OMG!!!!!! The music system kicks @$$...I just added a Rockford Fosgate 400S with two 10" Punch Subs and WOWWW!!!! I got the installation done at Best Buy and it cost me $100 bucks (that includes the line-out converter that I had to buy)...The music system sounds sooooo much richer and more detailed...there isn't much rattling in the trunk, but the license plate rattles so I will probably get dynomat for that but overall, if anyone plans on installing amps & subs in their car, I WOULD DEFINITELY RECOMMEND IT


- Jinen

 

Nice, I can't wait to see what mine will sound like when I get the basslink. I am sure it wont be half as loud as yours, I just want some more bass.

 

i have questions...

is your new amp just doing the subs or the speakers as well?
Were you able to keep the old amp in there?
Was it a messy install?

I want to buy really nice components and in order to do so i might need a better amp to power them, but am afraid that it is going to be a messy job. I have nav system if it matters. I just dont want to hurt the beautiful interior! I would be paying a professional to do this of course. THANKS

 

pics?

 

i will post pics in a few days...

the install looked quite simple...the old amp (ELS amp) is still in the car (located at the passenger side kick panel)....the guy at best buy installed the line out converter right next to the ELS amp and then ran the RCA and remote wires through the passenger side into the trunk...then the power cable was ran from the trunk through the front of the car but through the drivers' side...the ground was connected below the rear passenger seats...and my amp is installed behind my box...it wasn't a messy job at all...the new amp just does the subs...but the coolest part of this install is that i can control the new subs with the nav unit...in the option where we can control the subwoofer strength, from OFF to +6, i can control the two new subs from there as well...and on top of that, i also have another switch/knob that also controls the strength...so it's pretty convenient...i just told them that i don't want anyone to take my head unit apart (cause i have navi also) so i don't want anyone to fiddle with that...and this worked out and it's kicking @$$...

i will post pics soon...sorry but just been way too busy lately...but in a few days

- Jinen

 

Post pics of your sub/box/and install would be awesome!!!

 

you never posted pics

 

 

if you are going to talk up your system and stuff man, u GOTTA post pics, or if you cant, get someone to post them for you! And how long has it been since u posted?!?

 

hey "someone" let us know how that basslink sounds when you install it. I am interested in getting one

 

they will sound real full... not too "thumpy bumpy" ... i used to work at a circuit city, and we had them there... we put one in a new accord and it sounded real nice... dont buy it if yo are lookin to shake rattle and roll the car next to you tho.... you can barely hear it outside the car... but inside, it sounds really clean.

 

This is how you post pics of stereo installs

BTW this is my b/f's system...his system makes me sick everytime im in the car...

 

I bet this system rattles the trunk like nuts. I have a similar set-up running 1200watts into a pair of Dual VOice Coil 12's facing the rear trunk. My trunk flexes and rattles like their is no tommorrow. Hoping to dynomat the trunk to prevent the rattles. So have you taken any pre-meausure in preventing trunk rattles??

 

I wanted a little something that did not take too mich room and can easily be removed so:

10's, perfect fit:


Amp under seat:


For the amp, they were out of stock on the JL 250/1, so they sold me the Kenwood 250/2 and bridged it. It's nice and small.

The 10's are adequate. The amp output gain is only set to about 30%. I am used to 12's in my other systems that I used to do myself.

They used the line out audio from the Subwoofer so I too can control the bass level from the NAV while keeping the stock sub (more like mid-bass)

The only problem I see in this configuration is that the stock sub level is not linear to the other speakers in relation to the volume level. The SW level rises to max quickly (0-10) and stays about the same from 10-40. So for heavy-bass music like hip-hop/rap the sub-level has to be dropped all the way down at normal listening levels because it drowns out the other speakers. But at high volume the sub-level can be raised to boost the BOOM.

 

He's dynomatted the entire car... especially the trunk. But he readjusted the trunk closure so it closes tighter and doesn't rattle. He also moved his license plate so it isn't right against the car. Sometimes when he has it on, it tickles my nose because the bass is so strong, but very clear and not distorted at all... I'm jealous, and he knows it... now if I could just get my stuff installed...

 

I have two JL amps 500x1 and 300x4 w/ 2 JL 10W6 V2's.

What do I need to do to install without affecting Navi or stereo controls. How do you get the line out? Is there a special Hi/Low converter that everyone recommends? Can I run both amps? I am not looking for competition sound but want a little more than what the stock ELS can provide.

For all you guys who have installed systems, has there been a lot of inside rattling? IS there a lot os distortion from stock mids or do you just trun the bass down and use the subs for the lows?

Thanks for the help!

 

So is all the rattles gone just by dynomatting the trunk and the whole car. I thought dynomatting the trunk will get most of the rattles but not all. I say that because my trunk flexes so much when turned up and I find it not possible to get rid of the rattles 100%. So how much did it cost to dynomat just the trunk??? PLus how can I tighten the trunk closure??? YOur help is much appreicated!!!

 

you can get a 4 channel Hi -Low pass and that should fix all the problems to hook everythin up but you need to tape it into your factory amp...for your remote wire you need to find a constant 12v line for that and run the power and ground to front to back...

 

dynomate doesn't solve the rattle in the car i wish it did tho...but you can just a door kit and will do the whole car minus the roof of the car...that cost about 100 bucks or you can use the dynomate spray that came out just awhile ago and heard that was pretty good but that is goin to make the car more heavy...

 

I think I am going to bring my TL to a shop to get someone to dynomat just the trunk. I hope that won't put alot of extra weight to the car. However I do find my passanger mirror light just between the shade flip rattle alot. One of these days I have to take the light apart to see what is making it rattle so much.

 

you can take it to a shop but i think its goin to cost a good amount of money...i think you should just buy the stuff and do it yourself cause its really easy and not pay that extra money if you don't need too...

 

I really want a JL 1000/1 w/ a 13 inch W7, but I know that all that would do is completely create more rattles in this car and destroy any chance of my car feeling tight in particular spots.

 

Lokius,

Whith that set-up I will guarantee lots of rattles in the trunk. The JL is a mono-block amp and is very capable of running over 1200watts into 2ohms and currently I am running around 1200watts and my trunk rattles like no tommorrow.

J'sTL,

I would love to do it myself but I don't want to screw anything up with the panels. I rather have a pro do it even if I have to pay for it. But I hope it won't be too expensive. Maybe $300 including parts and labour for the whole trunk.

 

So is it a certainty that if you hook up any type of subs to the system that the trunk will rattle uncontrollably? Is it rattleing that you hear on the outside of the car or on the inside? I defintely do not want rattles in the car! Anyway around this.

I was going to put in (from my other car) 2 10 W6 V2 with 500x1 and a 300x4

Is this not a good idea?

I really wanted to avoid dynamat or foam.

 

The JL W7 runs at 3 ohms.

 

Jinen - So everything works like normal, just now you have low end kick? Nav works still? Music gets cut off like normal, still? I want to add 2 10's but I'm afraid of messing with the Nav system that I'm wicked reluctant to touch/modify anything.

Any plans to upgrade the cabin speakers?

 

ohh sh!t, i totally forgot about the pictures lol...sorry about that!!! in a month and a half i'll take pics of my entire car and all the mods that i've done in it...so middle of april!!!

drsprite:

everything works like normal...i can turn the subs off when i want...turn them on when i want...turn them to whatever level i want...nav still works properly...music gets cut off like normal...it's definitely an awesome mod...but now i'm starting to hear some SLIGHT rattle in the trunk...i think it's the license plate, so eventually i will dynomat the license plate...and maybe the trunk...i really don't keep it loud...i don't want any screws getting loose lol...

 

we want pics NOW