I try to find a post about spark plug !

I want to change mine and i want to know wich one I can buy !?

Good one, for my type-s !

did I need to 'gap' them ?

thank you !

Oh .. and the price !

 

ngk iridium

 

Did I need to gap them and what the good gap !?

 

stock plugs...ngk iridium. You do not gap them!

Why do you need plugs...what is your mileage?

 

ngk i-r.laser ..pregapped.

 

Yup....OEM is NGK 6994. Also called IZFR6K11. Best price around is AdvanceAutoParts.com if you use coupon code CCABIN. That coupon is good for $20 off of $50... or $40 off of $100. Makes the plugs ~$40.

 

^No shit?

I've looked it up before (and changed plugs a zillion times on other cars) but is it difficult on ours? I imagine the front 3 are very easy, does the rear require dismantling a lot of other stuff to get to them?

I mean the plugs are reaching 8 years old now. I've got 80k. Nothing really to complain about. But if I can buy the plugs for less then $50 and replace them in under an hour I would probably do it.

 

No dismantling. You just need to pop off the engine and bay covers. You do need unbolt the radiator overflow tank on the front though. The rear 3 are a PITA for sure. You have to approach each of the rear 3 plugs differently by squeezing your arms through the various small spaces under the tower bar. Also don't forget to put a little dielectric grease inside the spark plug socket-boot. This way you don't have to worry about the socket getting left behind in the spark plug hole. And it really helps if you have two short extensions for your 3/8" ratchet. It's much more difficult to use one long one because of limited space when pulling the plugs out.

 

 

13 lb/ft with a dab of anti-seize. This image is not a TL spark plug.

 

I call at my dealer, the oem spark plug are 25$ each ! damn it's high ! Before i was paying 10-25$ for a set !

My car had 88 000KM ! i want to change them because I do a good maintenance ( brake oil, clutch oil, tranny oil, motor oil, cabin filter, prestone .... )

 

Stock is always a safe bet. I always check the gap on pre-gapped plugs, I've had more than one that was not gapped properly. Not many people know the right way to gap iridiums though.

You can do as I did as well if you want to save money and don't mind changing the plugs more often. Iridium is used to get a super long service life. I don't like leaving the plugs in for 100,000 miles, especially the first time when there's no anti-sieze on the threads.

I run regular plugs for $1-$2 a plug. No performance difference whatsoever since iridium is there for long plug life, not performance. Change these every 40,000 miles or so and you're fine. In my case it would be a waste to run iridium. I like to see what's going on in the combustion chambers so swapping plugs every 40k is no big deal.

 

IHC....So far I've checked 20 NGK pre-gapped plugs rated as 11's (1.1mm). All were exactly the same, but slightly tighter than 1.1mm. I bought a 1.1mm precision drill bit and it wouldn't pass through any of them. The TL shop manual says spec is 1.0-1.1 mm. The gaps were all definitely bigger than 1.0mm as I have a 1.01mm gap tool that passes with room to spare.

In your opinion are these plugs good as is or should I eff with them? I e-mailed NGK with this question, but they never responded (go figure). :/

 

That's perfectly fine. I have only messed with one set of the pre gapped NGKs but it sounds like qc is very good. Most of the ones I had issues with were platinums. One thing I should mention is many of the ones that the gap was out of spec on were shipped without the protective cardboard around the tip. Any rough handling could close the gap down. I'm guessing that the ones with the protective cardboard won't have the problems I ran into.

 

For the time it takes to check them, I think it's worth it.

I could see someone taking a wire type feeler to check these and snapping the center electrode. I just used a flat style gauge to check mine.

 

Thanks IHC. Not having the protective sleeve would definitely cause problems. Especially on a soft platinum ground strap (NGK Laser Iridium have a platinum ground strap).

KN-TL: A wire gauge is more accurate because it can correctly feel at any angle (the ground isn't always perfectly "square"). As long as you're not prying open the gap with it, you won't damage anything.


So just to reiterate the facts here:
- Gap = 1.0mm to 1.1mm
- Anti-seize = yes (dab on one side)
- Torque = 13 lb/ft

 

to me you cant gap ngk i-r lasers because you will break the laser tip

 

I just did this yesterday. It really helps a lot if you move the strut tower bar. makes life a lot easier.

 

Don't buy 'em at the dealer.



GREAT!! Price.

Still active too!! $40.54 for a set of six after discount. $6.76 each.

 

Yep, highly recommend this. 3 nuts on each end and two other bolts. Retorque the end nuts to 21 ft/lbs.

Torque spec on the plugs is 13 ft/lbs.

Using two 3" socket extensions for the rear plugs makes it easier. Also, using 5/16' heater hose to thread the plugs will keep you from a cross-thread disaster:

 

sorry for hijack did not want to start another thread.

helping my brother with maintenance since he does none on his tl.

do you guys think its time for new ones



i don't think this airfilter has been changed in years

 

I also used my gf's handheld make-up mirror to help me get the rear 3 in properly.

 

CCABIN still working. Also found this useful post:



BIG30 Still works. I added wiper blades to my order and used it for $30 off. Net price on the plugs was $41.76 (plus tax, no shipping - store pick up).

 

Wow thanks for the tip.. I'm only at 63k but I may buy these now since I don't know if that coupon code will last when I'm at 105k!

 

I bought my plugs a while ago. They are sitting on a shelf.

 

I know this a bit late to chime in but I recently (last week) went to the dealer and they told me that stock oem plugs are all platinum. I told him that I have ngk iridium in there the car has 53.8K miles its an '04 so they're original plugs. Could the dealer/manufacturer have switched plugs for w.e reason sometime in the last 5yrs? I bought the original Honda plugs they ended up giving me $6/plug off still paid more than I would have liked but I tend to side with w.e the manufacturer goes with. Fluids, plugs, belts. Not gonna replace it at the dealer but will buy it there if the price is tolerable. Anyhow, does anyone know anything about the switch?

Thanks!!

 

Yeah for an '04, he's full of shiite. They're iridium. Owner's manual tells all....

 

OEM plugs on all 3gs are iridium but I'm throwing it out there again, you don't have to replace with iridium unless you plan to go more than 100,000 miles. I just did a plug change for $16 out the door and the previous regular plugs had over 50,000 on them and I feel bad for replacing them, they were so perfect. $100 is a lot to pay for plugs when iridium won't benefit most people.

 

Ya, Iridium are the way to go. Been doing a lot of reading up on this and even though you can use others, Iridium seem to be the longer lasting. With such a beotch of a set up (Rear plugs), why change them more than you have too.

 

Performed the spark plug change yesterday, and it was too bad. I went ahead and pulled the shock tower stabilizer bar (6 mounting bolts, and three supporting bolts for two accessories - don't what the items attached to the bar are called). Having the bar off made it pretty easy to get the plugs in and out. If you lay on the engine and shine a light back in there, it's a good DIY'er project. Took 1.5 hours with reassembly. Taking the plastic covers off may have been the most difficult part of the job.

Torqued plugs to 13 lb/ft or ~256 lb/inch.

My car has 98K miles on it, and the plugs that came out still could have gone longer. They didn't look too bad. These plugs are good stuff, so I stuck with the same brand. NGK all the way!!!! Got them for $8ea at Autozone.

Next is the timing belt, but I think I may let that go for a while longer. The Serpentine belt looked great, no cracks or wear at all; surprisingly. I'll check it again during the Summer time.

Great posts here sure made the job easier. Always great approaches to getting the work done!

 

The TL is extremely easy to change plugs on. I don't mind doing it every 3 years or more to get a look at what's going on inside the combustion chamber and to ensure you never have to worry about plugs blowing out or getting stuck and pulling the threads out of the heads. 30 minutes out of my life every 3 years is nothing and its still much cheaper than iridiums.