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Old Dec 15, 2003 | 03:28 PM
  #1  
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From: North Canton
oil

i wanna get my oil changed and just wanted to know what was the best oil company
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Old Dec 15, 2003 | 05:32 PM
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Mobil 1 0W-20 Synthetic
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Old Dec 15, 2003 | 05:37 PM
  #3  
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Originally posted by RJC RSX
Mobil 1 0W-20 Synthetic
We need 5w-20? Mobil doesn't have, right?
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Old Dec 15, 2003 | 05:38 PM
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right, but their M1 0W-20 is formulated for Honda 5W-20 engines and meets all of their fill requirements. You'll also see increased mileage and easier winter starting.
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Old Dec 15, 2003 | 05:47 PM
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Originally posted by RJC RSX
right, but their M1 0W-20 is formulated for Honda 5W-20 engines and meets all of their fill requirements. You'll also see increased mileage and easier winter starting.
I see. Thanx.

Do you know how to reset your minder?
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Old Dec 15, 2003 | 07:52 PM
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Ask your dealer about when you should start using synthetic oil. Most say go several thousand miles on regular oil so the engine can be broken in. Using synthetic oil too soon and she won't break in properly.
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Old Dec 15, 2003 | 07:55 PM
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Not true, although it is a good idea to let the factory oil work for at least 3,750 miles as it contains break in agents.
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Old Dec 15, 2003 | 08:00 PM
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Question

I had my oil changed (Mobil 1 mentioned above) today at 2,400 miles.

I was down 3/4 of a quart. Anything to be concerned about?

My last Acura never burned oil, although I always changed @ 3,000 mile intervals (with normal dino oil).
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Old Dec 15, 2003 | 08:10 PM
  #9  
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i wouldn't worry about it yet
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Old Dec 15, 2003 | 08:22 PM
  #10  
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Oil change...

I heard the same thing. The special agent inside the first ever engine oil is gonna make your engine tune up right and make it break-in smoothly.

I'd follow the minder to do whatever it says... But I can change oil brand to whatever I like...
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Old Dec 16, 2003 | 08:28 AM
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REDLINE 5W-20
Mobile1 oil filter
M1-105
Spend the money it pays for itself later!
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Old Dec 16, 2003 | 08:43 AM
  #12  
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Your MID showed 10% or 0% oil life at 2400 miles ?? wow that's some extreme driving. I'm at 4,000 and only at 50%.
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Old Dec 16, 2003 | 09:14 AM
  #13  
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From: Hmmmm......
Originally posted by Bear2Day
REDLINE 5W-20
Mobile1 oil filter
M1-105
Spend the money it pays for itself later!
Bear2Day, what is M1-105? I have heard of the others, but not this.

Thanks!
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Old Dec 16, 2003 | 10:31 AM
  #14  
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Originally posted by Sherlock
Your MID showed 10% or 0% oil life at 2400 miles ?? wow that's some extreme driving. I'm at 4,000 and only at 50%.
I guess Sparky had new oil change anyway without the minder's infomation. And, reset it.
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Old Dec 16, 2003 | 10:39 AM
  #15  
A.K.A. Karl Hungus
 
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Have MObil 1 synthetic 0w-20 in my accord, also a vtec. I can attest to the fact that my engine runs much cooler and smoother with this oil, it is noticable feel wise (though people may say its a placebo effect). But it is absolutely making my engine run two ticks cooler on the temp gauge.

An aside-- I listened to the oil change people and put in 5w-30 synthetic prior to the Mobil 1. The engine ran 3 ticks hotter, but seemed ok. Was not quite as resposive. Therefore, stick with Mobil 1. This is the only case where I"ll admit to following the advice of BMW, Mercedes/AMG, Corvette, and viper owners.
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Old Dec 16, 2003 | 11:23 AM
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M1-105 is a oversized oil filter that fits TLs. The bigger size allows more filtering and a little more volum of oil, inturn runs cooler and cleaner, Search the forum for oversize filters, Later!
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Old Dec 16, 2003 | 12:51 PM
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rets: ah.. more of those people who know better than Honda engineers on how and when to replace the initial break-in oil.
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Old Dec 16, 2003 | 08:05 PM
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honda is actually moving towards smaller oil filters, it seems
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Old Dec 16, 2003 | 08:37 PM
  #19  
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Originally posted by Sherlock
rets: ah.. more of those people who know better than Honda engineers on how and when to replace the initial break-in oil.
I would bet money that Honda, like most other manufacturers haven't used a "break-in oil" for numerous years. Todays engine manufacturing processes result in much smoother surfaces that do not require elaborate brake in or special oils. Most new car/truck brake in procedures are designed to ensure that clutch, transmission, brakes, and drivetrain are "mated/run-in" appropriately. The engine isn't the primary concern.
In regards to synthetic oil.. Numerous vehicles today come with synthetic from the factory. It really doesn't matter when you switch. The important thing is to pick an oil manufacturer and stick with it.

Obviously just my opinion - but based on 15 years of my adult life working in the automotive arena.

Happy Holidays

Smitty
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Old Dec 16, 2003 | 08:48 PM
  #20  
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Originally posted by KJSmitty
It really doesn't matter when you switch. The important thing is to pick an oil manufacturer and stick with it.

Obviously just my opinion - but based on 15 years of my adult life working in the automotive arena.

Happy Holidays
Smitty,

What brand do you recommend to us based on this report & your experience? Thanx.
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Old Dec 16, 2003 | 08:52 PM
  #21  
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Originally posted by Sherlock
Your MID showed 10% or 0% oil life at 2400 miles ?? wow that's some extreme driving. I'm at 4,000 and only at 50%.
Sherlock-MID actually showed 60%, but the oil was dirty and down 3/4 of a quart. I've always done the first oil change on a NEW car earlier than normal and never had any problems.
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Old Dec 16, 2003 | 08:55 PM
  #22  
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Originally posted by Sparky
Sherlock-MID actually showed 60%, but the oil was dirty and down 3/4 of a quart. I've always done the first oil change on a NEW car earlier than normal and never had any problems.
May I know how you reset your minder? Press & hold or leave it alone? Thanks.
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Old Dec 16, 2003 | 09:12 PM
  #23  
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Originally posted by rets
May I know how you reset your minder? Press & hold or leave it alone? Thanks.
Great question, rets. And thanks for the reminder (I haven't yet done it). Let me check the manual.
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Old Dec 16, 2003 | 10:31 PM
  #24  
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Originally posted by rets
Smitty,

What brand do you recommend to us based on this report & your experience? Thanx.
I've been a Mobile-1 Synthetic fan ever since my fist Corvette in 1994. Before that I was, and still am a Valvoline guy in terms of conventional oil. I ran Valvoline performance 20W-50 in all of my race applications and never had a problem. It really comes down to what you have used and your confidence in the oil. In my opinion most quality/common brand oils are all good, the "additive" packages, ie detergents,wear inhibiter's etc. are/or can be quite different though. This is why many techs/reps will suggest that you stick with one brand. Seals, gaskets, etc get use to the specific oil/additives. Many times I have seen folks switch oil brands in the middle of a vehicles life and end up with seal seepage/leaks. Could be coincidental but many think otherwise.

I currently run Valvoline's Synthetic blend in my Suburban for no other reason than my wife puts tons of miles on it and I'd rather not spend $4.79 a quart for M-1 in a truck that I most likely will not have more than 4 years. My last/current cars: 04 Maxima(short lived lemon), 1999 Civic Si (superb little car), 1998 Maxima, and 1995 Toyota 4 Runner were all filled religiously with M-1. All changed over initially at the 500 mile point. None of the 4 burned any noticeable amount of oil within 4000 mile intervals. Hopefully I will take possession of the TL this weekend (delivery pending), it too will get M-1.

Mobile 1 is pricey but you cant beat it's capabilities in regards to hot, cold, and wear protection - wont break down with excessive heat and flows wonderfully for best overall engine protection in cold environments. As you have seen/read, numerous high end auto manufacturers use it/highly recommend or demand it. It has proven to add a fraction to your mileage also.

I for one still wont take the oil to its capabilities in terms of long change intervals. The oil may hold out but those little filters they use now days wont(my opinion). 4000-4500 is still my limit.
Even though I am no longer in the automotive business I still enjoy changing my own oil in the garage. Thats one reason I can justify the $35 dollar oil change cost ( I also use M-1 filters) vs about $10 with conventional oil and filter. Performing the job myself with M-1 products costs about the same as having someone else perform the task with none synthetic. I commend AutoZone for providing a waste oil depository service!

Once a motor-head always a motor-head :-)

Take care guys

Smitty
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Old Dec 16, 2003 | 10:45 PM
  #25  
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M1 isn't pricey when you take into account the extended drain intervals. I personally use 5K, but oil analysis after oil analysis prove that wear metals remain well within tolerable ranges 8-10K+
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