my rotors and brakes are shot and im planning to change them tonight and i have searched and its as simple as taking the calipers off and unscrewing the 2 flat screws on the rotors and then pulling it off right? if anyone can suggest anything or any technique to do this to save me some trouble and hassle i would appreciate this thanks alot..

 

These threads from the 3G Garage should help you.

D-041: FRONT AND REAR BRAKE PAD INSPECTION AND REPLACEMENT
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=118283

D-085: Brake disc (rotor), knuckle, hub, and front wheel bearing replacement
https://acurazine.com/forums/religion-politics-18/world-opinion-132940/

 

wow... you are like the 13th person in the past to say your brakes & rotors are wrecked... so are mine... how many miles do you have? i've only got 22k

 

*past 2 days

 

I got 28 to 29k miles and acura wants 970 bucks for 4 new brake pads. resurfacing the rear rotor and the 2 front rotors replaced so I said f it and going to autozone and doing it myself and I spent only 300 bucks max on parts...

 

Wise choice...

Just don't strip out the Philips head screws that hold the rotors on.. An impact driver is best used..

I wouldn't even get new rotors unless its a must - have them turned for ~ $12 a piece..

 

It's very advisable to take your new rotors to a shop and have them planed, or resurfaced. new rotors are not perfect and can damage the pads and rotors themselves. just my

 

No, premium replacement rotors will be perfect out of the box.

Resurfacing old rotors will cause them to warp faster as there will be less material on there. When resurfacing, it's best to use an on the car lathe to minimize rotor runout (0.003 or less) in order to prevent brake pulsation. In addition, some parts stores may do a poor job of resurfacing...poor finish, dull bits, etc...for me, it's worth the added expense to just purchase new rotors. Go with Brembo Blanks, ATE PremiumOne Slotted, Rotora, iRotor, etc.

For pads, use Akebono ProACT. AutoZone stuff is just mediocre...

 

Man 12 bones is cheap, my stealer tried to tell me it was 78 to turn them, luckily i get genuine parts at cost and told them to shove it. Even at cost though i think when they run out i will try aftermarket rotors.

 

Agreed. Can you imagine if the car manufacturer's had to turn every rotor that they received for their cars in production?????

 

If you cant get the screws out- drill them out
Not needed for anything but factory assembly method of car
Remember caliper grease and brake fluid flush

 

If the screws look like they might be a problem .. before you even try them put the screwdriver in the screw head and give it a good rap with a hammer. 99% of the time this will break the thread bond and make them easier to get out.

 

That'd be my worst nightmare...scary to even think about.

 

is it necessary to remove the spindle nut to remove the front rotors? any body??

 

No, just the phillips screws.

 

Many times turned rotors tend not to warp as quickly as when from the factory. Much of the "quick" warping on a new vehicle rotors is from the stresses in the original cast etc.. But true, if you/the tech has to perform over three runs on the lathe, your "warpage" may require removing more than desired (there is a safe limit and your tech should know that spec).

I have/had a local brake shop turn my TL rotors at ~25K (actually only $10/per there - Napa use to charge $12). Overall, pretty easy to tell an adequate job from a poor and/or dull diamond bit job etc.. Given my level of expertise, I didn't even replace the stock pads - no need to considering their current state (easily had 3/4s of the pad left).

Just a word of caution, if an "on-the-vehicle" rotor lathe is required to remove "all" of your brake shimmy, you should be taking your car to a mechanic to get the root issue fixed.
Sure they are handy and work quick, but all you are doing is covering up a bent axle, bad bearing race install and/or bent spindle, or worse. Something I may try on a beater, but not a fairly new vehicle still under warranty. Also, if you're worried about .003 inches of run-out , a vehicles spindle/axle bearings could have that and many times even worse. This typical bearing "play" is just transferred to your on-the-car rotor turn etc..

Cheers