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Very interesting conversation with my transmission builder on the TL

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Old 09-13-2010, 11:03 PM
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Thank you!

Originally Posted by I hate cars
Now that we have enough test miles, I would skip the D4 and use only type F. D4 is a good fluid but the non FM formula of the type F is better in every way. More holding power, quicker shifts, and better than stock shift quality. I would use type F no matter what brand you go with.



Here you go: http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/art.aspx
Old 09-15-2010, 07:07 PM
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Originally Posted by elusiv
Crap. Update: After a few days of driving around with the new sensors, it seemed like it wasnt doing it, driving home last night I felt the shuddering, I took it for a drive today to confirm... yup, still shuddering. Looks like mine is beyond simple switch replacement. The clutch packs are probably too worn now.
I had shudder to 3rd and to 4th, and now the shudder on the shift to 4th is back. 3rd seems to be okay right now. I'm thinking of trying to reset the ECU and see if that does anything.
Old 09-15-2010, 08:38 PM
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Having just bout a 3G TL with 47,000 miles on it, this is great information. Subscribed.
Old 09-21-2010, 03:46 AM
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I just did a 3x3 after realizing my fluid looked discolored. About to replace the pressure switches. I had no shifting problems whatsoever before but now i notice a harder shift on 3rd/4th every so often. New fluid is the Z1 ATF, is there a problem with mixing in some Redline or Amsoil racing stuff discussed above?
Old 09-21-2010, 09:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Sanyin
I just did a 3x3 after realizing my fluid looked discolored. About to replace the pressure switches. I had no shifting problems whatsoever before but now i notice a harder shift on 3rd/4th every so often. New fluid is the Z1 ATF, is there a problem with mixing in some Redline or Amsoil racing stuff discussed above?
No problem at all. I would start with a 1x3 of Redline Racing.
Old 09-21-2010, 10:02 AM
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Just got my pressure switches swapped out too at 41,000 miles just to play it safe. Also the Dealer told me that they use a pump to get out every single drop of the ATF. Has Acura told anyone else this? 2 other dealers told me they do a simple drain and fill and couldn't get all the old fluid out.
Old 09-21-2010, 10:13 AM
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the pump is a no no....i would rather throw some metal shavings into my tranny !!!
Old 09-21-2010, 10:48 AM
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Originally Posted by swoosh
the pump is a no no....i would rather throw some metal shavings into my tranny !!!
How come? As long as the fluid is replaced everything would be fine right??

Last edited by LasVegasTL; 09-21-2010 at 10:53 AM.
Old 09-21-2010, 10:55 AM
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This past weekend I got the 3th 4th gear switches, trans filter, and a 1x3. Shifts much smoother now after the work. Replaced them at 58xxx, Ill replace them again at 105k. Thanks I hate cars.
Old 09-21-2010, 11:05 AM
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Originally Posted by LasVegasTL
How come? As long as the fluid is replaced everything would be fine right??
flushing / pumping the fluid out loosens up clutch material and debri potentially clogging up the valve body and filter.
Old 09-21-2010, 11:17 AM
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thanks majofo....i cudnt have explained it better
Old 09-21-2010, 11:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Majofo
flushing / pumping the fluid out loosens up clutch material and debri potentially clogging up the valve body and filter.
Interesting. Now I know. Thanks man.
Old 09-21-2010, 12:47 PM
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The cooler method is fine which is removing one of the lines and letting it drain into a 5 gallon bucket with the engine running while you're adding new fluid at the dipstick at the same rate the old is coming out.

You start the process with a drain and fill to get 100% new fluid in the pan area and then pull the cooler line and start the engine. This does 100% and takes less fluid and you don't have to drive it around and drain and fill multiple times. Problem is only the Type-S has a true external cooler to tap into unless you've done an aftermarket cooler on the base.

No true power flushes are allowed as it's already been explained.
Old 09-21-2010, 03:18 PM
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I been reading for the past 2 hours about switching from Z1 to synthetic i.e. Amsoil or Redline...I have one question, I noticed that most of the post and information was for those who have modified their cars.. i.e. turbo....What is the benefits for non-modified cars to switch over??
Old 09-21-2010, 03:22 PM
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Originally Posted by antlive
I been reading for the past 2 hours about switching from Z1 to synthetic i.e. Amsoil or Redline...I have one question, I noticed that most of the post and information was for those who have modified their cars.. i.e. turbo....What is the benefits for non-modified cars to switch over??
My engine is 100% stock other than the 3rd cat. Using the racing fluid will greatly extend the life on a stock car. Every TL even those driven by old ladies could benefit from this fluid.
Old 09-21-2010, 04:23 PM
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Originally Posted by I hate cars
No problem at all. I would start with a 1x3 of Redline Racing.
I really appreciate the reply.
A further question, read lots of your posts on 3rd gen and up, I have a 2nd gen 2000 TL is this still ok? And 1x3 just to make sure is one drain and refill of about 3 quarts?
Old 09-21-2010, 05:24 PM
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Are people having problems with the Redline Hi Temp or something? I've been using it for 5000 miles so far with no problems.
Old 09-21-2010, 05:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Sanyin
I really appreciate the reply.
A further question, read lots of your posts on 3rd gen and up, I have a 2nd gen 2000 TL is this still ok? And 1x3 just to make sure is one drain and refill of about 3 quarts?
It would be taking a chance. It won't hurt anything but since the 2G does not use the DBW there's the possiblity that the shifts could become harsh. The only way to know is to try it but definately do only a 1x3 and then get a few hours of drive time to decide if you want to do another drain and fill of the racing fluid or regular D4.
Old 09-21-2010, 05:32 PM
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Originally Posted by LasVegasTL
Are people having problems with the Redline Hi Temp or something? I've been using it for 5000 miles so far with no problems.
It's probably perfect for the Vegas summers. No one that I know of is using it since it's a little thicker than normal. The Racing fluid is just as thick but it has the benefit of no friction modifiers so for our cars it makes the high temp obsolete.
Old 09-21-2010, 05:49 PM
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Originally Posted by I hate cars
It's probably perfect for the Vegas summers. No one that I know of is using it since it's a little thicker than normal. The Racing fluid is just as thick but it has the benefit of no friction modifiers so for our cars it makes the high temp obsolete.
Now I'm really confused. I thought the friction modifiers were a good thing.
Old 09-21-2010, 06:49 PM
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Originally Posted by LasVegasTL
Now I'm really confused. I thought the friction modifiers were a good thing.
FM cause slippage. Slippage causes huge wear on transmission clutches. Clutch material is very thin. When worn away, it’s time for a new trans.

FM is only there for comfortable shifts. Heaven forbid if someone was to feel 0.000001 G force during a shift. Marketing. People want invisible shifts, Acura wants to sell cars.


Read below for more info -

Racing ATF (click here)
Old 09-21-2010, 07:11 PM
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Wow, this thread has progressed quite a bit. Sorry I don't have the time at the moment but from what I've read, the Type F fluid without friction modifiers is

Now after the sensors were changed and the change to Type F fluid, has anyone experienced the recurrence of shift problems? I need to do this to the 2G soon, as well as some other things. Car's gettin up there in miles.
Old 09-21-2010, 10:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Mourning Would
Wow, this thread has progressed quite a bit. Sorry I don't have the time at the moment but from what I've read, the Type F fluid without friction modifiers is

Now after the sensors were changed and the change to Type F fluid, has anyone experienced the recurrence of shift problems? I need to do this to the 2G soon, as well as some other things. Car's gettin up there in miles.
Careful with type F in the 2G. I know I said it above but just in case introduce it slowly. Do a 1x3 and drive it around for a couple days to make sure it's not going to be too harsh. It doesn't hurt the shift quality of the 3rd gen but it may be too harsh for your tastes in a non DBW 2G. It won't hurt a thing, it's still good for the car but you may not like the firm shifts.
Old 09-21-2010, 10:48 PM
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Originally Posted by inaccurate
fm cause slippage. Slippage causes huge wear on transmission clutches. Clutch material is very thin. When worn away, it’s time for a new trans.

Fm is only there for comfortable shifts. Heaven forbid if someone was to feel 0.000001 g force during a shift. Marketing. People want invisible shifts, acura wants to sell cars.


Read below for more info -

racing atf (click here)
x100
Old 09-22-2010, 11:40 AM
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So would anyone recommend Amsoil over Redline?

Last edited by LasVegasTL; 09-22-2010 at 11:43 AM.
Old 09-22-2010, 12:38 PM
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Originally Posted by LasVegasTL
So would anyone recommend Amsoil over Redline?
I ran Amsoil ATD for 70,000 miles. It's a great fluid. Judging by the way it shifts I would *guess* it has just a little less FM than Redline D4. The difference is the D4 is consistant from cold to hot and very hot. The Amsoil got sloppier the hotter it got. It would start out with good shifts but after some stop and go in 105 degree weather the shifts got softer.

I'm sure their racing fluid is fine, both fluids have no FM. I believe you get a better base oil with the Redline. For the Vegas climate I believe Redline will be better especially if you plan on extending the intervals.
Old 09-22-2010, 01:17 PM
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what would be the best fluid in the North East? i.e. NY, NJ, PA..etc?
Old 09-22-2010, 01:21 PM
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Redline Racing for a 2x3 and Redline lighweight (non FM) for a 1x3.
Old 09-22-2010, 02:25 PM
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Originally Posted by I hate cars
Redline Racing for a 2x3 and Redline lighweight (non FM) for a 1x3.
I agree. However, IHC and myself have slightly different preferences in the thickness . Both recommendations (IHC & myself) are ok. Just different preferences.

For normal year round usage with emphasis on reducing parasitic drag (for performance reasons), I recommend 2 quarts RedLine Racing ATF (PN# 30304) and 1 quart RedLine Lightweight Racing ATF (PN# 30314) per every refill.

For very cold climate usage with emphasis on reducing parasitic drag, I recommend 1 quarts RedLine Racing ATF (PN# 30304) and 2 quart RedLine Lightweight Racing ATF (PN# 30314) per every refill.

I have been using pure RedLine Lightweight Racing ATF (PN# 30314). I have 5 refills with the lightweight. That makes my entire ATF approx 93% Lightweight Racing ATF (PN# 30314). I run my car hard. Even thru the Texas summer, I saw zero metal flakes on the magnetic drain plug.

However if your primary concern is longevity of the transmission -
For hot climates, use 3 quarts RedLine Racing ATF (PN# 30304) per every refill
For cold climates, use 2 quarts RedLine Racing ATF (PN# 30304) and 1 quart RedLine Lightweight Racing ATF (PN# 30314) per every refill. This is the same recommendation from IHC.


Originally Posted by LasVegasTL
So would anyone recommend Amsoil over Redline?
I vote for RedLine. There is something about Amsoil that doesn’t sit well with me….. related to their customer service and secretive proprietary information. If you have a great product, you should be proud to discuss it like Redline is proud to discuss their product.

AMSOIL Synthetic Transmission Fluid VS Redline D4 ATF (click here)
Old 09-22-2010, 05:29 PM
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As long as the end result is not thinner than Z1 there's no problem with anything you use. There's a lot of leeway with viscosity considering it's 10xs as thick upon startup and during the warmup process. If I were in a colder climate, my choice would be a mix of lightweight and regular racing with probably 2 of the 3 changes with regular racing.

Where I live with it only getting to 32F in the winter and 110F in the summer I run straight racing.

My only point is don't stress about it because it's not going to make a difference. The only thing I would worry about is running straight lighweight.
Old 09-22-2010, 05:46 PM
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Originally Posted by I hate cars
My only point is don't stress about it because it's not going to make a difference. The only thing I would worry about is running straight lighweight.
I agree. Those darn Obsessive Compulsive (OCD) peolple..... glad I ain't one. ... I wish
Old 09-22-2010, 06:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Inaccurate
I agree. Those darn Obsessive Compulsive (OCD) peolple..... glad I ain't one. ... I wish
I hate those kinds of people lol. Don't think I haven't thought of doing a 1x3 of the lightweight when winter gets here... Trying to fight the urge.
Old 09-24-2010, 03:59 PM
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Originally Posted by I hate cars
It would be taking a chance. It won't hurt anything but since the 2G does not use the DBW there's the possiblity that the shifts could become harsh. The only way to know is to try it but definately do only a 1x3 and then get a few hours of drive time to decide if you want to do another drain and fill of the racing fluid or regular D4.
Why i am experiencing the delays between shifts now but not when i had the old almost burn fluid?

It feels like it lets off the accelerator a bit then kicks into gear, this happens kind of quick, every once in a while. Also not limited to 3rd/4th gear.
The only other change is a new ATF filter.

Thanks in advance.
Old 09-27-2010, 06:39 PM
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I just purchased some redline D4 and found a website with a slightly cheaper price. www.racerpartswholesale.com Redline D4 - $9.95/QT. If you live in the Indianapolis area you can also pick it up with a 5% discount included. Hopefully this AFT will solve some issues with my transmission
Old 09-27-2010, 08:45 PM
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Originally Posted by jwsilvey
I just purchased some redline D4 and found a website with a slightly cheaper price. www.racerpartswholesale.com Redline D4 - $9.95/QT. If you live in the Indianapolis area you can also pick it up with a 5% discount included. Hopefully this AFT will solve some issues with my transmission
You should do the racing fluid if you have a 3G.
Old 09-28-2010, 12:58 AM
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Ok so, any ideas if changing the 3rd/4th switches would give me softer shifts? I got no slipping just firm shifts. 2000 tl.

Also, is it safe to assume the firm shifts dont cause any damage?

Last edited by Sanyin; 09-28-2010 at 12:59 AM. Reason: Additional question.
Old 09-28-2010, 04:24 PM
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I was going to do the racing but i had already bought the D4. Im going to change out and then do the racing and lightweight mixture later. thanks for providing so much insight in to this stuff
Old 09-28-2010, 10:58 PM
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My 05 TL is around 93k miles and I've also been experiencing shuttering in shifts from 3rd to 4th. This only happens when I drive slowly around 2,000 RPMs. I flushed the tranny fluid -- still shutters. I recently came across this thread and just ordered the sensors. Thanks a lot for all your posts, IHC!

I'll post an update when I get these changed out.


-Steve
Old 09-29-2010, 11:15 AM
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I just bought my 2 sensors and the Redline Racing fluid. I plan on doing the switch as soon as I get the parts. However, I do live in Maryland where we get hot summers and cold winters. Do I have anything to worry about concerning running the Redline Racing with Maryland winters?

FYI, I plan on doing 1x3 introductions of the Redline over a period of time. I'll probably do a 1x3 every two oil changes or so until I introduce about 9 or 10 new quarts of Redline. Should I not run straight Redline fluid with Maryland winters? I'm anticipating my answer will be something along the line of a mix of z1 and redline will be fine with winters, straight Redline might be riskier. Is that correct?

I'm excited to replace my sensors. I haven't really experienced any problems with my transmission but I wanted to do some preventative maintenance.
Old 09-29-2010, 01:17 PM
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Originally Posted by jsonkimz
I just bought my 2 sensors and the Redline Racing fluid. I plan on doing the switch as soon as I get the parts. However, I do live in Maryland where we get hot summers and cold winters. Do I have anything to worry about concerning running the Redline Racing with Maryland winters?

FYI, I plan on doing 1x3 introductions of the Redline over a period of time. I'll probably do a 1x3 every two oil changes or so until I introduce about 9 or 10 new quarts of Redline. Should I not run straight Redline fluid with Maryland winters? I'm anticipating my answer will be something along the line of a mix of z1 and redline will be fine with winters, straight Redline might be riskier. Is that correct?

I'm excited to replace my sensors. I haven't really experienced any problems with my transmission but I wanted to do some preventative maintenance.
what a good looking question

i'm in maryland too, 07 type-s, and just bought the sensors, and 6 qts of redline racing n 3 qts of redline lightweight.

i was planning on doing the sensors n 3x3 tranny drain this weekend. now i'm hesitant if i should introduce the fluid over an extended period of time, or if i should just do it all at once like i orignally planned (and want to do).

hopefully one of the redline god's will chime in and let us know what the deal is.


Quick Reply: Very interesting conversation with my transmission builder on the TL



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