OPTIMA Battery (need some quick advice)
03-24-2008, 10:31 PM
#1
Safety Car
Thread Starter
OPTIMA Battery (need some quick advice)
So, I was looking into getting an OPTIMA battery; cars having a hard time starting up. Question is do I need a redtop or yellowtop? Also, the guy mentioned that that a D34 would fit in as well? Website says D35...
Acura TL 2005 (navi)
I have 2 twelve inch P2's in the back, but my amp's really weak...
THANKS,
erc
Acura TL 2005 (navi)
I have 2 twelve inch P2's in the back, but my amp's really weak...
THANKS,
erc
03-24-2008, 10:32 PM
#2
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get the yellow top.
i've had it for 3 years in my car w a system. supposedly it charges when the car's off.. switched it out when my car had a hard time starting up also.
you won't regret it
i've had it for 3 years in my car w a system. supposedly it charges when the car's off.. switched it out when my car had a hard time starting up also.
you won't regret it
03-24-2008, 10:49 PM
#4
Originally Posted by as2222
get the yellow top.
i've had it for 3 years in my car w a system. supposedly it charges when the car's off.. switched it out when my car had a hard time starting up also.
you won't regret it
i've had it for 3 years in my car w a system. supposedly it charges when the car's off.. switched it out when my car had a hard time starting up also.
you won't regret it
How does a battery charge if there is not power being sent to it to replenish the spent power?
But the yellow top is what you want, if you got a good amount of power draw.
My battery crapped out on me saturday when I was washing it, got a replacement from Autozone Duralast Gold. 3 year full warranty, 7 year prorated. total after all fees n stuff was under a bill.
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03-25-2008, 01:01 AM
#7
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Thread Starter
But the yellow top is what you want, if you got a good amount of power draw.
Well, I'm not drawing THAT much power from the battery...again what about the red top? haha
thanks again,
erc
Well, I'm not drawing THAT much power from the battery...again what about the red top? haha
thanks again,
erc
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03-25-2008, 07:14 AM
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Ive always used yellow tops,because my main thing was car audio.My yellow tops have lasted long times.Usually a lot longer then i kept the vehicle.
Im not too sure what advantages there are from yellow to red.
Im not too sure what advantages there are from yellow to red.
03-25-2008, 12:53 PM
#12
erick, your running 2-12's with amps. You need a yellow top if you want to stick with optima.
Me personally, I dont think about paying an extra bill to get an optima. I would rather run with the duralast Gold which gives me piece of mind with 3 year full warranty, 7 or 8 year prorated warranty. Whats the worst that can happen? I have to buy a new battery at full cost, still cost me the same as one optima cost me.
and I am running a JL12W6V2 pushed by JL 500/1 amp....
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Me personally, I dont think about paying an extra bill to get an optima. I would rather run with the duralast Gold which gives me piece of mind with 3 year full warranty, 7 or 8 year prorated warranty. Whats the worst that can happen? I have to buy a new battery at full cost, still cost me the same as one optima cost me.
and I am running a JL12W6V2 pushed by JL 500/1 amp....
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03-25-2008, 05:09 PM
#13
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Originally Posted by Fulani has a TL
erick, your running 2-12's with amps. You need a yellow top if you want to stick with optima.
Me personally, I dont think about paying an extra bill to get an optima. I would rather run with the duralast Gold which gives me piece of mind with 3 year full warranty, 7 or 8 year prorated warranty. Whats the worst that can happen? I have to buy a new battery at full cost, still cost me the same as one optima cost me.
and I am running a JL12W6V2 pushed by JL 500/1 amp....
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Me personally, I dont think about paying an extra bill to get an optima. I would rather run with the duralast Gold which gives me piece of mind with 3 year full warranty, 7 or 8 year prorated warranty. Whats the worst that can happen? I have to buy a new battery at full cost, still cost me the same as one optima cost me.
and I am running a JL12W6V2 pushed by JL 500/1 amp....
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so nothing on the red top huh? this guy told me that the D34 would PROBABLY fit...website says otherwise...dimensions are different in addition to the crank voltages during 0 and 32 degrees out...our TL's need the D35 i believe...? am I wrong? or will the 34s fit...boxed?
03-25-2008, 10:21 PM
#14
Racer
I must second the duralast gold, in my 94' Ford Ranger, I changed my battery out with the largest duralast gold (CCA wise about 1000 @ 32F) also did the same thing when my wife owned a tercel, which was in an accident. At autozone they replaced it for free when the headlight bolt blasted through it and it wouldn't hold a charge, I didn't notice the hole until they pointed it out, I must of been blind. lol
But the duralast have been great to me and I run a system in both cars that have that battery. Cheaper than optima, and I don't think you'd see any difference with it compared to the optima. Unless you tend to run your battery dead all the time. Since the optima's are designed to be able to handle that while your regular lead acid batteries can't handle it if you do it too often.
But the duralast have been great to me and I run a system in both cars that have that battery. Cheaper than optima, and I don't think you'd see any difference with it compared to the optima. Unless you tend to run your battery dead all the time. Since the optima's are designed to be able to handle that while your regular lead acid batteries can't handle it if you do it too often.
03-26-2008, 08:45 PM
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The red optimas have higher cranking power in general but the yellow tops are made to be discharged over and over again. The yellow top is the way i go, its an increase over most other batteries in cranking power and i have the peace of mind of knowing that my battery can be drained over and over again and still be good as new.
03-26-2008, 10:11 PM
#17
Three Wheelin'
Most of you are failing to realize one importing thing about the yellow-top. While yes it is designed to be a "deep cycle" battery, our cars alternators is not designed to charge it.
Let me illustrate this a little better.
An alternator is designed with a maximum amp rating of lets say 110 amps. Your car is designed to draw 90amps at full tilt. This leaves us a 20amp reserve. This is also taking into consideration auto climate control (AC) defrosters - factory amp (30-40 Max draw) and all other accessories. On an average day the typical driver will keep their amperage draw around 60-80 amps. Think of your battery as a big electrolyte bank. It storing hundreds of amps, and also serving as a conditioner to your 12v electrical system. In the even your request more amperage then your alternator can provide your battery steps in. In normal everyday operations this is fine. However, when you add a 1kw system or more into this equation this is when things get dicey.
Your current draw of your amp is dependent on the music being played. The lower the frequency, the higher the current draw. So if you play your music loud, and love your bass you will use up that 20amp reserve from your alaternator, and will continually dip into your battery for those extra electrons. This is perfectly fine for a battery that is designed to take this -but most people forget about the key component to the cars 12v electrical system; the alternator. Every alternator has a regular that is either external or internal. This regulator has diodes that control the flow of electrons and the voltage in your cars electrical system. The stock alternator is not designed to run your car - and recharge a battery that is constantly being drained of electrons. This puts unnecessary heat and stress on the alternator, and if great enough, will eventually lead to premature failing of the unit.
In if you do use the Yellow-top for its deep cycle capabilities Optima has a [URL=http://www.optimabatteries.com/_media/documents/specs/D35_082104.pdfspecific charging regimen[/URL] that must be followed to ensure your battery stays at its peak performance for a long time. It is very important to charge your battery with a stand-alone charger. I have seen yellow-top last well over 6-7 years when following these instructions.
In the end if you do run an aftermarket amp/sub and run less then 1kw of power you should be fine with any battery - provided you do proper maintenance on the battery. (clean the terminals, upgrade the big 3, make sure the floating voltage is within range.) If you are running over 1.5kw and stuff a yellow-top in the car with the stock alternator you might seriously consider spending $3-400 on an HO alternator. Simply put, stock alternators are not designed for that type of abuse.
Personally, even though I know I don't hold onto my cars very long, I will still take care of my car and go the extra mile to ensure I'm not sacrificing any components for the future. This includes having the alternator upgraded, as well all factory grounds under the hood.
Let me illustrate this a little better.
An alternator is designed with a maximum amp rating of lets say 110 amps. Your car is designed to draw 90amps at full tilt. This leaves us a 20amp reserve. This is also taking into consideration auto climate control (AC) defrosters - factory amp (30-40 Max draw) and all other accessories. On an average day the typical driver will keep their amperage draw around 60-80 amps. Think of your battery as a big electrolyte bank. It storing hundreds of amps, and also serving as a conditioner to your 12v electrical system. In the even your request more amperage then your alternator can provide your battery steps in. In normal everyday operations this is fine. However, when you add a 1kw system or more into this equation this is when things get dicey.
Your current draw of your amp is dependent on the music being played. The lower the frequency, the higher the current draw. So if you play your music loud, and love your bass you will use up that 20amp reserve from your alaternator, and will continually dip into your battery for those extra electrons. This is perfectly fine for a battery that is designed to take this -but most people forget about the key component to the cars 12v electrical system; the alternator. Every alternator has a regular that is either external or internal. This regulator has diodes that control the flow of electrons and the voltage in your cars electrical system. The stock alternator is not designed to run your car - and recharge a battery that is constantly being drained of electrons. This puts unnecessary heat and stress on the alternator, and if great enough, will eventually lead to premature failing of the unit.
In if you do use the Yellow-top for its deep cycle capabilities Optima has a [URL=http://www.optimabatteries.com/_media/documents/specs/D35_082104.pdfspecific charging regimen[/URL] that must be followed to ensure your battery stays at its peak performance for a long time. It is very important to charge your battery with a stand-alone charger. I have seen yellow-top last well over 6-7 years when following these instructions.
In the end if you do run an aftermarket amp/sub and run less then 1kw of power you should be fine with any battery - provided you do proper maintenance on the battery. (clean the terminals, upgrade the big 3, make sure the floating voltage is within range.) If you are running over 1.5kw and stuff a yellow-top in the car with the stock alternator you might seriously consider spending $3-400 on an HO alternator. Simply put, stock alternators are not designed for that type of abuse.
Personally, even though I know I don't hold onto my cars very long, I will still take care of my car and go the extra mile to ensure I'm not sacrificing any components for the future. This includes having the alternator upgraded, as well all factory grounds under the hood.
03-27-2008, 12:08 AM
#18
When I used to sell them, we used to sell the blue tops to the marine customers, the red tops to the regular users and the yellow tops for those who have a lot of acessory use with lights and sound systems. Red tops are the cheapest in price.
Yellow is the way to go. But like JNC said you should also look into a alternator upgrade. Hondas are known for weak alternators.
BTW 34/78?? I remember those batteries fitting Chevy Tahoes with side terminals. If I remember correctly, Accords and the like use a BCI group of 35 or 35R. Optimas come in that size Just to let you know, the only battery compatible with the battery cover under the hood is the damn OEM battery size. I think a group 35 will be a few cms. higher and narrower.
Remember not only are the dimensions of the battery important but also the orientation of the terminals as the cables are purposely designed short to prevent shorts.
Yellow is the way to go. But like JNC said you should also look into a alternator upgrade. Hondas are known for weak alternators.
BTW 34/78?? I remember those batteries fitting Chevy Tahoes with side terminals. If I remember correctly, Accords and the like use a BCI group of 35 or 35R. Optimas come in that size Just to let you know, the only battery compatible with the battery cover under the hood is the damn OEM battery size. I think a group 35 will be a few cms. higher and narrower.
Remember not only are the dimensions of the battery important but also the orientation of the terminals as the cables are purposely designed short to prevent shorts.
03-27-2008, 12:36 AM
#19
rocky- the 34/78 is a dual terminal. I think you aare in correct with the 35 sizing. I just installed a 24F Duralast Gold. yes it was a little taller, but still the battery tie down fit, even though it took a little finagling and the top cover just BARELY fit.
I dont knot TOO much about batteries, but what I have learned in my years (yes it may not be too many as though I am only 24) you just gotta try and see if it fits, if not then get it changed out for one thats a little smaller
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I dont knot TOO much about batteries, but what I have learned in my years (yes it may not be too many as though I am only 24) you just gotta try and see if it fits, if not then get it changed out for one thats a little smaller
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03-27-2008, 02:02 AM
#20
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Originally Posted by jnc2000
Most of you are failing to realize one importing thing about the yellow-top. While yes it is designed to be a "deep cycle" battery, our cars alternators is not designed to charge it.
Let me illustrate this a little better.
An alternator is designed with a maximum amp rating of lets say 110 amps. Your car is designed to draw 90amps at full tilt. This leaves us a 20amp reserve. This is also taking into consideration auto climate control (AC) defrosters - factory amp (30-40 Max draw) and all other accessories. On an average day the typical driver will keep their amperage draw around 60-80 amps. Think of your battery as a big electrolyte bank. It storing hundreds of amps, and also serving as a conditioner to your 12v electrical system. In the even your request more amperage then your alternator can provide your battery steps in. In normal everyday operations this is fine. However, when you add a 1kw system or more into this equation this is when things get dicey.
Your current draw of your amp is dependent on the music being played. The lower the frequency, the higher the current draw. So if you play your music loud, and love your bass you will use up that 20amp reserve from your alaternator, and will continually dip into your battery for those extra electrons. This is perfectly fine for a battery that is designed to take this -but most people forget about the key component to the cars 12v electrical system; the alternator. Every alternator has a regular that is either external or internal. This regulator has diodes that control the flow of electrons and the voltage in your cars electrical system. The stock alternator is not designed to run your car - and recharge a battery that is constantly being drained of electrons. This puts unnecessary heat and stress on the alternator, and if great enough, will eventually lead to premature failing of the unit.
In if you do use the Yellow-top for its deep cycle capabilities Optima has a [URL=http://www.optimabatteries.com/_media/documents/specs/D35_082104.pdfspecific charging regimen[/URL] that must be followed to ensure your battery stays at its peak performance for a long time. It is very important to charge your battery with a stand-alone charger. I have seen yellow-top last well over 6-7 years when following these instructions.
In the end if you do run an aftermarket amp/sub and run less then 1kw of power you should be fine with any battery - provided you do proper maintenance on the battery. (clean the terminals, upgrade the big 3, make sure the floating voltage is within range.) If you are running over 1.5kw and stuff a yellow-top in the car with the stock alternator you might seriously consider spending $3-400 on an HO alternator. Simply put, stock alternators are not designed for that type of abuse.
Personally, even though I know I don't hold onto my cars very long, I will still take care of my car and go the extra mile to ensure I'm not sacrificing any components for the future. This includes having the alternator upgraded, as well all factory grounds under the hood.
Let me illustrate this a little better.
An alternator is designed with a maximum amp rating of lets say 110 amps. Your car is designed to draw 90amps at full tilt. This leaves us a 20amp reserve. This is also taking into consideration auto climate control (AC) defrosters - factory amp (30-40 Max draw) and all other accessories. On an average day the typical driver will keep their amperage draw around 60-80 amps. Think of your battery as a big electrolyte bank. It storing hundreds of amps, and also serving as a conditioner to your 12v electrical system. In the even your request more amperage then your alternator can provide your battery steps in. In normal everyday operations this is fine. However, when you add a 1kw system or more into this equation this is when things get dicey.
Your current draw of your amp is dependent on the music being played. The lower the frequency, the higher the current draw. So if you play your music loud, and love your bass you will use up that 20amp reserve from your alaternator, and will continually dip into your battery for those extra electrons. This is perfectly fine for a battery that is designed to take this -but most people forget about the key component to the cars 12v electrical system; the alternator. Every alternator has a regular that is either external or internal. This regulator has diodes that control the flow of electrons and the voltage in your cars electrical system. The stock alternator is not designed to run your car - and recharge a battery that is constantly being drained of electrons. This puts unnecessary heat and stress on the alternator, and if great enough, will eventually lead to premature failing of the unit.
In if you do use the Yellow-top for its deep cycle capabilities Optima has a [URL=http://www.optimabatteries.com/_media/documents/specs/D35_082104.pdfspecific charging regimen[/URL] that must be followed to ensure your battery stays at its peak performance for a long time. It is very important to charge your battery with a stand-alone charger. I have seen yellow-top last well over 6-7 years when following these instructions.
In the end if you do run an aftermarket amp/sub and run less then 1kw of power you should be fine with any battery - provided you do proper maintenance on the battery. (clean the terminals, upgrade the big 3, make sure the floating voltage is within range.) If you are running over 1.5kw and stuff a yellow-top in the car with the stock alternator you might seriously consider spending $3-400 on an HO alternator. Simply put, stock alternators are not designed for that type of abuse.
Personally, even though I know I don't hold onto my cars very long, I will still take care of my car and go the extra mile to ensure I'm not sacrificing any components for the future. This includes having the alternator upgraded, as well all factory grounds under the hood.
Edit: everyone should upgrade their big 3 though
03-27-2008, 08:15 AM
#21
Yellow Top all the day, it's the best deep cycle battery you can get for the buck. I always ran them, and I never had a bad experience with them, always crank up beautifully, and I go camping a lot, leaving my lights on for a long time, the car always cranks like new.
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