Mkarl

Just in case I misunderstood part of the question:

There are slight differences in the OE filter location and the type of trans heat exchanger, however even the models (Accord and others) with an OE filter mounted in a housing that includes a heat exchanger (top of trans) is still at the cooler circuit outlet, but obviously on the outlet of the heat exchanger in this case. So removing it and mounting one externally is exactly the same. The Magnefine has a larger filter area than the OE in mine.

TheDr9669

What are your thoughts on this:

During the winter I do not idle my cars warm. I start, wait 10-15 seconds, and then drive off. While in my neighborhood I keep the car in 2nd, aka 2nd gear starts. I make my way to the main road at no more then ~2500RPM. I started doing this to warm the car and transmission faster. I have always kept my cars under ~3000RPM until fully warmed up. I do a drain and fill of the transmission at every oil change with a 50/50 of Redline D4 and Type F, which is usually a 10-12000 mile interval.

Would this be a sound practice, or could I be causing problems later?

I hate cars

I think that's a great practice. Like you said, you're warming the transmission up quicker which can help warm the engine up quicker through the transmission heat exchanger while also keeping rpms low. By driving it easy you're warming the engine up quicker with no downside.

I can't think of a better way to warm the engine and transmission up.

Timthetoolman

Your interest is much appreciated and will benefit so many of us who really like this TL!

I have at thermocouple on the outlet line on my MDX (pretty extreme conditions related to towing in the Rockies) and plan to add the same to the TL. I am using with 10' long thermo couple wires. I am interested in more data and a better understanding on how to maximize life on these transmissions.

pohljm

Welcome Mkarl to the ongoing auto transmission discussion! I assume the TL is sold in Australia? had no idea. Wherebouts are you?

LP700-4

Anyone have any knowledge on this event that happened with my 07 type-s? 5AT btw

Was on a hill facing downwards, friend told me to give it a rev so i rolled downhill slowly in neutral. Yes i know stupid me never again. Once done i was still rolling when i put the gear from N to D, my windows were down i heard this horrible grind like noise. Ever since then i think my tranny has been going downhill. Rougher upshifts are the most noticeable. Loud clicking noise when i change from R to D vise versa. I do stop fully now btw.

Will a drain and refill + pressure switches help this out? I bought the car used at 28k miles so never know if its been done or not.

Mkarl

Hi, unfortunately no, we miss out on most of the nice variants. My interest is the 5AT. This series TL AT is basically the same as the 5AT in my V6 Luxury Accord (Thailand built). We can't even get a manual version over here, it's AT or nothing. Joined years ago to follow the racing fluid discussions and other inspired threads. Located in Sunny Queensland, but do long trips through some of the hottest parts of Australia, always appears to be a heat wave whenever I drive one

musiclevelz5

I understand this thread is for 3rd gen TL's, but I would like to post my experience since the trans is similar.

I recently bought a 02 TL 228k with a bad trans. Rebuilt the unit myself since I have done a few of these already. The 3rd clutch pack was burned up entirely, but 1-2-4-5 were all in great shape. Both external and internal filters were impossible to blow air through. Completely blocked! Everything else in the trans looked great.

After rebuilding I noticed the shifting was very nice, but still exaggerated and took more time than should. Especially 2nd to 3rd shift was lagging even with new packs! Also the Park to Drive engagement took awhile maybe 1-2 seconds. (I believe this is somewhat normal though I don't like it)

With about 700 miles on the rebuild I just got to replacing the 3rd/4th pressure switches since I had originally left them untouched.

I noticed an immediate improvement in shift crispness and quickness. 2nd to 3rd shift was still slightly noticeable, but drastically improved. As with Park to Drive the delay is still there, but it is quicker to engage. I do have a bad passenger mount, the one that bolts to the engine, that may be a possible reason the 2-3 shift may still be felt.

I am very glad I replaced these switches, as I believe they will give me a rebuild that will last a lot longer than if I had used the original switches in them. Also I used the 04+ switches as they were the same except for the stepped design and were more cost effective at the dealer.

1KLRTOY

You might find this article interesting reading, AT3rdClutch

pohljm

^^ Thats a great link

Golden Eagle

Hi folks,
I've got an '02 MDX with >150k, and am trying to invest my ounce of prevention to avoid having to suffer a pound of cure - or worse.

I read Mkarl's excellent post, and had the means to test my new switches.

P/N 28610-RAY-013
3rd gear switch (spec = 33 psi) ON = ~37 psi, then switches back off at ~23-25 psi.

P/N 28600-RKE-004
4th gear switch(spec = 27 psi) ON = ~30 psi, then switches back off at ~20 psi.

We just used the regulator knob on a small air compressor to raise and drop the line pressure with the switch screwed into a coupler to get a _rough_ reading.
Both switches had around 0.3 ohm resistance when on - so they're basic on/off switches.
I saw a spec for 12-25 ohm - I don't know where that came from or if it was a measurement someone made.

It took me a while to understand the "On"/"OFF" pressures and the graph - but now it makes more sense. What interested me is how the actuation pressures moved "inward" from the extremes - indicating that the metal disc gets fatigued and is easier to move in either direction after it gets old.

Hopefully I'll be able to report back on how the old switches measure up, and what, if any difference they make.
Very nice guy at transmission shop recommended Amalie and Wolf's Head or Valvoline Maxlife as "good quality oils" for this trans. I'm curious if anyone has used these successfully. Very interested in the Amsoil and Redline, but I'm poor and want to start changing out the fluid on this trans of unknown history slowly and carefully.

Thanks to I Hate Cars, Majofo, Inaccurate, and Mkarl for many years of hard work and research and testing. I'm learning a lot of good information based on facts, not blind fear. Keep up the good work!

Golden Eagle

Roughly measured pressure from dial gauge

scottn3

I would like to completely replace all of the ATF with new fluid. My plan is to disconnect the ATF hose(s), extend them, and have it suck new fluid in (from a jug full of Redline ATF) while pumping the old fluid out into a waste bucket.

I know everyone recommends the 3x3, but this seems much more efficient. Is there any reason not to do it this way?

hleapha

I have done it like this with a Camaro. It was much quicker and less wasteful. I didn't have it sucking straight from the bottle but that sounds like a good way to do it. If you decide to do it with this method, a few pics or a video would be a great addition.

csmeance

The big issue with this is forcing the fluid into the trans as it might not suck up the proper amount of volume. Acura dealers use a pressurized machine that pushes in the new fluid with the same force as the old fluid going into the machine.

IMO, the 3x3 is way easier and it gives you a chance to clean the crud on the bottom of the pan via draining and clean the magnet on the drain bolt.

For those with the delay, I did a 3x3 on the MDX today and used a whole 32oz bottle of lube gaurd with the first 1x3. That way it's super concentrated and then will dilute once I do the other fluid changes. Way smoother shifting transmission and it helped the delay from P to R or D by cutting it from around 2 seconds to 1, 50% improvement! Maybe it's in my head but I feel it's noticeable change in a good way.

1scTL

Thank you for the information through this thread!!

Just purchased a TL with roughly 60K, felt some roughness through the 5base AT transmission. But i've heard stories from other TL owners/buddies that this was a general issue that takes some patients and a little tech saviious to do.

Plus also engine mounts..

1scTL

Thank you for the information through this thread!!

Just purchased a TL with roughly 60K, felt some roughness through the 5base AT transmission. But i've heard stories from other TL owners/buddies that this was a general issue that takes some patients and a little tech savy skills to do.

Plus also engine mounts..

cam_2

See this thread:
https://acurazine.com/forums/problem...method-906605/

hpcacura

Hey guys, sorry to revive this old thread, but I just bought an 06 TL with 82k miles and auto trans, and I want to change out these switches and the transmission filter. The PO said he had the trans fluid changed at the local dealer in the last 10k miles, but when I called the local dealer and asked if they changed the trans filter they said "all acura's have lifetime oil filters, there is nothing to change without removing and dismantling the transmission" - needless to say, I'm not interested in dealing with these guys!

I can't seem to find the part numbers. When i input the following from a 2009 post in this forum string, Amazon says it doesn't fit the acura.
28600-RAY-003 SWITCH ASSY., AT OIL PRESSURE x1
28610-RAY-003 SWITCH ASSY., AT OIL PRESSURE x1
90471-PW7-A00 GASKET (10MM) x2

I called my local Acura dealer and they knew what parts I wanted, but wanted $60 per switch and $25 for the filter, but they wouldn't give me the part numbers. I tried calling AcuraOEMparts and they were no help.

If anyone can confirm the part numbers they ordered for the switches and filter, I'd appreciate it. I'll also be doing a 3x3 trans fluid change just for peace of mind. What trans fluid is recommended?

Thanks!

Scottwax

Just FYI to anyone who gets their transmission rebuilt in the future. Make sure your builder uses the TransLab shift kit, makes a noticeable improvement in shifting across the board but especially the 2-3 upshift.

hpcacura

UPDATE re: part numbers:
I contacted Acurapartsdiscount.com and they provided the following part numbers:
28600-rke-004, 28610-rke-004, new sealing washers 90471-pw7-a00 x2 and atf filter #25450-ray-003. I ordered them today and total came out to about $120.00 with shipping.

Marek Baton

Please help me, I live in Poland and only you are able to help, please see the movie. The problem is with the change of gear. the car enters at high speed and does not change to a higher gear.

www.youtube.com/watch?v=wCdMUrxxqPs[/url]

thoiboi

Your transmission is gone sir, You're going to need a new one.

Marek Baton

Will not there be any replacement of pressure sensors? The cost of bringing such a box to Poland is very high.

Scottwax

The pressure switches won't fix internal issues (like worn clutch packs) in the transmission.

MxDEEZ

Got a 06 Base Model TL that i just bought So it sometimes goes into drive but wont shift past 2nd gear when it does throws itself into Nuetral somehow... changed all fluids and filters still doing the same just ordered 3rd&4th Gear Sensors as well as the Shift Solenoid A since it came uo as Stuck Open.....

DodgerTL

I Replaced the pressure switches as preventive maintenance on my 08 TL and the transmission actually shifts harder going into third and fourth now, kind of jerky / not as smooth. I feel like I should have left the originals in there.

Majofo

Make sure you replaced the correct and properly spec'd part.. for an 08, there are 3 pressure switches.

Acura TL Builder

A quick search will yield the thread that specifies the reference numbers. IIRC they are MDX switches??

PaulK3

Just bought an 04 TL, & also recently joined here. After reading many pages re: 3G transmission problems, wondering if anyone has ever used a product called "Lubegard" ? It advertises that it cools the ATF by up to 40 degrees F, as well as providing smoother shifting etc.

TheSauceBoss

You will get mixed opinions on this, but I would never add an over-the-counter friction modifier to an automatic transmission. In my opinion, it's going to be much safer to simply drain and refill your trans with OEM Honda/Acura DW-1 fluid, and changing your 3rd and 4th gear pressure switches, along with the trans filter and solenoid.

If you maintain your fluid, it will keep your trans sufficiently cool. Transmissions that fail tend to have old, burnt fluid that has lost all of its cooling abilities, and have been neglected past the point of no return.

elusiv

When I got stutter on my 3rd gear shifts on my 05 TL at 40 something thousand miles, the only thing that cured it after replacing the switches was 3 drain and fills (drive for a few miles after each drain and fill) of Type F. Once I did that my stutter went away, and the shifting was a bit harsher but no more stutter. Nothing else helped. Just an FYI for my use case. May take more (or unfixable because too much damage already) or may take less for you. Good luck!

horseshoez

iTrader: (2)

Lubgard = l'huile de serpent = snake oil

Scottwax

LubeGard is the only legit ATF additive. They have additives to modify generic ATFs to OEM spec so transmission shops don't have to carry a massive variety of OEM ATFs. Of course OEM spec is preferred but my rebuilder used a Castrol ATF with the LubeGard additive in my transmission, left it in for 30k miles, switched to DW1, can't tell a difference in shift feel at all. Plus they have a really good converter shudder additive. It's obviously not going to fix a worn out transmission but to improve shifting and reduce converter shudder, their stuff actually works.

horseshoez

iTrader: (2)

Sorry, not buying, You either have an OEM fluid (or certified fluid) or you don't. Ain't nothing Lubegard can do to change a non-spec fluid to a spec fluid.

Scottwax

Well, believe what you want but they are very well respected by the transmission industry. The base for all ATFs is very similar. Where they are different is in the friction modifiers more than anything else so you can change that.

horseshoez

iTrader: (2)

It has nothing to do with believing what I want to believe; ask a transmission designer for any of the auto manufacturers about LubeGuard and they'll laugh in your face. The reason they are popular in the transmission industry is to help rebuilders and other shops keep their inventory of various ATFs low; they are famous for saying stuff like, we can make any ATF out of Dexron, and buyers believe that line of B.S., errr, until their new transmission fails.

PgLgGrg

1-2 shift is Ok, 2-3 is jerky at low speed, 3-4 slightly better, 4-5 is fine.

5-4 is fine, 4-3 little jerky, 3-2 jerkiest (2-1 not possible on manual mode, fine in auto). Culprit seems to be the 3rd pressure switch for me. Should I also try to change the 2nd switch?

Where to source these? Located in Ontario Canada. Amazon has some by Centaurus, not sure if they are fine to use.

TheSauceBoss

If you have a 2004-06, you'll need parts number 12 and 13 on this list. https://www.oemacuraparts.com/v-2006...or-solenoid-06 ( 28600-RKE-004 , and 28610-RKE-004 ). If you have an 07-08 the part numbers will be different. I believe you need a 22mm socket, but IIRC my socket didn't fit in the available space, so I just used an adjustable wrench and it worked fine.

Do not get them from amazon, these are def something you should buy OEM/from a reputable dealer or source.

Only buy and change these switches AFTER you have completed a 3x3 drain and refill of ATF to ensure the issue isn't the fluid itself.

Lastly, if you have an 04-06 and your issues persist, a last resort can be changing out the internal trans filter. Good luck!

PgLgGrg

If my shifts from 2-3 are way worse than 3-4, is it ok to skip the 4th switch and only change the 3rd? $70 for the other switch is quite pricey to me, and don’t mind doing the swap again if needed.