I have a Canadian version 08 Type S 6 Spd KBP. I am working on redoing my speakers and decided to add Bluetooth for my music. I had to get a BT45-HON3 for Bluetooth even though I have navigation because the Canadian versions are apparently different. I am going to run 6.5” Morel Tempo Ultra components in the front. I think I need about a 1” spacer and to cut some metal to make the woofer fit. In the rear I’m running 6.5” Morel Tempo Ultra coaxial’s. Seems like a 1/4” spacer will work and no cutting there. I’m installing an LC6i in the trunk. I tapped the front left and front right speaker wires right after the amp to get signal for the LC6i. The wiring vs. wiring schematic was good. In the rear the previous owner replaced the speakers with kicker KS 60’s (which I did not know) Until I saw them. I’m not sure what wire colors are there but I noticed the factory sub wires were red and red/black. The schematic say they should be yellow/black and light green/red. Does that seem correct? I was planning on tapping off the end of those wires for my signals since I’ll be running new wire direct from my amp.

Also, I’m dynamatting my trunk, rear deck and under my rear seat. Any tips? In the trunk back where you would access your side markers, should I put a sheet across all that or just cover the metal and leave it all open? I got the mat and the pad material. I’m hoping it helps with the drone from the XLR8 catback.

any advice would be appreciated.

 

I do not think you will have much difficulty fitting the mid driver in the door. plenty of space. Running the LCI after the crappy OEM amp is just a bad decision. if you want to use a processor use a pre amp signal and avoid the terrible amplification and distortion. I would leave the kicker mids in the rear and use only for rear fill if needed. Never add a tweeter behind you. the soundstage will be forever destroyed. No coaxials in the rear deck. sound deaden the front doors inside and out. use as much deadening as you can afford. You can see my adventure here along with lots of good information and dialog with others. https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-a...-fever-854353/

 

audio control is the one who told me to tie in after the factory amp not before. What does tying in after the amp for the signal do? It’s just a signal not for power.

I had to cut my door and add a 1 1/8” spacer to get the woofer to fit.






Thanks

 

Yes, there is plenty of room for the mid driver in the door. I was thinking that the LC6i was a processor, that is just a LOC. what are you using for amplification? If you choose the correct amp it will work just fine with the low level signal from the HU and you can avoid the LOC completely. What your doing is taking an already amplified and noisy high level output and converting it to a low level signal to be used by your amp. There is no need for that. Use the cleanest signal you can use always.

 

Im using a JL RD400/4 for the speakers. I haven’t decided on the sub. I have a JL 12W7 that is 16 years old. Was gunna throw it in with an old amp but the foam was all deteriorated. (Been in basement for years). I just got in the replacement foam and I’m thinking I’ll upgrade to newer amp technology too. I got the lc6i to hook up the sub too. I don’t mind running it. I already created a spot to mount it in the trunk. I tapped off the wires for the fronts right at the plug coming off the amp. I ran 12 gauge for that back to the trunk. Was gunna use 12 gauge and tap off the ends of the rears and rear sub to go to the lc6i for my signals. I have all new 12 gauge for the new speakers except for the front doors. I had to splice into the wire going through the loom to the plug. I wasn’t messing around with drilling a new hole. I would have had to take my door off.

I’m not going for a competition sound, I just love listening to music when cruising.

some pics of my progress.





I only have 2 sheets left of the deadening material so I ordered more. I plan to do the rear deck and bottom of rear seats too. I’m also covering in the foam once done. Hoping it helps with the drone of my exhaust. My camera on my phone is messed up so pics suck

 

You cannot have to much deadening..............I think your close...haha That should knock down a lot of roadnoise and sound. If you are using a JL amp you absolutely do not need the LC6i. Use the low level signal directly from the HU. I am running a JL XD700/5 4 channels bridged to front components. sub channel going to a single 15" infinite baffle. rear deck OEM speakers still on factory amp for rear fill only. center channel on factory amp too. You do not need anything coming from the rear, and this maintains center channel voice prompts. You can take the sub output from HU and run to new (appropriate) amp for sub. this will maintain sub control from the HU. That is not what I did. The sub signal from the HU has already been manipulated in the HU so I used the full range left and right signal directly to the amp and let the JL amp tailor the signal to the sub. then add the JL remote level adjustment to the amp for sub control. let me know if you have any questions. I realize my thread about my adventure is a long one, but very valuable information in there.

 

im not technically savy at all, so all of the tech jargon used in these posts go right over my head. however, with that being said.... i am dismantling the TL today to upgrade my internal speakers and sub, plus adding an additional amp for the sub.

i cant take any credit for this, as i am basically copying another owners modification list step by step. however, what i can say is that there will be no need forwfor splicing or anything complicated....which is why i chose to go this route.

i wanted an easy enough install, without having to cut doors and stuff while giving the stock audio a big bump in performance. this install with allow me to use every original wire to the current speakers and also the stock amp to power them. i am adding an additional amp.for the sub thou.

i will post my progress in a seperate thread, but i am very pleased and comfortable to not have to do anything complicated...which appears to be somewhat the case in this thread.

feel free to dm me for info

 

You will need to splice wires, no way around that. This is not a simple car to mod the stereo in. What are you planning on doing. If it involves maintaining the OEM amplification for anything other than center channel and rear fill then I would suggest you rethink your strategy.

 

I called audio control today and they said they designed their LC6i to be installed after the factory amplifiers. You can’t install it before. It’s need a high level signal not a low one. Since I already bought it I figure I’ll try it out and if it sucks then I’ll go the other route. I already ran the wires to my rear from the front and I got the power wire there right off the battery with an in-line fuse. All I have to do now is extend the rear factory wires to the part of my trunk with the LC6i. I’ll let you know once I get it together and see how it sounds.

 

Im not touching the head unit, the stock navigation screen is staying for now....
im using the stock amp for all speakers besides the sub (which will have its own dedicated amp)
-the stock speakers are being replaced with JBL GX602s (door x2, and rear deck x 2)
-centre speaker is getting swapped out for a kicker DSC3504
-and the sub is getting a drop in free air, shallow mount pioneer
oh and the tweeters are going to be swapped with Jl audio c1-100ct's

 

great keeping the HU
So your plan is to have 6 tweeters?
HAHAHA! I checked your center channel and it is a coaxial too! woooo hoooo 7 tweeters!
I think we are done here

 

lol.you dont what your talking about.
i dont need to explain much, all i know is that ive sat in a TL with this exact same setup (minus a different amp) and its an amazing sound.

you maybe still living in 2002 with 2 12inch subs in your trunk. but w.e floats your boat bud

 

what sub model is it? That area is really shallow. I would really consider how many tweeters you’ll have. Atleast ditch the ones in the doors.

 

So you actually admit you do not have any idea what your doing and your copying a set up that someone else came up with that has 7 tweeters and you tell me I do not know what I am talking about. Hilarious.
Oh yes, the shallow pioneer is a piece of crap by the way. you may as well keep the OEM sub in there. I run a single 15" in IB but I do not expect that to mean anything to you.

If your going to copy something you have no idea about you should at least copy a legitimate design. Run your proposed design past any person with any experience with car audio and see what your response is. start off with letting them know your tweeter count.
You actually cannot explain much because you do not understand a thing about what your trying to do.

 

I said from the outset that im not technically savy when it comes to car audio, so not sure why your panties get so wet over this, but hey th6ays a good thing right?

here's my thinking...
Having a tweeter in each speaker means that it can handle a wider range of sound. I chose to go with coaxial speakers (ones with built in tweeters) because I wanted the high frequency sound to be more spread out across the car and not just up front. Feels like more of a surround sound experience, and the rear speakers sound more clear with the extra tweeters in the back. Having the extra tweeters in the front doors helps fill out the sound in the front and you can aim the tweeters to point upwards to where you're sitting.
The kicker speaker benefits a lot with the extra tweeter since it handles much of the vocals in music.

If you wanted a little more bass from the 6.5s, then you'd go for speakers with just a woofer and no tweeter. Theyre dedicated to the mid and low range frequency, so they'll naturally sound a little better in those areas.

Main reasons why I went with 6.5s that had built in tweeters was because those speakers worked well with the factory sound system. They had higher sensitivity so it worked better with the factory amp's power, and they matched the impedance ratings on the factory speakers.

Having the extra tweeters isn't bad since the speakers will still do the same job. You're just now giving them the capability to play a wider range of sound and it'll sound more balanced in the car.

 

completely incorrect on so many levels. It is your car so do what you want. You may just want to run that "thinking" past anyone at your nearest car audio shop and see what they have to say.
Or google search.........."should I ever have more than two tweeters in my car audio system?" Also google search "comb filtering" You will have serious phasing and cancellation issues.

 

I got everything in speaker related. The lc6i was pissing me off with the “hiss” noise it was causing. I had to turn the gains down on it even tho that is not how audio control says to set it up. The speakers sound amazing. I’m actually debating on putting in a sub at this point. My hold up now is determining where and how I want to mount my amp for the speakers. I was going to do a rack under the rear deck but that will make it hard to get a sub in/out if I needed too. I think I’m just going to make a board that bolts to the back of the rear seat cross members. That opening in the center of the seats is pointless anyways. I’ll mount my amp for the speakers on the passenger side, distribution block up top in the center and leave room for a sub amp and cap if I decide to add it later. I could hide it but if something goes then I’d have to rip it all apart to change a fuse. Anyone have any ideas on mounting to the rear seats? I was thinking of using 1/2” wood for a template and then finishing in a 1/2” plastic sheet once I got it all laid out with threaded inserts to fasten it to the structure that bolts to the rear cross members.

 

Your using speaker level inputs to the LOC correct? The hiss is either the post amp signal your trying to use or a bad ground somewhere. I would use cardboard for a template. I dont believe any one is using CAP's at this time

 

Its definitely not a bad ground. I called audio control and they are saying it’s the gain on the amp. They said with their product I shouldn’t need any gain on my amp. I’m gunna mess with it later and see. My amp gain is only 25% up. Are the factory alternators good enough to keep up with the larger stereo draw?

 

I would remove the LOC from the equation and take the low level L/R output from the HU into the JL and your hiss will go away. Same low level L/R signal into sub amp and you will be good. I cannot think of any reason to introduce the LOC if your using JL amps that work perfect with the HU, am I missing something your trying to do? Factory alternator fine with what you got going on. time playing without running varies, but battery usually the weak link there. Edit, if you want factory sub control you need to use the Sub output from HU, my method you need JL remote gain control.

 

i went with the LOC because my friend had it and gave it to me. I messed with it and it sounds much better. Still a little his but not much now. If I changed things up now I’d have to rip apart the whole car again to wire to the HU. Maybe I’ll change it up down the road. I got the AccuBass adder knob that ties into the LOC wired up so I can adjust it up or down if need be. So far everyone I had listen to my speakers is amazed how clear and clean the sound is. The hiss is only with the volume at 0. Very faint now. I’ve run (In other cars) Polks, JL c2’s and infinity kappa perfects and these Morel Tempo Ultras make the others sound like Sony explodes.

 

Factory amp has a TON of white/floor noise even with the radio set to 0 volume. Most folks use a line driver to help raise the factory signal to the requirements of audio processors such as the Rocksford, Audiocontrol, etc. pohljm is right on many points and folks should listen...

 

Can anyone provide the color coding for the wires needed to tap into at the head unit? I’d need fronts, rears and subwoofer. Also is it best to run the speaker wire off of them to the rear to a converter so you only have minimal RCA runs or does it not matter?

Thanks

 

No use RCA to your amp as your using low level signal. your going direct to amp this time?

 

The C6i works but the hiss and now my speakers popping from the amp turning off is annoying. The rem wire is coming off the LC6i. I’m gunna redo it once weather cools down a bit.

You’re saying to wire the RCA’s to the wires that I tap off the HU? I see you can wire to RCA ends or to a converter that you plug the RCA’s into. I’ve never done hat before so I want to do it the best way. I know the wires off the amp but are they the same color coming out of the HU? Which specific ones do I tap off of? Should I cut or just pull back the wire and solder in? What size wire? I used 12ga to wire to the Lc6i. If I use those box converters then I didnt know if I do it close to the head unit and run long RCA’s to the amps or run speaker wire to my trunk to a converter and 3’-6’ RCA’s to the amps

 

I don’t have the JL1000/1 for my 12W7 yet but I got the wires ready for it. That other ground Will be for a cap. I drilled and bolted to the cross braces for the back seat. It’s not fancy but it functions.

 

It looks like your already set with the speaker wires to rca at the rear of car. The only advantage to running RCA's the longer path is they are shielded better. Solder is always better than a crimp or mechanical fastener.

 

wiring diagram

 

All my speaker wires are tied in after the amp and run to the trunk to the LC6i. Unfortunately I’ll have to run everything new again which is why I’m asking what is the best way to do it? Which specific wires do I use? The +/- drivers front woofer and same for passenger and then same concept for rear? When I splice in what size wire do I use and do I run that all the way to the back and then solder on RCA ends?

 

After reading that diagram better I would use the bottom wires to tap off of. The top are after the amp. There is no specific for the woofer and tweeter in front. They just split it afterwards. Still need to know when I tap off of them, how is the best way to do it? Any specifics you can provide? I’ve always just use new head units and ran rca’s to the back.

Thanks for the help.

 

pretty interesting!
I enjoyed reading/learning from this thread!

 

yes the bottom wires. The four on the far right are for the center channel and the subwoofer. My setup may be different than what your after, but here is what I would do. leave the center channel and the rear deck speakers connected as is thru the OEM amp, no change to that. This will maintain all voice prompts and center channel audio if you have 5.1 material and rear fill if you would like it. Abandon the subwoofer signal and use the Front L & R signals directly to your amps. You will need a remote gain control for sub control this way. You can run active if your amps support it otherwise just use a passive crossover for the front mids and tweeters. I would tap into the pre amp out wires and go to RCA as soon as possible. I have my amp under my seat with crossovers rather than running all the way to the trunk.