Obolonsky

I've spoke with V LEDs,
They told me I need 2 bulbs-1cls
When I install it:
On practice you need
1 bulb-1cls
Total bulbs= 4
Total cls= 4 ( 2 pair )
Dmytry
Acura TL 2008 base

THTL

iTrader: (2)

I was reading post #27. He said 1 cls for both one side front and rear. So we just need 1 pair of the cls for the front and rear v3 bulbs?

dj5

I have a problem with my Triton bulbs. I got the front and rear bulbs along with the Equalizer resistors. I put one resistors on each of the rear bulbs when the car is in the on position (engine not running) the turns flash normally. When the engine is started, I get the rapid flash. I removed the fronts and put back in the OEM bulbs and it flashes normal again. I thought I only needed on of the resistors for each side. Anyone know what might be the problem? Do I need a resistior on each one of the front lights as well?

o4Komodo

iTrader: (2)

Probably a wiring issue with your resistors. Check again that they are well connected and that they are spliced into the proper wires.

Undying Dreams

iTrader: (3)

I believe you need a resistor on each bulb. Meaning 4 bulbs, 4 resistors. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

wrong....you need a resistor per side....so you need total of 2 resistors....one for the left and one for the right....

but why do through that mess when you can do this:
0.24OHM resistor for people who are running LED indicators all the way around:

https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...0#post14240010

JTS97Z28

iTrader: (4)

^^^because that method requires modifying a OEM part including soldering. Not only that but I have tried it on a previous TL and not only was a PITA to get that relay out, but it broke the tabs in the process. In addition it didn't work for me and caused random interior dash lights to flicker. That's the last time I screw with my cars electrical system! I would MUCH rather pay under 20 bucks and use the V3 resistors that are 100% plug and play. Mounting them in the back by the tail lights is quick and simple.

DJ5,
I replied to your pm if you didn't see that. Like I said I assume you received the 1 LED resistor by accident when you need the two LED resistor. One for each side.


o4komodo,
DJ5 has the new V3 triton resistors that are fully plug and plug and because of the connectors it's not really possible to mess them up. Like I said I think he may have received the ones made for only one LED not two.

o4Komodo

iTrader: (2)

The V3 Tritons have built in resistors? Neat... didn't know that!

In reference to installing a resistor for "one LED" that would probably be a resistor with low value. I know most people on the forum get one with high resistance.

JTS97Z28

iTrader: (4)

No they do not. Maybe you mis-understood or I worded it wrong, but what I was saying is the V3 series bulbs have their own plug and play resistors available that only work with the V3 LED's. They are plug and play just like the bulbs. So yes you do need resistors.

o4Komodo

iTrader: (2)

Ah right, yeah I re-read what you wrote and I just misunderstood.
Hmn.. makes me wonder if I should have ordered the PnP resistors.
Theoretically I should be fine with my current resistors.

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

I have done this on my car and 2 other cars without an issue

just remember that these "100% plug and play resistors" get plenty hot, so where you install it, make sure they have some room to "breathe"

AZP-TL

I did the resistor mod to the flasher and it works perfect with these, it wasn't hard to do, getting the flasher out was the biggest problem. If you're scared about soldering than have someone who knows what they're doing do it for you.

o4Komodo

iTrader: (2)

T-Clips (is that what it's called?), no need for soldering.

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

^^^I think he means adding a resistor to the relay

and I hate T-clips...might as well, strip the wire, wrap around, solder, heat shrink, insulate I wouldnt do anything any other way

AZP-TL

https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2004-2008-93/g-109-diy-eliminate-led-bulb-induced-hyper-flashing-without-load-resistors-815219/

LockDots

You're thinking of T-Taps and Scotch-Locks. Terrible terrible connection methods. They add resistance and make it easier to introduce corrosion to the connection, which also increases resistance. Stay away from them. (that goes out to everyone)

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

^^^

thats what I wanted to tell them...I hate T-clips...the only way to join/connect to wires is to strip, solder, insulate

350

iTrader: (4)

Had some time to install mine this morning, so far very satisfied. All I had to do was pop out 2 of the push pins on the fender line to reach up there and I zip tied the resistor boxes to the body. I played with them for a bit, they didn't get hot at all. I'm sure it's hot inside the box and if you sat at a light for minutes it would get hot but I wouldn't be too concerned about wher you mount them, the old gold style ones get hot to the touch instantly but even those didn't melt plastic when I used them in the past.

Aretardedorange

iTrader: (2)

wait till you go to a carwash both of mine stopped working and are ow flickering and doing odd things

Undying Dreams

iTrader: (3)

Did they happen to spray under the car?

MEKO

iTrader: (1)

Damn nightshades, can't notice my parking lights under sun

I think water won't do aynthing to these bulbs. They are like a freaking rock
Prob. have a problem inside

MEKO

iTrader: (1)

Park

Undying Dreams

iTrader: (3)

What do you mean damn nightshades?! They're bright!

MEKO

iTrader: (1)

Don't you see my signals are blacked out, JnC sprayed nightshades on them.
Guess would be brighter without them but I love the headlights like this

Undying Dreams

iTrader: (3)

They look bright enough to me...

MEKO

iTrader: (1)

Yeah but during day not that much bright from side view

350

iTrader: (4)

Do you have the resistor/control boxes and where did you put them? I can't see mine getting wet where they are.

Aretardedorange

iTrader: (2)

Not sure the wash was touchless but i have the same wash done many times a year and never had any problems.

I started playing around with the V3 triton on the driver side and moving around some stuff made and when removing and reinstalling the wiring it got brighter until it went out for good. I put in my stock bulb but realized the parking lights are not coming on when I lock/unlock the car. The right side V3 triton started working again.

Fast forward now.

The stock bulb was only flashing and not lighting up same situation with the other triton and now no turn signals work. A fuse blew I guess.

Anyone know the fuse? I am looking at manual and only see headlights and interior lights. I did replace it before but forget if it was under hood or inside!

350

iTrader: (4)

Some quick night videos, these MFer's are bright! I can see them reflect on the road and signs down the road which I couldn't with halogens.

Cross-Hair

Do the V3 taillights match the brightness of the stock tails by chance? I'd almost be worried that they might overpower them to where the corners are much brighter than the main tails.

Can anyone comment on this?

dannyz

Those are seriously bright! I think I'd pull over and start looking for my registration if I saw those were behind me!

AZP-TL

I haven't had any issues like that and I've washed my car a few times since installing them. Did you get the switchbacks? Some of the control boxes seem to have seal problems, that's probably your issue. I have one box that only initiates the turn every once in awhile, I still have to take a look at it. VLEDs should send you replacements.

They are extremely bright, very noticeable during the day and near blinding at night. I haven't compared them to the tails at full brightness but they may be brighter.

350

iTrader: (4)

Stock tails look dim in comparison.

Mug

Ordered! Amber appears to be on back order

JTS97Z28

iTrader: (4)

One of the first people on the forums to get the V3 LED's (non switchback) and still working flawlessly. I Love these things!!

DrOwNiNgPoOl84

iTrader: (2)

Just received mine yesterday. I went with 5k white fronts (I hate amber) & red for rear. Quick shipping, only took 3 days from when they shipped, installing tomorrow then I can give my bout bulbs more so

Mug

What connector did you get for the fronts? I've already ordered the 1157 based on the bulb guides, but the 3G garage says 7443.

350

iTrader: (4)

Only Type S uses 1157, 7443 is correct for base. Good luck getting them to change it or get in touch, I emailed them a few weeks ago and never got a reply. The product is top notch though.

DrOwNiNgPoOl84

iTrader: (2)

They have a phone number on there site, I made two orders originally, called and guy was willing to ship resistors from first order with later ordered red bulbs, could try that route. I went with 7440-7443 adapters owning a base model myself so.

Mug

Here is an old Pic I had when doing the ZKWr lenses. Looks like a 7443 to me.