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Replacing Rotors and Brakes, Torn on which setup to Buy

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Old 10-28-2009, 09:07 AM
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Replacing Rotors and Brakes, Torn on which setup to Buy

I am torn between getting the RacingBrake Slotted with RB ET300 pads or the Rotora Slotted with the Rotora H2 pads. I will be doing both front and rear rotors and pads.

There is price difference of ten dollars between the two set ups. so the price aspect does not help.

I just really want a set of brakes that are quiet, low dust and I can beat on a little without warping them.

It is a daily driver that like to get a little aggressive every now and then.

Any insight or recommendations on which set up to go with and why would really help. If there is another setup that is better please let me know.


Before the guys weight in who think that the only way to go is with blanks, I really like the look and add benefits of the slotted rotors.
Old 11-08-2009, 11:04 PM
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i just upgraded my front rotors and pads with the rotora slotted and drilled rotors and h2 pads on my 07 tl-s , it's been 2 weeks, and very happy with them, brake dust definately alot less than stock, good stopping power ,quiet too, dont forget to do the bedding in process after you install them , it really helps. good luck.pal.
Old 11-08-2009, 11:39 PM
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I too have the Rotora's and they are great. Much less dust than stock
with good fade resistance and the looks of the rotors is a plus. The pads will squeek alittle if only used lightly, I have to be more agressive to keep them from squeeking.
Old 11-09-2009, 02:48 AM
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over 20k miles on my et300s on RB slotted fronts, 5mm pad remaining- 2mm is minimum thickness- rotors look excellent with no edge ridging and good heat cycle color.
et300 rears on kragen blanks, plenty thick and need a fun run to get rid of slight noise that recently appeared (wife drives car mostly so little aggressive braking done)

Stops on a dime and give 8 cents change when you ask them too!, good daily drivers.
check mrheeltoes signature for discount code- was acurazinerocks but may have changed

for lower brake dust- wash and wax the rims on both sides
Old 11-09-2009, 05:30 AM
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Take a look at www.brakeperformance.com. Rotors look good and brakes work great.
Old 11-09-2009, 01:51 PM
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How did you settle on the ET300s? I am going to give the Racing Brake pad's a try as I need some new ones but seeing as how the ET500s are only $15 more I was thinking about getting those.
Old 11-09-2009, 02:19 PM
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I have think i am going to go with the RacingBrake Slotted with RB ET300 pads. I think the ET500 will be a little to agressive for my me. My brakes are at 3/10 waiting for the last lit to go and then I will order.
Old 11-09-2009, 06:58 PM
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The ROTORA combo is a great package. The ROTORA H2 pads are low dust, low noise pads with good bite. The ROTORA rotors are premium rotors that are machined and coated. They are much less prone to warpage than the OE rotors and combined with the better pads brake performance is improved.
Old 11-10-2009, 01:38 AM
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Yikes, Thats alot of money on brakes!

My dad is an old style cuban dude and always yells at me for being expensive things for my car, always tells me "Go to discount auto parts and just buy the OEM stuff!"

lol..
Old 11-10-2009, 01:44 AM
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RacingBrake FTW.
Old 11-10-2009, 03:10 AM
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I can take the TL on 300s to Yosemite, where it goes from sea level to 5000 feet in short miles and sharp curves...lots of brake use~ life or Certain Death corners and cliffs.
Thats the only time I get serious dust issue and have to wash the wheels

500s would be fun for more bite on those rare days I get to go play-- but the wife wanted a daily driver that stops from 80 immedialty and the 300s do that fine
Old 11-10-2009, 03:13 AM
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the person wanting oe level braking has napa or zone part for that level- they stop the car within same amount that stock did

Some people like a car that stops 30 feet shorter,,,helps to avoid accidents and for the play driver, so they spend 300-500 and have a badazz slowing machine
Old 11-10-2009, 05:17 AM
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Originally Posted by 01tl4tl
the person wanting oe level braking has napa or zone part for that level- they stop the car within same amount that stock did

Some people like a car that stops 30 feet shorter,,,helps to avoid accidents and for the play driver, so they spend 300-500 and have a badazz slowing machine
not to be a jack... but, upgraded brakes only provide better repetitive braking abilities, most cars can do an emergency stop from 80 no problem, with abs engaging all the waythrough. So at that point what you need to stop shorter is higher performance tires, not brakes. Or perhaps you do have sticky tires, i don't know that.
Old 11-10-2009, 07:29 AM
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Thats what I am looking for, is better repetitive stopping where the rotors can handle the heat of this big heavy car and not warp the rotores. The tires will also being replaced in the very near future, before the first witer storm in the PA/northeast.
Old 11-10-2009, 09:59 AM
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Yes I do have sticky tires General UHP, and better brakes do make for shorter single stop distances
Shocks play a role too as the tire depends on them and weight transfer
Why do cars plow into each other on the freeway stackup? not enough brakes!!
Initial bite and abilty to transmute friction to heat and dissapate is how they work
More pistons increase brake pressure to the pads and rotors- that makes a car stop shorter too- look at stock 1 piston on the AT cars vs the Brembo equipped cars -who stops better?

I dont use ABS because I know how to drive~
It takes less distance to stop or slow heavily without it- ABS engineers call it Stomp and Steer- its not for braking in a straight line but for the emergency swerve by low skill drivers under hard braking and changing traction

For repetative needs you cant beat RB- check their site for tech info www.racingbrake.com Winners of many endrance races and that technoiogy is in the rotors we can buy- they also make basic stuff thats used on many OE applications on new cars--RB is their performance division

For referance I am a licensed competition driver and can test brakes fully~

Last edited by 01tl4tl; 11-10-2009 at 10:03 AM.
Old 11-10-2009, 10:54 AM
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Originally Posted by 01tl4tl
Yes I do have sticky tires General UHP, and better brakes do make for shorter single stop distances
Shocks play a role too as the tire depends on them and weight transfer
Why do cars plow into each other on the freeway stackup? not enough brakes!!
Initial bite and abilty to transmute friction to heat and dissapate is how they work
More pistons increase brake pressure to the pads and rotors- that makes a car stop shorter too- look at stock 1 piston on the AT cars vs the Brembo equipped cars -who stops better?

I dont use ABS because I know how to drive~
It takes less distance to stop or slow heavily without it- ABS engineers call it Stomp and Steer- its not for braking in a straight line but for the emergency swerve by low skill drivers under hard braking and changing traction

For repetative needs you cant beat RB- check their site for tech info www.racingbrake.com Winners of many endrance races and that technoiogy is in the rotors we can buy- they also make basic stuff thats used on many OE applications on new cars--RB is their performance division

For referance I am a licensed competition driver and can test brakes fully~
that's cool, what series do you race in, I used to do solo2 and solo1, never was brave enough to do touring like my cousin.

Firstly, let me start with this; my point about the abs being able to engage all the way through the stoping process means that at that time my brakes are still stronger than the tire grip. otherwise the abs wouldn't come on anymore. And though I didn't try this on my TL-S i did play with my auto CL-S on a track day at road atlanta, and even with its crummy brakes i could start decelerating heavily [just before abs kicking in] and then i'd jam the brakes and i'd get the abs, meaning i still managed to lock them for a brief seconds. Now granted that the factory brakes did give me some unhappy moments in turn one as the pedal would makeout with the carpet a few times and the car showed no signs of slowing down, so i just did 2 cooldown laps and came in.
I also fully agree that suspension plays a big roll in you slowing down, weight transfer and keeping good contact with the pavement, but i don't really see how 2 identical cars except the brakes would show significan braking improvement in a 1time stop if both were abs-ing [your average panic stop].
when you know you need better brakes is if you step on it as hard as you can and your abs isn't kicking in, that's my opinion [well partial opinion because you might be locking the rears although your fronts are fried]
Old 11-10-2009, 11:15 AM
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So for the person is tring to improve the OEM setup, with out having to buy a BB kit or upgrading the calipers (that would be overkill for me) would this setup help?
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