Very interesting conversation with my transmission builder on the TL
#241
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
I'm guessing your only hope now is to clean out the valve body.. maybe run a solvent then do a 3x3 in hopes of saving it.. How long did you have the CT S/C installed?
#242
Racer
the sc only last for about 1500 miles and that was about 25k miles ago...the fluid was changed at 60k it was a 3x drain and refill at the dealer...i'm just goin to install all the stock parts and take it into the dealer and have them look at...thank god i got the extended warranty
#243
number 7 is the filter...my tranny fluid has always been changed at the dealer and on the invoice it never says anything about replacing a filter...shouldn't the filter be changed when they drain and refill the tranny???
if i wanted to change the filter is there a lot of fluid loss when changing the filter??
#244
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
yes there is a filter and that sure looks like the 04-06 transmission to me.. so not sure what your talking about.. there should also be an inline filter probably leading from from the heater unit.. magnafine would be a best bet.
#245
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
Related Thread:
#246
Racer
iTrader: (5)
I've ordered from acuraoemparts several times and it's usually taken 7-9 days. Every time it's taken them a couple days just to process the order but they've been pretty decent. They might just be out of stock and need the sensors to be sent in before shipping out.. These sensors are in hundreds of thousands of Honda & Acura vehicles so if you want them soon I'd check around with other part suppliers.. Most places the sensors go for ~$30 each. I called locally and my Acura dealership quoted me $60 each.. lol.. quite a racket.
I order Saturday night as it was shipped today, so only two business days for processing -- not too bad. Now I just need to find someone (hopefully other than dealer) to this job for me
#247
I did changed mine last week and the shudder is still there but the shifting is a little better than before. The car has 41k, am i still under powertrain warranty? or it does expire once you pass the 40k and my car is an 05. I do want to take it to the dealer and have them change the tranny because it's getting annoying.
#248
Racer
iTrader: (5)
I did changed mine last week and the shudder is still there but the shifting is a little better than before. The car has 41k, am i still under powertrain warranty? or it does expire once you pass the 40k and my car is an 05. I do want to take it to the dealer and have them change the tranny because it's getting annoying.
someone correct me if im wrong
#249
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
#251
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Why can't people do this job themselves?? I changed the switches in just a few minutes without much more than a 10mm socket and ratchet and a crescent wrench. I can't say I've noticed any difference in the shifting. I also changed the trans filter. So to all of those who don't believe this trans has a filter, just go out and remove your air filter box and it is right there on the top of the trans. Three little bolts holding the cover on and a banjo fitting attaching the fluid line in the middle. Really simple job. Both of them, swiches and filter.
#252
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Some of you might want to also look into doing this also.
Link
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-performance-parts-modifications-112/transmission-solenoids-adjustment-728370/
It did more for my car then the the two Sensors did.
Link
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-performance-parts-modifications-112/transmission-solenoids-adjustment-728370/
It did more for my car then the the two Sensors did.
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JCash23 (06-25-2022)
#253
Team Owner
Thread Starter
Some of you might want to also look into doing this also.
Link
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=728370
It did more for my car then the the two Sensors did.
Link
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=728370
It did more for my car then the the two Sensors did.
One is a fix for a problem.
One is tweaking shift timing/firmness
I need to read up on exactly what the adjustments do. Depending on what they control you can end up with binding or flares. If it's just line pressure to third and fourth than that's awesome and will probably be a very popular mod with the turbo guys. This is one of those areas you have to be very careful with, especially not knowing why they do what they do.
#254
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
Two separate issues.
One is a fix for a problem.
One is tweaking shift timing/firmness
I need to read up on exactly what the adjustments do. Depending on what they control you can end up with binding or flares. If it's just line pressure to third and fourth than that's awesome and will probably be a very popular mod with the turbo guys. This is one of those areas you have to be very careful with, especially not knowing why they do what they do.
One is a fix for a problem.
One is tweaking shift timing/firmness
I need to read up on exactly what the adjustments do. Depending on what they control you can end up with binding or flares. If it's just line pressure to third and fourth than that's awesome and will probably be a very popular mod with the turbo guys. This is one of those areas you have to be very careful with, especially not knowing why they do what they do.
#255
Drifting
personally, touching the solenoids without knowing what the long term effects is more risky than swapping the sensors.
the sensors are more passive within the system. the solenoids are more active. you screw up by changing the line pressure too much or too little, it wont be pretty.
the sensors are more passive within the system. the solenoids are more active. you screw up by changing the line pressure too much or too little, it wont be pretty.
#256
Team Owner
Thread Starter
I'm wondering what the adjustment on the solenoids would do.... I'm assuming the only electrical adjustment would be resistance??? Or if they're mechanical it would be plunger/valve depth or spring preload.....
So the signal from the computer would be the same and get there at the same time as it normally would but what is it changing by turning the knob?
On topic, I've noticed a big difference in the mornings when it's dead cold. It used to shift so hard that I would manually lock it in third going through my neighborhood until it warmed up. Now it shifts just a little harder when cold but it's pretty normal.
I'm still loving this fix, the car just feels more solid. In the racing world they say "the best shift is the one you can't say anything about". I feel this is true with the TL now. It's not harsh, it's not soft, it just snaps into gear as it should.
Again, after talking about this with my builder, these sensors feed the computer data on when to apply and release the clutches and how quickly they need to be applied and released in miliseconds. That's basically a description of shift quality in a nutshell.
#257
Team Owner
Thread Starter
personally, touching the solenoids without knowing what the long term effects is more risky than swapping the sensors.
the sensors are more passive within the system. the solenoids are more active. you screw up by changing the line pressure too much or too little, it wont be pretty.
the sensors are more passive within the system. the solenoids are more active. you screw up by changing the line pressure too much or too little, it wont be pretty.
#258
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
You're an engineer, right? I can't remember if I assumed that from your posts or if you mentioned it somewhere.
I'm wondering what the adjustment on the solenoids would do.... I'm assuming the only electrical adjustment would be resistance??? Or if they're mechanical it would be plunger/valve depth or spring preload.....
So the signal from the computer would be the same and get there at the same time as it normally would but what is it changing by turning the knob?
On topic, I've noticed a big difference in the mornings when it's dead cold. It used to shift so hard that I would manually lock it in third going through my neighborhood until it warmed up. Now it shifts just a little harder when cold but it's pretty normal.
I'm still loving this fix, the car just feels more solid. In the racing world they say "the best shift is the one you can't say anything about". I feel this is true with the TL now. It's not harsh, it's not soft, it just snaps into gear as it should.
Again, after talking about this with my builder, these sensors feed the computer data on when to apply and release the clutches and how quickly they need to be applied and released in miliseconds. That's basically a description of shift quality in a nutshell.
I'm wondering what the adjustment on the solenoids would do.... I'm assuming the only electrical adjustment would be resistance??? Or if they're mechanical it would be plunger/valve depth or spring preload.....
So the signal from the computer would be the same and get there at the same time as it normally would but what is it changing by turning the knob?
On topic, I've noticed a big difference in the mornings when it's dead cold. It used to shift so hard that I would manually lock it in third going through my neighborhood until it warmed up. Now it shifts just a little harder when cold but it's pretty normal.
I'm still loving this fix, the car just feels more solid. In the racing world they say "the best shift is the one you can't say anything about". I feel this is true with the TL now. It's not harsh, it's not soft, it just snaps into gear as it should.
Again, after talking about this with my builder, these sensors feed the computer data on when to apply and release the clutches and how quickly they need to be applied and released in miliseconds. That's basically a description of shift quality in a nutshell.
I've seen this solenoid adjustment thread being linked in other performance threads.. for anyone considering this easy tweak I would beware.. the upside doesn't out weigh the unknown long /short term downside.
#259
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Also on a side Note Sonnax recommeds this Solenoid Adjustment. Take a look at link.
http://www.sonnax.com/tech-articles/TB-VOL1-NO8.pdf
I just took out the Adj Pentagonal screw on an extra Solenoid I had here and it's spring preload.
http://www.sonnax.com/tech-articles/TB-VOL1-NO8.pdf
I just took out the Adj Pentagonal screw on an extra Solenoid I had here and it's spring preload.
#260
Team Owner
Thread Starter
Also on a side Note Sonnax recommeds this Solenoid Adjustment. Take a look at link.
http://www.sonnax.com/tech-articles/TB-VOL1-NO8.pdf
I just took out the Adj Pentagonal screw on an extra Solenoid I had here and it's spring preload.
http://www.sonnax.com/tech-articles/TB-VOL1-NO8.pdf
I just took out the Adj Pentagonal screw on an extra Solenoid I had here and it's spring preload.
From the literature it looks like these are to compensate for wear in the valvebody/trans and factory soft shifts. Not a bad idea in theory.
I would be very careful. I may go and tweak mine 1/4 turn and see what happens but I don't suggest it to anyone who can't recognize the signs of binding and bad shift timing.
#261
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I agree with you it’s not something one would do without knowing what they are doing and without knowing when it needs to be put back to stock settings. I marked mine and know how to put it back to the OEM setting if it needs to go back I indexed mine and only did a ¼ turn.
#262
FTW
Time to place an order! I've noticed slipping at 40.5k miles. Typically in the mornings like most have mentioned. Should be interesting... I've noticed this issue for some time, probably 2months or so.. kind of a holding the RPM's and random surging..
I'll keep you guys posted, this install won't occur till I get back from my vaca to Myrtle Beach from the 6/19-6/29.
Still waiting on transmission flush @ 50k.
Side note - I'm still under warranty, should I go to the dealership to try to figure this out? or.... tell them to replace that part? Thoughts?
I'll keep you guys posted, this install won't occur till I get back from my vaca to Myrtle Beach from the 6/19-6/29.
Still waiting on transmission flush @ 50k.
Side note - I'm still under warranty, should I go to the dealership to try to figure this out? or.... tell them to replace that part? Thoughts?
#263
Team Owner
Thread Starter
Time to place an order! I've noticed slipping at 40.5k miles. Typically in the mornings like most have mentioned. Should be interesting... I've noticed this issue for some time, probably 2months or so.. kind of a holding the RPM's and random surging..
I'll keep you guys posted, this install won't occur till I get back from my vaca to Myrtle Beach from the 6/19-6/29.
Still waiting on transmission flush @ 50k.
Side note - I'm still under warranty, should I go to the dealership to try to figure this out? or.... tell them to replace that part? Thoughts?
I'll keep you guys posted, this install won't occur till I get back from my vaca to Myrtle Beach from the 6/19-6/29.
Still waiting on transmission flush @ 50k.
Side note - I'm still under warranty, should I go to the dealership to try to figure this out? or.... tell them to replace that part? Thoughts?
This will make a difference in your shift quality and slipping/shuddering. It might not be a bad idea to print this thread out and take it to the dealer. If replacing the sensors under warranty can save them from replacing the entire trans under warranty they just might do it. If not, it's still well worth it to replace the sensors out of pocket.
#264
Being an Acha Bacha in
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I'm gonna do this when I do my tranny flush soon. Can someone take the initiative to edit the first post in this thread with the part numbers needed for this simple fix that I Hate Cars has been nice enough to post. I think this thread is great and should be very easy for people who are just joining the thread.
I'm at 39k and boy do I notice the surging and horrible shudders at times. Hope this is the cure.
I'm at 39k and boy do I notice the surging and horrible shudders at times. Hope this is the cure.
#265
Drifting
I'm gonna do this when I do my tranny flush soon. Can someone take the initiative to edit the first post in this thread with the part numbers needed for this simple fix that I Hate Cars has been nice enough to post. I think this thread is great and should be very easy for people who are just joining the thread.
I'm at 39k and boy do I notice the surging and horrible shudders at times. Hope this is the cure.
I'm at 39k and boy do I notice the surging and horrible shudders at times. Hope this is the cure.
#266
Racer
I got mine today, will install tomorrow. The parts guy asked what they were for. He said the service guys are always installing them but he never knew why. I forgot the washers so I stopped by a different Acura dealer and picked them up. While there I saw this.
Not my style
Not my style
#267
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
I got mine today, will install tomorrow. The parts guy asked what they were for. He said the service guys are always installing them but he never knew why. I forgot the washers so I stopped by a different Acura dealer and picked them up. While there I saw this.
Not my style
Not my style
lol.. man that grill is reminiscent of a patch job with a CTS.. you should post that pic in the WTF Car of the Day Thread..
#269
Team Owner
Thread Starter
I'm gonna do this when I do my tranny flush soon. Can someone take the initiative to edit the first post in this thread with the part numbers needed for this simple fix that I Hate Cars has been nice enough to post. I think this thread is great and should be very easy for people who are just joining the thread.
I'm at 39k and boy do I notice the surging and horrible shudders at times. Hope this is the cure.
I'm at 39k and boy do I notice the surging and horrible shudders at times. Hope this is the cure.
#270
Racer
Well I just got finished with the job. It might just be my mind but the shifts seem a lot smoother. I am glad I did this. Very easy.
I made this a lot harder than it really was. So here are some tips to help. It is easier if you take off the wheel. Remove the one black clip that is attaching the smaller wheel guard up front (You can see it in the first picture up towards the left corner). Then there are two 10mm screws holding a black cover on over the switch (there is a wire that runs through the cover). Remove the two screws and you can move the cover enough to make it work. Now loosen the switch with a 22mm wrench. Notice it doesn't take much for it to come loose. It's only tightened to 14 ft-lbs or 168 in-lbs. when this comes out you will begin to loose transmission fluid so have the other one ready to put right back on. You won't loose much. I wasn't fast and the bottom picture shows how much fluid I lost. when you tighten these up do not over-tighten. now move to the next one which is above and towards the front of the car. Put everything back together. Double check. Triple check. And you are done. That was easy. Oh, and use a pan to catch the fluid.
I made this a lot harder than it really was. So here are some tips to help. It is easier if you take off the wheel. Remove the one black clip that is attaching the smaller wheel guard up front (You can see it in the first picture up towards the left corner). Then there are two 10mm screws holding a black cover on over the switch (there is a wire that runs through the cover). Remove the two screws and you can move the cover enough to make it work. Now loosen the switch with a 22mm wrench. Notice it doesn't take much for it to come loose. It's only tightened to 14 ft-lbs or 168 in-lbs. when this comes out you will begin to loose transmission fluid so have the other one ready to put right back on. You won't loose much. I wasn't fast and the bottom picture shows how much fluid I lost. when you tighten these up do not over-tighten. now move to the next one which is above and towards the front of the car. Put everything back together. Double check. Triple check. And you are done. That was easy. Oh, and use a pan to catch the fluid.
#271
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
^nice.. btw your compliance bushing looks toast..
good looking ATF btw..
good looking ATF btw..
#273
Drifting
#274
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
^ yeah.. I wouldn't worry about it so much.. but just keep you eyes on them for severe tears around and pay attention to steering feel on the highway.. vibrations and pull..
#10
Here's a related Azine thread:
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=707888
#10
Here's a related Azine thread:
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=707888
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JCash23 (06-25-2022)
#278
Team Owner
Thread Starter
Just an update after a couple weeks. Shifts are still great. One area it's really improved on is the downshifts using the manual mode. I rarely use it except when coming down the grapevine to maintain speed without hitting the brakes. Usually when it downshifts it's a hard jerk and really throws you forward. I usually try and rev match to minimize this. Now it downshifts very nice, it's hardly felt anymore. Also, gradelogic and automatic downshifting when exiting the freeway is seamless. I can see the tach move but barely feel the downshifts.
Interestingly, I was forced to run 89 octane in it the other day. Actually, not forced but I was offered a free tank but the card would only allow up to 89. There was a big reduction in power which resulted in the trans shifting hard. I guess it expects a certain power level at a certain throttle opening which results in hard shifts when the power level is lower than it should be. 5 minutes after filling up with 91 the power and smooth shifting was back.
Going to do my last drain and refill of Amsoil ATD for the next 100,000 miles pending the UOA results of this batch.
Interestingly, I was forced to run 89 octane in it the other day. Actually, not forced but I was offered a free tank but the card would only allow up to 89. There was a big reduction in power which resulted in the trans shifting hard. I guess it expects a certain power level at a certain throttle opening which results in hard shifts when the power level is lower than it should be. 5 minutes after filling up with 91 the power and smooth shifting was back.
Going to do my last drain and refill of Amsoil ATD for the next 100,000 miles pending the UOA results of this batch.
#280
Drifting
Just an update after a couple weeks. Shifts are still great. One area it's really improved on is the downshifts using the manual mode. I rarely use it except when coming down the grapevine to maintain speed without hitting the brakes. Usually when it downshifts it's a hard jerk and really throws you forward. I usually try and rev match to minimize this. Now it downshifts very nice, it's hardly felt anymore. Also, gradelogic and automatic downshifting when exiting the freeway is seamless. I can see the tach move but barely feel the downshifts.
Interestingly, I was forced to run 89 octane in it the other day. Actually, not forced but I was offered a free tank but the card would only allow up to 89. There was a big reduction in power which resulted in the trans shifting hard. I guess it expects a certain power level at a certain throttle opening which results in hard shifts when the power level is lower than it should be. 5 minutes after filling up with 91 the power and smooth shifting was back.
Going to do my last drain and refill of Amsoil ATD for the next 100,000 miles pending the UOA results of this batch.
Interestingly, I was forced to run 89 octane in it the other day. Actually, not forced but I was offered a free tank but the card would only allow up to 89. There was a big reduction in power which resulted in the trans shifting hard. I guess it expects a certain power level at a certain throttle opening which results in hard shifts when the power level is lower than it should be. 5 minutes after filling up with 91 the power and smooth shifting was back.
Going to do my last drain and refill of Amsoil ATD for the next 100,000 miles pending the UOA results of this batch.
so far, Ive been just over 1K miles since the replacement and the car just feels "new". I can't explain it, but the car just drives smoother. i definitely can feel it was better than before. I agree on the tach movement - you see it move, but you dont feel the shifts as much. quite an improvement if I may add.