Doing some minor maintenance work this past weekend - cabin filter, engine air filter, wiper blades. I was going to do the spark plugs...but then I looked at the rear bay, and thought to myself - how in the world would you be able to get in there? The strut bar was in the way, so I was in the process of taking that off, but even then, the engine is at such an angle that getting to those rear 3 would be hard!!

I checked with my local shop and the said 82 dollars to change it out (I bought the plugs myself) so I said wth I'll have them do it w/the valve adjustment.

Anyone did theirs? What was the secret in getting to the back three plugs?

 

There's really no secret, as it's pretty straightforward. Just drop your socket/extension down in the hole, pop the ratchet onto the extension and remove. You're working partially on feel, but it's not really any harder than changing the cabin filter. If you're unsure of yourself though, I'd let someone else do it. You don't want to cross-thread a new plug into the head.

 

With a 3" and 6" extension, I did it myself.

Here's thread with your same question and some answers: https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2004-2008-93/diy-spark-plug-replacement-685692/

 

I did mine earlier this year and didn't think it was that hard to get to the back three, but that's just my opinion. If anything, it was hard to see anything back there, so I used a flashlight and my girlfriend's make-up mirror. To make more room, you can rock your car forward and backward while it's in park and then set the e-brake when your car is as far forward as possible. This should give you another inch or two of clearance for the rear bank.

 

Remove strut bar. Use 10" extension. Done!

Anything is easy compared to the spark plugs my co-workers spark plug change. Took me and him 3.5 hours. It has two plug per cylinder (16 plugs total) and literally no room to work with during the rear plugs. Had to use multiple smaller extensions, and literally lay on the engine block.

 

I did mine last year. I did not remove the strut bar. It's fairly straight forward. Much easier than on my I35.

 

I did mine last December 2011, it is not hard, remove the bar and as stated above use 3" or 6" extensions and they fit perfectly fine. it just a little reach but nothing that cant be done.

If you have concerns do the front three first and get the feel of taking it out and dropping new ones in. Auto parts store has the socket for few $$(3 or 4) get that for spark plugs. Be careful with coil packs and to tighten them back up after you done.

 

There is no secret how to get to those three plugs, you just need a long extension that all.

 

https://acurazine.com/forums/showpos...2&postcount=27

 

I didnt even remove the strut bar, but used two 3 in extensions, and a piece of hose that the end of the spark plug fit in "fairly" snug. Feed the new splug in with it stuck in the hose and start it off that way, very hard to get the strength needed to strip it this way, just starts turning the hose on the plug when/if she jams up.

 

torque it snug, but don't strip out the aluminum threads in the head. on the flip side, make sure it's tight enough. don't want to blow out spark plugs like some other Honda V6 engines. I have torque wrenches to remove any doubt

 

which way should it be more practical seafoam than new spark plugs or the other way around?

 

I have written my experiences in the 3G DIY session you might find useful. July do a search and let me know if you have any questions

 

Not using seafoam at all is the best way.

 

I had removed my strut bar to gain access to my rear bank O2 sensor recently, so while I was there, I checked the torque on my plugs- easy access and the rear bank plugs were nice and tight (I checked the fronts ~ 6 months ago with all I read here about loose spark plugs). I'm at 82K so I have some time before the plugs need changing, but at least I know the access will be relatively straightforward and I'm more than capable of doing the work (just be sure to use thread anti seize/ copper coat and dielectric grease in the spark plug boot).

The key to installing plugs is don't cross thread them, and when tightening them, don't use a large/ long ratchet or breaker bar as you'll apply too much leverage/ torque to the plug and tear into the aluminum (although it is pretty strong). Probably 1/4-1/2 turn after the plug is seated to decently snug is enough.

 

Torque spec:

13 ft-lbs for the plugs
21 ft-lbs for the strut bar bolts.

Removing the strut bar is easy and is well worth the small effort required, IMO.

 

Anyone remember the old Chevy Monza V8's? You had to jack up the front of the car, pull the wheels off. Then loosen the engine mounts, jack up the engine, and access the plugs from inside the wheel wells. I'm not looking forward to changing my TL's plugs but frankly it doesn't sound all that bad!

 

Plugs are not bad at all on the TL, just takes good hand tools.

One thing I remember when I did mine, was that NGK listed a slightly higher aluminum head torque value vs. Acura.

 

I got mine done, of course I didn't do them so had it done by my uncle who is a mechanic. I just supplied the necessary supplies for the job and pay the labor.

Car responds so much better and I have seen at least 2mpg increase.

 

Correct me if Im wrong, but I was under the impression it was 15 ft-lbs for the plugs.

 

my service manual says 13

 

Consider yourself corrected :

 

Didn't remove the strut bar
just loosen and move the part that's blocking the way to reach them

 

Your Uncle charged you to change your plugs?

 

What is the benefit from changing them if they're slightly old? I'm almost to 100k on mine-- and plan on doing 105k 10k after that.

 

I'm going to change mine this weekend. Definitely looks Gardner than it is.

 

It's really up to the individual. Personally our 2008 only has 66K but I'm going to change our plugs next month when the winter wheels get put on (and also swap in a set of new drilled/slotted rotors and ceramic pads). I'd rather do it early and gain the peace-of-mind of having new plugs for the next 4 years.