galaxy Tab 2, WiFi only version. I also run car home ultra for a home screen, but I also made a splash screen that looks stock when first loading up. Also i'm running tasker to allow automation ( loading up when key is turned on, and shutting screen back off when car is shut off). Also one more is torque, it allows you to setup custom gauges to monitor engine vitals and even check and clear engine codes.


Splash screen



Car Home Ultra



Gauge Layout ( Torque )


That was pictures from another install, i didn't get any good pictures of mine going in. Here is his install if you want to read it... http://www.mp3car.com/show-off-your-...t-install.html

 

Damn that looks badass, it fits perfectly in that opening. I might have to buy that torque app- it looks sweet.

 

Yah, I use tasker to key a lot of stuff off the acura HFL connection right now. Too bad that's not a 3g TL I'd have to check clearances to see if it'll fit in the 3g.

 

First off, thanks Gryphter for the inspiration and great pictures to help me get this done. I only bought my car last month and within a few days of having it saw your post.. Later that week I had my tablet in-hand and the next week I had it installed. I couldn't be happier.

I'm having an issue with it though that maybe you guys could shed some light on. (I have it connected to the "always on" power that feeds the radio and don't power off the unit.) The issue though is with turning the screen on and off. Sometimes the screen turns on/off immediately with the button press while often I have to hit it multiple times to get a response. Other times it is completely non-responsive and I have to hold down the button for a few seconds to get the "would you like to power off?" but I hit "cancel" and then the screen turns off/on again like normal.

My initial thought was about the 12v power input and I wondered if inconsistent power could cause my problems. I know the 12v car voltage can fluctuate quite a bit dropping to maybe 7v on cranking and then running close to 14v with spikes and dips when accessories/engine components turn off and on. Any thoughts on this or has anyone (Gryphter) else had issues hooking up directly to cars 12v DC supply?

 

I haven't had those issues. As far as the voltage goes, keep in mind that the internal tablet battery acts as a voltage regulator. So I don't think that is causing your issues. I would guess that your solder points on the power button aren't clean enough. In other words you may have some solder causing a slight short between your pins. Looks great though!

Make sure to post your favs from the app store and how you are using it!

 

The only power problem Im having is that it will stop charging every so often, it seems like it does it only after the car is warmed up and the alternator is cranking out 14.5 volts, so I think its something to do with an overvoltage condition maybe. I am gonna try to find a +12V constant wire to hook it up to like Gryphter did because I have it hooked to a ACC wire at the fuse box now.

 

You guys did an amazing job on these car tablets, I most likely attempting this soon. I have some questions before I get into this, want to prepare everything. My set up would be like members moving the radio and HVAC to the bottom, was wondering what you guys to use hold the Acer 100 to the plastic frame and what was used to hold the radio and HVAC to the plexiglass then the plexiglass to the bottom console. One last question is how would you run the audio wire from the Acer to the radio in details. Thanks in advance.

 

I been thinking about the rear view camera since people was talking about it, since technology is so advanced now there might be a small webcam camera that we connects thru USB ports that can work for rear view. I wouldnt know how you would wire it to work when in reverse but you can simply press a button to activate it on the screen if possible only when its hard to see when reversing. It's just a suggestion so dont bash haha. I might be trying the webcam out when I do this mod.

 

most tablets come with cameras built in, why not wire the stock back up camera directly to the tablet?

 

Could you place the stock nav in the lower cubby to keep the back up camera and all other stock radio features?

 

most defiantly, thats what i will be up to in the next month or 2, just gotta elongate the 4 connections that come to the back of the navi screen.

 

I'm interested in seeing how that would turn out. I don't even use those cubbies anyway. In for pics!

 

i have the new Samsung Galaxy Tab 2 7" laying around and everything i need to install it, just looking for this oem piece by itself, anyone have one laying around or know anyone not using theirs that i can buy? i just simply need the plastic piece nothing else. (has to be from base non-navi model)

 

I hadn't thought about the battery acting as a voltage regulator. I thought that the battery was completely bypassed when plugged in (aside from pulling a enough electricity for a charge) and the tablet could even run if the battery was removed. I could pull everything back out and re-check connections but the responsiveness problem really seems to be related to what state the car is in with relation to alternator/battery output. It also coincides with what Turbocoop mentiond about it not charging sometimes. As long as the car is idling or off, the power button responds like it should. Turbo, (or Gryphter if you know) let us know where a constant/regulated 12v can be found. I feel like it would be much better for the life of the tablet too.

As for usage, I just have Car Widget for large icons and mainly listen to Pandora and Slacker with the occasional Google Maps. Nothing too crazy.

I used a plastic epoxy to glue the tablet to the frame as well as the acrylic sheet to the frame for the bottom display. As for holding the display to the acrylic, you'll have to get a bit more creative. I set screws into the plastic on either side of the display circuit board and then used single-strand 12 gauge (maybe 10 - really thick) wire pulled across the board and around the screws like a bracket (I hope that makes sense.) Probably could have glued the edges of the display to the acrylic but I was worried that it wouldn't hold to the black spray paint. If I decide to pull it back off to work out my power issues I'll take some pictures. As for the audio to radio: I cut the end off of a 3.5mm auxiliary wire with the other end plugged into the headphone jack. Then snipped the XM inputs to the radio and spliced them together. Left+ to left+, right+ to right+ and all three negatives (left and right to radio and the only one from tablet wire.)

XM wires are on the smaller connector on the corner.
Right Ch + = White (To red from tablet)
Left Ch + = Red (To white from tablet)
Right Ch - = Black (To ground from tablet)
Left Ch - = Green (To ground as well)

Note: Connecting white to red and red to white really bothered me but traditionally with audio, red is right, white is left.. so I made this assumption for the tablet side. The radio side colors is from the service manual so I just went with it.

 

Looks like a few on ebay although most include the buttons and display. Might be your best bet.


http://www.ebay.com/itm/04-05-Acura-...sories&vxp=mtr

 

Thanks for the reply, will try it out once I receive my tablet.

 

I apologize in advance for thread jacking, but here are some info if anyone wanna install the Samsung Galaxy Tab 2 7".
I finally got my non-navi screen from 04 tl, cut the screen out with a dremmel.
I will remove the lower trays and use this frame for my oem navi screen, and the tablet gonna be replaced instead of my navi up above.
Tablet fits perfectly into the metal enclosure as you can see in the pics, you can use the metal back enclosure to make any custom holding bracket for the tablet. The frame is still under construction, and will need to be sanded down, primed and painted...











I bought a tablet dock and took it apart as some of you did before to get the to the dock connector flex cable. http://www.ebay.com/itm/281019996067...84.m1497.l2649
Also if you want to charge the tablet and use a USB host (such as keyboard, mouse or even 64gb flash drives) here is a solution that i came up with.
I bought the 30 pinout of the Samsung Tab connector that will plug into my flex cable dock..



You can buy one here... http://shop.kineteka.com/p/200/samsung-tabbreakout

Here is a schematic on how to connect the Power with USB host config.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/show...53&postcount=1

I will be using this for my USB hub in the glove compartment..
http://www.ebay.com/itm/120901278152...84.m1497.l2649

I will be posting more of the DIY soon when I get the center console out and do more cutting and fitting.

 

Nice man.Very clean job!

 

finally had sometime to install the Samsung Galaxy Tab 2 and move my oem nav down instead of the trays, not gonna go into details just couple pics, if have any questions PM me

 

Nice job, I'm also working on mines right now but still figuring out what I want to do =/

 

ace2525 & myron... I saw this done on youtube with a non-navi set up... as soon as i find the link I'll post it