After I got new subframe and got new tires, my steering kicks back really hard over bumps and irregularities

I have near zero centerline stability and car either wants to go right or left.
If I drive one wheel over light snow and the other side on road, car pulls to snow covered road side all the way down until I get out of it.

Is this because of V-shaped tire I got (ContiExtremecontact) or something wrong with steering component?

 

Did you have an alignment after your repair?

Actually, the kind of damage you had is what I fear most in winter driving, I was sorry to read about it.

 

maybe you have some serious toe-out?

 

I'm booking for an alighment again. Will see if that helps.

After replacing subframe, car at least drives straight under normal conditions(flat road)

 

Something is definately wrong with your car. I have the ContiExtremeContact tire on my car, and it tracks perfectly straight.

 

I bought my car 4 months ago. It rode perfectly until I bought my ASPEC wheels. They are the 18" ASPEC wheels with OEM Yokas. Pluses were the car felt more solid, firm, more responsive and the car cornered better with the grippier rubber. What sucks is they were noisier and I had a LOT of kick-back and tramlining with them. It is more pronounced over small bumps, road irregularities/uneveness/transverse slopes. I thought it was the car doing all this. Nope it was the tires because when I put my OEM 17" rims back on for winter the car rides like brand new again. I still love the wheels and don't mind the kickback too much unless it's gonna do something bad to the steering/suspension. I imagine kickback forces like that will wear out something under there prematurely over the long run. There is no problem with the balance because no vibration. There is no alignment issue because the car is fine on OEM rims and which wheels/tires you have isn't going to affect the alignment. So much for "OEM" approved stuff.

 

I'd have the dealer look at that, because that's not normal. I put rims on my car too, and it doesn't behave that way.

If dealer tries to give you crap about your A-Spec wheels and how you didn't buy them from Acura, open up your warranty booklet and point to the paragraph that says that Honda warranties all genuine Honda/Acura parts and accessories.

Also point out the sentence where it says it covers parts even if not installed at time of manufacture.

 

Holy crap. I almost crashed into barrier this afternoon.

I was driving fine then as soon as I hit some gravel on one side then both wheel paths, car was throwing me out of course. Because of uneven traction, car would suddenly dive to the Right or Left without warning.

I had to slow down from 35MPH to 20MPH and got into slow lane. When I got out of car, I looked at front wheels and they seems to have too much toe out. Maybe 3 degree difference between the two by guessing.

I never knew toe could be a killer in bad road condition. I got alignment booked 2PM tomorrow.

This is what it looks like on road today.

 

Found this article and it's exactly how mine drives now.

If the car is set up with toe-out, the car will always be trying to enter a turn, rather than maintaining a straight line of travel.

Nobody wants their street car to constantly wander over tar strips-the never-ending steering corrections required would drive anyone batty. But racers are willing to sacrifice a bit of stability on the straightaway for a sharper turn-in to the corners.

Don't ever use this setting on street where there are irregularities. It drives you nuts cuz steering constantly kicks back and wants to go either way.

 

Toe out makes your car "hunt" because there is no leading wheel . Usual toe in is 1/16 to 1/8" and this make one wheel the leading wheel and the other follows.