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New Honda ATF DW-1?!?

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Old 10-14-2011, 09:14 AM
  #81  
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I just commissioned a study from the Meat Scientists at BK to analyze the fluid. ...you know, the guys who determined how to price the single, double and triple stacker and analyze stuff like meat to bacon to cheese ratio. ...you know, these geniuses:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HKEeNsfC3zI

They concluded that the honda fluid, redline D4 & Racing, Mobil 1 and AMSOil all had the same amount of Whopper in them, so they are all equal to use in our cars. All fluids meet Whop 2.6 spec with a Yum Ratio of .87.

I can also commission a university study to show that your mom could really be your dad, and vice-versa.

Hyperbole aside, if you need anything more than the large amount of customer dissatisfaction to know that you have a problem, then you all are involved in some bad science and should be ashamed.

BTW - thanks for passing on my offer where even the most anecdotal evidence that could have been gained, even devoid of true control or documentation, could have shown enough to possibly commission a real study instead of the Frankenstein full-of-excuses effort that you all go through now.
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Old 10-14-2011, 01:05 PM
  #82  
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Originally Posted by I hate cars
You can't even acknowledge there's an issue with these transmissions.
The higher than desirable MTBF is limited to one design. It has been dealt with in a number of ways.

Why don't you acknowledge DW-1 as a viable option to Z-1, an equivalent or a cocktail mix?

Tell me ... what new additive has been blended into DW-1 that didn't exist in Z-1?

BTW, I will respond to your mechanical questions when I get back from vacation in two weeks. Today, is my last day of "playing well with others".
Old 10-14-2011, 01:15 PM
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Originally Posted by TampaJim
The higher than desirable MTBF is limited to one design. It has been dealt with in a number of ways.

Why don't you acknowledge DW-1 as a viable option to Z-1, an equivalent or a cocktail mix?

Tell me ... what new additive has been blended into DW-1 that didn't exist in Z-1?

BTW, I will respond to your mechanical questions when I get back from vacation in two weeks. Today, is my last day of "playing well with others".
That's convenient. Yes, school us in 2 weeks instead of telling what this mystery additive is now.

Your design problems have not been dealt with, at least not successfully. The lube problems, yes. The excessive clutch wear, no. Maybe the 3 shaft trans addresses some of these problems, time will tell.

Why don't you enlighten us since you're the "insider" instead of playing games. What I do know is why the other fluids work so much better. DW-1 hasn't been out long enough to make a decision. I've never condemned it other than based on Honda's long abysmal track record with the 5ats I wouldn't expect too much. I also know just like other manufacturers you're going with a lighter fluid to satisfy fuel economy standards so as far as we the consumer know, it's just a lighter fluid with a slightly better base oil until someone says otherwise. You guys have done this to yourselves, don't take it out on the consumers.

Then there's the question of why you're changing the fluid if there were no problems with Z1 and it's not just for fuel economy.
Old 10-14-2011, 03:24 PM
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Originally Posted by I hate cars
That's convenient. Yes, school us in 2 weeks instead of telling what this mystery additive is now.

Your design problems have not been dealt with, at least not successfully. The lube problems, yes. The excessive clutch wear, no. Maybe the 3 shaft trans addresses some of these problems, time will tell.

Why don't you enlighten us since you're the "insider" instead of playing games. What I do know is why the other fluids work so much better. DW-1 hasn't been out long enough to make a decision. I've never condemned it other than based on Honda's long abysmal track record with the 5ats I wouldn't expect too much. I also know just like other manufacturers you're going with a lighter fluid to satisfy fuel economy standards so as far as we the consumer know, it's just a lighter fluid with a slightly better base oil until someone says otherwise. You guys have done this to yourselves, don't take it out on the consumers.

Then there's the question of why you're changing the fluid if there were no problems with Z1 and it's not just for fuel economy.
I've been following this thread from the get - go. Your slowly working yourself up. I suggest that you tone it down.
Old 10-14-2011, 04:07 PM
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As a 2 month owner of my 08 TL 5AT, I've been reading some of the AT threads here with interest.

Any comments on the new “RL derived” 07-08 auto transmission? (http://www.hondanews.com/channels/28...7-1b004c34bf60) Is it really more reliable? Seems like it may be from searching this site. Do you guys recommend more frequent fluid replacement and the non-Honda fluid for it as well?

Thanks in advance (and my apologies if this should be a separate thread).
Old 10-14-2011, 04:34 PM
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Originally Posted by ggesq
I've been following this thread from the get - go. Your slowly working yourself up. I suggest that you tone it down.
How do you figure? I haven't gotten pissed once. I haven't thrown any personal insults. Show me where I have violated any of the forum rules. I spend maybe 2-3 minutes in between work when I feel like taking a quick break to make a quick post. I'm certified at 89 wpm and I don't proof-read or go over anything I write. That's not to brag but to give an idea of how little time I spend posting and getting "worked up". I put very little thought and effort into anything associated with ATF anymore. Worked up hardly describes how I'm feeling. Amused would better a better word.

Here, we have a guy that may or may not be who he says he is and if he is who he says (which I hope is true) I have about 5 years worth of questions for him. Regardless, there's something seriously wrong with some of his statements. My guess is he's a salesman or in marketing acting as a tribologist. Maybe I'm wrong but so far I see no reason to believe otherwise. He called me out on my experience and now I called him out. Did he get the same warning?

Maybe you should realize that certain conversational qualities are lost in the written word and maybe, just maybe I'm not sitting here huffing and puffing over my keyboard waiting to insult someone. Everything I say is scrutinized by the mods.

I know you have a bias against me, it's been evident from the beginning. You let the new members do as they please and run the board into the ground while the knowledgeable members that contribute something get the shaft. Maybe it's all about advertisers and the number of members, maybe that's the bottom line, I have no idea. What I do know is I'm trying to help here and I get a warning. Sooner or later all of the contributing members are going to be gone and you're going to be left the same top 5 questions that get asked and answered daily with nothing but bad information.

If you want me gone, say the word and you'll never hear from me again.
Old 10-14-2011, 04:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Davcs
As a 2 month owner of my 08 TL 5AT, I've been reading some of the AT threads here with interest.

Any comments on the new “RL derived” 07-08 auto transmission? (http://www.hondanews.com/channels/28...7-1b004c34bf60) Is it really more reliable? Seems like it may be from searching this site. Do you guys recommend more frequent fluid replacement and the non-Honda fluid for it as well?

Thanks in advance (and my apologies if this should be a separate thread).
So far it seems like a move in the right direction. When the 3g came out in '04 it looked like the new transmission with the better case was going to be solid. Then around '08 when they started getting up there in mileage they started failing. So right now it's hard to say but I'm optimistic.

The fluid change interval is really based on the type of fluid rather than the transmission. If you're running Z1, yes, change it more often. DW-1 is anyone's guess and a synthetic you could follow Acura's schedule and be fine.
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Old 10-24-2011, 05:44 PM
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MY 2006 TL has 103,000 miles. Can I DO a 3x3 trans refill with the new ATF DW1 even though it still has the factory ATF Z1 in it? I have done the 3x3 refill with the ATF Z1 every 10,000 miles. thanks to all.........
Old 10-24-2011, 06:15 PM
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Originally Posted by doggydog
MY 2006 TL has 103,000 miles. Can I DO a 3x3 trans refill with the new ATF DW1 even though it still has the factory ATF Z1 in it? I have done the 3x3 refill with the ATF Z1 every 10,000 miles. thanks to all.........
Yes.
Old 10-25-2011, 12:22 AM
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My take is that honda finally came up with a reformulated fluid and is now trying to do some unofficial damage control. They cant come right on out and say the old fluid was bad as that would lead to potential massive lawsuits from all those (ever) impacted by bad tranny's. They can however try to mitigate people from experimenting with fluids that havent been fully tested and could potentially lead to other damage down the road.
Old 10-25-2011, 06:37 PM
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Jhumbo, thank you sir. I do not plan on removing all the ATF Z1, just going to remove the drain plug and replace the three quartz of Z1 with the new DW1, hope it makes sense. Again thank you jhumbo.
And to all is ATF Z1 actually discontinued?
Old 10-25-2011, 07:52 PM
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Z-1 is totally discontinued. DW-1 is the factory fill for 2011 and newer models AND should be used in the transmissions of all previous model years where Z-1 was the factory fill.
Old 10-25-2011, 08:13 PM
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Originally Posted by leedogg
My take is that honda finally came up with a reformulated fluid and is now trying to do some unofficial damage control. They cant come right on out and say the old fluid was bad as that would lead to potential massive lawsuits from all those (ever) impacted by bad tranny's. They can however try to mitigate people from experimenting with fluids that havent been fully tested and could potentially lead to other damage down the road.
I think that's a very reasonable theory.
Old 12-20-2011, 11:17 PM
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I have to say, I have learned a lot from the spirited debate and it is very interesting. The back and forth has kept me reading, and, thus, learning. I'm 51 and have owned Hondas and Acuras since I was 22. I do most of my own maintenance and I am still learning, thanks to discussions like this. One thing that I am not that clear on is whether you all consider changing the switches to be routine 2 yr maintenance on all TL models, cause I now own a 2000 tl, a 2010 tl SHawd, 2001 Odyssey EX, and a 2002 RL. The Odyssey had a tranny at 98880 (just made the warranty). I have switched to the Redline type F in the 2010 tl, probably will go to Redline in the rest of my vehicles when my case of Z-1 is gone. I've increased the frequency of my fluid changes because of you guys. Keep up the talking, guys. A lot of us "lurkers" are getting a great education because of your work.
Old 12-20-2011, 11:55 PM
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just read the thread....

people who support DW1, be my guest....you did support Z1 and couple years down the line when Honda comes out with FU1, i will hear how DW1 was crap and the new FU1 is so awesome !!!

I am running redline and cudnt be happier....either way, I do hope the DW1 is an awesome fluid since tons of tranny's depend on it
Old 12-21-2011, 12:18 AM
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SAKozicki,

I see that you are using Type F ATF. Please be sure to read this thread linked below

The Optimal Percentage of Racing ATF (click here)
Old 12-21-2011, 12:26 AM
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Originally Posted by SAKozicki
I have to say, I have learned a lot from the spirited debate and it is very interesting. The back and forth has kept me reading, and, thus, learning. I'm 51 and have owned Hondas and Acuras since I was 22. I do most of my own maintenance and I am still learning, thanks to discussions like this. One thing that I am not that clear on is whether you all consider changing the switches to be routine 2 yr maintenance on all TL models, cause I now own a 2000 tl, a 2010 tl SHawd, 2001 Odyssey EX, and a 2002 RL. The Odyssey had a tranny at 98880 (just made the warranty). I have switched to the Redline type F in the 2010 tl, probably will go to Redline in the rest of my vehicles when my case of Z-1 is gone. I've increased the frequency of my fluid changes because of you guys. Keep up the talking, guys. A lot of us "lurkers" are getting a great education because of your work.
I consider the switches to be a normal 2yr maintenence based on many peoples' reported shudder. It seems like that's the typical range, on the early side of where shudder starts. Mileage didn't seem to matter much.

The switches use a diaphragm that hardens over time and throws the "calibration" out of adjustment causing them to trigger at a higher pressure. It's been almost 2 years since I did mine and I'm just starting to see signs of the trans giving a slight hint of a bump shift. Not bad at all, better than stock, probably due to the type F fluid but there has been a slight change.

In reality, 2 years is on the conservative side but it beats the alternative.

Also, read up on the design flaw which will make you want to avoid an automatic 4-2 downshift. It would seem avoiding this shift has the potential to extend the life of the 3rd gear clutch pack. Apparently when going from 4-2, the 3rd gear clutches are energized at partial pressure causing them to engage while the 2nd gear clutches are fully engaged. It results in 3rd gear slipping and putting wear on the clutches. This shift should be avoided at all costs by either manually downshifting or not flooring it when in 4th gear. A 5-3 or 5-2 downshift is fine.
Old 12-21-2011, 02:08 AM
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Originally Posted by swoosh
just read the thread....

people who support DW1, be my guest....you did support Z1 and couple years down the line when Honda comes out with FU1, i will hear how DW1 was crap and the new FU1 is so awesome !!!

I am running redline and cudnt be happier....either way, I do hope the DW1 is an awesome fluid since tons of tranny's depend on it
Millions of dollars of warranty work is dependent on the new fluid. As with all of Honda's/Acura's fixes, etc I should hope that the previous problems were thoroughly analyzed and researched and the engineers came up with an optimal solution based off their own engine tests. I dont know why people just assume that the new fluid must suck just because the old fluid sucked...I would love to see actual comparison testing or something though.
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Old 12-21-2011, 12:23 PM
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^^^ so you mean to say the old fluid (Z1) was not tested ? it was not researched ?

Now with Acura launching the new transmission in a year or 2, this fluid will not address those transmission and then again failure....then after 4 years of tranny failing they will thoroughly test and research come up with another fluid which will be a better fluid, but might now save the newer tranny's.....catch m drift ? or was i successful at confusing you LOL ?
Old 12-21-2011, 12:51 PM
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I'm not going to say the new fluid is crap because I have no idea if it's good or not. I know it basically meets the new lower viscosity requirements, more of a mpg thing than anything. As for the rest of it such as FM and other additives, who knows.

Now if we look at Honda's history, I would still be worried about using a fluid from them. At any point in time with the tens of thousands of transmission failure over 10 years, they could have formulated a different fluid or even rebadged an existing DexIII fluid.

Part of the problem here is there is more than one design flaw going on with this transimssion. Having less FM will address most but the 4-2 downshift and resulting 3rd gear flare can't be cured with a different fluid and can possibly be made worse with a different fluid. I hate to even thing this but maybe the Z1 has a ton of FM because of this flaw. Maybe Honda knows about it and use a super slippery fluid to take care of it.
Old 12-21-2011, 03:21 PM
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Originally Posted by I hate cars
Part of the problem here is there is more than one design flaw going on with this transimssion. Having less FM will address most but the 4-2 downshift and resulting 3rd gear flare can't be cured with a different fluid and can possibly be made worse with a different fluid. I hate to even thing this but maybe the Z1 has a ton of FM because of this flaw. Maybe Honda knows about it and use a super slippery fluid to take care of it.
I wonder what the Optimal amount of FM would be to balance the dualing goals of not slipping too much but allowing some slippage.
Old 12-21-2011, 03:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Inaccurate
I wonder what the Optimal amount of FM would be to balance the dualing goals of not slipping too much but allowing some slippage.
I have no idea what you're talking about.

I think there are a couple solutions. Run the optimal amount and forget about it or run pure Type F and stay away from an automatic 4-2 downshift.
Old 12-21-2011, 03:56 PM
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^^^ so i have a question about the 4-2 downshift....

2 scenarios:
1> imagine your cruising at 35mph 4th gear (in SS mode) and you let the computer downshift automatically....you slow down and when your at 19mph the computer downshifts to 3rd and your rapidly slowing down down to 5mph and the computer shifts to 2nd....WILL this hurt when running Type F all the way ?

2> imagine your cruising at 35mph in 4th gear (SS mode) and you wanna gas her up so you shift down to 3rd and to 2nd and jump on the gas.....

which scenario are we talking about when we say a 4-2 downshift....
Old 12-21-2011, 04:01 PM
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Originally Posted by swoosh
^^^ so you mean to say the old fluid (Z1) was not tested ? it was not researched ?

Now with Acura launching the new transmission in a year or 2, this fluid will not address those transmission and then again failure....then after 4 years of tranny failing they will thoroughly test and research come up with another fluid which will be a better fluid, but might now save the newer tranny's.....catch m drift ? or was i successful at confusing you LOL ?
As with any design over time, new flaws are discovered and then corrected for, and the flaw may not be what we think it is. Didnt they add an ATF cooler to the type S? perhaps they thought it was a heating problem. It doesnt matter, they came up with a new ATF. This ATF probably factored in all the issues they were aware of, whether it's adjusting the FM level, using the right additives, or other things we have no idea about.

Originally Posted by Inaccurate
I wonder what the Optimal amount of FM would be to balance the dualing goals of not slipping too much but allowing some slippage.
I would love to know how much FM is in DW1 actually, how funny would that be if it's at that 60:40 ratio
Old 12-21-2011, 04:03 PM
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Originally Posted by swoosh
which scenario are we talking about when we say a 4-2 downshift....
At a steady cruise between 40-52 MPH, you will be in 4th gear. If you was to WOT while at a steady cruise between 40-52 MPH, the trans most likely will drop down to 2nd gear.
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Old 12-21-2011, 04:07 PM
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Originally Posted by swoosh
^^^ so i have a question about the 4-2 downshift....

2 scenarios:
1> imagine your cruising at 35mph 4th gear (in SS mode) and you let the computer downshift automatically....you slow down and when your at 19mph the computer downshifts to 3rd and your rapidly slowing down down to 5mph and the computer shifts to 2nd....WILL this hurt when running Type F all the way ?

2> imagine your cruising at 35mph in 4th gear (SS mode) and you wanna gas her up so you shift down to 3rd and to 2nd and jump on the gas.....

which scenario are we talking about when we say a 4-2 downshift....
Only a straight 4-2 downshift where it skips over 3rd gear. About the only way you will get a 4-2 downshift is from full throttle. 4-3-2 is fine when all done separately. 3rd gear is briefly applied with low line pressure after 2nd gear has fully applied. 2nd gear is going to win in this case and not slip so 3rd gear slips. Add Type F to this scenario and make 3rd grab harder and you get more wear. This is the only case where Z1 would be better since it will allow 3rd to slip easier. The best thing is to avoid this particular downshift.
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Old 12-21-2011, 04:09 PM
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Originally Posted by leedogg
I would love to know how much FM is in DW1 actually, how funny would that be if it's at that 60:40 ratio
I can tell you already that this is no where near the case. If DW1 had vastly reduced FM than Z1, people would be complaining of lunging during upshifts and downshifts, popping sounds, sudden jerks, clank sounds, rough shifts, rough gear engagement, and other beastly conduct. :devilgrin
Old 12-21-2011, 04:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Inaccurate
At a steady cruise between 40-52 MPH, you will be in 4th gear. If you was to WOT while at a steady cruise between 40-52 MPH, the trans most likely will drop down to 2nd gear.
Thanks Inaccurate....This is in Auto mode....in SS mode i am always in 5th past the 42 mph mark...or am in 2nd

Originally Posted by I hate cars
Only a straight 4-2 downshift where it skips over 3rd gear. About the only way you will get a 4-2 downshift is from full throttle. 4-3-2 is fine when all done separately. 3rd gear is briefly applied with low line pressure after 2nd gear has fully applied. 2nd gear is going to win in this case and not slip so 3rd gear slips. Add Type F to this scenario and make 3rd grab harder and you get more wear. This is the only case where Z1 would be better since it will allow 3rd to slip easier. The best thing is to avoid this particular downshift.
Thanks IHC....

Both you guys are made for each other....when I put both your post together, it makes so much more sense to me....if it was under my control I would make both your guys MEGA MEGA ADMINS !!! and whoever argues with you perma ban them (healthy discussion is ok )
Old 12-21-2011, 04:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Inaccurate
I can tell you already that this is no where near the case. If DW1 had vastly reduced FM than Z1, people would be complaining of lunging during upshifts and downshifts, popping sounds, sudden jerks, clank sounds, rough shifts, rough gear engagement, and other beastly conduct. :devilgrin
That happens even @ 60%?
Old 12-21-2011, 11:23 PM
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Originally Posted by leedogg
[Complaints] happen even @ 60%?
Yes sir. TL owners are very sensitive and intolerant of the slightest beastly behavior from their luxury car. Whereas for me, the more beastly, the more I like it.
Old 12-21-2011, 11:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Inaccurate
Yes sir. TL owners are very sensitive and intolerant of the slightest beastly behavior from their luxury car. Whereas for me, the more beastly, the more I like it.
Agree, I'd rather have firm, positive shifts that clutch pack eating imperceptible shifts.
Old 01-10-2012, 05:52 PM
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interesting info. I think i'll be switching to dw-1
Old 01-10-2012, 08:04 PM
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This was an extremely enjoyable read.

I have an 07 TL with 60K. I have done 2x3 with dw-1 (about 700 miles between). Really have not noticed any difference with shift quality. Have experienced a mettallic buzzing sound at around 2000rpm since my first drain and fill. However, I am not blaming the fluid change, nor can I rule it out. It could be linked or it could be a total coincidence. I have checked all the heat shields and obvious items, but have not found the source yet. Will continue to search, but would be really pissed if the switch form z1 to dw1 was the cause.
Old 01-21-2012, 12:20 PM
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Okay this could be helpful to others and also I need to some from you Inaccurate!


Long story short since March I had fully converted myself to run straight Redline Lightweight FLuid...Yes not a typo it is all Lightweight and did a 3x3 of it......all summer and up until October or so that car drove amazing and the shifting was just ridiculous..........But beware and behold I began getting the dreaded flaring from 2nd to 3rd shift. It go as bad as 400-500rpm increases like trans was slipping!

So I haven't really be on so I completely missed this Thread at the time. With me though I would get flaring only when cruising as whenever I was WOT it still shifted firm and crispy and no issues...Matter fact drove twice to Florida and back to Boston on straight lightweight and in SS mode and didnt have a problem as I was controlling the shift. Now in Drive mode OMG!! car would not know what shift it was in while downshifting and it would jerk/buck into gear and lunge really bad that it would end up going in limp mode and would not allow me to go into SS mode. So I would have to shut vehicle down and start it back up and then go directly to SS mode and I would be fine controlling my shift, besides the cruising flares from 2nd 3rd it was ok for time being......

At first my impression was huh maybe its because of the weather getting colder and I know InACCurate was running same as me but lives in Texas and it don't get cold as up here.....So since I was under warranty still and am familiar with the dealer I went to dealer got some new DW-1 fluid to place back in so I could bring it in and have it documented for warranty purposes in case the trans shit the bed again as some of you may know that awhile ago I got a rebuilt trans put in.....

Performed the complete 3x3 with DW-1 and drove for couple of days and what do you know the trans began shifting great and no more flares or crazy downshifts......So I camer to conclusion that obviously running just lightweight was no good and I had to have some type of mix. this was fine with me as I was experimenting with the fluid in cold weather and if worse case I had warranty and could always reverse the fluid and go that route.....

So brought car in got slight flaring documented and they said it needed a trans flush after I performed one already, at this point I just wanted to car in so it could be documented for tranny issues if I ever really went and I could say the rebuilt trans was no good.

I managed to save the old Redline lightweight fluid and yes the fluid still came on nice and Red with no funny colors....

So now impressions on the DW-1 fluid, I must say it is most def better then Z1 crap from before and it shifts much smoother n crisp!! Not redline fast but def got better!!! I been on the DW-1 fluid for about 2weeks or so and will not be staying with it just for the fact that it still has the soft shift feel as compared to Redline fluid



So here is my question to you INACCUrate as I hate finding percentages in right mix or what not, but question is

Since I have the old Redline Lightweight fluid and dont want it to go to waste could I possibly mix that in with the DW-1 and bring my mix to an optimal range of 50-65% mix?? Is it even safe to use the Lightweight after being in there with the issues that was occuring?


I was thinking of doing 2qts Lightweight of which I saved with 1qt DW-1 which I can get super cheap from dealer. I think for 9qts when I reversed back I paid like $50-60bucks. Or should I just do like 3qts just using the Redline lightweight stuff on the first Drain and fill and then to like a 2qts lightweight 1qt DW-1 on second and then on third began introducing the Redline Type F with DW-1.


Basically I'm trying to prevent from draining the DW-1 out all at once and pay big bucks again for the Redline stuff so I figure at each oil change began with process mentioned. What is your take on that InACC and also what mix % wise will I be at on each drain and fill.


P.S. I know the best route if money and time was not of an issue is get DW-1 all out and just to the procedure from first page, but since I have fresh DW-1 and also the saved lightweight I figured I could get close to where I need to be and not completely waist the lightweight stuff


Thanks in Advance INACCurate


I will post this on your other thread as well so you can give an answer on there instead of here and leave this DW-1 specific...Just wanted to mention here since I currently am on the DW-1 fluid right now
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