Well guys, I'm kinda new to owning automatics and I would like to know some of the intricacies of the Lock-up Torque converter. I understand that the Honda/Acura 5AT transmissions are designed to lock the torque converter, thereby providing a true direct drive like an MT clutch to the transmission. As I've been told, this only occurs in 2nd thru 5th gear. My question is, how long should this lock-up take?

This is what I've noticed while driving my wifes 04 Pilot 5AT on long trips from Reno to Vegas...... Occasionally it will take what I consider (being a manual trans driver) an EXTREMELY long time for the torque converter to re-lock. That is after it has un-locked to give an rpm boost for a slight grade (not a downshift), I is see the rpms verrrrrry slowly start creeping back down to the "locked" rpm. This can take as much as 10 seconds (or so it feels in my mind). Is this normal behavior? Should I be worried about this? Is this bad behavior for a Torque converter?

Since buying the truck a year and a half ago (was 93k, now 107k miles), I've done the following trans related services:
- 3x3 w/ Z1
- Replaced Both pressure switches

All this talk about Redline is making want to start feeding it into the trans. I just don't think my wife would appreciate the harsh shifting of a racing mix.

 

Your wife may no appreciate the "harsh" shifting of a racing mix, but your tranny will thank you in the long run. It will last much longer.

 

The lock up varies greatly depending on the load that is present and throttle position. In our 4 cyl on a grade the trans won't lock up until the throttle comes back and lowers the voltage, so the little engine keep roaring along in drive, no lock up. The Acura on the other hand will stay in lock up and not need to come out for added power. Lock up will occur when APPS voltage in D 1.02V @ 41-48 mph, but if the voltage is 2.58 lock up won't engage until 91-101mph.
On Rt 78 in PA/Jersey the other day, the 4cyl would come out of lockup when ascending a long hill, but the Acura, on the same road will stay in lock up.

 

I understand all that, but I'm wondering how long is the lockup event supposed to take. Usually it just feels kinda like a quick down shift or up shift. But every once it a while it's a slow long process that makes me uncomfortable.

As for the whole Race-Mix thing, that has yet to be proven don't ya think?

 

It's rather anecdotal but makes sense in theory. Less friction modifiers will extend the life of the transmission by not breaking down the gears/other internal components as quick as a heavily friction modified transmission fluid.

 

So does the transmission fluid even effect the torque converter lock-up clutch? I thought the torque converter was filled with it's own extremely viscous fluid.

 

for my type s notice it mostly on hills down and up otherwise on normal roads don't notice it. i use Honda dw-1 and am very happy with it i recommended a 3x3 with new honda dw-1 i saw the difference right away. although i hear good things from redline.

 

Sorry, misunderstood the question. No separate fluid as the trans fluid flows through the converter, but the converter has a clutch that when solenoid engaged creates the 1:1 ratio and no slippage through the converter. I'm certainly one of the people that think the concoctions and mixes created here are ridiculous for a lack of a better term. It seems as though the words spoken here lead everybody to believe in that the high friction component of the factory fluid is detrimental to the trans operation, but our TL as well as any I have driven with a good functioning trans have had hard crisp shifts between gears with no slippage. In fact, the aftermarket mixtures reduce that sensation and have created slippage when shifting, so I wonder what affect it will have on the unit in the long run. Having said that, the shift into lock up is not a jolt as let’s say 2-3, but similar to a regular shift, in fact many people believe that the transmission is shifting into another gear, rather than the converter going into lock up. Also depending on the conditions, the lock up can, let's say roll in, not instantanious.

 

Okay I see. It's this "roll in" you describe that really freaked me out the first time I noticed it. Perhaps it just important to keep a close eye on the fluid condition.

 

Nay, just drive the car. All the cars exhibit that condition, at least the dozens I've owned. It's dependent upon the engine rpm and load when the lock up engages as the engine tends to lug and slid in at the lower rpm range.

Years ago, even had a car that the lock up solenoid went haywire, that was a treat as everytime the car came to a stop it was like stopping a manual transmission car without clutch disengagement. When it happened, the waufe called me, but naturally when I arrived the car started and ran fine until the nest stop. Opened the hood, disconnected the solenoid and drove home. Took it to the dealership the nest day as it was still under warranty.