Rear brake pad wear
#2
Senior Moderator
nope, my fronts were nearly down to the metal and the rears still had 70% left, ask the dealer to check for sticking brakes in the rear...
#3
Pro
Originally Posted by csmeance
nope, my fronts were nearly down to the metal and the rears still had 70% left, ask the dealer to check for sticking brakes in the rear...
You drive in reverse most of the time!
#4
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Originally Posted by TorontoTL
Did your rear brake pads wear out before your front? I wasn't expecting the rears to go before the front but they did.
#5
Good point-
thats why I pull my brakes apart and relube the sliders and contact points, and thats on the west coast!
If you go thru a car wash and the pressure spray hits the rims---- say goodbye to some important grease!
If you are taking care of your car- the brake fluid gets flushed each year, and spend an extra 30 minutes pulling the calipers off and clean the sliders and lube all the contact areas.
If you find bare metal- no paint-on the pad backs, there was movement but no grease there.
Normally fronts last 20-30-40k miles- lets use low numbers to be safe- some people get 50k miles on fronts~
and the rears last in the 70k range, or 2 sets of fronts and your ready for new front rotors and pads, and rear pads will be due- but the rear rotors are so cheap -may as well replace them and be set for another several years.
thats why I pull my brakes apart and relube the sliders and contact points, and thats on the west coast!
If you go thru a car wash and the pressure spray hits the rims---- say goodbye to some important grease!
If you are taking care of your car- the brake fluid gets flushed each year, and spend an extra 30 minutes pulling the calipers off and clean the sliders and lube all the contact areas.
If you find bare metal- no paint-on the pad backs, there was movement but no grease there.
Normally fronts last 20-30-40k miles- lets use low numbers to be safe- some people get 50k miles on fronts~
and the rears last in the 70k range, or 2 sets of fronts and your ready for new front rotors and pads, and rear pads will be due- but the rear rotors are so cheap -may as well replace them and be set for another several years.
#6
My rears brakes went before my fronts also, I have never had it happen on any other car before, but the local dealer said it was a common thing he had seen with the TLs. Yes, they were rusted and flaking when they were replaced most likely from what bhelsdon described above...Road Salt.
#7
Its the service writers job to reassure you that everything is perfectly normal-your car is not effed up----
this model, with this mileage, often needs......
that was my standard line for every repair!
this model, with this mileage, often needs......
that was my standard line for every repair!
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#8
My rear brakes appear to be the opposite. My 2005 TL has 32,000 miles on it and the rear brake wear has been minimal. When I look at the rear rotors I can still see some of the machining marks on the surface of the rotor when the car was new. I asked the dealer to check it out twice and he said it was normal as the fronts do most of the braking. I've had had many Hondas before but I've never seen rotors that show as little wear as the ones on the TL. Is this normal or do you thing the rear brakes are not working effectively? Also, the pads still look to have 1/4" or maore pad left.
#9
what machine marks on the rotor?
Its normal to go thru 2 sets of fronts, then you need rears
50,000 miles is perfectly normal. Our rotors are known to warp
Pad wear is more than depth- min thickness is usually 2MM
and there can be heat issue or glazing and cracking not seen until pads are removed and actually looked at- with good depth on them still
From outside,,, is just a guess
Fronts lasting anywhere from 15 to 40 is normal- all depends on how and where you drive
Commute traffic eats brake pads. Escaped mental patient style driving also wears them ~ just a bit~
Its normal to go thru 2 sets of fronts, then you need rears
50,000 miles is perfectly normal. Our rotors are known to warp
Pad wear is more than depth- min thickness is usually 2MM
and there can be heat issue or glazing and cracking not seen until pads are removed and actually looked at- with good depth on them still
From outside,,, is just a guess
Fronts lasting anywhere from 15 to 40 is normal- all depends on how and where you drive
Commute traffic eats brake pads. Escaped mental patient style driving also wears them ~ just a bit~
#11
Instructor
While it was normal for front brakes to wear much faster than the rears a few years ago, modern cars have EBD - electronic brake force distribution which adjust the brake pressure front to back depending on the way the car is loaded. Therefore, it's not unusual to have the rears wear more than the front.
#12
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I just had my front replaced last week and the mechanic told me that they were from the factory. I was sitting at 71,xxx when he did the repairs. fooled me they lasted that long he said the pad was about the width of a key. I also had to get the rotors turned.
** He said something about having to drill out 2 bolts that held the rotor onto the hub. He said these only have the bolts because of how there made on an assembly line and its for safety when the cars are over the heads of the workers. have any of you heard this?
** He said something about having to drill out 2 bolts that held the rotor onto the hub. He said these only have the bolts because of how there made on an assembly line and its for safety when the cars are over the heads of the workers. have any of you heard this?
#14
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I just had my front and rear brakes done last week with 56K miles on the original pads/rotors. The fronts had about 20% left and the rears had 40% left. I replaced them both with the A-spec red pads, had the rotors turned, and flushed the brake fluid. The new pads and the fresh fluid make a HUGE difference. It feels better than when it was new.
My 1st Gen TL had 60K before I had to replace the front pads, and 80K before I had to replace the rears. This was probably due to the fact that 75% of my driving was all highway so I barely had to touch the brakes at all.
My 1st Gen TL had 60K before I had to replace the front pads, and 80K before I had to replace the rears. This was probably due to the fact that 75% of my driving was all highway so I barely had to touch the brakes at all.
#15
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Is it one side or both? My passenger side rear started grinding at 35K. Pulled it off and the inside pad was toast. Further looking revealed that the caliper piston was siezed up due to a f'd up rubber boot seal. I did the pads, rotors and caliper.
#17
that would be a brake bias problem
#19
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I had to replace the rear pads and rotors at 22,000 miles. Perhaps the salt they put on the roads here in northern Ohio had something to do with the premature wear. The fronts are fine. The write up guy said that it was common for the rears to wear on the TL. At least that was his story and he was sticking to it.
#20
02 CL-S rear brakes at 55K front at 81K original brakes on the car
98 accord LX-V6 rear brakes at 90K fronts projected to last until about 120K again original brakes on the car.
go look in the TSX forum and you will see they have the same issue with rear brakes
On hondas it is normal for the rears to wear faster than the fronts due to how the brakes are setup when you have calipers on all 4 corners
98 accord LX-V6 rear brakes at 90K fronts projected to last until about 120K again original brakes on the car.
go look in the TSX forum and you will see they have the same issue with rear brakes
On hondas it is normal for the rears to wear faster than the fronts due to how the brakes are setup when you have calipers on all 4 corners
#22
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Just replaced my front brakes today Autozone C-Max Ceramic pads. A lot of people on here recommended them they feel pretty good. I need new front tires, so I can't really compare stopping distance with the new brakes vs the old.
Btw..... my rear brakes look like they're about 30% left. I'm no expert, but I have to ask my mechanic.
Btw..... my rear brakes look like they're about 30% left. I'm no expert, but I have to ask my mechanic.
#23
If the slot in the center of pad is gone- so are your pads
Minimum pad material thickness is 2mm
caution on buying rear pads- several makers use the wrong backing plate!
TL has 2 raised tabs, one at each end, wrong pads have a 3rd tab in center top of inner pad for rears
Totally messes up braking with wrong pads as they sit crooked and dont contact more than half the rotor in use- bogus~ check before install-
Minimum pad material thickness is 2mm
caution on buying rear pads- several makers use the wrong backing plate!
TL has 2 raised tabs, one at each end, wrong pads have a 3rd tab in center top of inner pad for rears
Totally messes up braking with wrong pads as they sit crooked and dont contact more than half the rotor in use- bogus~ check before install-
#24
Team Owner
Not normal for the rears to wear out first. I'm still on the original pads at 84,000 miles. The fronts look to be halfway worn and the rears almost look new. I've shot them with a temp gun to make sure they're working and the rears actually run about the same temp as the front during normal driving. I'm sure that would change to a major front bias during hard braking.
I'm also pretty sure the the EBD is only active in a panic stop in conjunction with ABS.
If the rears are wearing out first, there is a problem period.
My rotors are severely cracked to the point I'm trying to drive the car until I get the Wilwoods.
For all of the 5at owners that are replacing the rotors and pads, take a look at the Wilwood 12.6" 4 piston kit. They're not *that* much more than the stock brakes and you will never have to worry about the warp prone stock rotors again.
I'm also pretty sure the the EBD is only active in a panic stop in conjunction with ABS.
If the rears are wearing out first, there is a problem period.
My rotors are severely cracked to the point I'm trying to drive the car until I get the Wilwoods.
For all of the 5at owners that are replacing the rotors and pads, take a look at the Wilwood 12.6" 4 piston kit. They're not *that* much more than the stock brakes and you will never have to worry about the warp prone stock rotors again.
#25
Suzuka Master
IHC do you have a link to the setup?
#26
Team Owner
#27
Just replaced front and rear pads, they wore at almost identical rates. This is probably due to the fact that I have a staggered wheel setup, so the rear wheels are heavier, making the rear brakes work a little harder which made the wear even out..
#28
Team Owner
Actually the brake bias is mechanically set and non adjustable in stock form. In other words it doesn't matter if you have 1,000lbs in the trunk or 24" rims on the rear, the fronts should wear quicker than the rear. All 4 brakes would wear quicker but the front to rear ratio would stay the same. It might not be a bad idea to look over the rear calipers and make sure they're not stuck.
#29
Actually the brake bias is mechanically set and non adjustable in stock form. In other words it doesn't matter if you have 1,000lbs in the trunk or 24" rims on the rear, the fronts should wear quicker than the rear. All 4 brakes would wear quicker but the front to rear ratio would stay the same. It might not be a bad idea to look over the rear calipers and make sure they're not stuck.
On another point, I think that the traction control uses the brakes to keep the car stable, maybe hot driving on corners may cause the system to use the rear brakes to keep the car on the road? Just a thought.
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