AT Transmission Performance/Reliability

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Old Feb 28, 2014 | 01:44 PM
  #41  
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From: Bakersfield
Originally Posted by jpm3071
I have a challenge for some of you, may be you've encountered this. The reason I started this thread was because over the last snow storm here in NY, I decided to go into parking lot and mess around. Ive done this plenty of times to keep some what fresh with my driving over the winter, its fun, and up until now, not stressful on the car. The motor didnt really go above 4000 RPM, VSA was off. I was just pulling the E brake and I did two reverse donuts.

The next day 2nd and 3rd gear were a mush and accelerating the car from a dead stop I could tell there was a lot of slipping. The revs would go up, the trans would catch and then it would slowly decrease and the car would accelerate, almost like I was driving stick shift.

Upon inspection from the transmission shop there were no codes and the transmission oil didnt seem burnt so it didn't over heat. Any idea what actually happened to the transmission?
What you were doing is one of the hardest things you can do to a transmission.

Think about it this way, low speed high load creates tons of heat. Shifting gears creates a lot of heat. If you were out there spinning donuts there was probably a lot of 1-2-3 3-2-1 shifting going on and the whole time the torque converter is slippnig more than normal for a longer time period than normal. So the bulk fluid temp heated up and most importantly, the fluid in the clutch packs probably fried.

I can literally burn the transmission in my GN up in minutes. I've burned second gear to the point I had to shift 1-3 just to drive it back to the transmission shop. I never made it home from the shop after the rebuild because I was screwing around. The key to burning mine up is lots of full throttle takeoffs, slowing down, and taking off again.

You more than likely got the fluid really hot, line pressure dropped, and that made the clutches slip. Now they're burned up permanently.

Honestly, the only thing you can do is put pure Type F in there and hope it lasts a little longer. I would use the cheapest Type F you can find because it's probably not going to be in there long.

In the future, you're best off shifting manually and leaving it in one gear. 1st gear will produce the least transmission heat.

I'm assuming the level was checked and with the engine off, right?
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Old Feb 28, 2014 | 03:58 PM
  #42  
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From: Mineola, NY
Originally Posted by swoosh


its a 4 door FWD butt heavy sedan...why would you do reverse donuts

the most I do in the snow if drift in/out of corners...i dont do burnouts or donuts or try to take off....
Wouldnt be the first time lol. Used to do them all the time in the snow with my nissan.
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Old Feb 28, 2014 | 04:04 PM
  #43  
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From: Mineola, NY
Originally Posted by I hate cars
What you were doing is one of the hardest things you can do to a transmission.

Think about it this way, low speed high load creates tons of heat. Shifting gears creates a lot of heat. If you were out there spinning donuts there was probably a lot of 1-2-3 3-2-1 shifting going on and the whole time the torque converter is slippnig more than normal for a longer time period than normal. So the bulk fluid temp heated up and most importantly, the fluid in the clutch packs probably fried.

I can literally burn the transmission in my GN up in minutes. I've burned second gear to the point I had to shift 1-3 just to drive it back to the transmission shop. I never made it home from the shop after the rebuild because I was screwing around. The key to burning mine up is lots of full throttle takeoffs, slowing down, and taking off again.

You more than likely got the fluid really hot, line pressure dropped, and that made the clutches slip. Now they're burned up permanently.

Honestly, the only thing you can do is put pure Type F in there and hope it lasts a little longer. I would use the cheapest Type F you can find because it's probably not going to be in there long.

In the future, you're best off shifting manually and leaving it in one gear. 1st gear will produce the least transmission heat.

I'm assuming the level was checked and with the engine off, right?
I left it in tip tronic but then again that doesnt stop it from shifting.

The only thing is the transmissions fluid didn't over heat according to the shop. He pulled the dip stick and it didnt smell burnt at all he said. Thats why Im puzzled as to what happened.


It actually threw a code today so the transmission is being redone on tuesday. Im curious to see what the code reads but never the less redline type F and D4 is going in that bad boy after its done
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Old Mar 1, 2014 | 12:04 AM
  #44  
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From: Arlington, TX
Originally Posted by I hate cars
It's not a bad idea still. When you shift in manual mode, things can change. I don't know about the TL specifically but when you go over to manual mode or on an older non computerized transmission you go down to 1,2, or 3rd gears manually, line pressure is raised for firmer shifts and more holding power because it assumes you're going to be using it harder.
I've noticed firmer full throttle shifts in manual mode (plus I can then shift at nearly redline instead of automatic shifts 400-500 rpms before redline) but manually shifting at part throttle really doesn't seem to change it much.

Wish we had throttle cables, I could adjust the one from the throttle to the transmission tighter and get firmer shifts on my old 4th gen Accord. Not possible now with DBW.
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