blkmz3

The VLED bulbs look way better IMO. I don't like the blue. Do the VLED bulbs need a module?

KB1Spec

iTrader: (4)

I will let you know when those Plasma LED comes out. Once I have in hand I will post pictures and test them out and give feedbacks

SurfingScotty

Just got the JLC CREE DRL kit. It looks pretty straight forward (surprised it doesn't require direct power from the battery) but mine came with two modules (see picture). I paid for a lifetime replacement so is the 2nd module a back up or is the 2nd one supposed to plug into the other side of the factory wire harness?

The components feel really cheap and I can feel/hear things rattling around inside the modules. Let's home they work.



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sockr1

iTrader: (5)

you have to install both modules...the less complicated one goes on the driver side and just plugs into the factory harness and then ground it (make sure it's not a galvanized nut/bolt)

the complicated module goes on the passenger side and the long wire has to connect from the passenger side all the way to the driver side DRL light. let me know if you have questions. i have one issue with my passenger side module and a new kit is currently in the mail, i can update it once it is all done.

KB1Spec

iTrader: (4)

07-08 only comes with the Module. 09-UP 4G comes with Module and relay harness since it needs to bypass the error message on the dash and the computer more complicated on the 4G TL

KB1Spec

iTrader: (4)

Also the stock bulb socket plugs onto each module.

SurfingScotty

Gottcha!

PROBLEM! So my DRL stopped working months ago, figured one of the blubs when bad and I was planning on upgrading to LED's eventually (which I'm now trying to do). The kit didn't work. Bought some stock halogens and put them in to trouble shoot. New bulbs=still no power. What should I try next?

The factory connector is cracked pretty good and it looks like someone tried to reconnect it at one point or another. So...I'm going to go buy a new stock connector and replace. If that doesn't work, what next?

Aretardedorange

iTrader: (2)

How are you guys replacing them? Can someone make a quick DIY?

SurfingScotty

Okay, so I just replaced the 9005 connector and new halogens. No power, DRL still stays on, on the dash. Checked the fuse under the steering wheel labeled DRL, it's not blown. What next?

o4Komodo

iTrader: (2)

Get a voltmeter and check the plug/connection for voltage levels.
If your fuse isn't blown and the lights aren't coming on you might have bad wiring or a bad short.

KB1Spec

iTrader: (4)

Check the plug and wire the ground wire good.

SurfingScotty

looks like a bad relay. WIll replace today.

SurfingScotty

Replaced relay which is next to the fan control, located on passenger side next to radiator.

Last question, where are you guys grounding your hanress?

KB1Spec

iTrader: (4)

ground it on the frame inside the engine bay or find an existing screw that is screwed onto the frame already inside the engine bay

SurfingScotty

FUCK THESE LIGHTS! Cheap, cheap, cheap! Sometimes they work, sometimes they don't! Sometimes they'd even stay on with the key removed! I'll say it again, FUCK'EM! Sending this cheap ass China shit back and going with ugly but reliable halogens! Buyer beware!

KB1Spec

iTrader: (4)

Maybe contact them and try to trouble shoot it.

SurfingScotty

Nah, I appreciate the help and suggestions I have gotten here but the hell with this crap. This is why I like to stick with OME products. I'm sending the garbage back. It felt cheap when I got it. I kept getting wires pulling out of the connectors (and I was being cautious with them), I can only imagine how many times I'd have to pull them apart, fixing them down the road. At least my DRL work so I can pass inspection. Good luck to those who bought them.

KB1Spec

iTrader: (4)

you can PM sockr1...he have the same set up as you. Maybe ask him what you did wrong.

sockr1

iTrader: (5)

hey scotty i installed them about a month ago and they have been working fine, the ground really is super important here. i was using the galvanized screws and they wouldn't work (or light up only a few of the LEDs...I know you have CREE so it might be a different look if the grounding is bad).

once i used one of the good grounds, the lights worked just fine. PM me if you have any specific questions, JLC has good customer service any time I had issues Jack would answer my emails or send me youtube videos to help out.

bad ground


passenger side ground and mount


driver side



comparison using 68 LED SMD

SurfingScotty

I think I had a good ground, I sanded the frame down to the metal. It WAS working, but it actually had power while the key was off...which is obviously not a good thing if you want to start your car later. So I disconnected it and checked the wires just for the hell of it. Touched it to the battery's Neg terminal and they lit up. Reconnected everything and they wouldn't work (yes, I made sure the parking brake was off and I threw it into reverse and 1st, let the clutch out just to make sure. I like the way these lights work and I've built my own HID wire harness so install was super easy. Just don't know why they stayed on w/o the key in, and why they don't work at all now.

sauceja

iTrader: (2)

Bad relay?? putting power in off pos. and not the on position?? you did say you swapped them.

And glad I went rogue and got my own reverse lights and lic plate lights and not with the group buy. Working towards a quad projector setup so hopefully eliminate DRL all-together.

SurfingScotty

I pulled my 1st relay out and cracked the housing in the process. I soldered the resistor in anyway and gave it a shot as nothing looked damaged. That's when the weird blinking began so I bought a new resistor and new relay thinking that something got damaged when I pulled the original one out or maybe my soldering was bad. Installed the newly soldered relay with new resistor and had the same problems. I swapped the switchbacks from passenger side to driver's side. Same problem. Ordered new switchbacks...same problem.

I should note that the switchbacks work perfectly until the running lights have been on for at least a couple minutes. Then they go haywire.

sauceja

iTrader: (2)

Mine blinked fine then acted like type 1's and then went back to a normal type 2.
As far as my switchbacks. It was really weird but they work flawlessly now so not really sure as I only soldered a .12 ohm resistor.

But as far as what you are having I would have to check it out. Sounds pretty gay though. I agree though that a bad ground will cause all sorts of things to act funky and not work correctly.
Even a loose ground let alone a not very good ground.

i do say good luck to you and post anything you find out maybe one of us can help.

DigitalEmpire22

Everyone says you need the resistor kit or a module to run the V-LED bulbs without throwing a DRL code, but.....

I bought the bulbs and the harness when they first came out. I could never get the harness to work properly (it had issues when they first made them), and so I just decided to try it without the harness.

Long story short, I have been running the V-LED bulbs with no harness or module and NO DRL CODE for over a year now, and I love them.

V-LEDs Switchbacks + DRLs looks REALLY nice when the lighting is dim.

KJ TL-S

iTrader: (9)

So everyone has had ask these problems, and all you're doing is plugging the bulbs in directly as if they were the oem bulbs? Very interesting. And they certainly look bright to me, half power or not.

DigitalEmpire22

The guys at V-LEDs told me they are running at half power as well, but they are the same brightness as the switchbacks, and plenty bright for me so I dunno

mn2trance

That's good to know, DigitalEmpire22. I'm leaning more towards the V-LED LED DRLs more than the one from iJDMtoys. Even better that it doesn't require a harness.

sockr1

iTrader: (5)

go with JLClightings.com for the DRL LED kit, they have sold over 50 kits with no codes and full power, you have a much better chance of success than going with other companies that have less than a 50/50 chance of no code/full power (at least from what i've heard from members on AZ)

mn2trance

I'll pass on JLC based off of my previous experience with them.

VicTL06

Just placed an order for the 5k DRLs + harness from V-LEDs. Can't wait! I would have ordered matching switchbacks, too; but they don't have the Type 1 7443 I'm looking for.

DigitalEmpire22

Very nice

I have the 6k on both the switchbacks and DRLs. I believe I am using the V2 switchbacks, any reason you want the Type 1s?
My only gripe with the switchbacks is some of the LEDs are starting to flicker on and off every now and again. (its been about a year and a month since they were installed)

DigitalEmpire22

Here are a few more pics I found in my photo bucket account of the V-LEDs DRLs/Switchbacks at different angles and times of day.

Just for good measure you know

VicTL06

Whoa! Those look sweet! I went with the 5ks because I thought that the 6ks would look too blue. We shall see, though. As for Type 1, I like the white/amber/white/amber flashing, personally. It looks different.

rydjohnson

I know you said you are using the V-LED brand, but are is this what you are using?

http://www.jlclightings.com/1157-752...-p/sku_025.htm

Deerole

Anyone had any experience/issues with the "error eliminator" from ddmtunning? is it the same as the module's from other sites?

Deerole

Also, I believe autolumination has a module/setup for this (http://autolumination.com/equalizers.htm) has any one had/tested these?