Soonermagic

Does anyone have a part number for the filter? My Honda tech can't find a filter (08 AT) other than an internal (non-serviceable) filter.

Thanks.

Majofo

08 Transmission filters are not replaceable without dropping the trans.

hleapha

Parts for ATF Filter Change AND 3rd/4th Pressure Switches

This is what I just ordered and I think/hope its right:
25450-RAY-003 ELEMENT (ATF)
25803-RAY-000 SPRING, PASSAGE (ATF)
28600-RAY-003 SWITCH ASSY., AT OIL PRESSURE (TEXAS INSTRUMENTS)
28610-RAY-003 SWITCH ASSY., AT OIL PRESSURE (TEXAS INSTRUMENTS)
90471-PW7-A00 GASKET (10MM) X2
91301-RAY-004 O-RING (48.5X2.95) (ARAI)
91302-RAY-003 FILTER, GASKET
WASHER, DRAIN PLUG (12MM) X2

Subtotal:$90.91
Shipping Charge [Shipping Charge may vary with package size / weight]: $5.00Handling Charge:$3.95Sales Tax:$0.00
Total Order : $99.86

Inaccurate

C-036: DIY Transmission Filter Replacment With Pics (click here)
C-036: Transmission filter change how to with pics (click here)

hleapha

Thanks, I read over the DIY breifly the other day, it seems like a pretty simple job compared to what I was reading from posts. I was thinking I'd have to remove something serious, but sounds like its just the air box and such.

I finially got my girlfriends Camaro running so I can give my car a rest, it's slipping very noticably, although she barely notices it. I CRINGE when I feel it! So I will do the sensors first and see if that corrects the problem without doing the fluid. Once I determine that, I will do my 3x3 which I will do regardless. I just want to see the effects of the new sensors.

I'm still on the fence about to the 2:1 ratio or just the 3x3 will all regular Racing. If I get a case of all regular racing, I can do a 3x3 and another 1x3 10k miles later, giving me a higher percentage of Redline. OR I could get 9qts mix-match of lightweight and racing and get a more accurate ratio.... Man, I hate how I over think things!!! Someone make a decision for me!!

nutnut

Hi, I got an 98 Accord V6, and I'm going to do a tranny tuneup. Is there anything else besides the pressure switches that is worth replacing when I'm at it and doesn't require dismantling the tranny?
And does anyone know a source of the Red Line Lightweight/Racing ATF fluids in Europe? My spare parts dealer unfortunately cannot ship oils/fluids internationally and sites that sell it usually don't ship internationally at all.

markus90

Are the 2007 sensors listed at the beginning the same for the 2008 Tl-s?

The car shudders exactly the way it is described.

VQPower37

are these the same part numbers for the type s?

spineman

I'm still on the fence about to the 2:1 ratio or just the 3x3 will all regular Racing. If I get a case of all regular racing, I can do a 3x3 and another 1x3 10k miles later, giving me a higher percentage of Redline. OR I could get 9qts mix-match of lightweight and racing and get a more accurate ratio.... Man, I hate how I over think things!!! Someone make a decision for me!![/QUOTE]

Just use all racing!!! Make it easy on yourself

hleapha

Just use all racing!!! Make it easy on yourself[/quote]


Right on man, thats what I did and it is great so far!

kgovett

I changed the 3rd and 4th switchs and the trans filter on my wifes Tl and it did make a differance.

Thanks, Kevin

nate_0022

iTrader: (2)

This is a little off topic but, does anyone know if the 6th gen Accord has sensors that can be changed on it as well? My friend just bought one and 1st and 2nd shift like total crap. He just had a transmission fluid change, it helped a little bit but not much. I know these 6th gen Accords are nitorious for their transmissions.

I hate cars

The Redline "racing" fluid will help out a lot on the 1-2 shift, more than the sensors.

nutnut

yep just did it see thread Transmission problems on vee six pee (can't link it for some reason, is the site banned on here?)

nate_0022

iTrader: (2)

Can I do straight racing fluid, or do 2 quarts racing 1 quart lighweight? He has 130K miles on the tranny, it's okay to completely come off of the Z1 straight to the racing fluid?

I hate cars

Either way is fine. You can do a mix if you want but you don't have to. If you're in a cooler area it's not a bad idea.

You can mix Z1 and Redline, it won't hurt anything.

usaf2008

I have to pay close attention to my transmission. I think it usually jerks a bit between 3rd and 4th gear but I don't think it's happened after my 3 x 3 drain and refill

lusid

I just performed a 1x3 today, took me a solid 2.5hrs as this was the single biggest DIY project I've worked on and my shifts are buttery smooth now. I think I'll attempt another 1x3 after winter and also replace the Pressure switches at the same time.

Overall conclusion = Amazing results.

CubanLynx84

iTrader: (2)

I just did a 3x3 change with Redline racing atf and the car feels smoother from the small amount of driving I did. I also installed a Magnefine magnetic inline filter.

Turbocoop

iTrader: (3)

Alright, Ive been reading as much as I can find about our trannys, but I cant figure out what my problem is, or if I even have a major problem: My car shifts like complete ass when its cold, after it warms up for about 10 or 15 min it shifts great, but after it gets kinda hot (couple hours driving) it acts weird on downshifts.... I dont stomp on it very often, but when I do it seems to shift beautifully every time.

Background: The tranny overheated once on the highway in 5th gear right after I bought the car, I towed it home and did a 3x3 and changed the 3rd and 4th sensors and the small oem filter, and I added an external air/air cooler. The old fluid was super black and thin, probably really old. I put some cheap NAPA/Shell ATF in it cause I didnt know if it was gonna be ok or not... so it does have cheap ass non syn fluid in it now

What I was planning on doing is buying a gallon of redline racing fluid and a gal of redline d4 and mixing until I get something I like. Does that sound like a good idea? The tranny hasnt given me any overheating problems since I did the work to it, it just doesnt feel right.

dwb993

iTrader: (13)

Get some decent fluid in it now. I was pleasantly surprised at the difference it made for me (D4).

I hate cars

I would do the first 3x3 of just the racing fluid and go from there. It will be less than 50% mixture so there will be nothing drastic.

CubanLynx84

iTrader: (2)

Do it with just the racing fluid. I just drove mine and lemme tell you I don't feel the car shift practically. It's so smooth the shifts that it had me wondering if it was shifting.

Turbocoop

iTrader: (3)

I did another 1x3 today while I had it in the shop, the last one I did (full 3x3)was about 3500 miles ago and there was already a good amount of crap stuck to the magnet on the drain plug. Thats not normal is it? I mean there was enough to completely cover the magnet and then some, I cleaned it before I put it in last time... The fluid didnt look bad though, still pretty clean and red and it didnt smell burnt at all.

Last time I never disconnected the batt for 20 min to let it re-learn. I did it this time and it seems to be doing a bit better. I cant feel it shift at all until the 3-4 shift and up, but it does feel kinda strange downshifting at slow speeds still sometimes.

Im gonna buy the redline type f and do a 1x3 and see how it feels after that. Thanks for the help guys Ill let you know how it turns out. I have an 8.5hr drive this week so Im gonna find out if she is ok or not then I guess

Turbocoop

iTrader: (3)

So you think I should start out with a full 3x3 with the racing fluid only? That will only give me a 50/50 mix of racing and regular ATF?

CubanLynx84

iTrader: (2)

Yes do it with the race fluid.

Turbocoop

iTrader: (3)

Alright Ill give it a try, I just ordered a magnefine filter for it as well

CubanLynx84

iTrader: (2)

Follow this thread for the filter install....https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2004-2008-93/116-diy-transmission-cooler-5at-magnefine-filter-lots-pics-754752/

Inaccurate

Yes, this is normal for Z1 fluid. The Z1 fluid will put metal needles and black grime on the magnetic drain plug. This is visual evidence of the Z1's failure to do it's job. The metal needles are the gear's wearing and the black grime is worn away clutch material.

Use Redline RACING fluid, and you will no longer have anything on the drain plug.

Jin_Chris

Inaccurate (and/or) IHC

Thank you for all of your informative articles and suggestions.
I have replaced 3rd/4th pressure sensor last year for my acura, which is 04 MDX. So far so good and anyway, it didn't have any issue before replacing sensors....

Now, I have read many of your links and articles following through this discussions. Please let me confirm if I can summarize your suggestion as follow

1. Pressure switch replacement is good to make sure the critical pressure point is within the spec. (not to be out of range due to aging sensors etc).
2. But, more important for transmission performance/longevity is to use "better/well-engineered" fluid.
3. If I understand correctly, using "Non FM or well-balanced FM amount" fluid is critical.
4. Too much FM is only providing comfort at the expense of premature clutch wear etc.
5. Non-FM fluid is called "Type-F", example of such Type-F fluid is Mobile1 Type-F fluid if Redline product is not "readily" available in local shop.

Do I follow ok?

Then, I have one follow-up question.
If FM is such bad idea, using Type-F fluid (or well-controlled FM amount in fluid) for "any modern auto tranny" production is good idea in general??? Not just Honda/Acura, we all know there are infamous audi tranny, dodge/chrysler etc...?

Sorry about newbie question, I am in a big learning curve....

I hate cars

You are correct.

Many transmissions will have issues with Type-F. Ironically Fords seem to have the most issue. It usually shows up as torque convertor clutch shudder when the torque convertor locks.

It won't hurt anything to run the fluid but when in the testing stages you would want to try it in small amounts and work your way up. If there's no shudder, it's probably ok to run.

markus90

Just did all three switches including 3x3 with redline d4.

PROBLEM FIXED shifts great!!!!

markus90

Pic of the fourth clutch switch

nutnut

Is there any other Type-F racing ATF that you would recommend? The Red Line is not easily attainable for me.

I hate cars

Any type F will work. It doesn't have to be synthetic. Mobil One makes one, Royal Purple makes one and there are tons of dino type F fluids pretty cheap.

antlive

the pics are type s correct?

Inaccurate

Amsoil Super shift Racing ATF is a very good choice too for a Type-F fluid (click here)

markus90

You bet.

markus90

Yes they are!

Turbocoop

iTrader: (3)

Redline Racing ATF is $40 (+ about $12 shipping) for a gallon here: http://www.sparktecmotorsports.com/rl-30305.html